
Class 

Book_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



TENNESSEA^ ABROAD 



OR 



LETTERS 



EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA 



1/ 



RANDAL W. MacGAYOCK, A.M., .LL.B. 

A MEMBER OF THE NASH7JLLE BAE 









EEDFIEID 

«• AND 1, 8 NASgAD gTREET> NEWyoRi 

1854 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 
J. S. REDFIELD, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of 

Ne\7-York. 



TYPOGRAPHY OF 

TUBBS, NESMITH & TEALL, 
29 Beekmun st. 






>?3 
MY FATHER 



THESE LETTERS 



%xt %Hitti8Mttl% §*Hattir, 



THE AUTHOR. 



P REFACE. 



The increased facilities for locomotion and the recognised 
brotherhood of nations have brought the advantages of 
travel within the reach of many to whom they were for- 
merly denied. Thousands are every year availing them- 
selves of this pleasantest method of gaining correct ideas 
of the men and manners of the time, and visiting for 
themselves the classic spots which have for so many 
ages inspired the soul of the poet, and guided the pen- 
cil of the painter. In this pilgrimage to the shrines of 
the Beautiful and the haunts of the Romantic, America 
has not been without her representatives. There is 
scarcely a spot in the Old World that gems the page 
of history or lives in the poet's song, where the foot of 
our countryman has not pressed. Some travel from 
curiosity, others to gain knowledge, while not a few, 
like the birdling of Jenny Lind, go, " not knowing 
why." 

In the Spring of 1851, the author found himself in 
one of these categories — precisely which, he leaves it with 
the reader to determine. Of one sin, however, he holds 
himself innocent — the malice prepense of writing a book. 
During an absence of nearly two years, he had ample 
time and opportunity to visit all the more interesting 
portions of the three grand divisions of the Eastern 
hemisphere. The following Letters are his impressions 



VI PREFACE. 

of those scenes, and of the various people that inhabit 
them. They were written originally for the perusal of 
personal friends, and not for the critical eye of the great 
public. The partiality of those friends and their flatter- 
ing reception of them are the responsible party for their 
present appearance before this august censorship, ^hey 
were published some time since in one of the leading 
journals in Tennessee, and subsequently copied into the 
prints of other States. For much of the historical matter 
they contain, the author acknowledges his indebtedness 
to several European travellers who have preceded him in 
his tour of observation ; and if aught of genial feeling 
or poetic fervor breathe through the following pages, he 
owes much of it to the companionship that shed con- 
tinual sunshine over the weariness of travel, and to the 
gentle hands that were gathering flowers by his side for 
this bouquet of A Tennessee Abroad. 

The Authok. 



CONTENTS. 



Letter I.— Introduction— Prospects of visiting Europe— Reasons for going— Preparation 
for the Voyage — Parting with Friends — The Waterloo — Passengers — The Steam Tug — 
New-York Bay — Fight among the Sailors — The midnight cry of Murder — Man overboard 
— Sermon at Sea — Storm near the Banks — Icebergs, etc 11 

Letter II.— Journalizing — Better Prospects ahead — Speaking a ship — Interesting Jury Trial 
at Sea — Amusements — Irish News — Uproar on board — Sea Fowls — White Rat — Cabin 
Passenger lashed to the shrouds by the Sailors — Sunset at Sea — Cape Clear by moon- 
light — Bursting of Champagne Corks — Incidents in the Irish Channel 18 

Letter III. — Arrival at Liverpool — Appearance of the City from the River Mersey — The 
Docks — Public Buildings — Monuments — Railroad Stations — Markets — Hotels — Draught 
Horses — Visit to Birkenhead — Marriage in Church, etc 23 

Letter IV. — Departure from Liverpool — Manchester — Posting to Rousley — Visit to Haddon 
Hall and Chatsworth — Visit to Sherwood Forest — Newstead Abbey, etc 23 

Letter V. — Visit to Birmingham — Its Manufactures, etc. — Visit to Kenilworth and Warwick 
Castles — The Home of Shakspeare 34 

Letter VI. — The University of Oxford — Students — Public Buildings — Libraries — Arundelian 
Marbles — Monument to Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer — Boat- racing — Blenheim, etc.. 38 

Letter VH. — The Great Industrial Exhibition — The National Representation — Our own 
Country — Americans in London — Her Majesty and the Royal Family 41 

Letter VIH. — Visit to Westminster Abbey — The Houses of Parliament — The Members — The 
Thames, Bridges, and Tunnel 47 

Letter IX. — Excursion to Windsor Castle — The Palaces of London — The Royal Mews — Ama- 
teur performances at the Devonshire House — The Royal Italian Opera, etc 52 

Letter X. — Excursion to Epsom — Tower of London — Docks and Vaults, etc 55 

Letter XL — St. Paul's Cathedral — Meeting of the Charity Schools — The Ragged Schools — 
Pauperism — Hospitals — Markets, etc., etc 59 

Letter XII. — Westminster Hall — Public Buildings — Monuments — Parks, Streets, and Gar- 
dens — Dinner and Soiree at the American Minister's — The Duke of Wellington, Lord 
John Russell, etc 65 

Letter XIII. — Departure from London — Railways and Stations — Agriculture in the Southern 
Counties — Scenery on the banks of the Wye — Visit to the Hills of Great Malvern — The 
Cureall Establishment — The appearance of Chester, its Antiquity, etc. S2 

Letter XIV. — Tour through North Wales — Vale of Llangollen — Capel Cerrey — Vale of Llan- 
beris — Snowdon — Slate Mines — Character of the Country and People — Tubular and Sus- 
pension Bridges — Isle of Anglesey — Marquis of Anglesey's Column, etc 76 

Letter XV. — Tour through the South of Ireland — Cork Harbor — Cork — Blarney Castle — Na- 
ture of the Country and Condition of the People — Lakes of Killarney, etc 82 

Letter XVI. — Appearance of the City Poor-Houses — Police — Parks and Monuments — O'Con- 
nell's Vault— Railway to Galway and Line of Steamers to the United States 87 

Letter XVH. — Difference between the Northern and Southern parts of Ireland — Belfast — 
Scenery on the Coast — Giants' Causeway — Death of a young Scotchman — Wreck of an 
American Vessel — Irish Hospitality — Londonderry — The River Foyle, etc 90 

Letter XVIII.— The River Clyde— Dumbarton Castle— Glasgow— Trip to Ayr— Birthplace of 
Burns — Alloway Kirk — Brig of Doon, etc 93 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Letter XIX. — Farming in the South of Scotland — Hotels — Expense of Travel — Highland 
Scenery — Lochs Lomond and Katrine — The Trosachs — Stirling Castle, etc „98 

Letter XX. — General Appearance of Edinburgh — Old Town and New Town — Population 
— Hospitals — Holyrood Palace — The Castle — Public Buildings — Monuments — Excursion 
to Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford — Dryburgh, etc 104 

Letter XXI. — The French Fetes — Dinner — Theatricals and Concerts at the Hotel de Ville 
— Visit to Versailles — The President's Festival at St. Cloud — Reception at the English 
Embassy — Ball at the Hotel de Ville — Grand Review and Sham Fight in the Champ de 
Mars — Dramatic Representation at the Opera, etc 112 

Letter XXII. — Preparations for a Continental Tour — Arrival in Brussels — Excursion to 
the Field of Waterloo — The City of Antwerp — Catholic Antiquities — Fete of the Virgin 
Mary — Character of the Country and condition of the Government 123 

Letter XXIII. — Trip from Antwerp to Rotterdam — The Hague — Paintings — Canals and 
Railroads — Appearance of Amsterdam — Excursions to Haerlem and Brock — Govern- 
ment of Holland, and condition of the Country 128 

Letter XXIV. — Scenery on the Rhine from its Delta to Mayence — Steamboats, Rafts, and 
Bridges on the Rhine — Cologne — The Seven Mountains — Fortifications at Coblentz — 
Frankfort on the Main — The Castle of Heidelberg, etc 135 

Letter XXV. — Fashionable Watering Places in Germany — Detour to Strasburg — Cathedral 
at Freiburg — First Adventure on a Diligence — Customs — Cultivation of Tobacco and 
Indian Corn in Germany — Falls of the Rhine, etc 142 

Letter XXVI. — Government of Switzerland — Character of the People — General aspect of 
the Country — Towns — Lake Lucerne — Mt. Righi — Pedestrian Tour through the Pass of 
the Furka and the Bernese Oberland — Rhone Glacier — Falls and Avalanches — Lake 
Leman and the Castle of Chillon — Geneva, etc 147 

Letter XXVII. — Valley of Chamouni — Ascent to the Mer de Glace — Adventure — View of 
Mont Blanc from the Flegere — Hospice of St. Bernard — Dogs — Monks — Morgue — The 
Simplon Road, etc 157 

Letter XXVIII. — First Town in Italy — Lago Maggiore — Passports — Examination of Lug- 
gage — Milan — Reception of the Emperor — Excursion to Lake Como, etc 161 

Letter XXIX. — Trip to Venice byway of Verona — Entrance in a Gondola — Piazza of St. Mark 
— Canals — Churches — Palaces — Excursion to the Lido — Reception of the Emperor.. 165 

Letter XXX. — Trip from Venice to Florence, through Padua and Bologna — Appearance 
of Florence — Her Picture Galleries, Palaces, and Churches — English Church and Peo- 
ple in Florence — American Residents and Artists — Flower Girls — Environs — The Grand 
Duke and Government of Tuscany 169 

Letter XXXI. — Trip from Florence to Genoa ma Pisa, Leghorn, and the Sea — Appearance 
of Genoa from the Harbor — Fortifications — Palaces — Peculiarities of the City — Excur- 
sion to Villa Pallavicina — Return to Florence . . .". 174 

Letter XXXII. — Journey from Florence to Rome through Perugia and over the Via Fla- 
minia — Etruscan Remains — Lake Thrasimene — Falls of Terni— Citadel and Aqueduct 
at Spoleto — First view of the Dome of St. Peter's Church — The Campagna Romana — 
Ponte Molle— Porta del Popolo— Piazza di Spagna 177 

Letter XXXIII. — Visit to the Capitol — View of the City and Campagna — The Corso and 
public Squares of the Modern City — The Museum — Castle of St. Angelo — St. Peter's 
Church — The Vatican and other Palaces — The Pope, Cardinals, and Government of the 
Papal States 182 

Letter XXXiV. — The Pope in state on the Corso — American Chapel in Rome — The Forum, 
Pantheon, Coliseum, and other ancient remains— Drive on the Appian Way — Excur* 
sions in the neighborhood of Rome 188 

Letter XXXV.— Journey from Rome to Naples— The Pontine Marshes— The Town of Fondi 
— A Night at Capua— Arrival at Naples— The Hotels— Lazzaroni — The Bay and General 
Appearance of Naples 195 

Letter XXXVI.— The Piazzi Royal and its attractions— Strada di Toledo— The Museum — 
The Gardens of the Villa Reale— Grotto— Tomb of Virgil— Peculiarities of the City— 
Campo Santo— Excursions to Baise, Paestum, Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculancum — 
The Neapolitan Government, etc 193 



CONTENTS. IX 

Letter XXXVII. — Departure from Europe — The Pass of Scylla and Charybdis — Mt. iEtna 
— Messina — The Island of Malta — Arrival off Alexandria — Strada Franca — Donkey 
Stand — Construction of the City — The Turkish Quarter — Pasha's Palace — Mud Villages 
— Private Slave Depot — Disorderly Funerals — Lake Mareotis — Pompey's Pillar — Cleo- 
patra's Needle 208 

Letteb XXXVIII. — Departure from Alexandria — Our Boat — Canal of Mahmoudieh — The 
Rosetta Branch of the Nile — Cotton Farms — Villages — First View of the Pyramids — 
The Barrage — Desperate Affray with the Villagers of Embarbeh, and its Results 215 

Letter XXXIX. — The Citadel — Joseph's Well — Palaces — Mosques — Bazaars — Frank Quar- 
ter — Old Cairo — Tombs — Nileometer and Isle of Roda — Festivals and sights — Excur 
sions — The Pasha and his Government, etc 220 

Letter XL. — Journey up the Nile — Grottoes of Beni Hassan — Osioot — Temple of Dendera 
— Thebes, Karnak, and Luxor — Temple and Dancing Girls at Esneh — Temple at Edfou 
— The First Cataract — Island of Phiiae — The Nile above Phiiae, and Incidents connected 
with the Journey 226 

Letter XLI. — Preparations at Cairo for crossing the Desert — Our Caravan — A Sheik of the 
Bedouins — Midnight alarm and loss of a Carpet Bag — Jerreed Tournament — Military 
Honors at Ei Arish — Five hours' separation from the Caravan in a Simoom — Five days 
in the Lazaretto at Gaza — Plain of Sharon — Ashdod — Two days in the Convent at Ramla 
— Journey to and first sight of Jerusalem 237 

Letter XLTL— First Impression of the Holy City— The Walks— Jaffa Gate — Tower of Hip- 
picus— Our Hotel— Walk to Herod's Palace— The Church of Flagellation— The Via 
Dolorosa — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Easter — The Sacred Fire — Folly of the Priests 
— Emotion upon entering the Holy Tomb 253 

Letter XLHI. — Mosques of Omar and El Aksa — Remains of King Solomon's Temple — 
Birth-place of the Virgin — Pool of Bethesda — St. Stephen's Gate — Convents of Jerusa- 
lem — English Chapel — American Residents < 259 

Letter XLIV. — Walkabout Jerusalem — Potter's Field — Mount of Offence — Mount Zion — 
Pool of Siloam — Valley of Jehoshaphat— The Tombs of Zechariah, of Jehoshaphat, and 
of Absalom — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of Virgin Mary — Grottoes on Mount of 
Olives — View of the City — Sepulchres of the Kings — Grotto of Jeremiah, etc.. . 262 

Letter XLV. — Bethany — Road to Jericho — Fountain of Elisha — Plain of Jericho — River 
Jordan — Dead Sea — Convent of St. Saba — Tower of Simeon — Tomb of Rachel — Church 
of the Nativity, etc., etc 267 

Letter XLVI. — Pools of Solomon — Aqueduct — Convent of St. John — Hebron — Sepulchre 
of Patriarchs — Quarantine, etc 273 

Letter XLVH. — Return to Jerusalem — Beer — Village of Leban — Jacob's Well — Valley of 
Shechem — Nablous — Sebaste — Gennin — Mount Tor or Tabor — Sea of Galilee — Tiberias 
— Saphet, Nazareth, etc 274 

Letter XL VIII.— Mount Carmel— Acre— Ladder of Tyre— Sidon— Residence of Lady Hes- 
ter Stanhope— Beirout — The Druses — Balbec — Damascus 282 

Letter XLIX.— Farewell to the Holy Land— Voyage to Smyrna— Our Steamer and Pas- 
sengers — Island of Cyprus — Coast of Karamania — Islands of Rhodes, Samos, and Scio 
— Bay of Smyrna — The Quarantine 292 

Letter L— Appearance of Smyrna— Mount Pagus— The Six Churches — Caravan Bridge 
— The Cemeteries — Donkey Ride — Encounter with Albanian Banditti — Beauty of the 
Women — American and French Vessels in the Harbor 297 

Letter LI.— Departure from Smyrna— Island of Mitylene— Tenedos— Plains of Troy— The 
Hellespont— The Dardanelles— Gallipoli— The Golden Horn— Pera — View of Constan- 
tinople from the Tower of Pera SOI 

Letter LH — The Baths— The Bazaars— Dogs— Fires— Slave Market— Palace of the Grand 
Vizier— Fire Tower of Stamboul— Burnt Column— Cisterns of Constantine— Caiques- 
Bridges— College of the Dancing Dervishes— Barracks — Sultan's Palace 304 

Letter LHL— Grand Muster of all Nations— The Seraglio— Column of Theodosius— The 
Armory— Mosques of St. Sophia, Achmedje, and Suleimange— The Hippodrome— Tomb 
of Sultan Mahmoud— The Seven Towers— Cemetery of the Janissaries— Visit to the 
Sweet Waters — Excursion on the Bosphorus 810 



X CONTENTS, 

Letter LIV. — Departure from Constantinople— Island of Syra— The Piraeus— Modern 
Athens — Ancient Ruins and Localities — Excursions — King Otho and the Queen — The 
Greek Parliament — Visit to the Daughters of Marco Bozzaris — Maid of Athens — Mr. 
Hill and his School — Elizabeth of Crete — The Count's Daughter 815 

Letter LV. — Adieu to Athens — Tomb of Themistocles — Islands of Egina, Hydra, and Spez- 
zia — Gulf of Nauplia — Fortress of Palamede — Itch Kali — The Lion Monument — Ruins 
of Tirynthus — Ruins of Argos — Ruins of Mycenae — Ruins of Nemea — Corinth — Gulf of 
Lepanto 326 

Letter LYI. — Voyage from Corinth to Trieste — Patras — The Ionian Islands — Austrian 
Steamers — City of Trieste — Separation from Friends, etc 330 

Letter LVII. — Departure from Trieste — Cave of Adelsberg — Gratz — Erzherzog Karl — Vien- 
na Tailor — Austrian Money — Police Office — Volks-garten 333 

Letter LVIIL— Vienna within the walls— The Glacis— Cathedral of St. Stephen— Capuchins 
— Imperial Vault — Augustines — Canova's Monument — Imperial Palace — Antiquities — 
Minerals — Museum of Natural History — Imperial Library — Jewel Office — Imperial Re- 
galia — The Emperor's Stables — Opera, etc., etc 337 

Letter LIX. — The Suburbs of Vienna — Belvidere Palace — Ambras Museum — Litchtenstein 
Picture Gallery — Picture Gallery of Prince Eszterhazy — Palace of Luxemburg — Vil- 
lage of Baden — Schonbrunn — Beer Halls — The Prater — A Russian Bear, etc 342 

Letter LX. — Departure from Vienna — Scenery on the Danube — Linz — Peculiarities of Ba- 
varia—Situation of Munich — Royal Palace— Hofgarten — Churches — Pinacothek — Glyp- 
tothek — Royal Library — Public Monuments — Bronze Foundry — Painted Glass Manu- 
factory—Theatre — The King and his People 346 

Letter LXI. — Railroads of Germany — Leipzig — Arrival at Dresden — Picture Gallery— The 
Green Vault — The Armory — Elbe Bridge — Promenades — Environs, etc. 352 

Letter LXII. — Appearance of Berlin— Unter den Linden — Monuments — Royal Palace — 
Palace of the Prince of Prussia — Museum — Picture Gallery — Egyptian Museum — The- 
atre — Brandenburg Gate — Count Raczynski Gallery — Thiergarten — Bellevue — Consul- 
tation with an eminent Surgeon — Pecuniary Difficulties, etc 359 

Letter LXIH. — Excursion to Potsdam— Tomb of Frederic the Great — Palace of the Prince 
of Prussia — Bellevue — Russian Colony — Sans Souci — New Palace — Statue of the late 
Queen of Prussia, etc 362 

Letter LXIV. — Voyage from Stettin to St. Petersburg — Our Vessel and Passengers — The 
Gulf of Finland — Cronstadt — First View of St. Petersburg— The Neva — New Bridge 
— English Quay— Police Regulations — Our Hotel — Dinner at the U. S. Ambassador's.364 

Letter LXV. — Passport System — The Newski Perspective — Churches — Peter's Log Cabin 
— Corps des Mines — Admiralty— Palaces — Monuments — Excursion to Peterhoff— The 
Neva— Pickpockets 367 

Letter LXVI. — Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow — The Railroad — Russian Serfs — 
English Hotel — Sunday in Moscow — The Kremlin — Monasteries— The Riding School 
— Bazaars — Tea Houses — Amusing Incident, etc 374 

Letter LXVII. — Voyage from St. Petersburg to Stockholm — Revel — Helsingfors— Abo — Ar- 
rival in Stockholm — The Park — King's Palace — Churches — Haga — Drottningholm — 
Jenny Lind's Parents— The Swedes, etc 382 

Letter LXVIII. — Trollhattan Canal— Polhem and Gullo Falls— Go ttenburg— Voyage to 
Copenhagen — The Round Tower — Magdalene or Lady Church — King's Palace — Monu- 
ments — Thorwalsden's Museum — Private Museum — Frederic Park — The Danes 387 

Letter LXIX. — Voyage from Copenhagen to Kiel — Hamburg — The Alster Basin — The Bourse 
—Trip to Hanover— The Theatre— Royal Palace— Waterloo Column, etc 391 

Letter LXX.— Trip from Hanover to Aix-la-Chapelle— The Baths — The Redoute— The 
Dom Kirche — Hotel de Ville— Summary of my Tour— Conclusion 493 



A TENNESSEAN ABROAD, 



LETTER ONE. 

Ship "Waterloo, Capt. Harvey, ) 
Banks of Newfoundland. ) 
Introduction— Prospects of visiting Europe— Reasons for going— Preparation for the Voy- 
age—Parting with Friends— The Waterloo— Passengers— The Steam-tug— New-York Bay 
— Fight among the Sailors — The midnight cry of Murder — Man overboard — Sermon at 
Sea — Storm near the Banks — Icebergs, etc. 

" I'm on the sea ; I'm on the sea, 
I am where I have longed to be, 
With the blue above and the blue below, 
And joy wherever I go." 

For some years past I have cherished the hope that it would be 
in my power to realize the fondest dreams of a life passed in literary 
pursuits and professional duties, and make a tour in foreign lands, 
whose history, language, people, institutions and customs, I have 
heard and read so much about, but which no one has written of or 
represented so as to enable me to appreciate what I now anticipate. 
Some persons are content if they have a well-written history or book 
of travels, over which they can go into ecstasies without the trouble 
of locomotion, and at the same time enjoy the cosy fireside, and 
perfume of the well-filled meerschaum ; but with me it only creates 
a desire to see with my own eyes, and learn for myself, things I 
have failed to realize in books. Through some freak of fortune, or 
misfortune, as time may determine, I found my inclination to leave 
home become so strong, I was willing to yield to the solicitations of 
those who desired my company, leave my business, part with my 
family and friends, and all who are near and dear to me, and be a 
rover for eighteen months or more in foreign climes. As the day 
fixed for our departure drew near, my anxiety became intense. I was 
ready even before the time to bid adieu to my native land, with a 
heart full of anticipated pleasure. 



12 A TEN3TESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

On Saturday, at noon, I found myself on board the splendid ship 
Waterloo, belonging to the Star Line, bound for Liverpool, and com- 
manded by Captain Harvey. Here I found assembled those who 
were to constitute my fellow-passengers across old ocean's wave, 
numbering some thirty-five persons, great aud small, for the cabin, 
and forty-five for the steerage. Here, also, I found assembled a few 
chosen friends whom I had known in college-life, and who had come 
to the dock to take leave, and express their good wishes for my safe 
return and happiness. After a short time allowed by our accommo- 
dating captain for leave-taking, we were dragged by the tug Achilles 
out into the middle of East River, amid the shouts and waving of 
those on shore. We stood in the stream for about half an hour, 
waiting for two of our party, who had gone out to purchase books 
for perusal during the voyage, thinking they had ample time. They 
soon returned, and found, much to their surprise, that we had left 
the dock. Their only chance was to get some one to row them out 
in a yawl, which they soon found without difficulty. As they were 
pulling out to us, we laughed at them most heartily, which dispelled 
for a time the gloom which seemed to pervade all on deck. All 
being aboard, the tug comes up and hitches on, and off we move for 
our destination. While wending our way slowly out to Sandy Hook, 
we had a fine opportunity of indulging our romantic ideas and en- 
joying the beautiful scenery on New- York Bay, which is said by 
some to surpass any in the world, not excepting even the Bay of 
Naples, rendered immortal by the pen of the gifted Byron. The 
great city of New-York, the emporium of the new world, with her 
lofty spires and immense structures, surrounded by a forest of masts, 
indicating her commercial importance ; Brooklyn, her sister city 
just opposite, with her beautiful residences and public edifices ; 
together with Hoboken, Jersey City, Governor's Island, and other 
places, all possessing their attractions, combine to render the pano- 
rama exceedingly beautiful. About dusk the steamer left us outside 
the Hook, and returned to the city, leaving us to make our way 
across old ocean's wave as fast as the wind might carry us. In a 
few moments the hoarse voice of the mate was heard crying " All 
hands ahoy !" but instead of the command being obeyed, it was fol- 
lowed by the cry of " Fight — fight — fight !" when all on deck simul- 
taneously made their way to the forecastle, from whence the cry 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 13 

proceeded. As I expected, the crew were all pretty much fuddled, 
and as usual on starting out they deemed it necessary to take a round 
or so, in order to prove each other's pugilistic attainments. The 
officers immediately interfered, and finding that John Barleycorn was 
the causa belli, ordered him to be placed under lock and key, which 
being done, order was restored, and Jack went kindly to the mast- 
head singing the jolly seaman's song. 

All sails being set, and night having begun, I took one last linger- 
ing look at the highlands of New-Jersey, and repaired to my state- 
room, where I found my trunks snugly stored away, and all the 
little conveniences requisite for a sea voyage. The cabin I found to 
be larger than usual and much better furnished, while the appoint- 
ments of this noble vessel of over one thousand tons were admirable, 
and the attendance without a fault. In crossing the Atlantic, I 
would advise all travellers who prefer real comfort and quietude, and 
have the time, by all means to take a packet-ship in preference to a 
steamer. In the American line will be found every luxury and con- 
venience one can desire. The commanders generally are the very 
best of seamen, and conduct themselves at table, and wherever duty 
calls them, as gentlemen and men of intelligence ; the crews excel- 
lent, being selected from the first class seamen, who always know 
their duty, and are faithful in its execution. Aside from these con- 
siderations, I would prefer going eastward in a packet ship on the 
score of safety and dryness of the deck : you are more liable to acci- 
dent in a steamer from various causes ; while their decks are always 
damp, being forced through the waves against a head wind, throw- 
ing the spray from stem to stern, making it exceedingly unpleasant ; 
as it is always desirable to be as much on deck as possible, there 
being only two remedies for sea-sickness, according to the advice of 
our captain, viz., breathing the pure air, and the free use of brandy. 
The latter remedy I have found very acceptable to some, judging 
from their repeating propensities. Not being affected by sea-sick- 
ness, I of course could feel but little sympathy for my friends who 
seemed to be suffering agonies, yet I could fully appreciate their un- 
pleasant situation, and did all in my power to alleviate their suffer- 
ings and cheer up their drooping spirits. I was somewhat surprised 
they should have been affected so early in the action, particularly as 
we had little or no wind and consequently a calm sea. It is really 



14 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR 

distressing to witness the prostration of all your fellow-passengers for 
the first four or five days, after which they become habituated to the 
motion of the vessel, and are ready to laugh at the many little say- 
ings and doings while sick. To give you some idea of the feeling of 
a sea-sick person, I will merely relate one or two incidents that occur- 
red among our party during their agonizing moments. Nearly all 
said they wished they were on terra firma, and one of the married 
members of the party remarked to me with great earnestness, that 
he was a pretty old fool for leaving his wife and children, to cross 
the ocean, knowing he would be deathly sick ; and if the Lord 
spared him, he was certain he never would leave home again. 
Another gentleman of the party came out one morning on deck to 
breathe the fresh air after being immured for several days in his 
berth, and in his peculiar way said he would just like to shout one 
long God d — n for relief sake. He had hardly uttered the words 
when his eyes rested on two Reverend gentlemen, one of whom told 
him he had as well take that back ; whereupon onr friend com- 
menced making all sorts of apologies, saying really he did not know 
he was near, or he would have been more guarded ; but in truth he 
really felt just that way. 

On the third day after our departure we found it disagreeably 
cold, and as the stoves were left in New- York for a summer voyage, 
we were compelled either to take exercise on deck, or keep ourselves 
warm by rolling up into our bunk, which I found anything but 
agreeable. Fortunately for our comfort, we reached the Gulf stream 
on the fourth day, where a very pleasant temperature greeted our 
trembling limbs, being some eight or ten degrees warmer than" any 
other part of the ocean. There is something very curious about 
this stream, of which so much has been said and written. Many 
theories have been advanced, and with some degree of plausibility, 
relative to the causes of this remarkable phenomenon of nature. 
Some say it is occasioned by an under-current flowing from the 
Pacific (which is considerably higher than the Gulf of Mexico) 
through the Isthmus of Darien ; while others have contended it is 
produced by the trade winds from the coast of Africa, meeting the 
waters of the mighty Mississippi, and forcing it northward by way 
of the Island of Cuba along our coasts to the banks of Newfound- 
land, where its force is broken, and its waters disseminated and lost 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 15 

in immensity. The stream is forty or fifty miles wide, running at 
the rate of four miles per hour, with a temperature ten degrees 
warmer than other parts of the ocean. 

We were driven by adverse winds considerably out of our way, 
having gone to the southward about six points, which will make our 
voyage longer than was anticipated. Nothing occurred from the 
time we set out until the sixth day, except the spouting of whales, 
floating of sea-weed, and pieces of some wreck, which the captain 
said might have been floating for six months, but which appeared to 
me to be of recent happening. 

On the afternoon of the sixth day, while we were all on deck, 
passing our time variously as suited our inclinations, some playing 
at backgammon, some reading, others conversing, we were alarmed 
by a sudden squall which came upon us while we were under full 
sail, without a moment's warning. Before the captain could give 
orders for reefing the sails, our mainsail was rent in twain, the fly 
ing-jib and jib-boom carried off, and the ship thrown on her beam- 
ends, much to the alarm and consternation of the passengers. I was 
not at all disconcerted, because I had seen vessels in much greater 
straits, and knew there was no real danger, but was considerably 
amused at some of the nassengers, who were probably never at sea 
before. One of the clergy said he trusted in the saving power of 
the Almighty; another gentleman said he was prepared for the event, 

so let her rip and be d d ; while a certain old gentleman bid 

good-bye to his wife and daughter — the ladies almost gave up the 
ghost — and the servants rolled into their bunks, and covered up 
their heads negro-like, until the wind subsided. 

On the night of the seventh day, being Saturday, we -assembled 
around the table in the gentlemen's cabin to drink the usual toast 
of M wives and sweethearts," which all seemed to enter into with a 
hearty zest. At a late hour we retired, expecting to pass the night 
in undisturbed repose. We were not exactly right in this matter. 
While we were all sleeping away the still watches of the night, with 
nought to disturb us save the occasional tread of the officer on deck, 
we were aroused by the awful cry of " Murder — murder — murder !" 
accompanied by a terrible scuffling on deck, as if some one was 
being stabbed. The cry of murder is at all times alarming, but when 
one is awakened from a sweet sleep by such a cry, it becomes still 



16 A TENNE8SEAN ABROAD; OR, 

more terrible. Thinking it might be a mutiny, (although mutinies 
are out of vogue now,) I hurried on deck, and found, much to my 
relief, it was nothing more than the cry of a steerage passenger, who 
was laboring under a fit of mania a potu. He had crawled without 
observation during the night under one of the benches ; the noise I 
mistook for wrestling, was his endeavor to disengage himself from 
the legs of the bench — imagining them to be sailors attempting to 
cast him overboard. The officers, with their usual dispatch, had him 
immediately conducted to his quarters, and all was quiet again. 

The next morning the passengers all assembled in the cabin, to 
hear service by the Right Rev. Bishop Otey, of Tennessee, assisted 
by Parson McDougal of England. The morning service being over, 
the sermon having begun, we were alarmed by the cry of " Man over- 
board IV All rose instantly from their seats, and hurried on deck, to 
learn the truth of the matter. Sure enough, a man was overboard ; 
and who should it be, but the mania a potu man, who alarmed us 
so much during the previous night. Fortunately for him, the vessel 
was standing almost still, there being little or no wind. When he 
rose, he swam like a duck, and caught the rope thrown out by the 
sailors, by which they drew him up into the ship. All the steerage 
passengers assembled around the poor fellow, who looked perfectly 
frantic, and began questioning him as to the whys and wherefores. 
He said he knew the captain wished him to jump overboard, for the 
sailors had been after him for several days. He then commenced 
relating several fish-stories, all of which evinced that he was not 
sane, yet sufficiently rational to jump into the sea when the ship was 
standing still with empty sails. In a few moments the excitement 
subsided, and the Bishop proceeded with his sermon ; which was 
listened to with great attention and interest. After the conclusion 
of the sermon, I accepted the invitation of the physician belonging 
to the ship, and accompanied him to the steerage, wishing to see 
every thing, and let nothing escape. Here I found men, women and 
children, from almost every nation and clime, all having different 
tales to tell ; some were going back to their native land after a wife, 
children, sister, or brother, while others were dissatisfied with 
America, and were returning to old England, where all those who 
are dissatisfied with our institutions usually come from. All seemed 
to be getting along remarkably well ; I heard no complaint, except 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 17 

from one old woman, who told the doctor she hoped he would give 
the crazy man a potion to make him sleep ; he annoyed her very 
much during the night by pulling her nose — all of which he sol- 
emly denied. 

For the last few days the winds have been adverse, and we have 
made little or no progress, being out of our course, towards the 
banks of Newfoundland, which we wished to avoid on account of 
the ice, etc. The eighth day was decidedly the most eventful we 
have had since our departure. At noon the skies began to lower, 
and the winds to rage, indicating a severe storm. Then appeared 
about a thousand porpoises and one or two whales, indicating, as the 
sailors say, a high wind. About three o'clock it seemed as if the 
spirits of the mighty sea were awakened from their dreams — 

" He that has sailed upon the dark blue sea 
Has viewed at times, I ween, a full fair sight." 

The wind blew a perfect hurricane, and the short high sea was per- 
fectly furious, lashing about in all directions with the madness of a 
maelstrom, and with a violence that apparently nothing could resist. 
Heavy squalls and thick weather added to the fearful tempest that 
was raging. The officers and crew of our noble vessel, which rode 
the waves like a thing of life, were all on the alert to a man, 
wrapped in their oil-skin dresses and water-proof overcoats, ready to 
meet the worst. All sails were immediately reefed, we stood full 
three hours with our head to the wind, buffeting the waves which 
rolled mountain high, as something superior to human work ; our 
ship stood it well, and came out with flying colors. It was truly a 
magnificent scene ; one that I would not have missed for any consider- 
ation. Could we have divested ourselves of its reality, it might be 
likened to a fancy picture in which some strange and curious dance 
was being represented between the sea and the ship. But our danger 
was too great for such thoughts. The fact of our being near the 
banks of Newfoundland, and the region of floating icebergs, was too 
strongly impressed upon our minds, to allow any visionary thoughts 
to possess us at the time. The captain, after the winds had subsided, 
and the waves had assuaged, remarked it was the severest storm he 
had witnessed for three years past. I feared I would not have the op- 
portunity of seeing a storm at sea, but my wishes were realized, and 



18 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

I can truly say I never beheld a scene so fearful, and at the same 
time so sublime. 

Next morning we found ourselves on the banks of Newfoundland, 
and in the region of floating icebergs, which we have been trying 
to avoid for three days past. During the day we saw three icebergs, 
the nearest being about three miles off. It is truly a grand sight to 
see these immense fields of ice drifting on the bosom of the mighty 
deep, while the rays of the burning sun reflect a dazzling light on 
the waters round about. From these crystal plains rise, sometimes 
lated, sometimes in groups, elevations of thirty feet or more in 
height. In the spring, these fields begin to drift along in solemn 
procession to the southward, in which direction they hold their 
steady course, whether in calm or in spite of adverse winds. In my 
next you shall have a description of our voyage to our journey's 
end. 



LETTER TWO. 

Irish Channel, below Liverpool. 
Journalizing — Better Prospects ahead — Speaking a ship — Interesting Jury Trial at Sea — 
Amusements — Irish News— Uproar on board — Sea Fowls — White Rat — Cabin Passenger 
lashed to the shrouds by the Sailors — Sunset at Sea — Cape Clear by moonlight — Bursting 
of Champagne Corks — Incidents in the Irish Channel. 

There is no established mode of journalizing at sea, as every per- 
son has his own peculiar way of seeing and noting incidents en route. 
In looking over my little journal, I find many things worthy of com- 
ment, but must omit them in this sheet, in order that I may give 
prominence to the more interesting features of the voyage, and re- 
lieve you from the tedium of perusal. 

In my last, written some fifteen days since, from the Banks of 
Newfoundland, I mentioned our ill luck in meeting unfavorable 
winds, which seemed to impede our progress in spite of our anxiety 
to proceed and our experience in nautical matters ; but fortunately, 
while we were feeling something as Jonah did when the whale swal- 
lowed him, (rather down in the mouth,) a spanking breeze sprung 
up and carried us at a fine rate for several days. But this good luck 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 19 

was not of long duration ; we had scarcely got through congratu- 
lating the captain, when adverse winds began to blow, and contin- 
ued for several days, driving us a great way out of our course, to- 
wards the north of Ireland. 

The day after we left the Banks we spoke the Belona, a ship bound 
for New- York from Liverpool. No day has elapsed since our depart- 
ure without being in sight of a sail ; this was the first vessel that 
came near enough to pass the usual compliments — such as the hoist- 
ing of flags and interchange of longitude. This ship came near 
enough to hear the shouts of the emigrants which crowded her decks. 
As an American citizen, my heart exulted with pride and admiration 
as I heard the shouts that filled the air when we hoisted from the 
spanker jib the stars and stripes of our free and happy country, to 
whose shores they were going like the Israelites of old to the prom- 
ised land. 

During a long voyage passengers are compelled to resort to all 
sorts of ways to kill time and make the monotony tolerable. Amuse- 
ments of every description are brought into repute, and each one's 
ingenuity is taxed to diversify and render them interesting. After 
we had exhausted our patience in playing the various games, such 
as whist, chess, backgammon, shuffleboard, etc., etc., we resorted to 
trials by jury and publication of newspapers, both of which furnished 
an infinite deal of amusement. Cases of assault and battery, libel, 
and breach of promise were tried regularly. One of our legal friends 
officiated as judge, Mr. L. as clerk, an Englishman as sheriff, and 
your humble servant, together with a gentleman from Philadelphia, 
were the counsellors. The cases were all decided by the court against 
the defendants ; and the verdicts were champagne for the crowd at 
Cape Clear. Our judge was exceedingly punctilious about main- 
taining the dignity of the court, and having the causes conducted in 
order. He fined several gentlemen two or three bottles of cham- 
pagne for contempt of court. Among the sufferers was your old 
friend, who was fined two bottles for taking a seat beside his honor 
on the bench. 

Nothing has created so much amusement during our passage as 
the newspapers, which are read out every day at table. We are in- 
debted to one of our party who is known at home as the knight of 
the gray goose quill, for the publication of the first paper, called the 



20 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OK 5 

Waterloo Budget, which created great merriment. Some of the gentle- 
men, thinking rivalry the road to success, started another paper called 
the Stormy -Petrel, which also created considerable merriment, and 
caused a deal of laughter and comment. These papers were kept up 
until good taste suggested their discontinuance. To give you an ink- 
ling of the contents of these papers, I will make a few extracts, se- 
lecting those that were received with most applause : 

EXTRACTS 

From the Waterloo Budget and the Stormy Petrel, published on board the Waterloo, 

at Sea. 

Waterloo Budget. — Alarming Incident — As the Waterloo was on her 
late passage from New- York to Liverpool, the officer on watch and all in the 
vicinity were greatly startled and alarmed towards what Burns termed the 
" sma' hours," by a grating or jarring sound which appeared as if it pro- 
ceeded from the ship's bottom. Some thought it might be caused by that 
natural phenomenon, a sub-marine earthquake. Others thought the ship's 
keel had dragged over some rocks. But " great effects proceed from little 
causes ;" it finally turned out to be no mOre nor less than the voices of sun- 
dry gentlemen, in full chorus over that classical ditty " Uncle Ned." The 
participants at last accounts were doing as well as could be expected. 



Lusas NaturcB. — Cases are given by travellers of districts of country in 
Arkansas and Texas, where the ague is so violent as to cause chickens to 
shake all their feathers off. We have recently had brought under our notice 
something quite as strange, viz., a rat which on a voyage to Europe became 
perfectly white, the result, doubtless, of paleness and disgust caused by sea- 
sickness. The poor fellow was on his way to the World's Fail*. 



Squalls. — The next debate by that enlightened body, the Zatitudinarians, 
will be on the question, " What are the causes of squalls, as well when the 
mercury is up in the barometer, as when it is down ?" Bachelors are expect- 
ed to participate in the discussion. 



Ladies' Fashions. — Joseys and sacks for promenading, with a very pretty 
style of cottage bonnets, something on the coal scuttle order. Hair, a la 
Grecque, when a reef occasionally gets shaken out of it. 



Prices Current — Whiskey Punch — The stiffest article, quick sale and the 
demand steady. Porter — Pretty good demand for the best. Lemonade — 
Flat. Whiskers and Moustaches — Black in good demand, much sought af- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 21 

ter and but little in market ; red and foxy, a perfect drug, the market being 
largely overstocked ; gray scarce, and no call for them. 



Would be exchanged. — A pair of " sea-legs" for anything that could toddle 
about on the solid earth — shape or length immaterial, as the advertiser is 
desperate. 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 

First Week. Second Week. Third Week. 

( Calm, 
"Wind. < Calmer, 
( Calmest. 



( Squall, 
Wind. •] Squallier, 
( Squalliest. 



( Contrary, 
Wind. < Contrarier, 
f Contrariest. 



Wanted, by an individual, (not a doctor,) any amount of patience ; appli- 
cation to be made at the weather side of the quarter deck, the first rainy 
day, when the wind is from the north-east. 



Stormy Petrel. — Singular Incident. — Our peaceful community was very 
much startled from its propriety on Sunday last by a great outcry, and the 
rumor that something as yet unclassified in natural history had been discov- 
ered in the rigging of the vessel. All hands rushed upon deck, and beheld 
an object at some elevation in the rigging. Some supposed it to be a bird, 
while others thought it was a novel species of turtle that had crept out of 
the ocean. The bird theory was principally advocated by a gentleman from 
Brummagem, who unhesitatingly declared his conviction that it was only a 
lark ; some of the more timid passengers were considerably alarmed, but 
were re-assured by the chivalrous Johnson, who informed them " it was all 
right." On further investigation, it appeared that the object in question was 
a gentleman from Tennessee, who having ventured up the rigging, in violation 
of well established maritime law, was seized by the sailors and lashed fast, 
as an example to all land lubbers. He was not allowed to come down from 
his bad elevation, until he had engaged to come down with a modicum of 
grog for his captors. 

The sea— the sea — I'm on the sea, 

I'm where I don't want to be ; 

With the sky above and the sea below, 

And nought but salt water wherever we go. 

Oh ! the ship doth pitch and the ship doth toss, 

And bumps you about till you're sore and cross ; 

It upsets your soup and it spills your tap, 

And it pours out your grub in your neighbor's lap : 

I wouldn't be here, if I could once more see land, 

I wouldn't — I wouldn't— if I would may I be d — d ! 



22 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

Many other pieces were read which would bear insertion, but as 
postage is heavy, and patience rare, I will not insert them. 

During our passage we were followed by sea fowls of various de- 
scriptions far away from land. It is really surprising to watch their 
movements. The gull, which is the largest and most common, will 
follow a vessel for days without even resting on the waters, except 
occasionally when they dart down to catch a fish, or a crumb from 
the ship. 

A few evenings since, one of our passengers was disturbed in his 
berth by a strange visitor in the shape of a rat, but being of a dif- 
ferent hue from rats generally, it was doubted for a time whether the 
gentleman was correct in his supposition about its being a white 
rat. The following day the mysterious visitor again appeared, and 
was seen by several — all of which the mate confirmed, stating that 
he saw it come on board in New-York, from a China ship. 

I have often heard persons expatiate on the beauties of a sun-set 
at sea, and expected to find it far more beautiful than any thing we 
landsmen are blessed with ; but I was sadly disappointed, as we were 
not favored with a clear evening sky during the passage, and in the 
absence of the many hues created on land by reflection, it failed to 
present to my mind the beauties I anticipated. 

On the evening of the twenty-second day, while we were all out 
on the quarter-deck, hoping to be soon in sight of land, we were 
aroused by the voice of a female in the steerage crying, "A duck, a 
duck, a fish-duck !" which immediately put us on the look-out. After 
gazing and straining our eyes in fruitless attempts for some time, one 
of the sailors descried Mizen Head from the mast-head, which veri- 
fied the woman's duck story. 

In a short time after this joyous news, the captain pointed out to 
us the highlands of Cape Clear, which appeared to me in the 
distance like a small cloud on the horizon ; but as we drew nearer 
and nearer, the land became more distinct, and was visible to the 
naked eye. After we were fully satisfied that Cape Clear was really 
in view, it was suggested by one of the party that we might as 
well call out that champagne imposed by the Honorable Court. 
All acquiesced, and the wine circulated freely, making us feel happy 
and disposed to witticism and merriment. 

The following day we were blessed with another calm, and stood 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 23 

out in the Channel without moving the least for eight hours ; about 
dark a breeze sprung up, and we made a fine run as far up as Great 
Owen's Head, where we will lie until morning. The scenery along 
the shores of Wales looks very beautiful in the distance, although 
very rugged. I was strongly reminded, while looking at the many 
little farms inclosed by hedges and ditches, of some of the closely 
cultivated portions of New-England. Every spot of ground seems 
to be in a high state of cultivation. 

You will be surprised to learn that the hills along these shores are 
clad with snow, which appears a little singular so late in the season. 

The steam tug is now waiting to carry us into Liverpool, which I 
am anxious to reach, having been out twenty-six days. 



LETTER THREE. 

Waterloo Hotel, Liverpool, Eng. 
Arrival at Liverpool — Appearance of the City from the River Mersey — The Docks — Public 
Buildings — Monuments — Railroad Stations — Markets — Hotels — Draught Horses — Visit to 
Birkenhead — Marriage in Church, &c. 

Osr the morning of the 8th, the good ship Waterloo cast anchor 
in the Mersey, three miles below the city, near the Lock Fort, after 
a voyage of twenty-six days. Here, the captain informed us, we had 
to remain until he could go after a custom-house officer to examine 
our trunks, all of which appeared absurd to those over-anxious to 
reach the land. Several of us, determined not to be cheated out of 
a good breakfast, accepted the invitation of the captain and went 
ashore, leaving our luggage on the ship. After procuring lodgings 
for the party, and partaking of an excellent breakfast, we returned 
in the steam-tug to the Waterloo, where we found all on deck, anx- 
iously awaiting our return. In a few minutes the baggage and pas- 
sengers were transferred from the ship to the tug, and off we started, 
giving three hearty cheers for the Waterloo and her crew, which 
was responded to by the officers and sailors with heartfelt enthusiasm. 
We are now in the hands of the custom-house officer, whose duty 
requires a thorough examination of all baggage entering the port in 



24 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OE 5 

order to detect smuggling and to receive duties on articles of pro- 
hibition. English reprints and cigars are immediately taken, if dis- 
covered, and also daguerreotypes and line engravings. Several of 
our party paid duty on these articles. As a general thing their ex- 
aminations are nominal, particularly if the person presents a genteel 
appearance, for they merely ran their hands hurriedly through the 
contents of the trunks, frequently leaving things undiscovered which 
would otherwise bring revenue to the government. Many avail 
themselves of their good looks, and pass through the custom-house 
without detection. 

The approach to Liverpool does not come up to my expectations, 
although the docks give it an appearance altogether different from 
what we are accustomed to, rendering it very attractive to the lovers 
of architectural skill. These docks of world-wide reputation, stand- 
ing for miles along the river, are the pride of the city and Great 
Britain, and justly so, for they show to mankind what mighty works 
of commercial convenience labor and skill can produce. The cost 
of these docks was immense ; more, probably, than any other nation 
is able to bestow upon one city. 

Liverpool is comparatively a new place, but its immense tonnage, 
which now almost equals that of London, and its growing import- 
ance in a commercial point of view, render it, next to the metropolis, 
the greatest city in the kingdom. Those who now look at the Tyre 
of Great Britain, view its spacious docks where flags of all nations 
float gaily in the breeze, traverse its wide streets and observe its 
noble public buildings, handsome shops and commodious dwelling- 
houses, must find some difficulty in believing it has sprung from an 
insignificant fishing village within the period of little more than a 
century, whose inhabitants in the days of " good Queen Bess" found 
themselves compelled to pray for the remission of a tax, which they 
were unable to pay, styling themselves of "Her Majesty's poor and de- 
cayed town of Liverpool." The greatest and most remarkable changes, 
however, have taken place within the last eighty years. There are 
still living many persons, with memories nervous in age, who with 
feeble voices speak of their native town abounding in fields, orchards, 
and gardens, pleasant places which have gradually faded from sight 
before the magic touch of improvement ; broad streets, squares and 
palaces only now appearing, where wild flowers hung pendulous in 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 25 

the sunbeam, and the loudest noise was that of merry children at 
play, or the carolling of the cuckoo in mid-air. Year by year the 
town has been extending and spreading, until its former features 
have departed, leaving no traces of early recollection and no spot to 
quiet reflection in the mind of the antiquary. 

Liverpool has done much towards beautifying her public buildings, 
which are real ornaments — and at the same time substantial. It 
would be impossible to give in the space of a letter an accurate de- 
scription of the various public buildings, and I will merely touch 
upon the general features of the most attractive. 

The corner-stone of the custom-house, which is a very large and 
substantial building, was laid in 1828, with much ceremony. The 
style of this edifice is Ionic, and designed somewhat in the shape of 
a double cross with four points of great extent. The main front is 
430 feet in length, and surmounted by a cupola and dome 127 feet 
from the ground, the crown of which is supported by a tasteful circle 
of Corinthian columns, between which are placed sixteen perpen- 
dicular windows, admitting a strong flood of light in the spacious 
room below. The windows in the upper story are semicircularly 
arched ; the lower portion of the building is rusticated. The custom- 
house and post-office is a stately building, well adapted for all com- 
mercial and postal purposes. In front of this building there is a 
bronze statue erected by the corporation to the memory of Huskis 
son, through whose powerful mediation the building was commenced. 

The exchange building next claims our attention. Its foundation 
was laid in 1803, and the total cost was £110,888. It is one of the 
largest buildings in the city, occupying three sides of a quadrangle, 
measuring 194 feet by 180, the area being 3,492 feet, and twice the 
size of the Exchange, London. It is built of reddish-colored stone in 
the Doric fashion. 

In the centre of the area of the Exchange is the Nelson Monument, 
in which I was greatly disappointed, having heard and read very ex- 
aggerated accounts of its beauty. It is altogether different in structure 
from any monument in the States, being made of bronze placed on 
a plain stone pedestal. The design is very good, and reflects credi: 
upon Mr. C Wyatt, also upon Westmacott, who modelled it. It i. 
a circular pedestal surmounted with a statue of Nelson holding in 
his left hand four crowns, emblematical of his four victories, and in 



26 A TEKNESSEAN ABROAD J OK, 

his right the flags taken in battle. In the rear is a figure of Bri- 
tannia lamenting his loss, while the hand of a skeleton, emblematical 
of death, reaches from behind the folds of one of the flags and rests 
upon his heart. Around this are four allegorical statues represent- 
ing in different attitudes the appearance of great grief. It has upon 
it this inscription : " England expects every man to do his duty." 
The monument weighs twenty-two tons, and cost £9,000. 

St. George's Hall is just being completed. It is the largest and 
most beautiful edifice in the city. It has a concert room capable of 
accommodating more persons than any other in this kingdom. This 
building is to be used as an assembly room. While we were visit- 
ing this hall we called into a church very near, and were ushered by 
the sexton into the clerk's room, who invited us very kindly to be 
seated. In a minute or so he turned to me and asked if I had my 
license ! License for what, said I ? To be married, he replied. We 
all commenced laughing, and he soon discovered his mistake, and 
made the matter plain by telling us that he was expecting a bridal 
party, and concluded we were the persons wishing to be united in 
the holy bonds of wedlock. In a short time the genuine bridal party 
entered the church, and we witnessed for the first time a marriage 
in old England. 

The Sailors' Home is decidedly the most tasty building in the 
city, and acquires additional importance from the fact that the cor- 
ner-stone was laid by Prince Albert, (/ mean in the eyes of English- 
men.) 

The railroad stations of Liverpool are very costly, being built of 
solid stone and covered with glass. 

The market places of this city are very superior. St. John's mar- 
ket is a building 180 feet long, 100 broad, containing five avenues. 
There I had an opportunity of seeing some of the fine beef and mut- 
ton that I had heard so much about, and I assure you it surpasses 
any thing that I have ever seen in our country. The fish market 
is also very superior ; but the vegetables and fruits were very infe- 
rior. 

There is no place more refreshing in the city limits than St. James' 
Cemetery. It presents a remarkable appearance, being formed in a 
deep dell or quarry, which for many years contributed its stone in 
the erection of various public works. The area contains 44,000 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 27 

square yards of ground used for interments, while the length is 1500 
feet, breadth 270, and depth 60 feet. The western side and north 
end are covered by a thick shrubbery, sloping gradually from the 
top of the cemetery to the bottom ; the eastern wall is occupied by 
105 catacombs, the entrances to which are four feet six inches wide, 
seven feet high, and finished with rustic masonry; they are approached 
by inclined planes. There are one or two chaste tombs in the ceme- 
tery, but most of them are very inferior. I was told while there by 
the sexton that twenty thousand persons had been interred within 
this small place, which seems almost incredible. 

The hotels here are called excellent, but really they are far infe- 
rior to our American hotels in every particular. They are nothing 
more than large coffee-houses with lodging rooms attached. The 
idea of one taking his meals all alone is rather anti-democratic for 
Americans, and more particularly a Westerner. You go into the 
coffee-room and call for what you wish, which is served up in a few 
minutes by females, in large old-fashioned white caps, which makes 
one feel like laughing more than eating. Nothing has attracted my 
attention more than the draft-horses that I see in the streets. Their 
size and capabilities are really wonderful ; as a general thing they 
are about sixteen hands high, and in proportion. They are in excel- 
lent order, and look as sleek as a new hat. Yesterday I counted as 
many as thirty steam-pressed bales of cotton on one wagon, and 
drawn by only two horses, which would be considered a tremendous 
load on our turnpikes for a team of six horses. Being rather curi- 
ous, I stopped the driver and inquired what he fed his horses with ; 
and he told me that steamed beans and corn were mostly used, but 
that every thing was steamed. Yesterday afternoon we accepted 
the invitation of a friend living in Birkenhead, just opposite the city, 
and visited the Park, containing over one thousand acres, and made 
at the expense of the corporation of Birkenhead, which contains 
about thirty thousand inhabitants. It is the largest park in this 
part of England, and certainly possesses many attractions. It is in- 
closed by an iron fence, with massive stone gate- ways, and laid out 
most beautifully iu walks and flower beds. In the centre is an arti- 
ficial stream, filled with swans, over which are thrown aerial bridges. 
Statuary of various kinds are placed in the most prominent parts of 
the Park, all together making it exceedingly beautiful. 

2 



28 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

After viewing the Park satisfactorily, we accompanied our friend 
to his residence, where we passed the evening most delightfully. 



LETTER FOUR. 

Hucknall, near Newstead Abbey, Eng. 
Departure from Liverpool— Manchester — Posting to Rousley — Visit to Haddon Hall and 
Chatsworth — Visit to Sherwood Forest— Newstead Abbey, etc. 

Having remained in Liverpool sufficiently long to see every thing 
that a stranger finds to engage his attention, and to recruit after 
a long voyage, we took the rail to Manchester, passing through a 
tunnel one mile and a half in length, and over a champaign coun- 
try beautifully hedged, and under a fine state of cultivation. Being 
in what is called the express train, which carried us at the rate of 
sixty miles per hour, you can readily imagine our chance of form- 
ing any correct idea of the qualities of the land, products, etc. 

Long before we reached the City of Mills, our attention was at- 
tracted by the thousand and one chimneys reaching almost to the 
clouds, and enveloping the whole country round about with coal- 
smoke, giving the city an old and ding}^ appearance, and rendering 
it next to an impossibility for the ladies to keep their faces clean. 
Here we met several Americans from the Eastern States, who like 
ourselves were anxious to go through and examine the principal 
mills, and compare them with our own. Upon inquiry we were 
told that w r e would find no difficulty in gaining admission ; but our 
experience, I am sorry to say, was quite the contrary, for we were 
refused admission at two or three places — which was quite enough 
for our patience. They stated that they had been so much visited 
during the month, and that there were so many mechanics and 
manufacturers in the country, that they preferred keeping closed 
doors. There are certainly a great number of mills here, and their 
manufactured articles are justly prized by the kingdom ; but really, 
without boasting, I think that our mills can fully compete with 
them in all respects, and in a few years, I hope to see in operation 
manufactures on a much grander scale in our own Tennessee. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 29 

From Manchester, we proceeded by post to a little village called 
Rousley, in the county of Derby, through an exceedingly broken 
and somewhat romantic country. From the Peaks of Derby, we 
had a fine view of nearly the whole county and portions of those 
adjacent. To an American accustomed to the White, Alleghany, 
and Cumberland mountain scenery, it would not be much thought 
of; but here in England they call it a lovely panorama, I was ex- 
ceedingly amused at an old gentleman who asked me if I did not 
consider that a very wild region, which is more thickly populated 
than any portion of Tennessee. You can imagine how one accus- 
tomed to the dark swamps and thick cane-brakes of Arkansas must 
have given vent to his risibles. 

Travelling by post-coaches still remains in use wiiere the locomo- 
tive has not been introduced, and it reminds me very much of our 
stage travelling — with the exception of the style, which we utilita- 
rians would abandon as useless trumpery. The driver is quite as 
consequential, and the freedom of speech is equally as unrestrained 
as you find with us, which is much more agreeable than being con- 
fined in a close car where you can neither see nor hear any thing 
with satisfaction. 

Arrived at the little village of Rousley, we put up at an inn called 
the Peacock, which is about two hundred years old, and has great 
reputation as a place where fishermen and sportsmen congregate 
to carry on their amusements, and indulge in their favorite sports. 
Near this village is the old castle of Haddon Hall, now owned by 
the Duke of Rutland. It is unoccupied, but is kept in good order 
by the Duke as a monument of antiquity. Soon after the conquest 
this property was owned by the Avenells, from whom it came to 
the Vernons. The last male heir of this family, Sir John Vernon, 
was commonly called the King of the Peake, on account of his hos- 
pitality and magnificent mode of living. He died during the seventh 
year of Elizabeth, and Haddon passed by marriage with one of his 
daughters into the possession of the family of the Manners, and was 
their principal seat till the beginning of the last century. In the 
time of the first Duke of Rutland, in the reign of Queen Anne, seven 
score servants were maintained in this ancient seat of English hos- 
pitality. The situation of Haddon is very beautiful. It stands on a 
shelving and rather elevated mass of the first limestone, overlooking 



30 



OK, 



the entire dale and its meandering Wye, backed by an extensive 
wood and surrounded by beautiful trees. At first sight it has more 
the appearance of an old fortress, than what it really is, a hall, 
chiefly in the Elizabethan style, and without any effectual defences. 
The building in its present form is not in the least calculated for 
defence or protection against a besieging force, according to the 
military tactics of any period, though there can be but little doubt 
that this mansion, which was the work of different ages, occupies the 
site of a Norman castle, portions of the lower part of which may be 
traced in the walls of the towers which overlook both the upper and 
lower portals. It is said to be decidedly one of the finest specimens 
of a hall of the olden time in existence. The old tower with narrow 
loop-holes, and gloomy, uncomfortable rooms, is the only part which 
retains that stern character, the peculiar feature of the iron age 
when " every man's hand was against his fellow ;" that age of dark- 
ness and military despotism, which succeeded the destruction of the 
Roman power by the savages of the North. The old part of Haddon 
is said to have been built before the conquest ; and as a quiet coun- 
try seat of the English gentry in the eighteenth century, kept still 
in good repair, with all its ancient honors about it, just as deserted 
by the family one hundred and seventy years ago, and really retain- 
ing all that character, as if they had quitted it yesterday, is a beau- 
tiful specimen of that age. 

There can hardly be conceived a more striking contrast to the 
sombre grandeur of Haddon Hall, than is exhibited by the splendid 
magnificence of the neighboring pile of Chats worth, the country seat 
of the Duke of Devonshire. The former of these buildings, as re- 
marked by an English writer, is "one of the most perfect and most 
curious of the class of castellated houses now remaining, but when 
viewed as a whole, is almost devoid of all real elegance, or comfort- 
able convenience, and fitted only to entertain a horde of licentious 
retainers." In the latter edifice we perceive a unity of design and 
adaptation of parts, not only beautiful when separately considered, 
but also deriving new beauties from their connection with the other 
portions of the structure to which they belong. The various divi- 
sions of the edifice harmonize with each other, and combine with 
the adjacent scenery to constitute a picture of surpassing elegance 
and splendor. We were ushered through the entire building, out- 



31 

grounds and conservatories, and I feel safe in saying that it is the 
most beautiful, comfortable, and elegant structure in all England, 
not excepting even Windsor Castle. To describe the park with its 
three thousand deer, the gardens with their extensive conservatories, 
water-falls, fountains and statuary, the castle with its extensive libra- 
ries, ancient paintings and statuary, would require more space than 
I can allow in this letter. But notwithstanding the great magnifi- 
cence of Chats worth, I must say that the antiquity and associations 
connected with Haddon Hall made it more interesting to me. It 
remains as a model of domestic arrangements of the noble families 
of former times, and as a picturesque object suited to the bold and 
romantic landscape of which it forms a prominent part ; and it is 
■also deserving great attention from artists and amateurs as affording 
examples of elaborate and beautiful workmanship in the carved 
panelling of its wainscotted apartments, and in the elegant tracery 
of some of the ceiling. 

The next places of interest were Sherwood Forest and Newstead 
Abbey, both of which possess attractions and associations dear to 
every Englishman — the former as the place where " bold Robin 
Hood and his merrie men" used to practise their daring exploits, 
and the latter as the home of the gifted Byron. As we passed 
through this legendary neighborhood, surrounded by the haunts of 
Robin Hood and his band of outlaws, so famous in ancient ballad 
and nursery tale, it recalled vividly the romantic faith and impres- 
sions of our boyhood, and caused a thrill of delight to animate a 
heart which is not always glad. My remembrances of " merrie Sher- 
wood" are of the pleasantest kind ; for often during my earlier life 
have I dwelt with wonderment over the pages of some little book 
giving a description of the great deeds once done in this classic re- 
gion. This locality, which was once a mighty forest, now teems 
with mouldering ruins and noble remnants of the grandeur of by- 
gone ages. Among the many interesting spots that give character 
to the neighborhood, Newstead Abbey is the most prominent, and 
particularly interesting to Americans, as they are generally great 
admirers of the poet. As we drew near to the Abbey, a most glo- 
rious scene burst upon the view. On the right hand lay a splendid 
sheet of water, fringed with young woods that bow their whispering 
homage o'er the margin, reflecting all the depth and brightness of 



32 A TENNESSEAK AEKOAD ; OK, 

the tranquil heavens ; aquatic wild birds studded the silvery surface, 
as though they had a " vested interest" in the place, and possessed a 
''protective order" against all molestation. A romantic water-fall, 
and the ruins of a rustic mill, together with the gentle murmuring 
of the foaming falls, added to the richly wooded country around, 
served to complete a picture upon which memory, so long as " she 
holds her zeal," will love to dwell. Turning to the left, the vener- 
able Abbey rises in solemn grandeur, the long and lovely ivy cling- 
ing fondly to the rich tracery of a former age. As we first gazed 
upon these old walls, and remembered that it was here, even among 
the comparative ruins of a building once dedicated to the sacred 
cause of religion by the monks of old, that the great genius of 
Byron was first developed — here that he paced with youthful mel- 
ancholy the halls of his illustrious ancestors, and trod the lonely 
walks of the banished monks — we involuntarily commenced repeat- 
ing those beautiful lines from his own pen, in which he speaks of 
die decay of his much loved home : 

" Newstead ! fast falling, once resplendent dome ; 
Religions shrine ; repentant Henry's pride ; 
Of warriors, monks and Danes, the cloistered tomb, 
Whose pensive shades around thy ruins glide ; 
Hail to thy pile ! more honored in the fall 
Than modern mansions in their pillar'd state : 
Proudly majestic frowns thy vaulted hall, 
Scowling defiance on the blasts of Fate." 

Newstead was founded by Henry the Second, in the year II 70, 
as a priory of Black Canons, an order having for their tutelary pa- 
tron St. Augustine, and practising great austerity of life. It was 
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and there is still to be seen in one of 
the niches of the chapel, in a state of preservation, a sculptured 
Virgin and child. It continued a priory until the time of Henry 
VIIL, who, in his zeal for the temporal welfare of himself, and to the 
consternation of the then religious world, set about the wholesale 
destruction of all the monastic institutions of the country. It was 
afterwards granted by the same royal favor to Sir John Byron, who 
converted it into a residence of more than ordinary splendor. Dur- 
ing the troubles which marked the history of the great rebellion, 
which ended in the martyrdom of the unfortunate King Charles the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 33 

First, the Byrons distinguished themselves as warm adherents of 
royalty, and JSewstead sustained the siege from the parliamenta- 
rians ; thus as Lord Byron says : 

" The Abbey once, a regal fortress now, 
Encircled by insulting rebel powers ; 
War's dread machines thy threatening brow, 
And dart destruction in sulphurous showers." 

On the death of Charles, the Byron estate was placed under se- 
questration. During the civil war, in 1643, Charles the First marked 
his high sense of Sir John Byron's loyalty and devotion by raising 
him to the peerage, and immediately after the restoration Charles 
the Second restored Newstead to its late owner, from whom it de- 
scended to Lord Byron. In the year 1818, Colonel Wildman, the 
present esteemed owner, purchased it from the poet, who was com- 
pelled to dispose of it on account of pecuniary difficulties, for the 
sum of £100,000; and has since, by judicious alterations and im 
provements, proved himself a most worthy owner of a place at once 
the pride of the forest and the admiration of thousands who have 
by his courtesy been permitted to traverse its spacious galleries and 
venerable halls. We had the pleasure of seeing Col. Wildman, 
who was very kind in conducting us through the various apart- 
ments of the Abbey and explaining every thing to us. He was a 
class-mate and early friend of the poet, and in speaking of Lord 
Byron he would almost go into ecstasies. 

From the Abbey we came to this place, which has the honor of 
being the last resting-place of the departed great, his remains hav- 
ing been removed by his sister, Augusta Maria Leigh, from Misso- 
longhi in Western Greece. His remains are deposited^n the Byron 
vault, in a small church and still smaller village. He should have 
been buried where he requested, at Newstead, between his favorite 
dog and faithful servant. But he needs no monument or epitaph to 
perpetuate his memory ; it will live when all monuments shall have 
crumbled away. 



31 



LETTER FIVE. 

Stratford-on-Avon, Eng. 
Visit to Birmingham — Its Manufactures, etc. — Yisit to Kenilworth and Warwick Castle3 — 
The Home of Shakspeare. 

We are now nearly in the centre of England, and in the great 
workshop of the kingdom, where almost every thing that the human 
mind can conceive of is manufactured. From a very early period 
Birmingham has been renowned for its manufactures in steel and 
iron. This trade is now carried on to an extent elsewhere unequal- 
led. The principal branches of it are plate and plated wares, orna- 
mented steel goods, jewelry, japanning, papier mache, cut-glass or- 
naments, steel pens, buckles and buttons, cast-iron articles, guns, 
steam-engines, etc. We found no difficulty in gaining admission, as 
at Manchester, into the principal establishments, They were par- 
ticularly polite in carrying us through and showing the entire pro- 
cess by which they manufacture their various articles. We were 
particularly struck with the manner of making papier "mache arti- 
cles, which are so beautiful, and which appear to us so difficult and 
intricate. The process is very simple when we look at it, and causes 
us to wonder why it has not been more generally used. The first 
thing is to cut out of common brown paper the articles to be made, 
which is pasted together and placed in an oven of a certain temper- 
ature to be dried. It is then taken out and varnished with a very 
thick black coating, the mother-of-pearl being imbedded in the var- 
nish. The article is now complete with the exception of the finish- 
ing polish, ^hichis nothing more than rubbing and varnishing. 

Birmingham is connected with London and various places by 
means of canals, and forms a centre of railway communication with 
every part of the kingdom. There is nothing in Birmingham to 
attract the stranger, aside from the mills. Her public edifices and 
monuments are of a mean description, and deserve no particular 
notice. 

Not far from Birmingham is the famed Castle of Kenilworth, 
around which linger so many historical associations and pleasing 
reminiscences. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 35 

" Shrine of the mighty, can it be 
That this is all that remains of thee ?" 

Among the venerable remains of the once magnificent dwellings 
of princes — alternately the prisons and the "plaisance" of royalty — 
there cannot be one more deserving the notice of the admirers of 
picturesque beauty than this old castle, which, notwithstanding the 
corroding hand of Time, still retains such vestiges of its former ex- 
tent and grandeur as are powerfully calculated to impress the mind 
of the beholder with a vivid idea of the magnificence of the feudal 
ages, and the instability of all things human. As I stood upon the 
bridge erected by the Earl of Leicester for Queen Elizabeth to enter 
the castle, and viewed its ivy-clad battlements and majestic towers, 
which are now fast mouldering to decay, yet still " elegant in their 
ruins and dignified in their disgrace," I was inspired with thrilling 
emotions of the deepest awe and veneration. Imagination involun- 
tarily takes wing, and forcibly brings to remembrance the departed 
glory of all those mighty cities, whose renown in arts and arms filled 
the world with wonder and astonishment, and whose builders de- 
creed that they should be the imperishable monuments of the genius 
of science and of conquest. Who, for instance, can behold the ruins 
now unfolded to our view, without exclaiming, in the sublime and 
energetic language of the inspired writer, "How is the mighty fallen !" 
All who have read Sir Walter Scott are perfectly familiar with the 
strange and romantic history of Kenilworth. The only part of the 
original fortress of this once lordly structure now remaining is the 
keep, generally known as Caesar's Tower, the walls of which are in 
some places ten feet thick. The remains of the additions made by 
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, are termed Lancaster buildings. 
In a part of the ruins termed Leicester buildings are to be seen the 
relics of the great hall, a fine baronial room eighty-eight feet in 
length and forty-five in width. Although the erections of Leicester 
are of the most recent date, they have the most ancient and ruined 
appearance, being built of a brown, crumbling stone, not well adapt- 
ed for durability. " We cannot but add," says Sir Walter Scott, 
" that this lordly palace, where princes feasted and where heroes 
fought, now in the bloody current of storm and siege, and now in 
the games of chivalry, where beauty dealt the prize which valor 
won, all is now desolate. The bed of the lake is now a rushy 

2* 



36 A TEOTfrESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

swamp, and the massy ruins of the castle only serve to show what 
their splendor once was, and to impress upon the mind of the visitor 
the transitory value of the humble happiness of those who enjoy an 
humble home in virtuous contentment." 

From the castle of Kenilworth we went to Warwick, only a few 
miles distant, which is also one of the noblest specimens of ancient 
grandeur this country now possesses. Owing to the recent death of 
the Countess of Warwick the doors of the Castle were closed to all 
visitors, and we were denied the privilege of going through those 
ancient halls and comparing them with others. The porter, how- 
ever, who was a good-natured and well-fed Englishman, was kind 
enough to conduct us over the grounds, and show to us some old 
relics that belonged to the giant Guy, Earl of Warwick. Among 
the many curious things I noticed was his armor, his sword weigh- 
ing twenty-two pounds and about seven feet in length, and his 
shield, helmet, breast-plate, walking staff and tilting pole are all of 
enormous size and undoubtedly very ancient ; the horse armor, on 
which is an inscription nearly obliterated, is of a later date. A large 
pot, called " Guy's pot," and his flesh fork, are really curious ; the 
pot holds one hundred and seventy gallons, and the weight with the 
fork eight hundred and seven pounds. Five of our party got into 
this pot, and there was room, like a buss, for one more. This enor- 
mous vessel is now used by the Warwick family for a punch-bowl, 
•:nd is filled three times in succession on the day when each heir of 
the Castle attains his majority. 

^ This is a place of much importance and great interest, from its 
being the chief seat of men whose names are intimately connected 
with the most prominent events of English history. The present 
Earl takes pride in keeping it in good repair, and it is now said to 
be among the most desirable country abodes in England. 

We are now in the town of Stratford, the birth-place and home 
of the " sweet swan of Avon," the immortal Shakspeare. One al- 
ways attaches to the cradle of greatness the idea of romance and 
beauty, for it is almost impossible to conceive that the genius of 
poetry could emanate from a little unpretending village such as I 
found this place to be. It is a clean, quiet town, pleasantly situated 
on the Avon, and surrounded by meadows, but its pretensions to 
celebrity would be small but for the magic of a name which has 



37 

penetrated into every region where civilized man has trodden. 
While here we visited the theatre, being rather curious to know 
how they would represent the characters of the great master of the 
drama in his native place. After groping our way through narrow 
streets and lanes for some time, we at last found the Adelphi of 
Stratford in an obscure part of the village. The door was kept by a 
woman, and the house was very small and plain, while the perform- 
ance was miserable, reflecting no credit on the dramatic corps ; it 
was such as would be hissed even in the theatre of Bowery, 

The house in which the poet was born still stands on the north 
side of Henley street, as a relic of the departed. As we entered the 
low but honored roof from whence came forth the man whose writ- 
ings are for all time, I could but smile at the extreme simplicity 
and primitiveness of every thing about it. The floor is paved with 
stones that, characteristically enough, are cut up into a host of splin- 
ters and fragments, as if really hacked by a butcher's cleaver. On 
one side is an old-fashioned log-cabin fireplace, with cozy sitting 
places on either side ; for in those smoky days, with penetrating 
draughts coming in on all sides, happy was he who was privileged 
to take a chimney-corner. In the room where Shakspeare was 
born, are inscribed on the walls, floor, window glass, and every 
other part of the room, the autographs of visitors desirous of doing 
honor to the memory of the departed, or themselves, according to 
circumstances. Among the many, I saw Sir Walter Scott's name 
cut with a diamond on the window glass. 

After seeing the birth-place, we proceeded to the village church, 
where Shakspeare's honored relics are entombed. The slab that 
covers the grave is the plainest in the church, being outside the 
chancel between his wife and eldest daughter, with the inscription 
written by himself : 

" Good friend, for Jesvs sake forbear 
To digg the dvst enclosed heare ; 
Blest be ye man yt spares these stones, 
And cvrst be he yt moves my bones." 



38 A TENNESSEAN AEEOAD ; OR, 



LETTER SIX. 

Oxford, England. 
The University — Students — Public Buildings — Libraries — Arundelian Marbles — Monument 
to Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer — Boat-racing — Blenheim, etc. 

We are now in Oxford, the seat of one of the most celebrated 
universities of Europe — distinguished alike for its antiquity and in- 
fluence upon the institutions and government of England. For here 
it is that the nobility for generations have resorted to acquire that 
early training and mental discipline necessary to render them capable 
to discharge the duties of office and manage the affairs of state. 
Here also have been educated many of those master spirits renowned 
in the arts and sciences, whose writings have shed light upon the 
world, and given to England a character for belles-lettres scholarship 
more enduring than the rock of ages. It is a place of very remote 
antiquity, as the period of its origin is involved in obscurity. The 
first fact connected with it that is known with certainty is, that in 
the reign of Alfred, who once resided here with his three sons, the 
place was noted for a monastery which was founded in the year 727. 
The origin of the university, like that of the town, is involved in ob- 
scurity. The first places of education here appear to have been 
schools for the instruction of youth. The earliest charter of privi- 
leges to the university as a corporate body is of the 28th Henry III., 
and it was in 1603 that the university obtained from James the First 
the privilege of sending two members to Parliament. 

The university now contains twenty colleges and Hve halls, and 
numbers upon the books of the different colleges and halls 5,400 
members. We may therefore say that Oxford is the city of col- 
leges, for without them it would have nothing to recommend it to 
particular notice. 

The buildings of the different institutions present a very antiquated 
appearance. Many of the walls are fast crumbling to decay, being 
built of a soft friable sandstone, which is easily affected by the in- 
fluence of the atmosphere, and gives to the buildings a sombre and 
gloomy aspect. The students, however, as they walk through these 
dark halls with their loose, flowing robes, gaze upon the old struc- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA,, A1STD ASIA. 39 

tures with pride and admiration, saying to themselves, "We come 
here to gather knowledge from the experience of those who have 
gone before us — and what place more fitting to burn the midnight 
taper than those venerable halls erected by the munificence of our 
ancestors ?" The students of Oxford conduct themselves with gen- 
tlemanly propriety and decorum, and every thing seems to move on 
like clock-work. A rebellion is out of the question, as no one dares 
presume to do aught against the rules of the institution, knowing 
that he would be instantly detected and brought to condign punish- 
ment. No one until recently could enter this university unless he 
had been received or baptized in the established Church of England, 
and consequently a religious influence pervades the entire establish- 
ment, and gives it a tone which in all probability it would not other- 
wise possess. 

In Oxford there are many very superior libraries, among which 
the Bodleian Library is particularly worthy of notice. It was found- 
ed by Sir Thomas Bodley, at the close of the sixteenth century, on 
the remains of one established by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester. 
This library is said to contain, perhaps, the most valuable collection 
of books and manuscripts in Europe. A description of its wonders 
and treasures would require far more time and space to do them the 
least measure of justice than I can here bestow. We passed around 
the quadrangle with its galleries one above another, and their alcoves 
on each side, with their thousands upon thousands of volumes of all 
languages and tongues neatly arranged on shelves, with convenient 
steps to them, and desks furnished with pen and ink for the use of 
those who seek this vast repository of the learning of the world. 
Some of the manuscripts which the polite official showed us were 
represented to be twelve, fourteen, and fifteen centuries old. A copy 
of the first authorized edition of the Bible, and the first ever printed, 
was also exhibited, besides many other things equally rare and curious. 
The collection of writings in Sanscrit is large enough alone to form a 
respectable library. Then there is a room appropriated for the re- 
ception of all the best periodicals from every country on earth — an 
assemblage of works which in ages to come must be exceedingly 
valuable. After visiting the library, we went to a room containing 
Arundelian Marbles, so called from Thomas Howard, Earl of Arun- 
del, by whom they were procured in Greece, and brought to Eng- 



40 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OE, 

land. They are curious specimens of antiquity. I did not examine 
the various objects with their inscriptions with any degree of minute- 
ness, as they were all hieroglyphical to me, and besides there has 
been published a full and accurate account of every article in the 
collection, with drawings of the same. 

In the middle of the street, fronting Baliol College, is a stone 
cross, marking the spot where Latimer, Ridley, and Cranmer were 
burned at the stake as martyrs during Mary's reign. And near this 
memorable place is a beautiful monument erected by public sub- 
scription to the memory of those pious men, who laid down their 
lives for refusing to subscribe to the Romish doctrine of transub- 
stantiation. The Church of England regard this spot with peculiar 
interest and veneration. 

After seeing every thing in the city worthy of the stranger's at- 
tention, we walked through one of the beautiful meadows near by, 
to the banks of the great river Thames, to witness the annual boat- 
race, in which the students take great pride. This race comes off 
every May, between the students of the different colleges. Each 
college has a beautiful boat constructed of light materials, and built 
with an eye to speed. Each boat has eight oars, manned by those 
selected by their comrades for skill and strength. The oarsmen are 
beautifully equipped in all the colors of the rainbow, and evince 
great pride in keeping all things in ship-shape. Several thousand 
persons assembled on the banks of the river to witness the sight, 
which was really exciting. To see twenty boats of different colors, 
all running after another with great speed, is a scene well worthy 
of the emulation of the young aspirants, and the attention of those 
who come many miles to witness it. 

Near the city of Oxford is Blenheim, the magnificent seat erected 
in the reign of Queen Anne, for the celebrated Duke of Marlborough. 
This elegant structure was designed by Sir J. Vanburgh, and one 
million pounds was granted by Parliament for its erection. The in- 
terior is splendidly adorned, and contains a valuable collection of 
pictures, and a library of more than 17,000 volumes, and an elegant 
chapel. The gardens are extensive, and the park, consisting of 
2,700 acres, is richly wooded, and the grounds are laid out with 
great taste. It is now the residence of one of the descendants of 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 4:1 

the original Duke, none of whom have done any thing to reflect 
honor upon their distinguished ancestor. 



LETTER SEVEN. 

London, England. 
The Great Industrial Exhibition — The National Representation — Our own Country — Amer- 
icans in London — Her Majesty and the Royal Family. 

Well, here we are at last in the very midst of modern Babylon — 
the city of busses, cabs, clamor, crowds, industry, poverty, and im- 
perial splendor — the great metroplis of England, and of the civilized 
world. After procuring comfortable apartments in a convenient part 
of the city, and making due preparations for several weeks' sojourn, 
we commenced our labors of sight-seeing. The first object of attrac- 
tion was of course the Crystal Palace, which has been the topic of 
conversation and newspaper speculation in all parts of the world 
ever since it was projected. I regretted exceedingly that we were 
not here to witness the opening of the exhibition, in the presence of 
Her Majesty, Prince Albert, and the royal family, which is said to 
have been the grandest display of regal splendor ever witnessed in 
London. The opening was successful beyond the most sanguine ex- 
pectations of those particularly interested. Every thing was con- 
ducted with perfect order and system, and the day passed off in peace 
and quietude, much to the gratification of the Queen and all her 
subjects. When I first beheld this truly magnificent structure, with 
all its contents, I was utterly bewildered, and experienced pretty 
much the same feeling that a greenhorn would upon his first en- 
tance into a fancy store. I saw so many beauties, that I was com- 
pletely at a loss which to look at first, or to tell which I liked most. 
To give you any thing like a correct idea of the Exhibition would 
require volumes, and then I would fail, for no pen is adequate to 
delineate perfectly all that is here to be seen. I have read many 
accounts, and listened to the descriptions of many, but they all fail 
to come up to my ideas of the magnificence of the undertaking. As 
you have long since read descriptions of the building in the prints, 



42 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OK, 

and are perfectly familiar with its structure and dimensions, it is un- 
necessary for me to notice it, further than to say that it is a wonder- 
ful work, furnishing a remarkable example of the triumph of human 
genius and skill. Mr. Paxton, the superintendent of the gardens at 
Chatsworth, who designed the Crystal Palace after the Duke of 
Devonshire's conservatory, so arranged it as to furnish ample room 
for the display of all the various specimens of human industry, whether 
directed to the productions of art or the creations of nature, in the 
smallest allowable space, and in a light to afford opportunities for a 
fair examination. In a word, order and system were to be secured 
in an assemblage, where, from the multitude of objects and visitors, 
confusion and disorder were naturally to be feared. The entire 
palace is so arranged and divided into compartments as to furnish 
every convenience for the reception of the various offerings of indus- 
try ; and each division is marked with the names of the different 
countries represented, so as to prevent any confusion or mistake. 
This arrangement also furnishes a great facility to visitors in en- 
abling them to compare the articles of the different countries with 
the aid of the catalogue, without the perplexity of asking and being 
asked questions. 

The first object that attracted my attention upon entering was a 
glass fountain, occupying the central place in the building. It is a 
very curious piece of work, showing the extent to which glass can 
be employed for decorative purposes, and exhibits the beauty of the 
material in large works. Near four tons of crystal or flint glass are 
employed in the construction of this fountain, which may be, with- 
out much difficulty, converted into a superb candelabrum. It is 
kept constantly in play — scattering the pure clear water in a hun- 
dred fantastic shapes, which falls into a marble basin in which are to 
be seen fish of every hue and shape. Around this cooling fount were 
assembled the representatives of nearly every nation and clime in 
the world, who furnish subjects of study quite as interesting to me 
as their industrial products. The lively Frenchman, neatly dressed 
and restless, as if he wished to see all at one sight, as he passed 
quickly from object to object, could not fail to be distinguished 
from the heavy Dutchman, who, with hands crossed behind his back 
a la Napoleon, surveyed each specimen in the great collection with 
the keen scrutiny of a Jew, intent upon receiving Lis due, even to 



LETTERS FROM ETJROrE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 43 

the pound of flesh. The grave-looking Turk was there, with his 
flowing robes and turban of ample folds encircling his head, and the 
Persian, whose pants drawn tight around his ankles and the seat de- 
pending below the calves of his legs, and a loose jacket thrown over 
his shoulders, with a species of turban set carelessly upon his head, 
betrayed his eastern origin too plainly to be mistaken. The Span- 
iard was known by his proud look, and our own countrymen by 
their free and independent bearing ; the Tunisian by his olive com- 
plexion, moustaches, and queer-looking blue cap and abundance of 
beard ; and the Chinese by his eyes with the outward corners thrown 
upwards, the head shorn except on the top and back, his long queue 
hanging almost to his heels, and his dress not unlike the under gar- 
ment of a woman. The Italian was present, known by his brown 
complexion and dark hazel eye ; and lastly, the burly Englishman, 
by his half-open mouth as he waddled along among the products of 
industrial skill, panting for breath, and thinking of brown ale and 
roast beef, and ready to swear that the English excelled all people 
of the earth. So much then for the variety of races at the World's 
Fair, though the subject, so far from being exhausted, has only been 
glanced at. 

As I said in the beginning, it would be useless to attempt a de- 
scription of the contents of the Fair in the short space assigned to a 
letter. All that I can hope to do is to speak of the general effect 
and the comparative representations of the different nations. The 
articles exhibited are all of the very best quality, showing that great 
pains was taken to produce the perfection of art and taste. One is 
here surrounded by the results of the efforts of thought in almost 
every direction in which the human mind has tried its powers. The 
mineral, the vegetable, and the animal kingdoms, have contributed 
the material upon which man has worked ; and the various arts by 
which these have been made to assume every variety of form, for 
use or ornament, have here the most ample illustration. Here an 
opportunity is offered, unequalled in the world's history, for us to 
learn what, through times past, man has aimed at — what he has 
reached in the present, and what may be the powers of advance- 
ment which still remain for him. 

The United Kingdom of Great Britain, as anticipated, was repre- 
sented in all her glory. Every thing that could be done was done 



44 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

to make her industrial products compare with that of the great 
family of nations. Machinery, and manufactured articles of every 
description, both for utility and ornament, were displayed to the 
greatest possible advantage. Being more interested in the success 
of the Exhibition than any other nation, and being the immediate 
recipient of all the benefits accruing, it is natural to suppose that she 
would excel those countries that had nothing to gain further than a 
desire to be well represented, and whose products had to be con- 
veyed from great distances, at a very heavy expense. Next to Eng- 
land and her Provinces, France seems to be most fully represented. 
Her apartments are arranged in the real French style, and her con- 
tributions are of the most elegant and costly character. Austria is 
among the first — her products are of the most remarkable character. 
The porcelain, glass, and sculptured articles are very striking ex- 
amples of those classes of manufacture. The contributions from 
Prussia, Spain, Italy, Turkey, and nearly all the European nations 
are highly important, each one of which would furnish subject 
matter for a volume. The Eastern countries, although far removed, 
are well represented in their articles of curious workmanship. 

In speaking of the various countries that have sent their contribu- 
tions to the Exhibition, I find that I have omitted our own United 
States, from which so much was expected, and I am sorry to say so 
little realized. Nearly the first object that attracted my attention 
upon entering the Palace was the American Eagle perched aloft in 
one of the most conspicuous places, holding the stars and stripes in 
her talons, and bearing the motto, E Pluribus Unum, in letters 
large enough to read a half mile off. Seeing the old bird holding a 
lofty bearing and wide-spread pinions, as if she were guarding the 
treasures of all the States, my national pride was aroused, and I im- 
mediately repaired to her quarters, thinking that I would there find 
something far more interesting than the contributions of any other 
nation. But my expectations were not realized ; I mistook the old 
bird's meaning, for instead of guarding her industrial products she 
was spreading her wings over an immense desert, with an oasis only 
here and there, to relieve the dull monotony. As my eye ranged 
round this comparatively unoccupied portion of the building, my 
ardor was a little cooled, for after making such a large demand for 
space, we had failed to occupy one third appointed to us. When 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 45 

tlie Commissioners were assigning to the several nations of the earth 
their places in the Palace, our Minister secured a space larger than 
any of the rest, according to the extent and capabilities of the coun- 
try, which, if occupied as he anticipated, would have reflected honor 
upon the whole nation. In no one branch of industry is the United 
States fairly or adequately represented ; in this all Americans here 
agree. The North, or New-England States, are not represented 
either as to the extent, the progress, or the variety of their manufac- 
tures. The Middle States, which are second to none in the inven- 
tion and construction of machinery, have here but three or four ma- 
chines, which are very good of their kind, but fail to give to the 
mechanics of England the faintest idea of our progress in this par- 
ticular. The Western and Southern States, so rich in their agricul- 
tural resources and variety of products, are, I may say, not repre- 
sented at all, for out of the many kinds of cotton cultivated, we find 
here but samples of seven, while the different varieties of sugar in 
the State of Louisiana are represented by one specimen from a single 
plantation. The question naturally arises to the inquiring mind as 
to the causes of this magnificent failure. The main cause lies at the 
door of the committee at Washington, who rather threw cold water 
upon the undertaking, and failed to infuse into our people the spirit 
of rivalry, by acquainting them officially with the extent of the Ex- 
hibition. Secondly, Congress has unfortunately made no appropria- 
tion, as in other countries, to assist exhibitors ; and this has tended 
to strengthen the third cause, the remoteness of the scene of action, 
which rendered the transmission of our contributions expensive and 
inconvenient. What we have is very good, but the great difficulty 
is, we have so little that it makes comparatively no show at all. 
Powers' Greek Slave attracts more attention than any thing else, 
and deservedly, for it is decidedly the most beautiful piece of statu- 
ary in the Exhibition, and reflects honor upon the distinguished 
sculptor and his country. Daguerreotypes, piano-fortes, and India- 
rubber manufactures are largely illustrated ; also agricultural ma- 
chines, lard oil, and fancy soaps. The most wonderful thing, how- 
ever, in the American collection, is an iron safe, with one of Hobbs' 
locks. It is so constructed that no person but the inventor can open 
it. Mr. Hobbs placed two hundred pounds in this safe, which he 
offers to any man in England who can pick the lock, and at the same 



46 

time wagers one hundred pounds that he can pick, in fifteen min- 
utes, any lock in England, not excepting even Chub's celebrated 
lock, which is now used in the vaults of the Bank of England, and 
upon which there have been delivered many lectures. Such a pro- 
position appeared ludicrous to the advocates of Chub's lock, who 
endeavored to laugh Hobbs out of countenance by saying that he 
was either deranged or half-witted even to suppose that his lock 
could not be picked by an Englishman, who are generally more ex- 
pert in such things than any other people. Hobbs, however, like a 
true Yankee, was not to be hoodwinked in this manner. He de- 
manded a fair trial, which was readily granted, and in the presence 
of several Bank officers he succeeded with the simplest kind of an in- 
strument in picking their favorite lock, which was considered the very 
best ever invented. The officers present stood by and looked at Hobbs 
with perfect amazement, wondering how he managed to pick Chub's 
lock in fifteen minutes' time with so little difficulty. On the evening 
that this feat was performed a lecture was to be delivered on Chub's 
lock, and the officers who witnessed the picking, desirous of saving 
the character of the lecturer, dispatched a messenger to inform him 
that Chub's lock was no more ; but it was too late, the lecturer had 
commenced, and there was no remedy. If Hobbs' invention proves 
to be what he represents, it will be a triumph worth talking about. 
I also noticed a caloric engine, which the inventor states has many 
novelties, and will eventually supersede the use of steam ; but I 
rather think it will not turn out as represented, as it appears to be 
but a modified arrangement for heating and cooling air, produced by 
some gases not named, under a piston, as in Ericsson's ordinary en- 
gine. 

After all said and done, the United States will derive more bene- 
fit from this grand exhibition than any other nation. She has not 
contributed much, but she has sent some of her ablest mechanics 
here to note the contributions of other countries, which they will 
carry home for adoption and improvement. 

The Queen and the royal family visit the Exhibition nearly every 
morning at half-past nine. The doors are opened for the people 
about ten o'clock, and those who go early have a fine opportunity 
of seeing her Majesty. She walks about the Palace with her suite, 
and examines the different articles with much interest. The stranger 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 47 

would fail to recognise her in the multitude were it not for the great 
deference paid to her by her subjects, who seem to idolize her. As 
she passes through the crowd on her way to the carriage, which 
stands at a private door, the people standing on either side of the 
avenue take off their hats and return her salutations with great def- 
erence. In appearance the Queen is not remarkable ; her figure is 
short and rather embonpoint, her hair and eyes light, and her coun- 
tenance indicative of nothing more than benevolence. Prince Albert 
is certainly fine-looking, but falls far short of the description given 
of him in the English prints. He is devoted to his Queen and 
family, and holds a high place in the affections of the English 
people. 



LETTER EIGHT. 

London, England. 
Visit to Westminster Abbey — The Houses of Parliament — The Members — The Thames, 
Bridges, and Tunnel. 

" From hence we may that antique pile behold, 
Where regal heads receive the sacred gold; 
It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep; 
There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep ; 
Making the circle of their reign complete, 
The suns of empire, where they rise they set." 

Westminster Abbey has been called, with much propriety, the 
Pantheon of the glory of Britain ; for it is its monuments and 
ancient remains which render the Abbey so precious to English- 
men, and all those who admire the works of by-gone ages. Here 
lie nearly all of the kings, queens, princes, statesmen, philosophers, 
and poets of England, from the time of Edward the Confessor to 
George the Second. It is essentially the home of the mighty dead 
— for here sleep the illustrious men who have adorned life by their 
virtues, or enlightened the world by their labors in the various 
departments of human knowledge, who have reigned as the fathers 
of the people, ruling in the fear of God, or have governed with an 
iron rod, and in the indulgence of their passions have violated every 
law human and divine. Their ashes repose here in peace * their 



48 

souls are with Him who gave them being, and will hereafter call 
them to stand at the bar of eternal judgment. 

As we walked through the avenues of this venerable structure, 
and gazed on the monumental inscriptions of the departed, a crowd 
of thoughts rushed upon my mind, reminding me forcibly of the 
many historical associations connected with it ; for aside from being 
remarkable as the depository of the great and good, it has been the 
place where the Roman Catholic magnate once celebrated mass with 
more than eastern splendor — where the Puritan once poured forth 
his fervent but holy exhortation. Here the terrible sentence of 
excommunication has been launched forth in all its terrors, and here 
the first English Bible issued from the press. Here, also, the mag- 
nificence and pomp of the regal coronation have followed the solemn 
and beautiful burial service for the dead. 

This truly noble specimen of Gothic architecture was originally 
founded in the seventh century, by Sebert, King of the East Saxons, 
in the year 610; but being afterwards destroyed by the Danes, it 
was rebuilt by King Edgar in 958. Edward the Confessor again 
rebuilt the abbey and cathedral on a larger scale, in 1066, when 
Pope Nicholas II. constituted it the place of inauguration of the 
Kings of England, and gave it the form of a cross, which thence- 
forward became the usual form for cathedral building in England. 
Henry III. made large additions to the abbey in 1245. Henry VII. 
also made an addition, which is regarded as a remarkable specimen 
of architecture, yet adds nothing to the beauty of the building, as it 
is not in keeping with the original design. In the general plunder 
of monasteries and. church property, which distinguished the reign 
of Henry VIII., this abbey, among others, suffered severely ; but it 
was more injured by the Puritans in the great civil war, who left it 
in a state of dilapidation. Sir Christopher Wren was afterwards 
intrusted with the task of repairing the great national edifice, which 
is now greatly improved, and stands a monument that every true 
Englishman is proud of. 

The monuments in the Abbey are, generally speaking, of a very 
plain and unostentatious character, particularly those that mark the 
resting-places of the truly great. Thus, Milton, Dryden, and rare 
Ben Jonson. But the sepulchres of the kings are somewhat differ- 
ent. Here we find great efforts made at the grand, the ornate, and 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 49 

the beautiful. Mary, styled the "bloody Mary," and her sister 
Elizabeth, both repose in the same tomb, and one monument covers 
them both. I looked with melancholy interest on the monument 
erected by James I. in honor of his mother, Mary, Queen of Scots. 
There are very many interesting objects to be seen here, and among 
them we were shown the chair used at the coronation of the Kings 
and Queens of England. It was made in the reign of Edward I., 
and presents nothing remarkable for beauty of form or costliness of 
material. Immediately under the seat is fixed the stone of Scone, 
from Scotland, which was formerly used at the crowning of the 
Scottish kings. The chair itself is perfectly plain, and appears to 
have been hacked and carved with penknives not a little, by persons 
desirous of cutting their names upon the coronation chair of English 
monarchs. I noticed among the monuments one erected to the mem- 
ory of the unfortunate Major Andre, Adjutant-General to the British 
army in America. It sets forth his melancholy end, the esteem in 
which he was held both by his friends and his foes, and concludes 
by stating that his remains had been deposited in November, 1821, 
in a grave near the monument. 

I left the old abbey with a feeling of reluctance ; for in the short 
space of time allotted, I could take barely a glance at objects that 
were well worth a day's reflection. 

Just opposite Westminster Abbey, on the banks of the Thames, 
or Terns, as the English term it, is the Palace of Westminster, or 
new Houses of Parliament, which is, without doubt, the most impor- 
tant architectural work which has been undertaken in this country 
since the re-edification of St. Paul's Cathedral. The old Houses 
having been destroyed by fire, Oct. 15, 1839, the present magnifi- 
cent structure was commenced, from the designs of C. Barry, Esq., 
in 1840, and is now rapidly approaching completion. The plan of 
this truly national edifice is extremely simple. It is constructed 
entirely of hard magnesian limestone and cast-iron, in the Gothic 
style of architecture, and will endure, in all probability, as long as 
England continues its present form of government. The towers of 
this enormous building are crowned by majestic symbols of the 
British monarchy ; its walls are girt with the heraldic insignia of a 
long race of kings ; its chambers glow with all the associations of 
chivalry, religion, and of justice ; and when completed, it will stand 



50 A TENNESSEAKT ABROAD ; OR, 

a monument of enduring splendor to the reign of the present 
dynasty. 

To convey to you some idea of the magnitude of Westminster 
Palace, I will give the dimensions of the whole building. The east- 
ward presents a frontage of nearly one thousand feet. When com- 
plete, it will cover an area of nine statute acres. The great tower 
at the southwestern extremity, which has already been raised to the 
height of one hundred and eighty feet, will ultimately reach the 
gigantic elevation of three hundred and forty-six feet. Its cubic 
contents exceed 15,000,000 feet, being one-half greater than St. 
Paul's, and it contains not less than between five and six hundred 
distinct apartments, amongst which will be a chapel for Divine 
worship formed out of the crypt of old St. Stephen's. As far as I am 
able to judge, I regard the structure as perfect in arrangement, 
detail, warming, ventilation, and all other conveniences. 

After examining the architectural beauty and utility of the build- 
ing, we w r ent into the halls of legislation, which I have always had 
a desire to see, and compare with our own national bodies. We 
were fortunate in procuring seats where we could see and hear every 
thing distinctly in the House of Commons, and I must say that I 
was really disappointed in the appearance of the body, their 
demeanor, and manner of conducting business. A very important 
resolution was under consideration while we were there, viz., a reso- 
lution condemnatory of the punishments inflicted during the dis- 
turbances in Ceylon ; of the conduct of Lord Torrington, the late 
governor of that island ; and of that of Earl Grey, in signifying her 
Majesty's approbation of Lord Torrington's conduct during and sub- 
sequent to the disturbances. The debate was heated, and we had a 
fine opportunity of hearing the best speakers of the House under 
favorable auspices ; and I feel safe in saying that not one of them 
would have been regarded with us as either effective or eloquent. 
It did not strike me as a dignified body, but on the contrary, was, 
if any thing, a little w r orse than our House of Representatives. The 
members were very generally engaged in conversation, or moving 
about during the debate, and all sat covered except him who for the 
time occupied the floor in speaking. During a man's speech, he is 
frequently annoyed and the House thrown in confusion by the cry 
of Hear, hear, hear, which is generally followed by the deep, hoarse 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 51 

voice of the Speaker calling out Order, order, order. Very tart 
and occasionally acrimonious language was used in debate ; most 
generally, however, it was hypothetical, and qualified in the end, so 
as to be harmless or retracted. The members are arranged, as with 
us, on opposite sides of the chamber. Those who support the 
government or administration sit on the right of the Speaker, and 
those opposed on his left. 

We next went into the House of Lords, which presents a more 
dignified appearance than the Commons, but failed to impress me 
with that veneration and respect that I always experienced when I 
entered the Senate Chamber at Washington. We had the pleasure 
of hearing the Duke of Argyle, Lord Brougham, and several other 
distinguished Lords, upon a bill to suppress the sale of spirituous 
liquors. The subject certainly was not one calculated to bring out 
the powers of the speaker, yet it gave us an opportunity of forming 
an estimate of the body. I was struck with this fact in all the 
speaking that I heard in the House of Lords and Commons, a 
degree of hesitation or stammering, which is very unpleasant to the 
ear, and spoils the beauty of language. The oratory of Americans 
in the legislature, on the stump, at the bar, and in the pulpit, is far 
superior to any thing that I have yet heard in this country. 

From Westminster Bridge we had a fine view of the great Thames 
and the seven bridges that span its channel, which are like so many 
bee-hives, with the tide of humanity going each way. It is really 
astonishing to think of the vast amount of commerce carried on in 
this river, which we in the States, accustomed to the great inland 
sea, would call nothing but a large creek. Yet small and filthy as 
it is, we see the vessels of all nations floating upon its surface, indi- 
cating an amount of trade no where else to be seen. 

The bridges across the Thames are generally built of stone at an 
immense cost. They are too low to make much show, but are sub- 
stantial structures, every way suited to accommodate the public. 

From Westminster Bridge we drove down the Surrey side of 
London to the great Tunnel, through which we passed. This extra- 
ordinary undertaking was originally projected and carried out by Sir 
T. K. Brunei, and is an enduring monument of his skill and enter- 
prise, notwithstanding it has failed in its results as a pass way, most 
pei sons preferring to cross on the bridges. It consists of a square 



52 

mass of brick work, thirty-seven feet wide by twenty-two high, con- 
taining in it two archways, each of the width of sixteen feet four 
inches ; each road is thirteen feet six inches wide, and fifteen feet 
six inches high, and footpaths three feet wide. There is a central 
line of arches separating the two passages, some of them wide 
enough for a carriage to go from one side of the Tunnel to the 
other. Between these archways are gas lamps and stalls for refresh- 
ments, trinkets, &c, kept by females, who are exceedingly annoying 
to visitors. The entire length of the Tunnel is thirteen hundred feet, 
and the thickness between the vault of the Tunnel and the Thames 
above, fifteen feet. It cost £611,000. Toll, one penny. To civil 
engineers, or persons interested in scientific pursuits, this structure 
possesses great attractions, for it is regarded as the most extraordi- 
nary triumph of science and perseverance in all England. 



LETTER NINE. 

London, England. 
Excursion to Windsor Castle— The Palaces of London — The Royal Mews — Amateur perform- 
ances at the Devonshire House — The Royal Italian Opera, etc. 

Taking advantage of a clear sun and cloudless skies, which Lon- 
doners are rarely permitted to enjoy, we formed an agreeable party, 
and made an excursion to Windsor Castle, one of the country seats 
of Her Majesty the Queen. 

It is beautifully situated on a lofty eminence about twenty miles 
from London, and possesses many attractions to render it an agreea- 
ble retreat from the noise and bustle of a city life. It does not equal 
Chatsworth, which I have previously described, either in the extent 
of the grounds, the magnificence of the castle, or the elegant manner 
in which the various apartments are furnished. Visitors are per- 
mitted to go over every part of the castle except the Queen's private 
apartments, which are inaccessible, except by an order from the Lord 
Chamberlain during her absence. The state-rooms are fitted up in 
very good style, and the walls are adorned by a great number of 
paintings by the most eminent masters, which the visitor is permitted 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 53 

merely to glance at, being ushered by the guide in rapid succession 
from one room to another. Windsor Castle has been the principal 
seat of British royalty for upwards of seven centuries. The Saxon 
kings had a palace here long before the conquest. The present 
castle was founded by William the Conqueror, but was almost re- 
built by Edward III., with the assistance of the celebrated William 
Wykeham, who superintended the works. Great alterations were 
subsequently made by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, during the reign of 
George IV. St. George's Chapel is an elegant specimen of florid 
Gothic architecture. It is the most interesting portion of the castle, 
as it contains the stalls of the Knights of the Garter, and the re- 
mains of some of the most distinguished characters of England. 
George III. and his Queen, George IV., the Princess Charlotte, the 
Duke of Kent, the Duke of York, William IV., and Queen Adelaide 
are deposited in the vaults of this chapel ; also Edward IV. and his 
Queen. Henry VI., Henry VIII., Jane Seymour, and Charles I. are 
here interred. The keep, or round tower, in the centre of the castle, 
is perhaps the most remarkable part of the building. It is of great 
height, and furnishes a beautiful view of the parks and surrounding 
country. Here James I. of Scotland was confined, and here the 
Queen frequently resorts to enjoy the pure air and the luxury of quiet 
meditation. 

From Windsor, we repaired to Buckingham Palace, the city resi- 
dence of the Queen, which is regarded as the most elaborate and 
magnificent building of the kind in London. It was commenced 
during the reign of George IV., who after the most lavish and extra- 
vagant expenditure, exceeding £600,000, abandoned it as altogether 
unfit for the pageantries of royalty, and but little suited as a place 
of residence for his Majesty. William IV. not liking the building 
or the situation, it was not occupied until the accession of Victoria, 
when various alterations, additions, and improvements were made in 
accordance with her wishes, and the requirements of an increasing 
family. As it now stands it is an ornament to the city, and a build- 
ing in every way suited for the residence of the royal family. 

After examining the palace, we walked around to see the royal 
mews, which are very near. The state carriage is a superb piece of 
workmanship, being elaborately carved, finished with gilt work, and 
adorned with all the devices of royalty. The carriages used on ordi- 



54 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

nary occasions, numbering some forty-five or fifty, are substantial, 
but not very elegant or expensive. The state horses are the most 
beautiful animals I ever saw, being almost perfect in form, size, and 
color. The Queen has in all about three hundred horses, many of 
which are very superior. What sense can there be in having so 
many carriages and horses for the use of one little woman and her 
children, when one third of the number would answer every purpose ? 
But in monarchies the whims and caprices of the sovereign must be 
indulged — it matters not how foolish and extravagant — and at the 
expense of the democracy ', the fruits of whose labors are applied to 
uphold the false dignity of the nation. 

Several of the London palaces have rooms beautifully fitted out in 
theatrical style for the exhibition of amateur performances. Those who 
assist in the plays are from private circles, who volunteer their services 
merely to gratify the lord of the house, or benefit some laudable in- 
stitution in need of pecuniary assistance. The guests are always 
ticketed by the lord, notwithstanding they are required to pay enor- 
mously for the honor of being invited. These performances are 
always select, and generally wind up with a ball and supper, which 
adds much to the enjoyment of the evening. 

The Duke of Devonshire gave one of these entertainments recently 
at his city residence, in Picadilly, for the benefit of the " Literary 
Guild." Sir E. B. Lytton's comedy was represented most beautifully, 
and a new farce of the old extravagant school, which seems to have 
been written for the purpose of showing the talents of Mr. C. 
Dickens, in what is called a " personation" part Mr. Dickens sus- 
tained himself in his usual manner, displaying great versatility of 
genius, and some drollery in the system of disguising and counter- 
disguising. The evening wound up with a ball and a supper, and 
every thing was conducted in superior style. 

London is now full of attractions of every description. All the 
various places of amusement are in full blast, affording to foreigners 
visiting the Exhibition an opportunity of passing their evenings 
pleasantly. The opera houses are peculiarly attractive at this time, 
being fortunate in procuring for the season the best talent in Europe. 
Mesdames Sontag, Castellan, and Grisi are all here, and you can well 
imagine what a sensation they create among the uppertendom of 
London. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 55 



The Queen honors one of the opera houses nearly every evening 
with her presence, accompanied by distinguished foreigners. Her 
presence is always a sure guarantee for a brilliant house, as many per- 
sons go there to show their loyalty, and others merely to gaze on 
her Majesty's little round face. 



LETTER TEN. 

London, England. 

Excursion to Epsom — Tower of London — Docks and Vaults, etc. 

A few days since, the great city of London was in a perfect state 
of commotion — cabs, busses, and postillions were hurrying to and 
fro in every direction. Lords and ladies, gentlemen and cockneys, 
together with the stranger from every clime, were in a perfect state 
of excitement, indicating to the calm observer that something of 
more than ordinary interest was on the tapis. Having previous in- 
timation through a friend that the celebrated Derby stake would 
come off on that day, we agreed to make an excursion to Epsom, 
and mingle for a time among the sportsmen of England. Failing to 
procure a private conveyance, we hurried across London bridge to the 
railroad station, where we found some two or three thousand persons 
endeavoring to obtain tickets and seats. Seeing this eager crowd 
pushing and scuffling in their efforts to get ahead of each other, my 
friend remarked that our chance of witnessing the races was rather 
slim. I replied to him not to fear, that I would play a Yankee trick 
upon them and get tickets before our time. Assuming an air con- 
sequential, (for I believe it was not nature,) I passed along through 
the crowd, saying, " Gentlemen, allow me to pass if you please." 
Thinking that I was either a railroad official, or person wishing to 
attend to something very urgent, they politely gave way, and I pro- 
cured tickets without any difficulty. But this was the smallest part 
of the trouble ; after getting our tickets we found it still more diffi- 
cult to get seats, as none were secured. As the train, numbering 
some fifty or sixty cars, came alongside the platform, the rush to get 
seats was intense, in which several persons were seriously injured. 



56 A TENNESSEAST ABROAD ; OK, 

By purely physical force, we succeeded in getting seated in a first 
class car, while many were compelled to wait for the next train. In 
a few minutes we found ourselves at the Epsom station, which is very 
near the race-course. Here we came in contact with footmen, and 
persons in every sort of conveyance, making their way to the great 
place of excitement. Upon reaching the hill-top where the princi- 
pal stand is situated, our eyes rested on a perfect sea of humanity, 
all eager to get good positions, in order to see the race advantageously. 
I was disappointed in the appearance of the course. It is very un- 
even, and entirely without improvement, with the exception of the 
central stand, which is very large and fine. The track is about fifty 
yards in width, and one mile round, inclosed with a simple wooden 
railing. You are of course aware, that in England they race exclu- 
sively on the turf, which they say is far preferable to our mode of 
ploughing and harrowing. I do not know how this is exactly, not 
being well versed in such things; but it strikes me, that in moist 
weather the suction on the turf would very much impede the pro- 
gress of the horses. During the day we witnessed several races, and 
all sorts of games and tricks for money, by the lower classes, very 
like those that are to be seen in the obscure parts of our sporting 
grounds. At three o'clock the grand Derby stake came off, and I 
do assure you it was a magnificent sight — surpassing any thing of 
the kind that I ever saw. Thirty- three horses were entered, and 
every one run out, something unprecedented in the Derby stake. 
The horses all appeared to be of the best blood and training*, and are 
loubtless excellent racers, but I feel confident in saying that Ten- 
nessee can produce a better horse than any one in this stake. 
Englishmen would say that this was an Americanism — but if proved, 
it would turn out a truism. However, I should not complain, as it 
surpassed any thing, take it altogether, to be seen in the States. 
Thirty-three horses running together, beautifully housed, with riders 
dressed in all the colors of the rainbow, and with eight or ten thou- 
sand people on the ground to witness them, is a sight not often to 
be seen in any country. Epsom is more resorted to by the masses 
than any other place in England, but the Queen and the nobility 
frequent and patronize Ascot Heath, near Windsor Castle. It is 
farther removed from London than Epsom, and consequently is not 
so much crowded on race days. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 57 

After seeing the race we returned to London and visited the Tower, 
which possesses more interesting reminiscences than any other build- 
ing in the city. Its glory is all in the past. Take from it its early 
history, and you divest it of every thing, since so far from being an 
imposing object to the eye, it shows itself only as a huddled up mass 
of buildings, some of them very much modernized, and none of 
them, with the exception of the new barracks, particularly dignified 
in appearance. The only part of the old building worthy of atten- 
tion, is a lofty upright sructure distinguished by the name of the 
" White Tower," which, with the turrets and its angles, forms a bold 
and conspicuous architectural object in the views from various points. 
This part of the building is supposed to have been erected by the 
Conqueror, about 1078, who employed Gundulph, Bishop of Roches- 
ter, for his architect. It is a quadrangular, and nearly square edifice, 
measuring about 116 feet on one side, and 96 on the other, and is 
about 90 feet high, exclusive of the turrets at the four angles. 

This tower was originally used as a royal palace, but during the 
reign of Elizabeth it was converted into a dungeon, and continued 
to be used for that purpose until the year 1820. Thistlewood and 
his associates in the Cato street conspiracy were the last prisoners 
confined within its walls, five of whom were executed on the 1st of 
May, in the same year. The vault where Sir Walter Raleigh was 
confined, and in which he wrote his History of the World ; the spot 
where Mary Queen of Scots was executed ; the execution block and 
axe, are pointed out to the visitor as objects particularly worthy of 
notice. The Tower has been the depository of the crown jewels 
from the reign of Henry IV. ; here are preserved the coronation re- 
galia, including the new imperial crown, and other emblems of 
royalty used by the sovereigns of England at their coronation, the 
value of which is estimated at more than three millions of money. 
The crown worn by Victoria is valued at one million sterling. The 
celebrated diamond of Runjeet Singh, Koh i Noor, the tale of which 
is so momentous, and the value of which is so great, being computed 
to be worth £2,000,000 sterling, is usually deposited here, but is at 
present placed in the Exhibition for show, being secured by an iron 
case and box, which is in itself a very ingenious piece of mechanical 
contrivance. 

In this Tower there are very many curious things worthy of at- 



58 A " TENNESSEAK ABROAD; OR, 

tention, and among them I must mention the Horse Armory, erected 
in 1826, in a low and not very wide room, built in the Gothic style. 
Here are ranged a long line of British monarchs and warriors, on 
their war steeds, and cased in complete armor, the whole forming a 
very interesting record of the various changes which have taken 
place in the use of armor, from the time of Edward the First to 
that of James the Second. The ceiling of this room is characteristi- 
cally ornamented with devices and decorations, composed of spears, 
pistols, and other military weapons. On the right of this armory is 
another room of similar dimensions, containing specimens of the 
different kinds of firearms in use at various times since the first in- 
vention of gunnery ; also, swords, helmets, girdles, and Chinese mili- 
tary dress, taken in the conflicts between the British and Chinese. 
The Tower is altogether an exceedingly interesting place, about which 
much can be said and written, but I must forbear. 

Near the Tower are the celebrated docks of London, which con- 
tain more shipping than any other place in the world. The accom- 
modation, however, enormous as it is, is proportionally very inferior 
to that of Liverpool, which I have described in a previous letter. 
One cannot fully appreciate the power, the wealth, and the world- 
wide commerce of London until he visits her shipping, where are to 
be found concentrated the evidences of a commerce, and of a con- 
course of nations no where else to be seen. The warehouses and 
vaults are truly extraordinary, and the volume of value of their 
contents cannot but overwhelm the beholder. For instance, the 
tobacco warehouses will alone contain twenty-four thousand hogs- 
heads, and are rented by government at £14,000 a year. The tea 
warehouses erected in the last few years are capacious enough to 
hold one hundred and twenty thousand chests of tea ; while the 
vault of the same establishment, covering an area of eighteen acres, 
will contain the incredible quantity of sixty thousand six hundred 
pipes of wine. While we were making our way through these cata- 
combs, I was forcibly reminded of the dark recesses of the Mammoth 
Cave. The deep shadows, the impenetrable gloom, imperfectly illu- 
mined by the torches carried by the attendant coopers, which cast 
their red glare a brief space, and serving only to make " darkness 
visible," the long fringe hanging from the walls, the long rows of 
huge barrels, and the deep silence that prevailed, all conspired to in- 



AND ASIA. 59 

vest a commonplace matter of fact with an air almost of romance 
and mystery. The atmosphere in these vaults is precisely the same 
that we find in large caves, and the visitor must be careful not to 
indulge too freely in the different wines that are offered to him by 
the attendant if he wishes to come out as he went in. You do not 
feel the effects of the delicious draught while you are in the vault, 
but as soon as you reacn your native climate its influence begins to 
operate, and you find yourself almost imperceptibly in a delightful 
state of intoxication. 



LETTER ELEVEN. 

London, England. 
St. Paul's Cathedral — Meeting of the Charity Schools — The Ragged Schools-^Pauperism — 
Hospitals — Markets, etc., etc. 

In a previous letter I gave you a description of Westminster 
Abbey, which is without doubt the most imposing and interesting 
structure to be seen in England ; but of all the religious edifices of 
London — amounting to upwards of seven hundred, and composing 
the most prominent share of its architectural splendor — there is none 
more worthy of attention, or more calculated to awaken the curi- 
osity of the visitor, than St. Paul's Cathedral. It does not lay claim 
to great antiquity, neither does it possess those early associations 
which render the Abbey so interesting ; yet from its vast dimen- 
sions, great height, and commanding position, it may be regarded 
as the most conspicuous edifice of the metropolis, while its architec- 
tural merits make it one of the most magnificent. The ancient 
Gothic cathedral, which originally stood on the same spot, was 
destroyed in the great fire of London, 1666, when the erection of 
the present building was intrusted to that master architect, Sir 
Christopher Wren, under whose direction it was completed in 1715. 
The first stone of the new cathedral was laid on the 21st of June, 
1675, by the architect and his lodge of freemasons. The trowel 
and mallet used on this occasion are still preserved in the Lodge of 
Antiquity, of which Sir Christopher was Master. The general form, 
or ground plan, is that of a Greek cross, having a very large dome 



60 A TENISTESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

arising from the intersection of the nave and transept. There seems 
to be a combination of the several styles of architecture — adopted, 
doubtless, to give the building a modern appearance — but upon the 
whole, the Corinthian and Composite orders seem to prevail. The 
principal entrance or front is extremely noble. It is adorned with a 
rich* and beautiful portico consisting of twelve lofty columns, above 
which are. eight more, ranged in pairs, supporting a triangular pedi- 
ment, the entablature of which represents the conversion of St. Paul, 
executed by Bird, in low relief. On the apex of this pediment is a 
colossal figure of St. Paul, with two of equal size at each end, repre- 
senting St. Peter and St. James ; and along the summit of the front 
are the statues of the four Evangelists. The whole rests on an ele- 
vated base, the ascent to which is formed by twenty-two steps of 
black marble. The angles are surmounted by two elegant turrets 
cf a chaste and uniform character, each terminating in a dome, 
ornamented with a gilt pine-apple ; the north turret contains the 
belfry, the south turret the clock. In front of this magnificent 
portico is a marble statue representing Queen Anne, in the robes of 
state, holding in her hands the emblems of royalty, together with 
figures representing Great Britain, Ireland, France, and America. 
There are two other entrances to each end of the principal transept 
which correspond to the main portico, with the exception of the 
figures of the Apostles — the royal arms and regalia supported by 
angels, and the representation of a phoenix rising from the flames. 
The east end of the building is semi-circular, and is ornamented with 
two rows of pilasters and a variety of fine sculpture. The dome, 
which is upwards of four hundred feet from the pavement below to 
its summit, rises in beautiful and majestic proportion, attracting the 
attention and admiration of every one that beholds it. This dome is 
terminated by a lantern and globe weighing about seven tons, and 
on the top of the whole is placed the emblem of Christian faith. 

Although the external appearance of St. Paul's is very attractive, 
one is utterly unprepared from an outward view to form any adequate 
conception of the effect of the interior. The unexpected loftiness of 
the vaultings, and of the long range of columns and piers which 
meet the vision, produces an effect of wonder and surprise. The 
view upwards into the interior of the dome is extremely striking. 
It is so constructed as to show a spacious concave in every direction, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 61 

and light from the lantern above pours down its illumination with 
beautiful effect upen the whole, as well as the great colonnade that 
encircles its basement. In this rotunda is the Whispering Gallery, 
which you have heard so much about. It derives its name from the 
well-known reverberation of sounds, so that the softest whisper is 
accurately and distinctly conveyed to the ear at the distance of a 
hundred feet, which is the diameter of the dome. The echo is so 
great that the stroke of a carpenter's hammer below produced a 
sound equal to the report of a cannon, or the bursting of a thunder 
cloud. As you ascend the staircase to the whispering gallery, you 
pass near the library, which contains, I suppose, a valuable collec- 
tion of ecclesiastical and evangelical works, but the flooring, consist- 
ing of upwards of two hundred pieces of oak, is pointed out as the 
object most worthy the attention of a casual visitor. The clock-works 
are well deserving the notice of the curious, as they are extraordinary 
in size and quality. From the library you can go to the stone gallery 
which surrounds the exterior dome above the colonnade, and from this 
elevation, when the atmosphere is clear, the view around is very fine. 
As the staircase above this becomes very steep, narrow, and dark, 
not many visitors can be prevailed on to go higher ; and yet there is 
much to repay both the trouble and apprehension attending tne 
ascent. Just before I ascended to the ball a lady from France came 
down in perfect ecstasies, saying in her own tongue, " Oh, whai a 
pretty view of your great city — how charming — what a nice place 
to take the fatal leap !" From the summit of this cathedral the 
stranger can acquire a more correct idea of the geography of London 
and its environs than he could by looking at maps and traversing 
its various streets in cabs and busses for the space of six months. 
Some years ago there appeared an extraordinary Panorama of Lon- 
don from St. Paul's, designed by Home, and executed by Parris, 
which is now being exhibited at the Coliseum in Regent's Park. 
It is a work of superior merit, and well deserving the attention of 
those desirous of obtaining an insight into the intricacies and mys- 
teries of modern Babylon. 

Having given you but an imperfect idea of this magnificent 
cathedral, I now proceed to describe the anniversary meeting of the 
charity children, which I had the extreme pleasure of attending 
recently. 



62 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

In 1782, the assemblage of the children clothed and educated in 
the parochial schools, took place for the first time in St. Paul's, where 
they have since annually been collected, and the effect of such a 
scene as that presented on this occasion could not be surpassed in 
any part of the world. In its way, the exhibition was quite as be- 
wildering to my senses as that of the great Crystal Palace in Hyde 
Park, at present the wonder of the world. The grand spectacle of 
between six and seven thousand children, dispersed on raised plat- 
forms round the gigantic nave of the cathedral, the tiers of benches 
gradually elevated nearly to the top of the columns upon which the 
dome rests, decked out in party colors, with banners to represent the 
various schools from whence they are sent as representatives — the 
boys separated from the girls, and the whole mass arranged with an 
eye to symmetry and pleasing contrast — is easier to look at and ad- 
mire than describe. Add to this a dense and animated assemblage 
of spectators of more than twelve thousand, who filled the vast in- 
terior to its very extremities, while in the background, the great 
organ, with its pendent choir of eighty or a hundred singers, arrayed 
in white surplices, together with drums and trumpets, served to ren- 
der the picture complete, making a coup cfoeil truly magnificent. 
The prayers on this occasion were intoned by the Rev. R. Shutte, 
and the lessons read by the Rev. W. J. Hall. The sermon appro- 
priate to the ceremony and its praiseworthy object was preached by 
the Archbishop of Canterbury ; the text, from Proverbs xix. 2 : 
" That the soul be without knowledge it is not good," was made the 
theme of an eloquent, judicious and impressive discourse on the ad- 
vantages of a liberal education. The singing of the children was of 
course the object of general interest, and the important feature of the 
day. The 100th Psalm, before the prayers, sung by so many thou- 
sand fresh voices with perfect intonation and unison, produced a 
thrilling effect, and on the whole surpassed every thing of the kind 
that I have ever heard. 

After the services had concluded, I met a medical friend from 
Philadelphia, whom I invited to accompany me to Field Lane 
Ragged School, which is of more recent origin than those institutions 
that assembled in St. Paul's. Here we had an opportunity of seeing 
the offspring of the last of creation, the real miseries of London. 
The school-room is situated in that part of the city set apart as the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 63 

abode of poverty, vice, and crime — a fit place for such an institution. 
When we entered the room, the teachers, who are females, were very 
polite in offering us seats, showing the improvement of their little 
ragged pupils, and explaining the objects and manner of conducting 
the institution. I do wish that you had been seated with us in the 
midst of this congregation of poverty-stricken children, varying in 
their age from one to twenty years. I am confident that you would 
agree with us in saying that there is nothing in our glorious land 
half so low, half so pitiable. Englishmen may write, talk, and 
preach what they please about the horrors of our peculiar institu- 
tion ; they may send their abolition emissaries across the water, with 
pockets well filled, to preach a crusade against our liberty and our 
laws ; but they had better consider the deplorable condition of their 
own population, one tenth of which is now supported by charity, and 
whose condition both in a physical and moral point of view is far 
inferior to that of the slave owned by the most cruel of masters. 
Our colored population are provided with every thing calculated to 
render them comfortable, and life happy. They are worked moder- 
ately, clothed comfortably, fed abundantly, and provided for when 
they get old and decrepit — while the poor of this great metropolis 
are devoid of all these blessings. 

My friend being connected with one of the Medical Universities 
of Pennsylvania, and desirous of gaining as much information as 
possible relative to the manner of conducting such establishments in 
London, proposed that we should visit St. Bartholomew's Hospital, 
at which there are a number of students and any quantity of sub- 
jects both living and dead for them to operate upon at their leisure. 
This hospital is the oldest and best in the city ; having been founded 
by Rahere, the minstrel and poet of Henry I., in 1102. It owes 
much to the munificence of Henry VIII., who endowed it at the 
Reformation with an annual revenue, and profits largely at times by 
the liberality of private benefactors. The annual income of this 
hospital averages about £32,000. This establishment is conveniently 
arranged, and cleanliness, returning health, and comfort pervade all 
its apartments. The professors were very polite in conducting us 
through the different rooms, and explaining the symptoms of several 
patients who were singularly affected. I am not a medical man, yet 
I took a great deal of interest in examining the different institutions 



64 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

of this description which add so much to the character of London 
One thing I noticed, and with some pride too, as it is an American 
invention, that chloroform is invariably used in amputations which 
are attended with much pain — a fact not generally known with us, 
who always apprehend danger from its use. 

From St. Bartholomew's Hospital we visited Smithfield Market, 
which is very near. This is considered the greatest market for live 
cattle in the world ; it is situated in the centre of the city, and covers 
an area of six acres and a quarter. Markets have been held here 
from time immemorial, it being mentioned by writers as far back as 
the tenth century, as a place where horses and cattle are sold. It is 
nothing more than a square of unsightly pens, which are filled on 
market days with cattle, sheep, and pigs, besides any quantity of 
trading and swindling speculators, who infest the whole neighbor- 
hood. The citizens have been endeavoring for many years to get 
Parliament to remove this market-place, which is undoubtedly a 
great nuisance, to some point in the suburbs ; but as bills before Par- 
liament are somewhat like their bills in Chancery, they have as yet 
received no encouragement, and the market must continue an eye- 
sore and grievous nuisance to all in its vicinity. At Smithfield we 
concluded that while we were visiting such places we might as well 
go to the well-known market of Billingsgate, about which we read 
so much in Punch, etc. Fish of all kinds in season are on sale here 
daily ; the market opens at five o'clock in the morning and con- 
tinues during the day. I was altogether disappointed in the place ; 
it is a little narrow, filthy, and cramped up affair, where a gentleman 
would dislike exceedingly to venture. But being out sight-seeing, 
I made my way through, much to the amusement of my friend, who 
stood on the outside. As I walked along, the fish-women accosted 
me at every step, pressing me to buy the fish or periwinkles, which 
they sell by the bushel. After I completed the task of wading 
through fish, women, and periwinkles, we went to a place adjoining 
the market called the Three Tuns Tavern, which is a celebrated fish 
ordinary. Here we were furnished with a fish dinner in perfection, 
which, added to the busy scene on the ever moving Terns, induced 
me to forget the market from whence they came and the delicate 
hands that prepared them. But enough of the fish stories. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AM) ASIA. 65 



LETTER TWELVE. 

London, England. 
Westminster Hall — Public Buildings — Monuments — Parks, Streets, and Gardens — Dinner 
and Soiree at the American Minister's — The Duke of Wellington, Lord John Russell, etc. 

It is always natural for one to frequent those places of public 
attraction in which they are most interested, and which pertain to 
their own sphere of life ; consequently, I have found myself day 
after day within the walls of Westminster, attending the proceedings 
of the various courts, and witnessing the administration of justice 
according to the tenets of that jurisprudence which our ancestors 
early adopted, and which we have subsequently aided in improving. 
Before noticing the conduct of the different courts as compared with 
our own, a brief account of this Hall, around which linger so many 
remarkable associations, will not be out of place. It is said to be 
one of the largest rooms in Europe unsupported by pillars, being 
238 feet long, 68 feet broad, and 90 feet high; and has a carved 
roof of chestnut wood, most curiously constructed in the Gothic 
style of architecture. The interior, as well as the stone moulding 
that runs round the Hall, is adorned with angels supporting the 
arms of Edward the Confessor, or those of Richard II. with the hart 
couchant under a tree, and other devices of the latter monarch, 
under whose reign it was used as a banqueting room to the ancient 
palace of Westminster. To give you some idea of the dimensions 
of this Hall, I will quote from history a fact which seems almost in- 
credible, which is, that Richard II. held his Christmas festival here, 
accompanied with all that splendor and magnificence for wmich his 
court was conspicuous ; and that on these occasions, twenty-eight 
oxen, three hundred sheep, and fowls without number w^ere con- 
sumed — requiring two thousand cooks to prepare the feast, which 
was attended by ten thousand guests. 

Since Richard's time the Hall has been used for a variety of 
purposes. Parliament often sat here — Cromwell was inaugurated 
here — the coronation feasts of all the sovereigns were held here ; 
and here likewise have been held various important State trials, 
one of which finds no parallel in the annals of English jurispru- 
dence. I allude to the trial commenced in 1684, in which was 



66 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

presented the extraordinary spectacle of a sovereign defending 
himself before a jury composed of his own subjects — a trial which 
occupied one hundred and thirty days at intervals from the period 
of its commencement. In this Hall the voices of some of the 
greatest men in history have been heard — men whose virtues 
and whose eloquence are now pointed to by teachers as models for 
the rising generation. Here the fierce and withering invective of 
Burke, and the impassioned eloquence of Sheridan and Warren 
Hastings, have been heard and felt, which of itself is sufficient to 
make the place almost sacred. 

The High Court of Chancery is now held in the new House of 
Lords, which I have previously described. The Vice Chancery, 
Exchequer, Queen's Benah, and Common Pleas Courts are held in 
a series of small, close, and disagreeable apartments entering into 
Westminster Hall, which are wholly unsuited for court rooms, being 
too small to accommodate even the members of the bar. In these 
rooms I had an opportunity of listening to the opinions and argu- 
ments of some of the first men in England, on cases of great interest 
and importance to the government as well as individuals. When I 
first entered, my attention was directed to the peculiar manner in 
which the members of the court were dressed, which is so entirely 
at variance with our democratic way of doing things, and at the 
same time so useless, that I was forced to give utterance to my 
thoughts, and smile at what seemed to me the mere trappings of 
monarchy, put on to attract the eyes of the ignorant, who are always 
influenced more by sight than common sense. The judges are re- 
quired, while on the bench, to be clothed in long purple robes, made 
of silk, with capes of the same material covering the shoulders, with 
white cravats and white wigs made of horse hair, or fine wire, 
curled all over the head with the exception of a small place just on 
the top, where there is a patch representing baldness. The mem- 
bers of the bar are required to wear black robes, white cravats, and 
wigs of the same material, but differently shaped and curled, and 
with no patch on the top. This mode of dressing certainly gives to 
the members of the legal profession a very venerable and dignified 
appearance, and is well calculated to create a feeling of reverence 
among the people — particularly those who believe that wisdom 
always lies under gray hairs ; but in this age of progressive democ- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 67 

racy in America, all such trappings would be cast aside as utterly 
useless and anti-utilitarian. In the speeches of those members of 
the bar that I had the pleasure of listening to, I discovered that 
hesitancy and stammering which I noticed in the House of Parlia- 
ment and in the pulpit — which is not only disagreeable to the ear, but 
contrary to all rules laid down by the old masters. Demosthenes 
had the fault, and corrected it by placing pebbles in his mouth and 
practising elocution on the sea-shore — a task that I would recom- 
mend to all those that I have heard to undertake immediately, if 
they desire to become fluent speakers. 

The proceedings of the different courts are conducted with great 
accuracy and precision ; . the decorum is perfect, and the arguments 
of counsel evince a degree of research and study that we do not 
often see in our own country. You will be pleased to know that the 
opinions of some of our jurists are received, and frequently quoted 
in the higher courts as excellent law, and precedence often given 
over the best English authorities. Indeed, I have heard Marshall, 
Story, and Greenleaf quoted by the best lawyers of the London -bar 
quite as often as any of the English writers. In law reform we are 
far ahead of the mother country, and before the lapse of many years 
we will be able to show an improved system of jurisprudence that 
they may well receive and adopt. 

I had intended giving you a description of the Bank of England, 
Custom House, Post Office, Treasury Department, and other public 
buildings, but I have devoted so much space in previous letters to 
descriptions of places of more importance, that I must pass them 
over by merely stating that they are all very large and superior 
buildings, every way suited to their different purposes, and great 
ornaments to the city. 

Next to the public buildings, the monuments and national statues 
of distinguished public characters, which are open to the view of 
every passing traveller, are worthy of notice. Some possess great 
interest from historical associations, others from the excellent work- 
manship which they exhibit, while many are utterly worthless and 
uninteresting. 

The most remarkable monument in the city is called " The Mon- 
ument," to distinguish it from the rest. It was built by Sir Chris- 
topher Wren, at a cost of £-1 3,700, in commemoration of the great 



68 A TENNESSEAN" ABROAD J OR, 

fire of 1666, which destroyed nearly the whole of the city. Next 
to St. Paul's Cathedral it is the most prominent object to the view, 
being a large shaft 202 feet in height, surmounted with a blazing 
urn of gilt brass, which serves as a kind of beacon to guide the steps 
of the stranger while wending his way through the east end. It is 
of the fluted Doric order, with appropriate devices on the pedestal, 
emblematical of that fearful event, which marked an era in the his- 
tory of the great metropolis. On one side is a bas-relief by Cibber, 
representing King Charles, surrounded by Liberty, Genius, and 
Science, giving directions for the restoration of the city; on the 
other side there are Latin inscriptions, descriptive of the destruction 
of the city, and the restoration. Within the column is a spiral 
staircase, of black marble, having three hundred and forty-five steps, 
by which the visitor can gain access to the iron balcony, from which 
a noble prospect is presented to the eye no where else to be seen. 
The wonders of nature are certainly objects of grandeur and sub- 
limity well calculated to arouse the highest inspirations of the poet; 
but from this monumental pile is presented a scene far more inter- 
esting than any thing in nature. Here one looks down upon the 
dwellings of more than two millions of human beings, innumerable 
churches of every Christian denomination, with their spires and tur- 
rets pointing to the skies, seven bridges spanning the ever-flowing 
tide of the Thames, where float the masts of all nations. All these 
objects, and the contemplation of the various pursuits, occupations, 
and conditions of life in this little world, form an ensemble worthy 
of the greatest admiration. 

Next to "The Monument," the Nelson Column in Trafalgar 
Square is most conspicuous as well as imposing. It is of the Co- 
rinthian order, and consists of a tall shaft placed on a square pedes- 
tal, and surmounted by a colossal statue of Nelson, having on its four 
sides bronze bas-reliefs of the hero's four principal engagements, viz., 
St. Vincent, Copenhagen, Nile, and Trafalgar. The design of the 
various figures is good, and the monument is every way worthy to 
commemorate the death of a man who rendered great service to his 
country, both at sea and on land. 

The York Column, in St. James' Park, is also worthy of notice. 
It is a plain Doric structure, surmounted with a bronze statue of the 
Duke of York, representing him in a flowing robe, with a sword in 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 69 

his right hand, and in his left the insignia of the Order of the 
Garter. 

Besides these monuments there are many equestrian statues erected 
at different periods, to commemorate the deeds of public men, and 
among those of a recent date, that erected in honor of the Duke of 
Wellington attracts most attention. Just in front of Apsley House, 
the mansion of the Duke, in Green Park, there is a triumphal arch 
of the Corinthian order, forming an entrance from Piccadilly, and 
also one of the grand approaches to St. James' Park and Bucking- 
ham Palace. It is one of the most conspicuous and elegant struc- 
tures in the city. On the principal front are four columns, support- 
ing a portico, the arch itself being adorned with ivy Corinthian 
pilasters ; the opposite front is nearly similar ; in the centre there is 
a vaulting part, which is divided into richly carved compartments, 
and the gates, which are of beautifully bronzed iron work, are 
adorned with the royal arms. On the summit of this arch is placed 
a colossal bronze statue of the old Duke, which is so striking in its 
resemblance to the original that no man need inquire what it is. 

This statue is situated near three of the most celebrated parks in 
the city, viz., St. James', Green and Hyde Parks ; and from its sum- 
mit you may see in the afternoon all the elegant establishments, fine 
horses, servants in livery, and fashionables, who drive in these favor- 
ite places, to breathe the pure air and enjoy the pleasure of gazing 
and being gazed upon with quizzing glasses, which are regarded 
here as utterly indispensable both with gentlemen and ladies. To 
a stranger who has nothing to occupy his time but sight-seeing, I 
would recommend a visit on a clear afternoon to Rotton Row in 
Hyde Park; and here he will see horsemen of every grade, vehicles 
of every description, and costumes as various as the climes which 
produce them, all together forming a scene of great attraction and 
amusement. The ladies of London are excellent horsewomen, and 
quite equal to our Western girls, although taught in different schools. 
They sit the horse beautifully, and manage the reins with perfect 
ease and grace, without the least exhibition of fear, being entirely 
independent of their beaux, who are, generally speaking, very sorry 
riders. The city of London is celebrated the world over for the 
number, extent, and beauty of its parks, which have very properly 
been termed the " lungs of the city ;" for here the laboring classes, 



TO 

who have no opportunity of seeking recreation in the country, can 
resort after the fatigue of the day, and inhale the pure air, which is 
so essential to health and comfort, and here also the children of the 
poorer classes are permitted to enjoy their sports without interruption. 

In Hyde Park there are very many attractions calculated to in- 
terest the stranger. First and foremost is the Crystal Palace, now 
the great wonder of the world, about which you have been reading 
for the last year, and which continues to be resorted to by increased 
numbers daily. Indeed, it becomes more interesting to me every 
time I visit it, for it is very much like going into a large city with 
innumerable attractions — the longer you stay and the better you be- 
come acquainted with the geography of the place and the position 
of things, the more you appreciate it. New contributions from dif- 
ferent countries are coming in every day, and in the course of a few 
more weeks, the Exhibition will be far more attractive than it was at 
the opening. 

It is now Whitsuntide, and the laboring classes from every part 
of the kingdom are taking advantage of the holidays and the reduc- 
tion of fare on the railroads, to visit the great Exhibition. Every 
train that arrives is filled even to the tops of the carriages with hun- 
dreds of persons who were never before out of sight of the smoke 
of their own chimneys, all eager to see the exhibition of their own 
labor compared with that of other countries. 

From the Crystal Palace flows the Serpentine river, which is much 
resorted to during the summer months for the purpose of bathing. 
Vast numbers of persons assemble here on a Sunday, between the 
hours of two and six, chiefly on the north side from Piccadilly to 
Kensington Garden, where there is a beautiful promenade in view of 
the rich and luxuriant foliage of the trees and shrubbery, forming 
a lovely contrast to the immense pile of brick in the city. On the 
western extremity of the river there is a very elegant stone bridge, 
and also an artificial waterfall, which add much to the beauty of the 
stream. Near the river are two powder magazines ; the great gov- 
ernment store of gunpowder, in which are deposited upwards of one 
million rounds of ball and blank cartridges, ready for immediate 
use. I think a more suitable place might be selected for the dan- 
gerous storehouse than in the midst of a populous city. Not far 
from Hyde Park are the beautiful grounds called Regent's Park, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AJS T D ASIA. 71 

which is one of the most atraetive and agreeable places about Lon- 
don. It contains a variety of objects worthy of attention, such as 
the villas of the nobility and private gentlemen, the Zoological and 
pleasure gardens, winter gardens, and Royal Botanical Gardens ; all 
of which places are pointed out by the citizens as well w T orth the 
stranger's examination. 

From this park leads Regent street, one of the great thorough- 
fares of the city. It is much wider than the generality of streets, 
and is well built up, but falls far short of Broadway in point of ac- 
tivity or elegance. Indeed, I do not believe that any city in the 
world can produce on one street such a large number of elegant es- 
tablishments, and such a scene of activity as are to be witnessed from 
the " buck tower" of the great American metropolis. The streets in 
the east end of London are narrow and tortuous, but well lighted 
and kept perfectly clean. Those in the west end, which are more 
modern, are laid out upon a more liberal scale, and present a more 
inviting appearance than the antique-looking portion of the old city. 
The police regulation is far superior to that of any city in the 
world ; they are selected from the best men in the country, and are 
compelled to go through the same training as soldiers, in order to 
qualify them to discharge the arduous duties of their office with 
promptness and energy. The average strength of the London police 
is about five thousand, who are distributed into eighteen divisions, 
distinguished by different alphabetical letters, each being attached 
to a certain locality or district, in each of which is a station or ren- 
dezvous, from which point the duty is carried out. This admirable 
system was put into operation in 1830 by the late Sir Robert Peel, 
and has proved equal to his expectations in every particular — in a 
word, is perfect. 

I cannot conclude this letter without alluding to a dinner party 
and soiree recently given by the Hon. Abbott Lawrence, at his re- 
sidence in Piccadilly, which is said to have been one of the grand- 
est banquets of the season. The guests at the dinner party were 
but few, consisting of some select friends among the nobility and 
several Americans. After the banquet in the evening, Mrs. Law- 
rence threw open her superb saloons for the reception of visitors, 
and in a few minutes they were occupied by guests from all nations. 
Nearly all the nobility were present, the corps dijylomatique, and 



72 A TENNESSEAK ABROAD , OR, 

many Americans, which constituted an assemblage of rare brilliancy. 
Mr. L. lives in excellent style and entertains well, being blessed with 
the wherewith, and that peculiar gift of nature, the suaviter in modo, 
which makes every one feel comfortable and at home. He is very 
particular in his attention to Americans, (who are very numerous 
at present,) and has acquired a degree of popularity among the no- 
bility that rarely falls to the lot of a foreign minister. Among the 
distinguished guests of the evening was the Duke of Wellington, 
now the greatest man in Europe. He is very old and feeble, but 
yet retains some of that fire that burned so brilliantly in early life. 
He honored the company with his prese.nce the greater part of the 
evening, and seemed to enjoy the society of Americans more than 
that of any other nation. He says that he admires the American 
people, and would visit our country if he were only a few years 
younger. Lord John Russell was also present, but so very small 
that he was not visible in the crowd more than once or twice dur- 
ing the evening. To look at him, you would never suppose that he 
was the Lord Premier of Great Britain, as there is nothing attrac- 
tive either in his conversation or personal appearance. He still 
clings on to the Ministry, but there is no telling how long he will 
be retained. He is indebted to the great Exhibition for his reten- 
tion in office, and it is supposed by the quid nuncs that as things 
fall back in the quiet channel, and the Exhibition fever subsides, a 
new ministry will be formed, and little John required to resign his 
office and its honors. 



LETTER THIRTEEN. 

Chester, England. 

Departure from London — Railways and Stations — Agriculture in the Southern Counties — 
Scenery on the banks of the Wye — Visit to the Hills of Great Malvern — The Cureall 
Establishment — The appearance of Chester, its Antiquity, etc. 

After a sojourn of some four or five weeks in the great metropolis 
of England, each day of which was occupied with some new scene 
of interest, we made our departure on the Great Western Railway, 
on a tour of pleasure to the counties bordering upon Wales. In pre- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 73 

vious letters I have spoken of the magnitude, the population, the 
wealth, and the great importance of London ; but all these descrip- 
tions fail to convey so correct an idea of the real character of the 
place as is furnished by its railway termini — those gates of the 
world, through which enter the produce and representatives of all 
nations. Like those in Liverpool and all other large towns through- 
out England, they are constructed on a scale of magnificence and 
costliness that would utterly astound the advocates of railways in 
our country. To give you some idea of these magnificent structures, 
I will describe the above-named station, which was the first erected 
in London, having been completed in the year 1838, at a cost of 
£125,000. You approach an extensive range of buildings for the 
reception of passengers through a noble propylon, or architectural 
gateway, having four lodges connected with it, intermediate to which, 
and in connection with the whole, are large, lofty, and ornamental 
gates of cast iron. The propylon is a most successful adaptation of 
the Grecian Doric. The extreme length of the entrance is upwards 
of three hundred feet, and the columns are higher than those of any 
other building in London, measuring from the pavement to the top 
of the columns, forty-four feet two inches ; the diameter at the base 
being eight feet six inches. The public hall, general meeting room, 
lost baggage and various other offices, are all very commodious and 
convenient. The walls of this station are in imitation of granite ; 
the ceiling is panelled, deeply recessed, fully enriched, and connected 
with the walls by boldly designed ornamented consoles. Over the 
door of the general meeting room is a sculptured group, represent- 
ing most beautifully Britannia, with Mercury and Science on either 
side. This company, which is interested, either directly or indirect- 
ly, in more than twelve hundred miles of railway, has very fine sta- 
tions at every place of importance, at each of which a certain num- 
ber of officers are constantly stationed to prevent accidents, and see 
that every thing is conducted with order and precision. On all the 
routes they have three classes of carriages, which are constructed 
differently from ours, being divided into three apartments instead of 
having all in one. The seats run entirely across the carriage, and 
face each other. Each apartment is capable of holding eight per- 
sons on the broad gauge, and six on the narrow. The first class 
carriages, which are used only by the nobility and foreigners, are 

4 



74 

exceedingly comfortable, being well cushioned with spring-bottom 
seats. The second class carriages, which are most generally used, 
are precisely like the first with the exception of the cushioned seats. 
Persons going short distances always take this class, as there is a 
very great difference in the fare. The third class are very neat, but 
not very comfortably arranged, and are used only by the lower 
classes. The expense of travel in this country is enormous, far ex- 
ceeding any part of the United States. You can travel from Maine 
to Texas with the same amount of money that it would require to 
convey you through the kingdom of Great Britain. The reason of 
this difference in travel is to be attributed to the great expense of 
building roads in England. With us the right of way is a small 
matter, while here it amounts to millions, and aside from this con- 
sideration, the actual cost of railroads in America is about one third 
of that in this country. 

The Great Western Railway passes through the richest and most 
beautiful agricultural region in England. The farms along the line are 
hedged in with the well-trimmed hawthorn, and are cultivated upon 
principles far better than is to be seen in any other part of the country. 
The crops all look clean and promising, and the stock, which are of 
superior breed to any that I have seen, are well-conditioned, giving 
evidence that things are in a prosperous situation. The houses of 
the peasantry in this part of England are neater, better built, and 
altogether more comfortable than those of the north. Having tra- 
velled on the above named road as far as Gloucester, we took a 
post coach for Chepstow, by way of Monmouth, in order to view 
the scenery on the river Wye, which is described by writers as very 
like the Rhine in point of beauty and romance. It is certainly the 
most beautiful scenery in England, but like all of Nature's works in 
this country, it is on a miniature scale. The most interesting object 
on the Wye is the ruins of Tintern Abbey, which belongs to the 
Duke of Beaufort. It is situated on the edge of a lofty precipice 
overhanging the stream, from the summit of which the visitor can 
view all of South Wales and several counties in England. The ruins 
are covered with ivy, and present a very picturesque appearance. 
The monastery was founded in the year 1131 by Walter de Chase. 
At the dissolution, the site was granted to Henry, second Earl of 
Worcester, ancestor to its present possessor. This county once con- 



75 

stituted part of Wales, but now belongs to England, being one of 
that number lopped off at different periods to gratify the whim or 
caprice of the sovereign. An old Welshman travelling in the coach 
informed me that Wales lost a county every century, a process of 
diminution which must, if it continues, soon efface the distinctive 
features of the Welsh race. From the beautiful banks of the Wye, 
we continued our journey to the Hills of Great Malvern, in Worces- 
tershire, a place recently rendered celebrated throughout England 
on account of the marvellous cures said to have been effected by Dr. 
Wilson, the great leader among the advocates of the Hydropathic 
system. The object of our visit was to see an American friend who 
is in delicate health, and is now undergoing the various processes of 
wrapping in wet sheets, steaming, dieting, exercising, and bathing. 
He told me that he thought he had improved very much since he 
had commenced the treatment, and in fact looks much better ; but I 
think it is to be attributed more to the regular exercise and diet, 
breathing pure air, and drinking pure water, than the system of ablu- 
tions that they are required to go through. There are a great num- 
ber of invalids at this place from different countries, and among them 
several of our own countrymen who have been persuaded that hy- 
dropathy will cure any and all diseases. Bathing is undoubtedly 
greatly conducive to health, and should be practised by every one, 
but there is a medium in all things. The idea of wrapping people up 
in wet sheets and blankets like mummies, steaming them almost to 
suffocation, and then plunging them into cold water, seems to me to 
be an absurdity, and contrary to all reason. Like Mesmerism, it is 
necessary for the patient to have faith in order to effect a cure. 
Faith works wonders ; it makes a man sometimes believe that black 
is white — converts the vilest sinner into a Christian, and will ulti- 
mately revolutionize the world. 

From Great Malvern we came to this place, which is the oldest 
and most curious city in England. It is situated on a rocky emi- 
nence, and surrounded by the ancient walls, built while a Roman 
station, forming a delightful promenade, and commanding fine views 
of the river Dee, and the neighboring scenery. The houses are con- 
structed in a very singular manner, being excavated from the rock 
to the depth of one story beneath the level of the ground on each 
side, and having porticoes running along the front, affording a cov- 



76 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

ered walk to pedestrians, and beneath them are shops and ware- 
houses on a level with the streets. The castle, which is now used 
for barracks, and the old cathedral, are the most interesting build- 
ings in the city. The former was erected during the reign of Wil- 
liam the Conqueror, and the latter was the church of the dissolved 
abbey of St. Warburgh. Chester is the place where Edward of 
Caernarvon received the submission of the Welsh in 1300. It was 
besieged and taken by the parliamentary forces in 1645. 

About three miles from Chester, on the banks of the river Dee, is 
Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Westminster. It is a superb 
mansion, rebuilt in the Gothic style, and is fitted up in great splen- 
dor. Among the paintings in the gallery I observed two by West, 
which are regarded by judges as very superior. One represents 
Cromwell dissolving the Parliament, and the other the landing of 
Charles II. Next to Chatsworth, the seat of the Duke of Devon- 
shire, Eaton Hall may be regarded as the most magnificent and de- 
sirable country residence in England. 



LETTER FOURTEEN. 

Menai Strait, near Britannia Bridge, "Wales. 

Tour through North Wales — Vale of Llangollen — Capel Cerrey — Vale of Llanberis — Snow- 
don — Slate Mines — Character of the Country and People — Tubular and Suspension 
Bridges — Isle of Anglesey — Marquis of Anglesey's Column, &c. 

After passing through the densely populated cities and highly 
cultivated farms which greet the eye on every side in Old England, 
one experinces pleasures altogether different as he approaches the 
mountainous region of North Wales. Here he is, comparatively, in 
a wild country, surrounded by lofty cliffs, deep ravines, and uninter- 
rupted silence, save only the occasional bleating of the mountain 
lamb, and the echo of the miner's hammer in the far-off hills. The 
transition being so sudden, and so great, it is almost impossible to 
realize that you are in a country governed by the same laws, and ac- 
knowledging the same sovereign authority. The face of nature, the 
character of the people, their habitations and their language, are as 



AND ASIA. 77 

different as you can well imagine, and you would never dream of 
being in Britain's realm were it not for the gaudy livery of her 
Majesty's mail-carriers, and the occasional mention of the name of 
the young Prince of Wales. 

Leaving the railroad near the little town of Llangollen, we passed 
through a beautiful vale of the same name, in which are to be seen 
many romantic views, and places of picturesque beauty. Among 
the places of interest on the roadside are yet to be seen the remains 
of Valle Cruces Abbey, founded in 1200. They are covered with 
ivy, and shaded by lofty ash trees, and near the ruins is Ellisey's 
Pillar, erected by Conceres to perpetuate the memory of his ances- 
tor Ellisey, who was killed fighting against the Saxons, in 607. 

The only mode of public travel through this portion of Wales is 
by post coach, which compels tourists who desire to examine parti- 
cular places, either to lie over a stage, or procure a private convey- 
ance, in which he can travel at his leisure. Preferring this mode, 
we left the little town of Cowen, and proceeded to Cape Cerrey, a ro- 
mantic place near several lakes much resorted to by anglers, as they 
abound with trout, grayling, and salmon. Here we found an excel- 
lent inn, which was not only " licensed to sell ale, porter, and spirit- 
uous liquors to be drunk on the premises," but allowed the guests of 
the house the extraordinary privilege of trying their luck with the 
hook and line in the waters of the placid lakes. Being no fisher- 
man, either by nature or acquirement, I abandoned the idea of watch- 
ing the floating cork, and allowed myself to be conveyed by the dul- 
cet tones of a harp, touched by the hands of a blind Welshman, 
into the land of dreams and sweet repose. 

On the following morning we made an early start for the Vale of 
Llanberis, which presents by far the most beautiful scenery to be seen 
in North Wales. On one side, the lofty and majestic peaks of Snow- 
don rear themselves nearly four thousand feet above the level of the 
sea, furnishing a panorama of natural beauty which fully compen- 
sates the tourist for the fatigue and annoyance which he must neces- 
sarily undergo in his ascent upon a miserable donkey, about the size 
of a large goat, which is urged along the rugged pathway by the 
constant pelting and hideous shouts of the guide, who is always close 
at hand, holding on to the tail of the poor animal. At the foot of 
the mountain are the remains of Dolbardern Castle, covered over 



78 

with ivy and roses, and presenting a view of the lake and snow-clad 
hills around that is really enchanting. Just opposite this old castle 
there is the most extensive slate mine in the whole country, which 
furnishes London and the greater part of the kingdom with materials 
for building and covering houses. The proprietors have recently 
constructed a railroad from the mines to Menai Straits which is kept 
in constant employment in the conveyance of slate which is trans- 
ported in vessels to every port almost in the nation. 

Wales is not an agricultural country, but depends chiefly upon 
raising sheep, and its mineral resources, both of which are exceed- 
ingly profitable, being in constant demand, and giving employment 
to nearly the entire population. The people of Wales are naturally 
industrious and frugal, and although few of them can be called rich, 
they are generally independent, relying exclusively upon their own 
labor for support. The houses of the peasantry in this country are 
more substantial and comfortable than you find in England, being 
built entirely with slate-stone, and covered either with the same ma- 
terial or wheat straw. They have no floors but the hard clay, and 
no chimney save a small aperture in the roof, through which the 
smoke from the peat fires gradually finds its way out after smoking 
the inmates almost to suffocation. But around a Welshman's house 
everything is kept pretty clean and healthful ; here no poverty or 
beggary meets the stranger's eyes, but on the contrary every one 
seems to be blessed with plenty and contentment. 

After enjoying the beautiful scenery in the Yale of Llanberis, we 
hastened to Menai Straits being impatient to gaze on the Britannia 
Bridge, the pride of England, the wonder of the age, and the great- 
est achievement in engineering that the world ever saw. The pen 
and pencil of gifted writers who are familiar with the science of en- 
gineering have frequently been employed to delineate this stupen- 
dous undertaking — this masterpiece of human skill ; and whatever 
difference of taste or opinion may have prevailed in determining the 
character of the various sketches, all have been unanimous in their 
admiration of the intellect which could plan, and the skill which 
could erect such magnificent and astonishing structures, contrasted 
with which, in a scientific point of view, all other works of the kind, 
both in ancient and modern times, sink into comparative insignifi- 
cance. No description of ours can give to the man of science, or 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 79 

general reader, an adequate idea of the magnitude and grandeur of 
the work, for it is a subject which none but a mechanical genius, fa- 
miliar with the principles upon which the mighty fabric is based, is 
capable of describing; and all that we can hope is, to give you 
some general idea of the Tubular Bridge, as it appeared to us. You 
are aware that it had its origin from the peculiar difficulties to be 
encountered and overcome in carrying the Chester and Holyhead 
Railroad over that great arm of the sea, known as the Menai Strait. 
Originally it was intended to appropriate one side of Telford's cele- 
brated suspension bridge, which, with its light and beautiful tracery, 
spans the strait about a mile below the site of its massive successor; 
but it soon became evident that so light a fabric would not answer 
for heavy trains ; that the line could never be considered com- 
plete, or commensurate with the requirements of the public, unless 
carried by a rigid instead of a flexible structure over the stream. 
Various plans were suggested by Mr. Stephenson, the engineer-in- 
chief, but they met strenuous opposition in Parliament, and were dis- 
missed on the ground that they would interfere injuriously with the 
navigation, which was more to be regarded than all railroad com- 
munications. Some new experiment of engineering was therefore 
required, and an engineer bold and skilful enough to conceive such 
an expedient, and to apply it. That engineer was found in Mr. Ste- 
phenson, who, having matured the plan in his own mind, made all 
calculations, and being fully satisfied as to the perfect feasibility of 
the work, presented it to the Committee of the House of Commons, 
for their consideration. When this description of bridge was ex- 
plained to the members of the committee, the plan was received 
with general incredulity. The engineer, however, was satisfied that 
the thing was practicable, and determined not to give it up. A bill 
was ultimately obtained, and the gigantic undertaking was com- 
menced and completed in the year 1849. 

An immense tube, upwards of sixteen hundred tons in weight, 
suspended in the air, and through which railway trains should pass, 
was a magnificent conception, and now that it has been successfully 
tried and found to answer every purpose in furnishing adequate 
means of communication for the great mercantile transport between 
London and Dublin, it gives a character to its projectors as endur- 
ing as the work itself. The bridge consists of hollow rectangular 



80 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

tubes, sustained in their position by no other power than that which 
they derive from the strength of their materials and the manner in 
which they are constructed. They are made of plates of wrought 
iron from one half to three fourths of an inch in thickness, firmly 
riveted together so as to form a single and continuous structure, one 
tube (or connected series of tubes) serving for the passage of the up, 
and the other of the down train. The total length of each line of 
tube is said to be 1513 feet, which is formed by the union of four 
separate lengths of tubes, two of longer and two of shorter dimen- 
sions. The two main lengths of tube, each measuring 4*72 feet, pass 
from the tower constructed of solid masonry at high tide, on the 
Caernarvon and Anglesey shores, to the central tower raised in the 
middle of the strait, to the height of 210 feet, and based on a rock 
formerly covered by high water. The shorter portions of tubes con- 
nect the land towers on either side with the abutments which ter- 
minate the embankment, upon which the line of railway is carried, 
and by which the shores of the strait are approached. These tubes, 
formed entirely of wrought iron, were constructed on the Caernar- 
von shore, and afterwards floated by means of pontoons and raised 
to the required elevation by the use of powerful hydraulic presses. 
There are three towers attached to this bridge, which were run up 
and built around the tubes after they had been elevated to the 
height of one hundred feet above the water. The sides of these 
stupendous masses of masonry are tapered with a straight batter, 
by which the size of the upper part is reduced, and greater firmness 
given to the mass, with a corresponding boldness in the character 
of the design. These vast monuments rising up from the depths of 
the sea are equally as curious and wonderful as the tubes them- 
selves. To give you some idea of the magnitude of these structures, 
I will describe the dimensions of the Britannia tower, which stands 
in the centre of the strait. It weighs about 20,000 tons ; it is 62 
feet by 52 feet 5 inches at the base, and 55 feet by 45 feet 5 inches 
at tube level. Its height from high water is 199 feet, and its total 
height is 221 feet 8 inches, which is far above the topsail of the 
largest vessel. The amount of stone contained in this stupendous 
work is said to be no less than 1,500,000 cubic feet. At the termi- 
nation of the abutments on the land ends there are four colossal sta- 
tues of lions, executed in the Egyptian style. The appearance of 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 81 

these enormous statues, lifting their limestone foreheads in the face 
of every train, defying the tempest and the storm, and guarding as 
it were the entrance to these caverns of wonder, show conclusively 
to the stranger that the Britannia bridge is the pride of the w 7 hole 
nation. 

Policemen are always stationed at the bridge to regulate the 
trains, and conduct visitors through the tubes, a duty which they 
perform very faithfully, considering they are not allowed to receive 
any compensation from the thousands of people that flock there 
daily to see it. After being conducted through one of the tubes, 
the visitor can, if he chooses, return on the top of the bridge, which 
is reached by means of lofty stone steps in the interior of the tower 
on either side. The roof is nearly flat and covered with prepared 
canvas — making it perfectly safe as a place of promenade. The 
prospect from the towers is truly magnificent. Standing on their 
summit, you find yourself surrounded with a scenery of great diver- 
sity and picturesque beauty, forming at once a panorama of gor- 
geous sublimity. On one side the Isle of Anglesey, with its highly 
cultivated fields and green meadows, extends in rolling beauty be- 
fore the eye ; while on the other, the horizon appears bounded or 
rather fortified by that large range of mountains, about forty miles 
in length, which bears the name of Snowdonian mountains, and 
among which extends the lofty patriarch of the group, described in 
the beginning of this letter. On the east and west are to be seen 
glittering in large masses the Irish Sea and St. George's Channel, 
connected together by the narrow strait, whose silvery course, me- 
andering in the chasm beneath, is dotted here and there with the 
spreading sail and little islands, ornamented with the humble yet 
beautiful cottage of the fisherman. About a mile below the great 
tubular bridge there gracefully hangs across the stream in a festoon, 
which in the annals of science will ever encircle the name of Tel- 
ford, his celebrated suspension bridge. And not far off the eye of 
the visitor will wander instinctively to a lofty monument standing 
on the summit of a rocky eminence on the Isle of Anglesey, erected 
by the people to commemorate the military services of their coun- 
tryman William Henry, Marquis of Anglesey. In fine, the scene 
from this bridge is grand and romantic, presenting to the eye at 
one glance the wonders of science and the beauties of nature. 

4* 



82 A Tennessee abroad; or, 



LETTER FIFTEEN. 

Victoria Hotel, Lakes of Killarney, Ireland. 
Tour through the South of Ireland— Cork Harbor— Cork— Blarney Castle— Nature of the 
Country and Condition of the People— Lakes of Killarney, etc. 

The introduction of steam has done more to unite the interests 
and harmonize the intercourse of nations than all the legislative 
acts or governmental policies that were ever created by human in- 
genuity. The time was, within the memory of men now living, 
when a trip across the Irish channel was considered about as great 
an undertaking as a voyage at the present day to our Eldorado on 
the Pacific — when a people living under the same laws, and ac- 
knowledging the same sovereign authority, knew less of each 
other than they do now of their brethren who people the shores of 
America. But in this age of enlightenment and improvement in 
steam navigation, a trip from Holyhead to Dublin, or the city of 
Cork, is regarded as a mere pleasure excursion ; and the facilities 
for traversing the Island from one extremity to the other by railroad 
are so admirable, that the toil of travel is just sufficient to enhance 
the pleasure and brace the frame — acting on the blood like PaVs 
potheen, and sharpening the appetite for a good mess of his bafad 
potatoes. There is no country on this side of the water so interesting 
to an American tourist as old Erin's Isle. Between the two people 
there exists an identity of sentiment, consanguinity, affinity, sympa- 
thy, and mutual love, no where else to be seen. Many" of our best 
citizens emigrated hence — some of whom have rendered signal 
service to the country both in the field and in our council chambers, 
and whose names are now intimately blended with the history of 
the mighty West. In return we have done much for Ireland. On 
our hospitable shores her people have found a refuge and asylum 
from oppression and misrule. And during the prevalence of the 
famine which threatened destruction to her peasantry, we opened 
our coffers with a liberal hand, and emptied our granaries without 
money and without price into her seaboard towns, saving thousands 
upon thousands from the most horrid of all deaths — starvation. 
Wishing to see the country in all its parts, and form my own es- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 83 

timate of the real character of the lands and condition of the people, 
I concluded to visit the south first, by way of Cork, and then make 
my tour by land to the northern counties. The steamers that run 
between Holyhead and Cork are of the most substantial character, 
but not very comfortably arranged for the accommodation of cabin 
passengers — particularly those accustomed to travel on the floating 
palaces of the great Mississippi. Very few persons visit this part of 
Ireland except on business, and consequently owners of boats have 
paid but little attention to style or convenience. But one can afford 
to put up with these things occasionally, when he has in contempla- 
tion a treat in the way of beautiful scenery, which has given so 
much celebrity to the harbor at Cork. When our boat entered the 
land-locked bay, a panorama of surpassing beauty was presented to 
our view. The neat little town of Cove (now called Queens town, 
in commemoration of a visit from the Queen) first meets the eye, 
with its environs rising terrace above terrace abruptly from the clear 
waters below, embracing the picturesque beauty of the lofty hills 
which overhang the spacious basin of the inner harbor. As we 
glided along the placid waters, our attention was drawn to the beau- 
tiful outline of the coast, the bright headlands, and sweet islands 
arouud which were numerous vessels of various sizes, some reposing 
at anchor, and some with their white sails spread to the sun, skim- 
ming along like things of life. Several of these islands are filled 
with public works. Haulboline has its dock-yard and naval stores, 
and Spike Island its battery and barracks, beyond which we could 
trace with the eye the shore sweeping in a magnificent curve, and 
dotted with smiling villas, till narrowing at either side, the basin is 
guarded by Carlisle fort on the left, and that of Camden on the op- 
posite headland. We now entered the windings of the river Lee, 
whose scenery is still more beautiful. Its banks are filled with 
summer residences, bathing eastablishments, and monuments of past 
ages. The ruins of the old castle on the left bank still remain, and 
is pointed out by Pat as the place where William Penn, the broad- 
brimmed founder of the Keystone State, embarked for the new 
world — a tradition of doubtful character, as several places lay claim 
to the same honor. Just opposite the castle, on a lofty eminence, 
is a monument recently erected by a wealthy tailor of Cork, in honor 
of Father Mathew and the Temperance cause. It is a plain and un- 



84 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

obtrusive structure, but serves to show the high repute in which the 
great Apostle of Temperance is held in his native town. Beyond this 
we had a fine view of the city, the quays, and the beautiful hills around, 
which present in the distance a prospect of rare beauty, soon, how- 
ever, to be dispelled by an utter disgust for the place and every 
thing about it. The city is built on low marshy ground, as its 
ancient name, Coreagh, imports. The streets are irregular in char- 
acter, and the houses are mostly in a dilapidated condition, showing 
conclusively that it is fast going to decay. The poor-houses are 
filled to overflowing, and the streets from morning until night are 
literally blocked up with a variegated mass of squalid humanity that 
sways and surges around the stranger on every side, pulling his gar- 
ments, thrusting their hands into his face, and filling his ears with 
all the discordant sounds of blatant mendicancy, ranging through 
the whole diapason of beggars' oratory, from the shrill squeak of the 
pinched infant in the arms of the snivelling beldame, 16 the unmanly 
whine of some stalwart vagabond who puts the soft pedal upon his 
strong lungs and gives utterance to the oft repeated song, "Your hon- 
or, for God's sake give us a penny to buy something to eat." This des- 
titution and misery is not confined to the city of Cork alone ; it 
extends in a greater or less degree over the whole country, but more 
particularly in the south and west, where the Celtic race predomi- 
nates. Wherever we went evidences of decay, poverty, and distress 
were visible, not only in the habitations, but in the appearance of the 
people, many of whom are utterly destitute of the necessaries of life. 
In the bog lands the condition of the peasantry is really deplorable, 
and no one who has not witnessed it can possibly conceive their 
manner of living, or realize that they are beings like ourselves, sub- 
ject to the same diseases and possessing the same wants. To convey 
to you some idea of the real state of things in this portion of Ireland, 
I will describe a hovel on the roadside that was pointed out by the 
coach guard as the habitation of a very large family. Being curious 
to see life in all its various phases, I descended from the coach and 
entered a narrow aperture serving as a doorway into a miserable 
place about the size of a Tennessee pig sty, and quite as cleanly. 
Here a scene was presented that I hope never to see again — a widow 
with ten small children, hovering around a peat fire, without gar- 
ments to protect them from the weather, or food to sustain their 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 85 

physical wants. Their little home had no floor or bed, save a small 
heap of straw in one corner, and their only dependence for bread 
was upon the liberality of those who chanced to pass by the door- 
way. This is not an isolated case, but only the picture of many 
others of the same sort. 

Various causes are assigned for the poverty of the country : some 
say, it is owing to the failure in the potato crop ; others, to bad leg- 
islation, and monopoly of the lands by absentees; and not a few 
contend that it is to be attributed to the influence of Catholicism. 
But the real cause in my opinion, as far as I had an opportunity of 
judging, is the bad system of agriculture, which has a tendency to 
exhaust the lands and render them unfit for tillage. Thousands of 
acres have been abandoned in the last few years, as utterly worthless, 
and the population have emigrated to foreign parts, leaving whole 
counties almost in a state of nature. The lands in this portion of 
Ireland were originally superior to any in the kingdom, but are 
now valueless ; while the farms of England and Scotland yield 
abundantly. Let them change their present system, and enrich their 
farms with manure or compost, and a delightful result will follow. 
But there is no hope of such a change soon ; the people are disheart- 
ened and tired of the country ; emigration to America is the subject 
of their thoughts by day and dreams by night. Every one that 
can raise a few pounds, immediately sets sail for the new world, 
which is regarded here as the promised land for the oppressed of all 
nations. According to the census just taken by authority of the 
government, it is estimated that the diminution of the population of 
Ireland in the last three years exceeds two millions, and is rapidly 
on the increase. Most of these emigrants go to the United States, 
many of whom make industrious and respectable citizens, while 
others remain in their original condition. 

Having given you some idea of the ancient city of Cork, I will 
now describe two places Irishmen always go into ecstasies about, 
viz., Blarney and Killarney. The former is renowned in history for 
its beautiful groves and the fine stronghold of the McCarthys in 
olden times. Much of the ancient buildings have disappeared, but 
the donjon keep and lofty tower still stand a princely monument of 
departed glory. Our guide was a joyous old dame, weighing some- 
thing less than two hundred pounds ; and had evidently kissed the 



86 A TEOTESSEAN ABROAD ; OB, 

famous stone so often that she believed fully in all its magic proper- 
ties ; at least she was willing to impress us with the belief, in order 
to make her fee as large as possible. After some persuasion we 
agreed with the old lady, that we should not think of leaving the 
castle without seeing at least the stone that imparts to those who 
kiss it such rare power, and we accordingly mounted the flight of 
steps that lead to the summit of the northeast angle, when she 
pointed out a stone bearing the date of 1703, and worn by the lips 
of thousands who have visited it as sleek as a new silk hat. Happy 
is he whose lips touch it, if there be any truth in legends, or the old 
woman's story, and what traveller will gainsay them ? Had De- 
mosthenes kissed the Blarney stone, instead of filling his mouth with 
pebbles, his eloquence would have been all the sweeter, though not 
a whit less passionate. Scott, Lockhart, and Maria Edge worth, have 
all tried its virtues ; and who will not confess the source from 
whence Father Prout drew all his inspiration ? From the summit 
of this old ruin we had a beautiful survey of the little river called 
Comane, and the lake surrounded by a graceful fringe of trees, with 
paths and grottoes for the accommodation of those who desire to 
visit the famous castle. 

A few hours' ride by rail and post coach brought us from the 
castle to the lakes of Killarney, which are much resorted to in 
summer by travellers who are fond of enjoying the beauties of nature. 
The lakes are three in number, and all connected with each other, 
forming a bed or basin between the lofty hills, deep, sinuous, and 
gorgy, preesenting every variety of feature of land and water scene- 
ry. Writers have compared them to the lakes in Scotland and 
Switzerland, which surpass them in sublimity, though not in the 
beauties of softer scenery. To an American, accustomed to the 
broad expanse of our northern lakes, Killarney seems in miniature, 
and he feels as if he were looking at the soft beauties of nature on a 
very small scale. The hotels on the shore are very comfortable, and 
the traveller has every inducement to come here, in the way of good 
living and exquisite scenery. But there is one great objection to this 
place; you cannot enjoy any thing in quietude for the beggars, who 
harass the stranger wherever he goes, rendering his visit to Killar- 
ney a source of vexation and disagreeability instead of enjoyment. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 87 



LETTER SIXTEEN. 

Dublin, Ireland. 
Appearance of the City — Poor-Houseo — Police — Parks and Monuments — O'Connell's 
Vault — Railway to Galway and Line of Steamers to the United States. 

Next to London, this city may be regarded as the largest and most 
important in the kingdom, being beautifully situated near a bay of 
the same name, which always affords a safe and commodious harbor 
for vessels of the largest capacity. The Anna Liffy flows through 
its centre, furnishing water sufficient to accommodate boats of light 
draught, and acting as a kind of drain, carrying off the tilth of the 
city. Over this stream are seven substantial bridges connecting the 
main streets, which were built at different periods, and consequently 
present various styles of architecture according to the improvements 
of the age. 

The time has been when this city was regarded by strangers as 
a place of great beauty and attraction, but through some cause or 
other it has gone down in the last few years, and now presents the 
appearance of neglect and dilapidation. The public buildings, some 
of which are very large and elegant, are kept in good repair, and 
several of the principal thoroughfares still retain their ancient im- 
portance ; but the great majority of the streets and private houses 
show conclusively that the blight visible in every part of the south and 
west has had its desolating influence upon the metropolis of Ireland. 
You will be surprised to learn that the poor-houses in this city are 
pointed out to the stranger as among the most interesting and 
worthy objects of his notice. What we would keep in the back- 
ground is here placed in the foreground, and the officers take almost 
as much pride in explaining the operations of the institution, and 
hearing the comments of visitors, as an American would in relating 
the battles of his country. They are certainly very laudable under- 
takings, that reflect credit upon the government. They are con- 
ducted upon principles of a superior nature — dispense much good, 
and relieve many who are in misery ; yet they fail to meet the de- 
mands of the public. Thousands and thousands of poor creatures 
who are compelled to live from hand to mouth — not knowing to- 



88 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

day where the morrow's meal is to come from — would be glad to 
receive shelter from the pitiless storm in these asylums of charity ; 
but they are turned from the doors daily, for want of room, and are 
compelled to seek their living by begging in the streets. The city 
authorities have made every endeavor to prevent this mode of ob- 
taining subsistence, by adopting a strict police regulation, which has 
thus far proved utterly useless, from the fact that the people cannot 
procure labor whereby to gain the necessaries of life, and they can- 
not compel a man to starve. 

The police of Ireland is better, probably, than that of England, 
being composed of the first young men in the country, and required 
to undergo a thorough drilling before they are received or allowed 
to enter upon the regular duties of their office. The government 
owes much to this body of men, who are stationed in every neigh- 
borhood, for the preservation of peace and quietude. Were it not 
for their efficiency and promptness in quelling riots and keeping the 
masses in subjection, Ireland would soon be the scene of another 
revolution. During my stay here I have witnessed several reviews 
of the constabulary and military in the Phoenix Park, a place of 
great natural beauty, and much adorned with gravel walks and a 
large granite monument in the centre, called the Wellington Testi- 
monial. On these occasions the visitor has an opportunity of wit- 
nessing the largest, best drilled, and most efficient corps of men in 
the kingdom. It is certainly a beautiful sight to stand on some 
eminence and watch this large body of men go through the various 
evolutions of military tactics with so much precision and grace ; but 
when one reflects upon its utility, and considers the enormity of 
taxation laid upon the people to keep up an idle soldiery, he loses 
all interest in the dazzling display, and becomes utterly disgusted 
with monarchies and every thing connected with them. 

The public monuments in this city are well deserving our notice, 
as they all commemorate some historical event, or great man's char- 
acter. Next to the Wellington Testimonal in Phoenix Park, there 
is a tall shaft rising from the centre of Sackville street, to the height 
of about two hundred feet, which is called the Nelson Monument. 
It is a very substantial structure, and contains some ingenious carv- 
ing representing the four great battles in which Nelson figured, and 
about which Englishmen can talk for ever. The most interesting 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 89 

testimonial of this character, to me, was a vault in the Catholic 
Cemetery near the city, which contains the remains of the celebra- 
ted Daniel O'Connell, a man who occupied a high position in the 
affairs of state, and whose memory is now embalmed in the heart 
of every true Catholic. The vault is built of plain stone above the 
ground, with a heavy iron door, upon which is inscribed simply the 
name of O'Connell, which contains more than any epitaph that could 
be written. In fair weather this door is kept open, and the splendid 
coffin, covered with crimson velvet and gold plates, can be seen by 
all who are curious to gaze upon it. While we were standing at 
the door, several females came up with baskets filled with flowers, 
which they scattered over the vault with great care, uttering at the 
same time something inaudible, which we took to be prayers for the 
salvation of the departed. 

Duing the last few weeks an unusual degree of excitement has 
been created by the commercial men of this city relative to the pros- 
pect of establishing a line of steamers between New-York and the 
town of Galway on the western shore of Ireland. Every prepara- 
tion was made to receive the passengers that were expected to come 
over in the North America, which had engaged to make the trial 
trip. The citizens of Galway enlarged their public houses — made 
arrangements for a grand entertainment and tournament. The rail- 
road company fitted up their cars expressly to convey the passen- 
gers directly through to this city, and the success of the undertaking 
was regarded as absolutely certain — when the news came that the 
owners of the steamer had abandoned the idea. I think that if they 
succeed in establishing this line, the voyage between the two coun- 
tries may be shortened at least two days, and the dangers of the 
Irish Channel avoided ; but there is no such prospect at present. 
Liverpool has monopolized the trade too long, and the influence of 
her commercial men is so great that it will be utterly impossible to 
change or establish a new line. 



90 



LETTER SEVENTEEN. 

Londonderry, Ireland. 
Difference between the Northern and Southern parts of Ireland — Belfast — Scenery on the 
Coast — Giant's Causeway — Death of a young Scotchman — Wreck of an American Vessel 
— Irish Hospitality — Londonderry — The River Foyle, etc. 

After a tour through the southern counties of Ireland, where deso- 
lation and want meet the view on every side, one feels, as he passes 
along the highly cultivated fields of the north, as if he were trans- 
ported into another land, among a different race of people. Here 
there is comparatively no beggary or misery ; the lands are better 
cultivated, the houses of the peasantry more comfortable, and the 
towns present a more thrifty and business-like appearance. The 
question naturally suggests itself to the mind as to the causes of so 
great a change in the same country, and the only answer that can 
be given, is the difference in the character of the people. Those 
that inhabit this section of Ireland are descended principally from 
the Scotch, and have inherited to a considerable degree their habits 
of industry and frugality ; while on the other hand the descendants 
of the Celtic race are by nature less provident, and consequently not 
so prosperous. 

The city of Belfast is the largest and most beautiful place in 
North Ireland, and is connected by rail with Dublin and the interior 
counties, making it a place of considerable importance in a com- 
mercial point of view, aside from its extensive interest in linen man- 
ufactures. It is rather a singular sight as you approach the city, to 
see large fields covered over with immense quantities of linen put 
out to bleach, giving them in the distance the appearance of a 
winter scene after a heavy fall of snow. The linens of Belfast are 
regarded as the best in the world, and constitute the principal ar- 
ticle of their merchandise. The streets are wide, built up with great 
regularity, and kept perfectly clean and decent, w T hich is a little 
more than can be said of most cities. The docks are extensive, and 
always present a scene of activity which is far more interesting to a 
man who lives in a progressive country than the dull monotony of 
inertness every where visible in the south and west. 



RICA, AND ASIA. 91 

Near the docks there is a large archway about one hundred feet 
in height, which was erected two years ago to receive Victoria, when 
she honored Pat with a visit. It is constructed of wood, and con- 
stitutes one of the most prominent objects in the city. On one side 
is inscribed in letters of living light, "God save the Queen," and on 
the other, in the Irish language, "One hundred thousand welcomes 
to you." The Queen's reception is said to have been warmer here 
than at any other place she visited during the tour — a demonstration 
of loyalty that gratified her beyond measure, as it was wholly unex- 
pected. She returned to Buckingham Palace highly pleased with 
her Irish subjects, and expressed the opinion that they were a better 
people than the world gave them credit for. 

Leaving Belfast, we passed along the sea-shore in an Irish jaunting 
car, to the Giant's Causeway, which is a pleasant day's drive over a 
beautiful road, and through scenery of great singularity and wild- 
ness. The Causeway is regarded here as one of the wonders of the 
world, and is resorted to by thousands every week during the sum- 
mer months, who are curious to behold and admire the works of 
nature. After enjoying a good dinner at the Causeway House, and 
getting rid of the swarm of specimen venders that infest the whole 
neighborhood, we proceeded quietly with our guide down a narrow 
pathway to the sea-shore, where we were shown for the first time 
this great phenomenon. Like almost every one that goes there, we 
were at first sadly disappointed — having actually stood upon the 
rocks without being aware of it — inquiring of our guide all the 
while, "Where is the Causeway?" But this disappointment was 
not of long duration, for when we came to examine into its form- 
ation and singularity, we felt fully compensated for our trouble. It 
consists of a series of stone columns extending several hundred yards 
into the sea, with a gradual descent forming an inclined plane. Each 
block is about one foot in diameter, and varies in length from three 
to six feet, fitting into each other with as much nicety and precision 
as if it were done with the hand of art. No two of these columns 
are alike in shape ; some are hexagons, some heptagons, and others 
octagons, and every other conceivable formation. The beauty of 
the Causeway has been very much impaired of late years by the re- 
moval of the most curious blocks to different parts of the world as 
specimens for exhibition. You will find them in London, Paris, 



92 A TEJSTNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

and even in Philadelphia — and, as a matter of course, in Barnum's 
Museum. 

After viewing the Causeway to our satisfaction, we consented to 
be rowed in a small boat by four sturdy Irishmen into the caves, 
more in conformity with custom than any pleasure we expected to 
derive, for we were pretty well convinced before starting that they 
were humbugs, exaggerated in order to squeeze a few more shillings 
out of the visitor's pocket. They repaid us, however, by rowing the 
boat out into the sea, from which we had a beautiful view of the 
lofty heights formed of a succession of columns, and extending for 
miles beyond as far as the eye can reach. Our guide was par- 
ticularly loquacious, and grew quite eloquent in his description of the 
attack made by the Spanish Armada upon one of the heights, which 
they battered down in the night with cannon balls, thinking it was 
the Castle of Dunlose, about four miles off. He also pointed out a 
place formed of a succession of small fluted columns resembling 
pipes, and called the Spanish organ, from its similarity to that in- 
strument. These heights are always covered with sea fowl of every 
description, that congregate there to receive shelter and build their 
nests in the fissures of the rock. Quite a melancholy" accident took 
place there a few weeks since. A young man from Edinburgh, in 
the morning of life and of great promise, descended from the sum- 
mit to the distance of about fifty feet in an attempt to reach one of 
these nests, when he became dizzy, lost his support, and fell about 
two hundred feet into the sea. His body was found some four days 
after by his brother, much mutilated and disfigured. 

The northern shore of Ireland is considered by navigators as ex- 
ceedingly dangerous, on account of the high seas and great number 
of rocks forming ledges below the surface of the water, and extend- 
ing for miles in some places from the main land. Several wrecks 
have taken place during the present month, and among them an 
American vessel from St. John, loaded with lumber. The crew were 
all saved by fishermen, who picked them up here and there on 
planks upon which they floated all night in the storm. 

The city of Londonderry, so celebrated in history on account of 
its long and memorable siege, is the most beautifully situated and 
interesting place in Ireland. The old wall that surrounded it origi- 
nally is still kept in good repair, and stands as a monument of its 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 93 

former strength. The public buildings all present an antique appear- 
ance without any evidence of dilapidation, and the population is 
composed of decidedly a better class of people than it has been our 
fortune to meet with elsewhere on this side of the channel. Here 
we saw something of Irish hospitality and the fine old Irish gentle- 
man in his true element. 

Londonderry is a place of considerable commerce ; vessels of the 
largest capacity come up the Foyle, and steamers of the first class 
ply daily to Glasgow and Liverpool. At this season of the year the 
docks are always crowded with laborers going to Scotland to aid 
them in gathering in their harvest, after which they return to their 
families and occupy the intervening time in tending their flocks and 
growing potatoes. 



LETTER EIGHTEEN. 

Glasgow, Scotland. 

The River Clyde— Dumbarton Castle— Glasgow— Trip to Ayr— Birthplace of Burns— Alio way 
Kirk— Brig of Doon, etc. 

In my last letter I gave you a description of the scenery on the 
river Foyle — the pride of Londonderry — out of which we sailed in a 
magnificent steamer, called the Thistle, for the shores of Caledonia, 
passing en route, by moonlight, the lofty heights of the Causeway, 
the chalk bluffs, and several beautiful islands dotted here and there 
with the thatch-covered cottages of the Irish peasantry. Wishing 
to enjoy a sea- view of the Highlands and the Firth of Clyde, so cele- 
brated in Scottish song, we gave orders to the steward, before retir- 
ing, to have us up by the dawn of day — an injunction obeyed most 
implicitly, for Aurora had scarcely emerged from the waters when 
all on board were aroused by a loud voice crying out, " The rock ! 
the rock ! the rock !" Many of the passengers, supposing the vessel 
was in danger of being stranded on some fearful breaker, rushed 
forth from their berths in their morning gowns, with glaring eyes 
and distended mouths, expecting every moment to hear the crash 
and feel the shock, but were agreeably disappointed when the cap- 
tain informed them that there was no danger, as the rock was two 
miles off — pointing out at the same time a lofty object in the shape 



94 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

of a cone, rising some forty or fifty feet above the surface of the 
water. This singular rock stands, solitary and alone, several miles 
from the main land, serving as a beacon for vessels nearing the 
Scottish shore. The captain of our ship told us, and we have no 
reason to doubt its truth, that a bold fresh water spring rises from 
the summit and flows perpetually down the sides of the rock into 
the sea, furnishing sailors with the pure element to mix with their 
vile liquor without the trouble of making a landing. Beyond this 
rock, in the dim distance, the lofty peaks of Ben Lomond, and 
the whole range of southern highlands, were presented to our view, 
forming a scene of panoramic beauty far surpassing my expectations, 
and equalling in every respect the descriptions given by different 
writers. In a short time we found ourselves ascending the Clyde, 
which is in a commercial point of view the most important river in 
Scotland, being navigable at high water for the largest class of mer- 
chant vessels as far as Glasgow. The river as far up as Dumbarton 
Castle is very wide and beautiful, with many villas and several flour- 
ishing towns on the banks, but beyond this it is very narrow and un- 
interesting except to practical minds, fond of looking at ship yards 
and dredging machines. Large sums of money have been expended 
of late by the city of Glasgow in deepening the channel and mak- 
ing the stream wider, an undertaking of great magnitude, evincing 
a degree of enterprise that we rarely see in any city. Several 
thousand Irish laborers are now employed night and day, with their 
shovels and spades, in excavating the banks and conveying the dirt 
in boats to the low lands below, which are subject to inundation at 
high tide. In a few years this river, which was originally very small 
and unimportant, will become, by human ingenuity and labor, the 
largest in the kingdom. 

Dumbarton Castle is one of the four fortresses stipulated to be 
kept up at the time of the union between Scotland and England, 
and, accordingly, it is still in repair, and occupied by a garrison. It 
is situated on a rock rising from the point of junction of the Leven 
and Clyde, to the height of two hundred and sixty feet, measuring a 
mile in circumference, terminating in two sharp points, one higher 
than the other, and covered over with houses and batteries. Pre- 
vious to his being sent to England, Wallace was confined in this 
castle, the governor of which was the notorious Sir John Menteith, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 95 

who betrayed him. One of the peaks of the rock is now called 
Wallace's Seat, and a part of the castle Wallace's Tower, in which 
can be seen a huge two-handed sword said to have belonged to that 
hero. During the wars which desolated Scotland in the reign of 
Queen Mary, this formidable fortress was taken by Captain Crawford, 
a distinguished adherent of the King's party, by means of scaling 
ladders, in the night time, choosing for his dangerous experiment 
the place where the rock was highest, and where, of course, less 
pains were taken to keep a regular guard. The exploit at the time 
was considered very extraordinary, but in this day and generation 
of ours, when men do every thing and stop at nothing, it would be 
regarded as mere child's play. 

The city of Glasgow is the great commercial metropolis of Scot- 
land, and in wealth, population, and manufacturing importance, the 
third city in the United Kingdom. It cannot be called a beautiful 
place, although it possesses many attractions. The streets are wide, 
well paved, and kept perfectly clean, and the houses all present a 
similarity of architecture, and are constructed without an exception 
of white stone found in the neighborhood. Like most of the cities 
in this country, it is rich in religious, charitable, and philanthropic 
institutions, which are supported by annual donations to the amount 
of fifty thousand pounds. Among the most important establishments 
of this kind which we visited are, the Asylum for the Houseless 
Poor, Asylum for Indigent Old Men and Orphan Boys, Institution 
for Destitute Young Females, and work-houses, all of which are con- 
ducted upon superior principles, and do much towards improving 
the condition of the masses, and elevating the tone of society. 
Among the many beautiful houses dedicated to the worship of God, 
the venerable Cathedral erected by Bishop Achaius, in 1136, is the 
most conspicuous. It occupies the highest point in the city, and 
stands, like the awful Genius of the place, in perfect preservation, 
surrounded by the remains and memorials of twenty-five generations. 
In the centre of the Necropolis, near this ancient structure, stands a 
beautiful monument erected to the memory of John Knox, the great 
ecclesiastical reformer. It is a plain and substantial structure, de- 
signed more to represent the true character of the man, than as an 
ornament to perpetuate the name of the architect, or gratify the 
vanity of those who projected it. 



96 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

The first object that strikes the eye of the stranger in Glasgow, is 
the monument recently erected in George's Square to Sir Walter 
Scott. It is in the form of a fluted Doric column, about eighty feet 
in height, with a colossal statue of the great Minstrel on the summit. 
The figure is half enveloped in a shepherd's plaid, which hangs 
in graceful folds on the wrong arm, and the expression of the coun- 
tenance is characterized by that air of bonhomie and shrewdness 
which distinguished the great writer. Directly in front of Sir 
Walter's pillar, in the same square, there is a fine pedestrian statue, 
in bronze, by Flaxman, of the lamented Sir John Moore, who was a 
native and resident of this city. To the right of the statue, in an 
angle of the square, there is also a noble figure of James Watt, in 
bronze, and of colossal magnitude. It is intended, as opportunity 
offers, to place the statues and monuments of other eminent men 
around the inclosed area of this small but handsome square, which 
is now ornamented with shrubberies and walks, so that in course of 
time it will become a sort of open Pantheon, dedicated to the illus- 
trious dead. 

Standing on the balcony of my hotel, which fronts on George's 
Square, I have before me one of the finest architectural vistas in the 
city. On one side the lofty spire of St. George's Church, one hundred 
and sixty-two feet in height, catches the eye, surmounting a build- 
ing obviously too small for such a vast superstructure. Somewhat 
nearer, on the same side, is the Dissenting Chapel, in which the cel- 
ebrated Dr. Wardlaw officiates, an elegant building, in the Grecian 
style of architecture. On the other side George street is presented 
to the view, extending for about two miles in a straight line, and 
forming an uninterrupted succession of blocks of the same descrip- 
tion. Immediately in front of me the lofty colonnade of the Royal 
Exchange rises above every other object. This splendid fabric is 
built in the florid Corinthian style of architecture, and is surmounted 
by a lantern, which forms at night one of the most conspicuous ob- 
jects in the city. As a whole, this building is regarded as one of 
the most striking of the kind in the kingdom. Its general effect is 
grand and impressive, though some of the details may be liable to 
the objections of a refined criticism. 

The streets of Glasgow present an uninterrupted scene of activity, 
and the smoke, which almost obscures the light of the sun, shows 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 97 

conclusively that her manufacturing establishments are carrying on 
an extensive business, which must in the course of a few years render 
it a wealthy, populous, and influential city. 

Wishing to see the birth-place of Burns, the great Scottish Bard, 
and the scene of Tarn o' Shanter's route, so much talked of and ad- 
mired, we formed an agreeable party and ran down by railroad to a 
little town called Ayr in the space of two hours. Here we procured 
at one of the inns a drosky, and drove out about two miles to the 
little cottage where Burns was born. The original erection was a 
clay bigging, consisting of two apartments, the kitchen and the 
spence, or sitting-room. The cottage was built by Burns's father, on 
a small piece of leased land, which he designed for a nursery, but 
gave up that idea when he was employed by Mr. Ferguson as his 
gardener and overseer. On removing to Locklee he disposed of his 
leasehold to the corporation of shoemakers in Ayr, to whom the 
house and ground still belong. It is occupied at present by an old 
lady as an ale-house, and every one that goes there is expected to 
drink to the memory of the departed in a mug which has been 
used for the purpose ever since the poet's death. In the interior of 
the kitchen we were shown a recess, where stood the bed in which 
Burns was born, also several articles of furniture said to have be- 
longed to the family. Proceeding a little further, we saw " Allo- 
way's auld haunted kirk." This interesting building has long been 
roofless, but the walls, which are very thick and built of stone only 
one story in height, are pretty well preserved, and it still retains 
the old bell on the east end, as a memento of its ancient importance. 
Every piece of wood-work about the house has long since been re- 
moved to make snuff-boxes and other memorials of this celebrated 
spot. The churchyard of Alloway has now become a fashionable 
burying place. Its little area is almost filled w T ith modern monu- 
ments to the memory of persons, many of whom have been brought 
from considerable distances to take their rest in this doubly conse- 
crated ground. The poet is not interred here, as might have been 
expected, but at Dumfries in the extreme south of Scotland. A few 
yards from the kirk a well trickles down into the Doon, where 
formerly stood the thorn on which " Mungo's mither hang'd hersel," 
and just beyond is the " Auld Brig" of Doon, which figures so con- 
spicuously in the tale of Tarn o' Shanter. The age of the structure 



98 

is unknown, but it is evidently of great antiquity. Between the 
kirk and the brig, on an elevation, stands the monument erected in 
1820 by voluntary contribution, at a cost of upwards of £4,000. It 
is a beautiful structure, and contains, in a circular apartment on the 
ground floor, several articles appropriate to the place, various editions 
of the poet's works, a snuff-box made from the wood-work of Alloway 
Kirk, a copy of the original portrait of Burns by Nasmyth, and the 
Bible given by Burns to his Highland Mary. The monument stands 
in the centre of a square acre, which is beautifully inclosed and 
adorned with shrubbery of every description. In a small grotto at 
the south side of the inclosed ground we were shown the two far- 
famed statues of Tarn o' Shanter and Souter Johnnie, by Mr. Thom, 
of Ayr. They are well executed, and represent the characters in the 
drinking scene to perfection. 

From the base of the monument we obtained a splendid view of 
the picturesque scenery of Dover and the surrounding country, 
which has acquired so much celebrity through the writings of the 
inimitable bard. It is certainly beautiful, and every way suited to 
inspire the imagination and elevate the thoughts of a poetical 
genius. 



LETTER NINETEEN. 

Stirling, Scotland. 
Farming in the South of Scotland — Hotels — Expense of Travel — Highland Scenery — Locho 
Lomond and Katrine — The Trosachs — Stirling Castle, etc. 

In previous letters I have given descriptions of the system of farm- 
ing in England and Ireland, which varies materially from that in 
this country, owing to the great difference in the qualities of the 
land and manner of culture. Scotland is naturally divided into 
highlands and lowlands, and the surface of the country is conse- 
quently exceedingly diversified. The general average is inferior to 
that of England, although many of the valleys are highly produc- 
tive. It is supposed, that estimating the whole extent of the coun- 
try, exclusive of lakes, at 19,000,000 acres, scarcely so many as 
6,000,000 are arable — that is, less than one third ; whereas in Eng- 



AND ASIA. 99 

land the proportion of arable land to the entire extent of the coun- 
try exceeds three fourths. The inferiority of the climate also ren- 
ders this country less desirable in an agricultural point of view than 
either England or Ireland, as exhibited by contrasting the phenom- 
ena of vegetation in the several divisions. Notwithstanding the very 
advanced state of agriculture in the southern counties of Scotland, 
the crops are not reaped with the same certainty as in England ; 
nor do the ordinary kinds of grain arrive at the same perfection. 
Various fruits, also, which ripen in the one country, seldom arrive at 
maturity in the other, and never reach the same perfection ; while 
different berries acquire in Scotland somewhat of that delicious fla- 
vor which distinguishes them in still higher parallels. The high- 
lands of this country are barren and unproductive, and fit only for 
grazing purposes — a source of wealth entered into very largely by 
the tenantry. In the lowlands, which lie principally in the south, 
the farms are not divided up into small parcels or patches as in 
other portions of Great Britain, but on the contrary, they are very 
extensive, and remind me very much of the broad acres in our west- 
ern fields. 

The internal communication throughout Scotland is so extensive, 
and the facilities of locomotion so great, that one may accomplish 
the usual tour through the Highlands in a few days, without much 
annoyance or fatigue. Carriage roads extend over the whole coun- 
try ; and in consequence of the excellent materials which abound in 
all parts of Scotland, and of the greater skill and science of Scottish 
trustees and surveyors, their turnpike roads are better built and su- 
perior in every respect to those in England. Notwithstanding the 
irregularity of surface is so unfavorable to artificial inland naviga- 
tion, w T e find a number of large canals, of considerable length, upon 
which are carried on an extensive traffic. Many railroads are also 
in progress, and some completed, connecting the most important 
points of communication, and rendering the facilities of travel and 
transportation exceedingly convenient for those who are able to 
stand up under exorbitant charges. Every thing that one requires 
while travelling through Scotland has to be paid for about three 
times over. The fares on canals, railroads, and post-coaches are 
much dearer even than in England, and the hotel bills are really 
alarming to a backwoodsman unaccustomed to " roast beef and two 



100 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 



li&j 



dollars a day." One can afford, however, to be gouged in this man- 
ner for a short time, if he has any romance in his composition, and 
loves to gaze upon the beauties of nature, which are scattered pro- 
fusely in every direction over the whole country. To describe the 
Highland scenery w r ould be a work of supererogation and presump- 
tion on my part, as every one who has perused the writings of Sir 
Walter Scott and the letters of the numerous tourists through this 
country, are almost as familiar with every lake, hill, and dale in 
Scotland, as the Highlanders themselves. But in order to furnish 
you with a connecting link of our journey, I will describe briefly 
the scenes that we passed through en route from Glasgow to this 
place — a tour usually made by persons who do not desire to pene- 
trate the extreme north, and which embraces the finest lake scenery 
and most beautiful highlands in Scotland. Leaving the city of Glas- 
gow early in the morning, we proceeded down the river Clyde on a 
omall steamer, with a full complement of passengers, as far as Dum- 
barton, where we took the rail for the foot of Loch Lomond, (" the 
lake full of islands,") which is unquestionably the pride of Scottish 
lakes. Here we found a small steamboat waiting to convey us to 
the northern extremity of the lake to an excellent inn called Tarbet, 
which is snugly ensconced in a little vale at the foot of Ben Lomond. 
The lake is twenty-three miles in length, and its breadth, where 
greatest, at the southern extremity, is five miles, from which it 
gradually grows narrower, till it terminates in a narrow prolonged 
sheet of water. Numerous islands of every varying form and out- 
line which fancy can frame, stud the unrippled surface of the water, 
and the old ruins of the strongholds of the Macfarlanes still stand as 
monuments of the past ; while the lofty peak of Ben Lomond, rising 
more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea, serves to 
complete the view, and form a picture of natural beauty that is 
really sublime. Eeaching Tarbet early in the day, we concluded to 
make use of our time and visit Loch Long, about three miles dis- 
tant, which is considered by many as very beautiful, but far inferior 
to Loch Lomond in every particular. It is formed by an arm of the 
sea, and navigable in high tide as far up as a little place called 
Arroquhar, formerly the seat of the chief of the clan Macfarlane. 
Our guide — whom we found to be like all other guides, exceedingly 
communicative, and willing to tell all he knew and more too — 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AKD ASIA. 101 

informed me that this was the loch up which the Norwegians sailed 
when they invaded Scotland with a fleet of sixty vessels, ravaging 
the country on all sides, and on reaching the head of the loch they 
drew their boats across the isthmus into Loch Lomond, and com- 
mitted the same depredations on its shores. Near the head of the 
loch is a fantastic peak called Ben Arthur or the Cobbler, from its 
resemblance to a shoemaker at work — a place where all strangers 
are decoyed by the guide in order that they may run their hands 
a little deeper into your pocket, and excuse themselves when you 
express your disappointment, by saying that every body goes there, 
which is very consoling to a man feeling conscious that he has been 
gouged. However, we shall not complain, as we were fully com- 
pensated on our return to the inn, by an invitation from one of the 
lairds to attend a Scottish fete in the neighborhood, which we ac- 
cepted, as you might suppose, being unwilling to allow such a favor- 
able opportunity to pass for seeing the Highland character on its 
native heath. Here we were interested beyond measure in the cos- 
tumes of the different clans, and their manner of dancing, each one 
having different ways of adjusting their plaids, and peculiarities of 
step easily distinguished by the looker on. The Macgregors, 
Macfarlanes, and all the neighboring Macs, were there with their 
bonnie lasses, " tripping the light fantastic toe," to the squeak of the 
bagpipe, until the shades of evening admonished them that it was 
time for them to repair to their homes. On the following morning 
we crossed the placid waters of Loch Lomond in a pleasure boat to 
the cataract of Inversnade, the scene of Wordsworth's beautiful 
poem to the " Highland Girl." Here we procured a drosky and 
crossed over a narrow and rugged pathway to Loch Katrine, so ele- 
gantly described by Sir Walter Scott, in the Lady of the Lake. Just 
as we came in sight of the water we saw the little boat that was to 
convey us to the Trosachs, puffing away about two miles from the 
starting point — leaving us, as we supposed, to pass the day in a 
miserable little hovel, licensed to sell ale and cider, to be drunk on 
the premises. Fortunately, however, we had in our party a tall six- 
footer from the far west, who proposed to hail the boat, a suggestion 
received with a smile, as they all doubted the power of his lungs to 
make himself heard at so great a distance. But suiting the action 
to the word, he raised his stentorian voice to its highest key, and 



102 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD : OR, 

actually* succeeded in rendering himself audible and bringing the 
boat back to the shore — an achievement worthy of Rob Roy, or any 
of the McGregors who once roved the region about Loch Katrine to 
the terror of all the neighboring clans. To give you a description 
of this beautiful sheet of water is impossible, as no one can con- 
vey to the distant reader an adequate idea of the works of nature. 
It must be seen, and the many associations connected with it felt, in 
order to appreciate its varied beauties. The loch is of a serpentine 
form, encircled by lofty mountains, and is ten miles in length, at- 
taining, in some places, a breadth of two miles. The scenery which 
fringes its shores is wild and romantic, reminding me very much, 
from its similarity, of Lake George in New-York. In sailing along 
towards the Trosachs, I discovered many arms of the lake — here a 
bold headland, where black rocks dip in unfathomable water — there 
the white sands in the bottom of a bay, bleached for ages by the 
waves. On the north side there is a solid ledge of rock, which rises 
two hundred feet above the lake, down which a hundred little streams 
rush with incredible noise and velocity into the basin below. On the 
opposite shore the wild goats climb where they have scarce room 
for the soles of their feet, and the water eagle sits in undisturbed 
majesty on his well-known rock, where he gazes with composed in- 
difference on the sight-seekers below. The scene is closed by a 
view of the Trosachs, (Troschen, bristled territory,) which is 

" So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
The scenery of a fairy dream." 

Here we found an excellent inn, much resorted to during the sum- 
mer months by tourists, and persons wishing to avoid the heat and 
dust of the cities, where we procured refreshments, and proceeded 
by post coach to Stirling, passing en route the Bri'dge of Turk, 
the " Coilantogle Ford," where Fitzjames and Roderic Dhu met face 
to face, and steel to steel — and the romantic village of Callender, 
surrounded by wooded crags and pastoral inclosures. 

The town of Stirling is delightfully situated on an eminence near 
the river Forth, and bears in the distance a beautiful and imposing 
appearance, but possesses nothing to interest the stranger, except 
the old castle, which was built and for a long time used as the resi- 
dence of royalty. It was frequently taken and retaken after pro- 



103 

tracted sieges, during the wars which were carried on for the inde- 
pendence of Scotland, and is now occupied by soldiers — being one 
of the four fortresses which, by the articles of the Union, are always 
to be kept in repair. Among the many interesting things pointed 
out to the stranger in the old castle is one of the apartments called 
Douglas's Room, in consequence of the assassination of William, 
Earl of Douglas, by the hand of James II., after he had granted 
him a safe conduct ; — -a deed of great historic interest, which is 
beautifully expressed in those lines from the Lady of the Lake, 

" Tetarver, within whose circuit dread, 
A Douglas by his sovereign bled." 

The view from the towers of the castle is extremely magnificent. 
v To the north and east are the Ochil hills, and the windings of the 
Forth through the carse of Stirling, with its fertile fields, luxuriant 
woods, and stately mansions. On the west lies the vale of Menteith, 
bounded by the highland mountains. The Campsie hills close the 
horizon on the south, and in the foreground, on the east, are the 
tower, the Abbey Craig, and the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey." 

About one mile from Stirling is the celebrated battle-field of 
Bannockburn, which has been aptly termed the Marathon of the 
North. It was on this memorable spot that Edward II., with one 
hundred thousand men, was so signally defeated by Robert Bruce, 
with only thirty thousand, sustaining a loss of thirty-six thousand 
men, and seven hundred barons and knights — one of the most bril- 
liant victories in the annals of military glory. The view from the 
eminence on which the battle was fought, is very extensive, varied, 
and beautiful. According to tradition the royal standard was pitched 
in a stone, having a round hole for its reception, and thence called 
the Bare Stone. The remaining fragments of this stone, protected 
from the depredations of persons visiting the spot by a frame-work 
of wire, are still shown as a precious remembrance of Scottish valor. 



104 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 



LETTER TWENTY. 

Edinburgh, Scotland. 
General Appearance of Edinburgh— Old Town and New Town— Population— Hospitals — 
Holyrood Palace — The Castle — Public Buildings — Monuments— Excursion to Melrose 
Abbey — Abbotsford — Dryburgh, e tc. 

Among the numerous cities we have visited in the kingdom of Great 
Britain, the metropolis of Scotland is unquestionably the most beau- 
tiful and attractive. Instead of approaching the " Heart of Midlo- 
thian" through mean and squalid suburbs, as in most places, the 
stranger is gradually introduced into streets of a highly respectable 
character ; the abodes of poverty being for the most part confined to 
gigantic piles of buildings, in the older parts of the city, where 
they serve as ornaments rather than otherwise, and contribute essen- 
tially to the picturesque grandeur of the place. Of late years Edin- 
burgh has acquired the epithet of modern Athens, a title conferred by 
writers on account of its literary character, and striking resemblance 
in situation to that ancient and renowned city. In panoramic beauty, 
its site is certainly unequalled by any city that I have yet seen on 
this side of the waters, which, taken in connection with the curious- 
disorder of the buildings in the Old Town, and the symmetrical 
proportions of the streets in the New, presents to the eye a picture 
of rare and singular grandeur. From Calton Hill, which rises higher 
than the tallest spire near the centre of the city, and is ascended by 
a flight of stone steps, the visitor is furnished with a view of the 
environs that will fully repay for the trouble and fatigue of climb- 
ing. 

" Traced like a map the landscape lies, 

In cultured beauty stretching wide ; 

There Pentland's green acclivities ; 

There Ocean with its azure tide ; 

There Arthur's Seat ; and gleaming through 

The Southern wing, Dunedin blue ; 

"While in the orient Lammer's daughters, 

A distant giant range, are seen, 

North Berwick-Law with cone of green, 

And bass amid the waters." 

It is not natural or artificial beauties alone that render Edinburgh 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 105 

so attractive, for many of its localities teem with recollections of 
"the majestic past," and are associated with events of deep histori- 
cal importance. Many of its localities have been invested with in- 
terest no less engrossing by the transcendent genius of Sir Walter 
Scott, who has done more for Scotland than Scotland ever did for 
herself. His writings have not only refreshed and embellished the 
incidents of history, but have conferred on many a spot previously 
unknown to fame, a reputation as enduring as the rock of ages. In 
literary eminence, also, Edinburgh claims a distinguished place, and 
its prosperity depends essentially upon its college and schools, and 
still more essentially upon the courts of judicature. The former at- 
tract many youths from great distances who are desirous of obtain- 
ing a liberal education at a moderate expense ; the latter afford em- 
ployment for the gentlemen of the legal profession^ who constitute 
at least one third of the population in the higher and middle ranks 
of society, a proportion greater than you will find in any other city. 
Do not understand me that all subsist solely by their professional 
gains ; a considerable number of them are gentlemen wholly inde- 
pendent of their profession, who have joined the body on account of 
the status which they acquire from the learning and accomplishment 
of its members. 

Edinburgh has no extensive manufactures like its sister city Glas- 
gow, and is consequently exempt from those sudden mercantile con- 
vulsions productive of so much misery in large manufacturing towns. 
Printing and publishing are carried on more extensively than any 
other branch of industry. In this department, Edinburgh far sur- 
passes all the towns of the kingdom, London only excepted ; many 
of the most valuable and popular works of the age emanating from 
her press. According to the recent census there appears to be a 
greater numerical disproportion in the sexes than there ever was 
before ; the tables show an excess of the females amounting to 
upwards of sixteen thousand. Upon inquiry, I was informed by an 
intelligent gentleman residing here, that this strange fact is mainly 
to be attributed to the stationary or retrograde state of industrial 
occupation in the city, the young men being obliged to seek for 
employment in other fields of enterprise, while the weaker sex, less 
adventurous, and less able to indulge the spirit of adventure where 
it exists, are compelled to remain in the place of their nativity and 

5* 



106 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

maintain themselves as domestics, or in any other way that opportu- 
nity offers. 

Of the public edifices it may be observed, that while the greater 
number are distinguished by chaste design and excellent masonry, 
there are none of those sumptuous and elegant structures which, 
like St. Paul's or Westminster Abbey, Parliament House, and many 
other places throughout the kingdom, strike the beholder with won- 
der, and astonish alike by their magnitude and their architectural 
splendor. In no city, however, is the general standard of excellence 
so well maintained ; although you find no edifice here to overwhelm 
the imagination by its magnificence, there are comparatively few to 
offend taste by their deformity or meanness of design. 

The hospitals of this city for the education and maintenance of poor 
and fatherless children, or children whose parents are in indigent cir- 
cumstances, are decidedly the most imposing structures and proudest 
ornaments to be seen any where in Scotland. Out of ten or twelve 
buildings termed hospitals, Heriot's and Donaldson's are the largest 
and conducted on the most extensive and improved plans. The for- 
mer owes its foundation to George Heriot, jeweller to James VI., more 
familiarly known to us as the "jingling Geordie" of "The Fortunes of 
Nigel." The latter was founded by a printer of Edinburgh, who died 
in 1830, and bequeathed the greater part of his estate, amounting 
to nearly £200,000, for the purpose of building and keeping in 
operation a hospital for poor boys and girls. The course of instruc- 
tion in these institutions is very thorough, embracing the classics, 
the modern languages, and all the various branches of a complete 
English education. Pupils are admitted between the ages of seven 
and ten, and generally leave at fourteen, unless superior scholarship 
appears to fit them for prosecuting some of the learned professions, 
in which case the period of their term is prolonged, with the view 
of preparing them for the studies of the University. Upon leaving 
the hospitals, each boy is furnished with a Bible, and other useful 
books, with two suits of clothes of their own choice. 

Those who leave the institutions for the purpose of learning a 
trade are allowed ten pounds annually for five years, and have five 
pounds at the termination of their apprenticeship ; and those who 
desire to enter some of the learned professions are sent to college 
for four years, during which time they receive thirty pounds a year. 



LETTERS FROM EUROrE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 107 

Aside from these advantages given to the poor, other benefits have 
resulted from the application of the surplus funds belonging to these 
institutions to the establishment of free schools and bursaries, or 
exhibitions, which are always open to those who do not belong to 
the hospitals, bringing thereby the advantages of a substantial edu- 
cation within the reach of every citizen, however humble. 

Among the ancient buildings of Edinburgh the Palace of Holy- 
rood is the most interesting. By those acquainted with the early 
history of Scotland, it is considered as almost sacred, and visited 
with the same feeling of reverence that possesses an American when 
he visits the tomb at Mount Vernon. The building has undergone 
so many changes from time to time in the way of alterations and 
additions, that it would be difficult to determine the prevailing style 
of architecture, or to affix a precise date to any part of it. It is in 
the form of a quadrangle, with a central court, and is flanked on 
the front with double castellated towers, imparting to it that mili- 
tary character which the events of Scottish history have so frequent- 
ly proved to have been requisite in her royal residences. The only 
objects of interest now to be seen in the Palace are the bed of Queen 
Mary, which remains in the same state as when last occupied by 
that unfortunate princess, and the closet where the murderers of 
Rizzio surprised their victim. Stains are still shown by the cicerone 
at the door of the apartments, which she in an air theatrical told us 
were produced by the blood of the murdered man. The largest 
room in the Palace is the Picture Gallery, which is filled with pieces 
of colored canvas, in gilt frames, called portraits, and said to be 
likenesses of all the Scottish kings ; but they are executed in such a 
barbarous style that you would find it difficult (without a guide) to 
determine whether the artist intended them for likenesses of Scottish 
kings or Africans. The Duke of Hamilton (hereditary keeper) oc- 
cupies the Palace while in Edinburgh, and on public occasions it is 
still used for levees and entertainments. During his absence it is 
thrown open for the inspection of strangers, who, as at all such 
places throughout Great Britain, are expected to drain their pockets 
of small change for the benefit of stupid cicerones, whose presence 
tends more to annoy and mar the pleasure of a visit, than will com- 
pensate for the little information they retail in their oft repeated 
story. 



108 A TENNE&&EAN ABROAD J OR, 

After going through the halls of old Holyrood, we proceeded 
up High street, familiarly known as the place where John Knox, 
the great reformer, lived and preached. The building having fallen 
into a very dilapidated state, was ordered several years since to be 
taken down, but a subscription for its preservation was immediately 
raised by some of the more public-spirited of the citizens, and this 
interesting old relic permitted to remain as a memorial of its former 
occupant. It has recently been restored by the purchasers, who have 
taken great care to preserve every feature of the building, and placed 
a family within to exhibit it to strangers and protect it from spolia- 
tion. As we entered the old house, my attention was attracted by 
the following admonitory inscription over the door : 

" Lufe. God. above, ail. and. your, neebour. as. yourself.'' 1 

And close beneath the window from which Knox is said to have 
preached to the populace, I observed a rude effigy of the reformer 
stuck up on the corner in the attitude of addressing the passers by. 
The old arm-chair and several other interesting pieces of furniture 
used by John Knox are shown to visitors, and a beautiful steel engrav- 
ing of the building is furnished at a very moderate price. Pursuing 
our way up High street, we came to the Castle, which occupies the 
most prominent site in Edinburgh, and may be said to form the nu- 
cleus around which the city has arisen. The period of its founda- 
dation is involved in mystery. The earliest name by which it is 
known in history is Castrum Puellarum, or "The Camp of the 
Maidens," from the daughters of the Pictish kings being reared and 
tutored within its walls. Like most of the fortresses in Scotland, it 
has experienced vicissitudes peculiar to her early history, and was 
frequently taken and retaken by various conflicting parties. It is 
one of the four fortresses which, by the articles of Union, are to be 
kept constantly fortified, and contains at present accommodation for 
two thousand soldiers, and space sufficient in the armory to hold thirty 
thousand stand of arms. There is nothing very curious or interest- 
ing in the structure of the Castle. It consists of a series of irregu- 
lar fortifications, which were at one time considered impregnable ; 
but at the present age it is regarded as utterly useless. Many things 
connected with great historical events are exhibited in the Castle by 
an order from the Lord Provost, which is never refused when prop- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 109 

erly applied for. The Scottish regalia are to be seen in an apart- 
ment called the crown room every day from twelve to three o'clock. 
These insignia of royalty consist of a crown, a sceptre, and a sword 
of state ; along with them is also shown the Lord Treasurer's rod of 
office, found deposited in the same old oak chest in which the regalia 
was discovered by Sir "Walter Scott. Compared with the crown 
jewels of England, they are of small value ; but taken in connection 
with the many associations connected with them, they are inestima- 
ble. The room where Queen Mary gave birth to James VI., in whom 
the crowns of England and Scotland were united, the huge piece of 
artillery called Mons Meg and his wife Meg, are also exhibited to 
strangers, besides a number of other interesting things too numerous 
to mention. 

Besides these old buildings which are interesting mainly on account 
of the associations connected with them, the city of Edinburgh can 
boast of many modern structures that are fit to adorn any place. 
Among them may be mentioned the High School, Parliament House, 
St. Giles' Cathedral, and the Royal Institution for the Encourage- 
ment of the Fine Arts in Scotland. The latter named building con- 
tains the paintings of the Scottish artists — comprehending speci- 
mens of Wilkie, Etty, Turner, Maclise, Stanfield, Roberts, and other 
artists of distinction. 

The monuments of this city attract more attention probably than 
any other objects. They are very numerous, and some of them ex- 
ceedingly beautiful and costly. On Calton Hill, which I have allu- 
ded to in the beginning of this letter, there are several monuments 
worthy of notice ; but as I am pressed for space, and wish to notice 
others of more importance, will merely mention their names. The 
first that attracts the notice of the visitor is the graceful monument 
to Dugald Stewart ; and close by one of equal beauty to Professor 
Playfair. Upon the summit of the hill stands Nelson's Monument, 
a structure more ponderous than elegant, but which, though wholly 
destitute of grandeur of design, becomes impressive from its great 
size and elevated position. Near it is the Old Observatory, and 
twelve columns of the National Monument, an unfinished structure 
intended to commemorate the heroes who fell at Waterloo. The 
splendor of the projected building (which was to be a literal repro- 
duction of the Parthenon) was worthy of a better cause, where 



110 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

Scottish valor achieved some glory, unaided by allied powers. In 
the centre of St. Andrew's Square, which is in the most beautiful 
part of the city, there is a monument erected to the memory of 
Lord Melville ; it rises one hundred and thirty feet in height, be- 
sides the statue, which measures fourteen feet more. The design is 
that of a Trojan column, the shaft being fluted, instead of orna- 
mented with sculpture as in the ancient model. Throughout the 
principal streets' are to be seen a number of bronze statues represent- 
ing the different sovereigns, and other distinguished characters in 
Scottish history; but the most important testimonial in the city is 
the monument to Sir Walter Scott, which was designed by George 
M. Kemp, and completed in the year 1844. It is situated in the 
most public part of Prince street, the great thoroughfare of Edin- 
burgh, is constructed of a beautiful quality of sandstone, and is two 
hundred feet in height ; a stair of two hundred and eighty-seven 
steps conducts to the gallery at the top. " In each part of the mon- 
ument, above the principal arch, are six small niches, making a total 
of twenty-four in the main structure, besides thirty-two others in the 
piers and abutment towers. These niches are to be occupied by 
sculptural impersonations of the characters, historical and fanciful, 
portrayed in the writings of Sir Walter. The following statues now 
occupy the four principal niches which crown the four lowest arches, 
viz. : the statue of Prince Charles, (from Waverley,) drawing his 
sword ; Meg Merrilies, (from Guy Mannering,) breaking the sapling 
over the head of Lady Bertram ; Lady of the Lake, stepping from 
a boat to shore ; and the Last Minstrel, playing on his harp. Under 
the arches in the monument is a beautiful marble statue of Scott, by 
Steel ; a fine work of art, and said to be a most faithful likeness. 
The inscription is appropriate, and the monument well worthy to 
commemorate the genius of the departed great. 

After viewing the monuments in the city, we made an excursion 
to "fair Melrose," which is situated in the vale of the Tweed, near 
the foot of Eildon Hill. The village at present is utterly devoid of 
interest ; but the country round about is every where fertile and 
picturesque ; while the famous Abbey yet stands in beauteous ruins, 
presenting to the eye the finest specimen of Gothic sculpture and 
Gothic architecture ever reared in this country. A few miles beyond 
Melrose is Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter, situated on a bank 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. Ill 

overhanging the south side of the Tweed, which here makes a beau- 
tiful sweep around the declivity on which the mansion stands. 
Though irregular in its proportions, the building as a whole pro- 
duces a very striking effect. The visitor is ushered in by a porch- 
way, adorned with petrified stag-horns, into a hall which is richly 
panelled with carved oak, from the palace of Dunfernshire ; behind 
the cornice there is a line of coats-armorial richly blazoned, belong- 
ing to the families who kept the borders. The floor is of black and 
white marble from the Hebrides, and the walls are hung with an- 
cient armor, and various specimens of military implements. We 
were then conducted into the armory, a narrow, low arched room, 
which runs quite across the house, having a blazoned window at 
either extremity, and filled with smaller pieces of armor and wea- 
pons. This apartment communicates with the drawing-room on 
one side, and the dining-room on the other. The former is a lofty 
saloon, with wood of cedar, and furnished with antique ebony furni- 
ture, carved cabinets, all of beautiful workmanship. The latter is a 
very handsome apartment, richly carved with black oak, and con- 
tains a fine collection of pictures, the most interesting of which are 
the family portraits, and the head of Queen Mary in a charger the 
day after she was beheaded. The library, which is the largest of all 
the apartments, is a magnificent room, fifty feet by sixty. The col- 
lection of books in this room amounts to about twenty thousand 
volumes, many of them extremely rare and valuable. Adjoining the 
library is the study in which Sir Walter wrote all of his works. His 
writing table, old arm-chair, and clothes worn at the time of his de- 
cease, are here shown to visitors by a cicerone employed by Mr. 
Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott's son-in-law, who now occupies the man- 
sion, and allows it to be visited at all times by strangers, who are 
conducted through all the apartments and out-grounds. 

Not far from Abbotsford and near Melrose is the Abbey of Diy- 
burgh, which is the most melancholy-looking spot that could have 
been selected for the last resting place of Sir Walter. The building 
is almost entirely demolished by the work of time, and the only por- 
tions that are now standing are the gable of the nave of the church, 
the ends of the transept, part of the choir, and St. Mary's aisle. In 
the latter, which is by far the most beautiful part of the Abbey, are 
to be seen, side by side, the plain granite tombs of Sir Walter, his 



112 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OK, 

wife and only son, the late Col. Scott. There is no inscription on 
the tomb but his name, which speaks more than any epitaph that 
could be written. His name will live when the stone slab that now 
covers his mortal remains will have crumbled awav ; and his writ- 
ings, which embrace all the beauties of the English language, will 
be as familiar for centuries to come as household words. 



LETTER TWENTY-ONE. 

Paris. 

The French Fetes— Dinner — Theatricals and Concerts at the Hotel dc Vilie — Visit to Ver- 
sailles — The President's Festival at St. Cloud — Reception at the English Embassy— Ball 
at the Hotel de Ville — Grand Review and Sham Fight in the Champ de Mars — Dramatic 
Representation at the Opera, etc 

Before this letter reaches you, the telegraph will have conveyed 
the news of the recent festivities in Paris — a succession of brilliant 
scenes that will long be remembered throughout the world. The 
Prefect of the Seine, in the name of the great city of Paris, and I 
may say, in that of the French nation, invited the Chief Magistrate 
and civic dignitaries of London, the Mayors of the different towns 
in England that were represented at the Exhibition, the Royal Com- 
missioners, the Executive Committee, and all those who were in any 
way associated with that great work, together with a host of other 
distinguished foreigners, to accept the hospitalities of la belle France, 
upon her own soil. The generous invitation was cordially accepted ; 
and for five days this gay metropolis and her magistrature, with a 
profuse expense, with the most excellent judgment, with the most 
perfect taste, with the most kindly feeling, and with most untiring 
zeal, have endeavored to show their guests that they did not under- 
rate the importance of the occasion, or the effect it was calculated 
to produce, not only at home, but over public opinion throughout 
the civilized world. The year 1851 will hereafter constitute an im- 
portant era in the history of Europe. The Exhibition of the In- 
dustry of all Nations at London first gave it an impulse, and all the 
events that from time to time have sprung out of it, together with 
those likely to ensue, are calculated to confirm and strengthen the 



113 

belief that some great result is yet to be accomplished. Indeed, 
much has already been accomplished towards inculcating the rela- 
tion of friendship, peace and good- will, between two of the most 
powerful and hitherto most hostile nations in Europe. Ever since 
the inglorious defeat of Napoleon by the allied powers on the field 
of Waterloo, the French people have entertained a bitter hatred to- 
wards England, have burned for an opportunity to wipe out what 
they consider a stain upon their escutcheon. But what do we now 
see ? France extending the hand of fellowship to the Lord Mayor 
of London and his numerous retinue, in a manner unknown to Eng- 
lishmen, and wholly unexpected. The city of Paris not only gave 
her English guests a free passage by land and sea, but for the first 
time abolished the passport system, and what was perhaps still 
more agreeable, the inspection of John Bull's portmanteau at Bou- 
logne and the barriers — a courtesy unheard of in the English works 
on etiquette, and which, it is to be hoped, may teach them a lesson 
in politeness and cordiality of feeling. 

The Fetes were opened on Saturday the 2d inst. with a sumptu- 
ous dinner, given by M. Berger, the Prefect of the Seine, in behalf 
of the city of Paris, at the Hotel de Ville. No place could have 
been selected more appropriate for the opening of the festivities — a 
palace distinguished alike for its magnificence and architectural 
beauty — the residence of the Prefect, and the head- quarters of the 
Corps de Ville, or municipality of Paris. About six o'clock the 
whole of the vast range of rooms, fitted up for festive receptions, 
were thrown open, and the invited guests began to assemble. At a 
lale hour the Lord Mayor of London and his suite arrived, dressed 
in courtly style, and full of consequence. M. Berger welcomed them 
to the hospitalities of Paris in a manner j)eculiarly happy, in which 
he alluded to the position of his own country and that of Great 
Britain among the nations of the earth, and the importance of culti- 
vating relations of amity and friendship between the two people. 
The Lord from London, after being informed by an interpreter at his 
elbow as to the purport of the Frenchman ] s remarks, replied in the 
same complimentary strain, and pledged in a bumper of good old 
Rhenish wine the future and growing friendship of France and 
Great Britain. The dinner party was composed of some of the most 
distinguished men of the two countries, besides many from other 



114: A TEN^ESSEAN ABEOAD ; OR, 

nations, who happened to be in the city, and whose presence added 
much to the enjoyment and brilliance of the occasion. 

At nine o'clock the cloth was removed, and the guests were 
ushered into a room appropriated for theatricals. The best perform- 
ers in the city were selected, and a comedy arranged for the evening 
was presented in real French style, much to the amusement of the 
party. The closing scene of the evening was decidedly the most 
interesting. The comedy being concluded, the guests were attract- 
ed to the Grand Saloon by the sound of many voices and music of 
surpassing beauty. All of the first-rate musicians that could be 
procured, assisted by one hundred operatic voices, and conducted by 
the celebrated Strauss, were placed on an elevated stage in one end 
of the brilliantly illuminated room, where they discoursed music of 
the most select character in a manner highly creditable, and much 
to the gratification of all who had the pleasure of being present. 

The following day being Sunday, (which is the day in France,) 
the same circle of guests, and thousands more, were invited by the 
Prefect of Paris to visit the galleries and sylvan shades of Ver- 
sailles, rendered especially attractive by the announcement that the 
grande8 eaux would be seen in full play. From an early hour in 
the morning until late in the afternoon the powers of accommoda- 
tion of rive droite and rive gauche railways were put to a severe test 
by the incessant crowds besieging their termini, and asking to be 
conveyed at any price to the palace of all the glories of France. 
They proved equal to the emergency ; and train after train, with two 
locomotives and one mile in length, crammed within and without, 
were dispatched with a degree of order and punctuality which is 
rarely seen in other countries on such occasions. 

Versailles is situated about four leagues from the capital, and 
contains a population of 30,000 inhabitants. The chateau and 
two small palaces called the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon con- 
stitute the only attractions of the place. The palace was built by 
Louis XIV., at the enormous cost of forty millions sterling, includ- 
ing the gardens and fountains. It is considered the finest palace 
in the world, and certainly possesses attractions far superior to any 
thing to be seen in England. It belongs to the government, and is 
kept up at an enormous expense, as a place of resort for strangers. 
The company were first ushered though the state apartments, which 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 115 

are six miles in length, beautifully furnished, and filled with paint- 
ings of the old masters and modern artists of merit, forming a com- 
plete history of France, and furnishing the visitor with a collection 
of the fine arts no where else to be seen. After viewing and admir- 
ing the beauties of the chateau, the company were invited into the 
gardens, where the waters of innumerable fountains sparkled in the 
glowing sunshine of as lovely a day as ever dawned. The aspect of 
the grounds, filled with beautiful avenues, broad sheets of water, ex- 
otics from every clime, statuary, promenaders attired in every con- 
ceivable hue, and the feathery jets spouting in a thousand forms, 
was brilliant in the extreme. As the hour approached for the prin- 
cipal fountain in the Piece cle Neptune to launch its maze of glitter- 
ing sprays into the air, the sloping bank of turf which forms a vast 
amphitheatre around it became more and more densely crowded with 
spectators. At about five o'clock the Lord Mayor of London and 
the invited guests made their appearance in a space immediately in 
front of the fountain allotted to those who were provided with cards 
of invitation. Over one hundred thousand persons were present 
on this occasion, and when the Prefect gave the signal for the out- 
break of the waters, a stream of jets crossing each other in the most 
graceful curves, spread itself out high and wide over the seething 
surface of the great basin, accompanied by the martial strains of 
music and the shouting of the populace, and forming upon the 
whole a scene of incredible splendor. After remaining some time 
contemplating the spectacle before them, the vast crowd gradually 
began to move, and poured its streams through the various gates of 
the park once more to invade the railway stations. 

The gorgeous festival given by the President of the Republic in 
the galleries and gardens of St. Cloud, on Monday evening, consti- 
tuted the third of the series of fetes, and will long be remembered 
by all who had the pleasure of witnessing the happy reception given 
by Louis Napoleon to the Lord Mayor of London, in the favorite 
chateau of his uncle, the Emperor. The palace, which is now the 
summer residence of the President, is beautifully situated on the 
Seine, two leagues west of Paris, and is one of the most elegant and 
interesting country seats in all France. The buildings and out- 
grounds are on a small scale compared with Versailles, but it is far 
more desirable as a place of residence, and certainly much better 



116 

suited for Napoleon, who, unlike his predecessor the King, has no 
responsibilities to look after, and consequently requires but little 
room in his state of single blessedness. The Corinthian order pre- 
vails in* the construction of the outer walls, and the interior is fitted 
up in a style that smacks more of royalty than republicanism. Val- 
uable furniture and costly ornaments adorn the state apartments, 
and the walls are hung with Gobelin tapestry, containing exquisite 
copies from the series of paintings executed by Rubens for Marie de 
Medicis. The park, which is about four leagues in circumference, 
is beautifully diversified, presenting varieties of wood and water, 
patches of level sward, and picturesque acclivities of the most agree- 
able character. At three o'clock, the hour appointed for the recep- 
tion, the road to St. Cloud was lined with the elegant equipages of 
the invited guests, the dazzling display of the military, and thou- 
sands of people assembled on the sidewalks to witness the gorgeous 
retinue. Arrived at the palace, the President and the Lord Mayor 
of London promenaded through the state apartments and gardens, 
accompanied by their suites, and receiving the civilities of their 
guests amid the playing of fountains and sweet strains of martial 
music, until the banqueting hour was announced. Here a scene was 
presented that reminded me very much of an American barbecue. 
The table was set in the Salle de V Orangerie, where the events of the 
18th Brumaire took place, a long and plain room measuring about 
one hundred and forty by seventy feet. As soon as the doors were 
opened, the crowd rushed in, ladies and all, making a general scram- 
ble for the edibles and wines, equal to the famous mob at the recent 
entertainment at Guildhall in London. The French officers, who 
constituted a considerable part of the company, acted on this occa- 
sion in a manner totally different from the real character of French 
gentlemen, and very disrespectfully to their invited guests. They 
contrived in the general struggle to occupy the best places at table ; 
eating and drinking half the spoils of war, spilling the remainder in 
the struggle, and swallowing more ice than might have served to 
cool the ardor of the whole French army, doubtless to mark their 
delicate appreciation of similar proceedings on the part of John Bull 
at Guildhall. But, bating these trifles, which were, perhaps, only 
concessions to English habits and tastes, we have ample reason to be 
thankful for the bounteous hospitalities and festivities at St. Cloud. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 117 

The following afternoon the Marquis and Marchioness of Nor- 
manby gave a grand reception, which may be considered as part of 
the exhibition fetes, the intention being to do honor to those who 
participated in the previous entertainments. The cards of invitation 
intimated that their "Excellencies would be at home" from three 
to six, and soon after three nearly all of the guests had arrived at 
the embassy. Each one's name was called out, and they were re- 
ceived by the ambassador, who stood at the entrance of the second 
saloon, and introduced them to the ambassadress. At four o'clock the 
President of the Republic arrived, dressed in plain clothes, as at the 
fete of St. Cloud, wearing the grand cordon of the Legion of Honor. 
Soon after he was announced the Prince gave his arm to the Mar- 
chioness of Normanby, and proceeded to a beautiful lawn at the back 
of the Hotels where seats had been placed for the accommodation 
of the company, and where they were entertained with military and 
other airs by an excellent brass band at the extremity of the lawn, 
relieved occasionally by an orchestra in the gallery of the hotel, and 
an American rope-dancer, who performed all sorts of antics in a 
manner highly creditable to his profession, and amusing those whose 
tastes run in that way. Soon after these exhibitions, the doors of 
the buffet were thrown open, and the choicest refreshments in great 
abundance were at the disposition of the company. The party was 
one of the largest and most elegant of the season. The company 
retired gradually at an early hour in order to make the necessary 
preparations for the grand ball given by M. Berger, the Prefect of 
the Seine, at the Hotel de Ville, which presented a spectacle of 
magnificence not often witnessed in the sober working world in 
which we live, and which might be called the crowning festival of 
the series, did we not remember that the spectacle of the great re- 
view in the Champ de Mars, and the dramatic representation at the 
opera the following day, were each, in their own peculiar manner, as 
splendid and as gratifying as those which preceded them. 

It is impossible to speak or write of scenes like these, if we 
express the admiration and approval which they demand, without 
using language that, to those who were not privileged to be present, 
may appear exaggerated and fanciful ; but even the cooler judgment 
of those far away, who will merely read of those scenes, will approve 
the spirit which dictated them, and look hopefully towards the good 



118 

results that must undoubtedly flow from them. In this ball of un- 
rivalled splendor, the ancient supremacy of this beautiful city in its 
own unapproachable line has been vindicated to the full. Each 
element of life, and beauty, and grace, which Paris knows so well 
how to use, was invoked and answered to the appeal. And if the 
appeal was somewhat overcharged — if invention, taxed beyond its 
powers, has here and there approached the verge of extravagance, 
we must not complain, but attribute all to a worthy and hospitable 
intention. On this occasion the entire palace was thrown open, and 
illuminated in a manner far more pleasing to look at than easy to 
describe. The company, after wending their way through a line of 
cavalry one mile in length, amid the shouts of the populace on the 
sidewalks, were ushered into the state apartments by way of the 
lofty marble staircase upon which were placed corbeils of the rarest 
flowers, intermingled with tall girandoles of gilt bronze, a blaze of 
light being poured down on the whole from chandeliers suspended 
from the roof. The landing above presented even a richer display 
of shrubs and flowers, and ail so arranged as to be in keeping with 
the hangings of the adjoining rooms. Two ball rooms were fitted 
out for dancing, the magnificent Galerie des Fetes on the one side, 
and the Salle du Trone on the other. In the former, the celebrated 
Strauss, who came up from the baths of Vichy to preside at this 
great festival with a superb orchestra, were stationed on an elevated 
stage in one end of the room, thus presenting an unbroken view of 
the entire apartment, with a long range of pillars on each side, and 
the rays of a thousand wax lights beaming on the curtains of white 
and yellow silk, on the delicate ornamental paintings of the walls, 
the many-colored flags of all nations which waved above, and the 
beauty and grace of every clime below, formed a coup d'ceil of sur- 
passing brilliancy. The Salle du Trone was also fitted up in an ele- 
gant manner, and the apartments between the ball rooms were ar- 
ranged with equal magnificence and taste. Nothing could surpass 
the beauty of the brocade furniture, tapestry, statuary, and gilt 
bronzes that every where met the eye. The open Court of Louis 
XIV. was filled with flowers, and brilliantly lit up, serving as a place 
of promenade during the night. The play of water in the fountain 
which occupied the centre of the square, and the odor of the flowers 
and orange trees placed around, were delightfully refreshing after the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. LJ 9 

heat of the crowded ball rooms. At half-past eleven the ball was at 
its height, when the President of the Republic and the Lord. Mayor 
of London made their appearance. They were received throughout 
their progress with every mark of respect, and acknowledged their 
reception by saluting on each side. It is estimated that six thou- 
sand persons were present during the evening, and the arrangements 
were so complete that not the least confusion arose. Out of this vast 
assembly our own country was well represented — citizens from nearly 
every State in the Union w r ere present, and none more largely repre- 
sented than Tennessee. 

On the following day Paris " abandoned itself," to use its own 
phrase, to a fete that all were permitted to see. The previous fetes 
were exclusive and narrowed within particular limits ; but when the 
day arrived for the grand review and sham fight, the whole city as 
it were turned out, and for the first time exhibited symptoms of 
a popular holiday. The French leap to the sound of a trumpet, and 
work themselves up into ecstasies in the midst of the roar of cannon. 
Republican simplicity and economy is utterly lost sight of and dazzled 
by the sparkle of epaulets, and only a few minds of the first order 
ever soar above the regime of percussion muskets and revolving 
pistols. At an early hour of the day hawkers cried the programme 
of the operations along all the principal streets, which were crowded 
with working men and women hurrying westward to the all-attract- 
ive Champ de Mars. The sea of humanity continued to flow in un- 
interrupted streams until three o'clock, (the hour appointed for the 
mock battle,) when the field of action was skirted by deep ranks of 
an eager, but orderly crowd. Every available point was occupied — 
housetops furnished perches for thousands. Every elevated garden 
was converted into a pile of scaffolding, tenanted by enthusiastic 
spectators armed with telescopes, etc. 

Without giving you the details of military operations, which 
would prove dry and uninteresting, I will merely sketch the general 
notion of the plan, and the character of the ground. Tha Champ 
de Mars is a large open space, bounded by trees on two sides, and 
stretching in the shape of an oblong square from one of the facades 
of the Invalides to the river Seine. The field is as turfless as the 
public square in Nashville, and about as dry and dusty. Opposite 
the centre of it a substantial stone bridge (the Pont de Vienne) 



120 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

crosses the Seine, not far from the celebrated Champs Elysees, and 
above the bridge on the opposite bank the ground rises iri steep 
heights and ridges covered with houses. The ridge is termed the 
Trocadero, and this was the place of battle. One army was sup- 
posed to be in the Champ de Mars, the other on the heights of the 
Trocadero. Those in the field were the attacking body. The bridge 
of Vienne was supposed to be well defended by the troops occu- 
pying the heights beyond it, so that it became necessary for the as- 
sailing army not only to attack the Pont de Vienne, but to throw a 
bridge of pontoons over the river, so as to attack the Trocadero 
troops in front and flank. This manoeuvre accomplished, and the 
Pont de Vienne forced at the same time, the battle was to be waged 
among the slopes of the Trocadero, until the invading party, repulsed, 
recrossed the bridge pursued by their opponents, and the engagement 
was to end in a pitched battle in the Champ de Mars. This is a 
faint description of the preconcerted plan of the manoeuvre. At 
three o'clock, the troops, having arrived from their respective barracks, 
began to take up their stations as above described. I was informed 
by an officer, that, including the artillery, iufantry, and cavalry, 
there were on the ground nearly fifty thousand men, which I suppose 
to be correct, as there are more than one hundred thousand troops 
within the barriers of Paris. Soon after the two conflicting armies 
were arranged in battle array, Louis Napoleon entered the field, on 
a noble animal, followed by a gaily uniformed staff, all mounted on 
handsome chargers, and composed of representatives of every 
French cavalry regiment, and many belonging to foreign services, 
among which I noticed English, Prussian, and Tuscan officers. The 
President as he rode along was warmly greeted by the tribunals and 
populace, which he received in a manner of becoming grace and 
dignity. He had been but a few minutes in the field when opera- 
tions commenced, and the first rush of light infantry was made 
across the bridge, supported by the fire of field artillery from both 
the lower and upper sides. Into the minutiae of the campaign, which 
lasted one hour and a half, I do not intend to enter, not being suffi- 
ciently acquainted with military tactics to give an intelligible de- 
scription. Indeed, the dust in the field created by the cavalry was 
so dense that I lost sight of part of the operations conducted in the 
vicinity of the Pont de Vienne. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AKD ASIA. 121 

The preconcerted engagement went on according to stipulation • 
the artillery on both sides of the river kept up an incessant fire ; the 
attacking columns, supported by field pieces and cavalry, rushed 
cheeringly across the bridge, and the roll of musketry swelled upon 
the breeze like the continuous rattle of drums in the distance. The 
heights of the Trocadero were thus obstinately contested for nearly 
an hour, the firing being incessant, and the movement of the troops 
exceedingly rapid, when the attacking party began to give way. 
Their drums and bugles sounded the retreat, and they recrossed the 
bridge, covered by the fire of the artillery, while regiments as yet 
unengaged advanced to receive the enemy on either flank. Some 
good artillery movement followed, the retreating party sweeping the 
bridge with their field pieces, and then retiring, covering the move- 
ment by rapid charges of cavalry as the head-quarters of the enemy's 
columns marched from the bridge. The same manoeuvres were four 
times repeated — first by the tirailleurs— - then those of the attacking 
but repulsed party retreated, and the two lines of artillery opened 
their fire. Supported in this manner, the cavalry dashed out ; their 
opponents formed into squares, and repulsed them, still, however, re- 
tiring and allowing the sharp shooters and artillery to come again 
into play. In this engagement of the contending parties was con- 
tained the whole of the strategy. I was particularly interested 
during the engagement in observing the powers, docility, and fine 
qualities of the horses of the cavalry, lancers, hussars, and cuirassiers. 
They are far superior to those in the English service, and are much 
better trained to stand the smoke of powder. In the charge these 
troops uttered a wild shrieking cry, not like the yell of an American 
Indian, but to the highest notes of a Frenchman's voice. The 
lancers in charging kept in ranks like cuirassiers, and made no show 
of using their weapons, holding the points steadily in the air. The 
cuirassiers and hussars flourished their swords, but neither made any 
use of firearms, carbines, or pistols. The sham fight being over, the 
contending armies united their strength, and defiled in long and 
magnificent procession before the President of the Republic, and dis- 
tinguished guests in the tribunes — arms presented and bands play- 
ing — marching to their respective barracks, highly delighted with 
the performances of the day. The generals in command of the 
troops were General Condit, who occupied the Trocadero, and 

6 



122 A TKNNP^SSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

General Guillabert, whose forces were stationed in the Champ de 
Mars. 

On the same evening, the long and splendid fetes of the week 
were concluded with a magnificent opera, confined exclusively to 
those who were so fortunate as to procure tickets of invitation. The 
major portion of the entertainments produced for the occasion were 
evidently chosen with a view of enabling the foreign visitors to 
form some idea of the immense musical, scenic, and terpsichorean 
resources of this celebrated place of amusement. They consisted of 
the first act of Halevy's opera La, Juive, the fourth act of Meyer- 
beer's Huguenots, and the second act of Auber's Enfant Prodigue. 
Nothing could exceed the magnificence of decoration, and the scenic 
effects with which those fragments of the glories of the opera were 
produced. But the greatest event of the evening was an operatic 
divertissement composed expressly for the occasion, and entitled Les 
Nations. In the words of the programme, the piece is in honor of 
"the Titans, who by their new conquests have brought steel and 
iron to obedience." The whole affair was gotten up to represent the 
Exhibition — the Crystal Palace, and the marvels of art, science, and 
manufacturing skill collected within it, in which ample homage 
should be rendered to the various nations which have contributed to 
that magnificent and wonderful collection. The house was crowded 
to excess, and the coup d'oeil was brilliant in the extreme — nearly the 
entire auditory being in full dress. Most of the distinguished men of 
France, with the Lord Mayor of London and his suite, were present. 

It is impossible to reflect on the brilliant scenes which I have so 
feebly described without congratulating both the hospitable enter- 
tainers and their honored guests, on what each have achieved for 
their respective countries. From first to last, Paris has worthily 
maintained her ancient character, as the city of chivalry, and the 
home of arts. The refined taste and dignified splendor which pre- 
sided over and illustrated all the proceedings, were in every way 
worthy to be remembered by all who had the privilege of participa- 
tion. The Petes of 1851 mark an epoch in the intercourse between 
France and England, from which we sincerely hope there will be 
dated the establishment of relations of peace and amity, based upon 
the surest of all foundations, a familiar acquaintance on the part of 
each with the real character and purposes of the other. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 123 



LETTER TWENTY-TWO. 

Antwerp, Belgium. 
Preparations for a Continental Tour — Arrival in Brussels — Excursion to the Field of 
Waterloo — The City of Antwerp — Catholic Antiquities — Fete of the Virgin Mary — 
Character of the Country and condition of the Government. 

Several days previous to our departure from tile gay scenes of Paris, 
the note of preparation might have been heard throughout the 
Hotel Meurice in the Rue Rivoli, somewhat louder than usual, much 
to the annoyance of the English, who generally infest the establish- 
ment ; and more particularly of our excellent hostess, who disliked 
the idea of parting with old friends, who had graced her table tfhote 
so long that she began almost to regard them as members of her 
family. Couriers and valets de place (who are generally indispensable 
nuisances) were running to and fro and changing heavy American 
trunks for light malle poste bages, and collecting for their employers 
all the little essentials requisite for a European tour ; and at the time 
appointed three parties of Americans, forming a goodly number, set 
off' together by way of the railroad for Brussels, the capital of 
Belgium, passing en route through a country wholly devoid of in- 
terest, being nothing more than a dreary plain with here and there 
an interminable avenue, small patches of vines of a short low kind, 
not trained in festoons, but about straight sticks, and a few queer old 
towns, drawbridged and walled, w T ith odd old towers at the angles 
like grotesque faces. Ruinous old buildings of all sorts, sometimes 
an hotel de.ville, sometimes a guard house, sometimes a low dwell- 
ing-house covered with lightning rods, and sometimes an old chateau 
with a rank garden prolific in dandelion, are the standard objects 
that meet the eye, repeated over and over again. The monotony, 
however, of the country was somewhat alleviated by the excellence 
and comfort of the cars, together with the politeness and strict at- 
tention bestowed on the passengers by the conductor and officers of 
the road. We reached Brussels in about eight hours, including the 
detention at the custom house, and procured excellent apartments 
at the Hotel Bellevue, situated near the King's Palace, and fronting 
on the Park, the most convenient and central part of the city. 
Brussels is a miniature Paris, and to one who has visited the French 



124 

metropolis and is acquainted with Parisian manners and costumes 
the similarity will be readily observed. Besides the language, which 
is the same, (with the exception of the lower orders, who speak 
only Flemish,) and a certain affectation of French style perceptible 
in society here, the town of Brussels has its little opera, its cafes 
like those in the Palais Royal, a palace garden, called the Tuileries, 
and its Boulevards resembling those of the city of Paris. It has a 
population of about one hundred and fifty thousand, including the 
suburbs, and contains many handsome public buildings, distinguished 
alike for beauty and architectural superiority. The King's Palace, 
Palace of the Prince of Orange, (the late King of Holland,) Palais 
de la Nation, built by Maria Theresa for the meetings of the Council 
of Brabant, Cathedral and Hotel de Ville, are all beautiful build- 
ings and much admired. In the public squares I noticed several 
monuments, statues and jets, of some merit. The Place des Martyrs 
contains a large monument, erected over the grave of more than 
three hundred Belgians, who were killed in the revolution of 1830. 
It consists of a marble statue of Liberty on a pedestal with a kneel- 
ing genius in each of the four corners. Below and around it runs a 
sort of subterranean gallery or catacomb, which contains the remains 
of the slain. And in the Place Royal there stands a bronze eques- 
trian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon that attracts much attention. The 
most remarkable object, however, is one of the jets, situated near the 
centre of the city, visited by all strangers, and regarded by the 
citizens with peculiar reverence. It is called the Manikin, and re- 
presents an ebon-looking figure in a stooping posture, spouting a 
small jet of water high in the air, to the admiration of the crowd 
that always stands around. Once every year this little figure is taken 
down, dressed up in court style, and carried round the city in state, 
followed by a large procession, and then replaced on the pedestal 
assigned for it. 

For the last few years Brussels has increased her business opera- 
tions far beyond any other period. Every branch of industry appears 
to be thriving, and more particularly her manufactures, the most re- 
markable of which is that of lace, celebrated all over the world. 
Strangers are allowed to visit these establishments and examine the 
process of lace making, which is exceedingly curious and interesting. 
" The peculiarity, in addition to the fineness, which distinguishes it, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 125 

is, that the patterns are worked separately with most microscopic 
minuteness, and are afterwards sewed on." Some of these estab- 
lishments have as many as two thousand females constantly em- 
ployed, many of whom are required to work in confined dark rooms, 
into which light is admitted only partially by a small aperture, in 
order to discipline the eye to spinning the flax to that web-like fine- 
ness which constitutes the chief excellence of the fabric. 

From Brussels the stranger always visits the field of Waterloo, a 
beautiful drive of about twelve miles through the Forest of Soigne, 
described by Byron as the Forest of Ardennes. This region of country 
has been appropriately termed the " cockpit" of Europe, as it has been 
for ages the ground upon which the powers of Europe have decided 
their difficulties. Besides the fields of Waterloo and Quatre Bras, 
through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, and the little 
village of Ramillies, where Marlborough gained one of his victories 
over the French and Bavarians, lie within the province of Brabant 
not far from the roadside. Long before reaching Waterloo we were 
assailed by guides and relic-venders, who make their living like their 
fathers before them by repeating over to every new comer the same 
stereotyped story, and selling buttons and bullets manufactured for 
the purpose, and buried in the ground a short time in order to give 
them an old rusty appearance. Each guide has at his tongue's end 
two stories — one for the English and the allied powers, and the other 
for the French and Americans — which they relate in the most enthu- 
siastic manner. 

By a natural instinct they are able to locate the visitor immedi- 
ately, and if he be an English subject, look out for the high eulo- 
gium upon Wellington and his Spartan band ; but if, on the con- 
trary, he be an American citizen, (who are supposed here to favor 
the French side of the question,) they will speak of the disadvan- 
tageous position occupied by Napoleon, and the failure of Grouchy 
in executing his orders, which resulted in the overthrow of the 
French anny. 

The best view of the field is from the top of the Mound of the 
Belgic Lion, erected to commemorate the spot where the Prince 
of Orange was wounded. It is a vast heap of earth collected from 
the field of battle, and thrown up to the height of two hundred 
feet, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie indiscrimi- 



126 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

nately together ; a flight of steps leads up to the top, which is sur- 
mounted by a huge cast lion facing France, with its right paw placed 
on a globe, conveying the idea of exultation and defiance, which 
has been denied, and said to be intended only as a memorial, a trophy 
and a tomb. The field from this eminence presents the appearance 
of a perfectly open and undulating plain of great fertility and beauty, 
and the places so renowned in history are now covered with products 
of peace and industry. The following morning our agreeable party 
that set out together from Paris found it necessary to separate, as 
our plans were different ; one party started for the cold region of 
St. Petersburg, another for the banks of the beautiful Rhine, and the 
third for this curious old city. Antwerp is a strongly fortified place, 
and contains a population of about eighty thousand. In the height 
of its splendor and prosperity, during the sixteenth century, it is said 
to have numbered two hundred thousand, and was the richest and 
most commercial city in Europe. Its merchants were princes in 
wealth, and their houses splendid palaces. " During this period as 
many as twenty-five hundred vessels were sometimes seen at one 
time, lying in the Schelde, laden with the productions of all quarters 
of the globe ; five hundred loaded wagons on an average entered 
its gates daily from the country. The amount of money put into 
circulation annually was enormous ; and five thousand merchants 
met twice every day on the exchange." The decay and fall of its 
prosperity is attributed to the establishment of the Inquisition, and 
tyranny of Alva, under the directions of his haughty master, Philip 
II. of Spain, which drove thousands of industrious citizens to seek 
refuge elsewhere ; and to the memorable siege of fourteen months 
in 1585, which ended in its capture by the Duke of Parma. Like 
Brussels, it has of late years improved very much, and although in- 
ferior to many places in a commercial point of view, it possesses 
many attractions for the stranger fond of looking at the curiosities 
of antiquity, and the works of ancient artists. It would be sufficient 
to mention the great names of Rubens (who lived here) and of Van- 
dyck, Teniers, Jordaens, Quentin Matsys, etc., who were natives of 
Antwerp, or its neighborhood, to show the high reputation it deserves 
for its encouragement of the arts. Although trade and commerce 
have deserted Antwerp, their consequences, in a variety of instances, 
particularly in the great works of art produced here, still remain 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 127 

behind; the power and genius of Rubens and Vandyck, whose 
masterpieces are still to be seen here in the museum and churches, 
are no where else to be equally understood and appreciated. 

In this city the Catholic religion has full sway ; nearly all the 
churches belong to them, and most of the citizens are attached to 
the Catholic faith. In these old buildings, several of which are very 
fine, there is much to interest one unaccustomed to such things. In 
the Dominican church there is a representation of Calvary, an arti- 
ficial eminence raised against the walls of the church covered with 
slate or rock-work, and planted with statues of saints, angels, patri- 
archs, and prophets. On the summit is a representation of the cru- 
cifixion, and at the base there is a grotto taken in imitation of the 
Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. As we entered it the body of Christ 
was presented to our view, encircled with the habiliments of silk and 
muslin ; while to the face of the rock near the entrance are attached 
boards covered and painted to represent the glowing flames of pur- 
gatory, in the midst of which appear a number of faces, bearing the 
expression of agony, and intended to remind the people of the 
sufferings of the souls of the wicked in that place of torment. The 
Cathedral of Notre Dame is one of the largest churches and most 
beautiful specimens of Gothic architecture in the Netherlands ; the 
great attraction in it, is the celebrated masterpiece of Rubens — the 
Descent from the Cross ; but, to me, the fete of the ascension of the 
Virgin Mary, taken in connection with the magnificence of the dress, 
the costliness of the jewels, and the singularity of the Catholic forms, 
constituted one of the most curious spectacles I have ever witnessed. 
On the day of this celebration, which is in the month of August, the 
whole city was crowded with people from the country, who flocked 
in with their baskets of provisions and gala apparel to witness the 
fete, affording me an opportunity which I should not otherwise have 
had of seeing the manners and costumes of the people. 

Take it all together, Antwerp is rather a queer old place ; partic- 
ularly to an American, who is so little accustomed to the old way of 
doing things. Every thing here is done according to law, which 
applies to every occupation and person, from King Leopold himself 
down to the lowest fish-monger. While walking through the streets, 
my attention was attracted to a crowd of persons standing around 
an iron railing, in which there were fifty or a hundred baskets filled 



128 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

with live craw-fish, which they were selling off at auction to the 
highest bidder; upon inquiry, I was informed that they were not 
allowed to sell them privately, but required to carry them to certain 
places established by law, and sell to the person who gives the 
highest bid. 

Belgium is one of the most beautiful and interesting countries in 
Europe ; the soil is of the best quality, and cultivated upon scientific 
principles, reminding me forcibly of the manner of culture in Eng- 
land. Since the separation of the Netherlands and the elevation of 
King Leopold to the throne, Belgium has prospered in a manner 
that surprises even her own people. 



LETTER TWENTY-THREE. 

Amsterdam, Holland. 
Trip from Antwerp to Rotterdam — The Hague — Paintings — Canals and Railroads — Appear- 
ance of Amsterdam — Excursions to Haerlem and Brock— Government of Holland, and 
Condition of the Country. 

After spending several days most delightfully in examining the an- 
tiquities of Antwerp, we took passage on a Dutch steamer for the 
city of Rotterdam, a trip occupying eight hours, and wholly devoid 
of interest. The scenery on the Schelde and Maas, like that of the 
Mississippi below New-Orleans, is entirely monotonous, having low 
banks, little or no cultivation, and inferior habitations. The banks 
of the Maas are covered with wind-mills, all of which were in full 
operation when we neared the city, presenting a scene entirely new 
to me, and so singular in appearance, that I could but reflect upon 
the ingenuity of man and the great variety of ways resorted to in 
this part of the word to reclaim lands from the water ; while we in 
America had thousands and thousands of acres high and dry, occu- 
pied only by a few straggling settlers and the wild beasts of the 
forest. These mills are nearly all occupied by families who make 
their living solely by their operations in manufactures, grinding pur- 
poses, and in pumping water off the lands, which is absolutely ne- 
cessary to protect them from the invasion of the sea. They are not 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 129 

confined alone to this region, but are scattered all over the land, as 
numerous as the sand on the sea-shore, and the stars in heaven. 
Holland is emphatically a country of wind-mills, canals, dykes, and 
ditches ; without them the visitor would fail to realize his idea of 
the Dutchman's home, and the Dutchman himself would feel very 
much like a duck out of water. 

The city of Rotterdam, since the separation of Holland and Bel- 
gium, has increased rapidly in population and commercial import- 
ance. It is built in the form of a triangle, and consists of as many 
canals as streets ; the three principal ones open in the river, and 
communicate with numerous smaller canals which intersect the 
town ; thus not only keeping the canals constantly supplied with 
water, but, by the ebbing and flowing of the lake, a circulation is 
kept up which prevents stagnation and sickness. This city, like most 
commercial places, possesses few attractions in the way of fine public 
buildings and monuments of art ; but to a stranger who has never 
seen a Dutch town before, it is particularly interesting. After pro- 
curing lodgings at the new Bath Hotel, on the Quay, sufficiently 
comfortable for one night, we commenced the work of sight-seeing, 
which is considered by experienced travellers as a matter of no 
small moment, as it involves in most instances not only expense but 
fatigue and annoyances without number. Having no special object 
to see but a bronze statue of Erasmus, erected near the centre of the 
city on a wide bridge over a canal, we occupied the afternoon in 
merely walking through the streets and observing the novel and pic- 
turesque combination of water, bridges, and shipping in the heart of 
a populous city. The buildings are mostly constructed with the 
gables facing the street, and often overhanging the foundation more 
than a foot, a peculiarity more striking in the narrow thoroughfares, 
as it frequently occurs that the houses are so close together at the 
top that the sun never reaches the inhabitants below. This is to be 
attributed to the insecurity of the foundations, the whole city being 
built on piles which must settle and give way more or less by the 
action of time. While examining the structure of the houses as we 
passed along, our attention was drawn to another Dutch custom 
which is exceedingly annoying to curious young men who delight 
in receiving the furtive glances of the fair ones. By means of little 
mirrors (spions) projecting in front of the windows, and consisting 

6* 



130 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° to eacli other, the 
one reflecting up, and the other down the street, the Dutch lady 
may see all that passes outside, without the trouble of going to the 
window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze. 
Here she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, knitting, sewing or 
reading, according to her fancy-, while we poor fellows go stumbling 
along blind to all their charms and indifferent to their gaze. 

Being excluded by this vile custom from a sight of the Dutch 
aristocracy, we determined not to be outdone, and proceeded to the 
ITirmess, a sort of fair or carnival that exhibits many peculiarities 
of character. The streets in the portion of the city where we wit- 
nessed this exhibition were lined on either side with booths, in which 
all kinds of comic representations of a low nature were presented, 
and every namable trinket offered for sale. In Antwerp, I witnessed 
the sale of craw-fish and frogs at auction, which is required by a 
municipal law ; and at this fair, gingerbread and pancakes, baked on 
the spot and cried off to the highest bidder by rosy-cheeked girls, 
seemed to be in great demand, and created more interest than all 
else besides. To a stranger who is fond of a good merry laugh, a visit 
to one of these fairs is worth, of itself, a trip to Holland ; for, aside 
from the various exhibitions and sales at auction, he is furnished 
with the opportunity of hearing national melodies and witnessing 
the peculiarities of dress and manners among the lower classes. The 
servant girls, when being hired, always stipulate with their masters 
for a certain number of holidays 'or kirmess-days ; and they swarm 
at these festivals in company with their " sweethearts," (whom they 
frequently hire for the occasion,) attend in their best gala gowns, 
the waistband of which* usually strikes them just below the armpit, 
which, together with the gold headband, curious hats, and wooden 
shoes, forms a complete picture, and subject of mirth for the stran- 
ger. 

The following morning we started to the Hague, per railroad, as 
far as the ancient town of Delft, where we changed our conveyance 
for variety sake, and tried the canal, which we found to be far more 
comfortable, although less expeditious. This railway, which con- 
nects Rotterdam and Amsterdam, the two principal cities in Holland, 
was the first constructed, and is due to the enterprise of a public 
company whose affairs are managed by a council of administrators 



131 

consisting of five commissioners and the engineer. The gauge of 
this road is two metres — six and a half feet English — from centre to 
centre of the rails, and the carriages disproportionately wide, which 
causes an unsteady and disagreeable motion. The officers of the 
road are exceedingly remiss in their attentions to passengers, and 
the Dutch customs of singing discordantly and smoking intolerably, 
render the trip absolutely disagreeable. Upon the canal, however, 
we fared much better ; the boats are large, perfectly clean, well 
managed, and make between four and five miles an hour. In this 
country many families live altogether on the water, some of whom 
were never known to sleep under the roof of a house. They take to 
a canal boat as naturally as a Westerner to a log-cabin, and have 
on board what is necessary for their wants in life. You would be 
surprised to see the largest boats drawn by women, assisted occa- 
sionally by a dog harnessed up in the manner of a horse. 

The women of Holland are universally larger and more athletic 
than the men, and with the aid of a strap fastened round the body, 
they draw for many miles boats to which we in America would at- 
tach two or more horses. Indeed, they may be said to do all the 
work of the country. In the field, shop, dairy, and all other places, 
she will be seen toiling away, while her husband is seeking his for- 
tune on the ocean, or dragging out a miserable existence in the 
army or the tap-room. 

Arrived at the Hague, which is the most beautiful city in Hol- 
land, containing upwards of seventy thousand inhabitants, the 
seat of government and the residence of the King, we proceeded 
first to the gallery of paintings, which contains some of the finest 
works of the Dutch masters. My attention was particularly drawn 
to two remarkable pictures by Paul Potter and Rembrandt, both of 
which have been much admired, and justly, by the artists of Europe. 
The picture of the first named artist represents a young bull, painted 
as large as life, and which approaches the nearest to deception of 
any really fine work of art that I have ever seen. This picture was 
carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by them fourth in 
value of all the paintings then in the Louvre. It is valued at £5,000, 
which sum was frequently offered by the Dutch government to Na- 
poleon if he would allow it to remain at the Hague. 

The other picture represents a surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended 



132 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

by his pupils, proceeding to dissect a dead body. Though an un- 
pleasing subject, it is a most wonderful production. The dead body 
is perfectly drawn, and resembles in color and appearance all the 
peculiarities of a subject. The expression of countenance given to 
the Professor and his pupils standing around the dead body is a true 
and faithful representation of a dissecting room. 

Connected with this gallery is the Royal Cabinet of curiosities, 
which contains a highly interesting collection of curious workman- 
ship from China. The costumes of that country, illustrated by figures 
of persons of various ranks, in porcelain, and objects elaborately 
carved in ivory, mother-of-pearl, soap-stone, or steatite, give most 
satisfactory insight into the manners and habits of that remote and 
highly civilized country. The Dutch are the only people who have 
been permitted heretofore to bring any thing from Japan, and con- 
sequently the extensive collection of Japan ware here exhibited is 
invaluable. Among other objects, a plan of Jeddo, the metropolis 
of Japan, attracted my attention. It was modelled by the Japanese 
with the most minute attention to details. Several hundred figures 
are introduced into it, giving a precise idea of the occupations of the 
people, the furniture of their houses, their dress, etc. 

The private galleries at the Hague are much larger and contain 
a greater variety of paintings than the public. The most extensive 
collection is that of the late King, (who died in 1849,) when Prince 
of Orange. He was a liberal patron of the arts, and left in his 
palace a large number of splendid paintings, which are now offered 
for sale. 

After rambling during the day through the galleries and streets 
of the Hague, we took the railroad, and in three or four hours found 
ourselves safely landed in this city, which may be called the Venice 
of the North. It is situated at the confluence of the river Amstel 
with the arm of the Zuyder Zee, contains upwards of two hundred 
thousand inhabitants, and is constructed in the same manner as I 
have described the city of Rotterdam. Four large canals running 
in curves parallel with a semicircular fosse on the outside of the 
walls, together with the various small canals which intersect the 
town in all directions, dividing it, as represented, into ninety-five 
islands, and traversed by three hundred bridges, render it emphati- 
cally a city of islands, lacking only the gondola to make it a Venice. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 133 

Amsterdam, like Kotterdam, has but few attractions for a stranger 
aside from the peculiarities mentioned. The streets all present an 
active appearance, and the spirit of enterprise seems to pervade all 
classes. During our stay here we have made one or two interesting 
excursions, which all travellers desirous to learn something of coun- 
try life and village customs in Holland should see. Our first was to 
the village of Haerlem, on Sabbath morning, with the view of see- 
ing a lake by the same name, which is now being drained by three 
large engines, and to attend divine service in the great church of 
St. Baron, which contains the celebrated organ of Christian Miller, 
which has become one of the lions of the continent, although sur- 
passed of late years in size and power. The lake of Haerlem, 
formed by the union of four small lakes, was eleven leagues in cir- 
cumference, and contained thirteen feet of water, covering an area 
of 45,230 acres. The States General of Holland sanctioned a plan 
for converting the bed of the lake into arable and pasture land. 
Operations were accordingly commenced in 1840, by constructing a 
water-tight double rampart or dyke and ring canal round the lake, 
into which the water is pumped up, to be discharged through sluices 
into the sea. Three enormous pumping engines were erected, each 
of which is capable of discharging fifty-three tons per stroke, which 
by constant operation have almost succeeded in converting an inland 
sea into meadows and fruitful fields. 

Having viewed the workings of these mighty engines, and seen 
the dry land yielding fruit abundantly where the waters of the sea 
were once gathered together, we repaired to the great church of St. 
Baron, and enjoyed the excellent music of its organ, which claims 
supremacy over all other instruments of the kind for its general 
beauty and sweetness of tone. While standing in the nave of the 
church listening in silent admiration to its dulcet strains, expecting 
to retire as soon as it was over, the doors were closed by an officer, 
and all ingress and egress strictly prohibited until the sermon had 
concluded. Finding ourselves in a dilemma, we determined to make 
the best of it, and quietly took a seat and listened for two mortal 
hours to a sermon that tvas all Dutch to us. The speaker was very 
vehement in his gestures, and his voice was like the sound of many 
waters, producing a wonderful influence upon his hearers, who sat 
like mummies with their heads covered with queer-looking hats, 



134 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

(which they removed only during prayer,) and arms folded with all 
the resignation of a saint. 

The following day we made an excursion to the far-famed village 
of Brock, celebrated for its beauty and cleanliness. It has about 
one thousand inhabitants, composed principally of men who have 
amassed fortunes and retired from business. There is neither horse 
nor carriage road through the place ; so we were obliged to leave 
our conveyance at a small inn on its outskirts, and to walk through 
it. " A notice on a sign-board gives warning to strangers that they 
are not to smoke without a stopper on their pipe, nor to ride through 
the village, but must dismount and lead their horse at a foot pace." 
The narrow lanes or foot paths which intersect it are paved with 
little stones and shells set in patterns, in imitation of mosaic. The 
houses are mostly of wood, very curiously constructed, and scrupu- 
lously painted two or three times during the year with white and 
green. Many of them have gardens attached, which present the 
most perfect pictures of prettiness, with their meandering walks and 
fantastically cut parterres, filled with flowers of gaudiest hue. Each 
garden is provided with a fish pond, around which are arranged 
beautiful summer houses, where the family and their guests usually 
resort in the afternoons to smoke their pipes and sip their beer, 
coffee or tea. Notwithstanding Brock has been much admired and 
praised by visitors, it is an exceedingly dull-looking village to one 
fresh from the busy streets of Amsterdam, which is attributed to the 
custom of always keeping the front door and windows closed, save 
for the entrance of the bridal pair after marriage, and for the exit 
of a corpse for burial. On our return to the city we stopped at a 
dairy farm by the roadside, where we witnessed the various processes 
of making the little round cheeses, known all over the world as 
Dutch cheeses, an article of great traffic, and source of considerable 
wealth to the province of North Holland. On entering the house 
we were provided by a young lady with wooden shoes or sabots, in 
order that we might not carry into their cleanly habitation any mud 
from our boots. At first we objected to putting them on, but being 
informed by our guide that it was a custom of the country, we readily 
complied with her request, and were introduced to the manager of 
the establishment, who was particularly polite in explaining every 
thing. The house was in the form of a square — three sides being 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AM) ASIA. 135 

appropriated for a cow stable in winter, and the othej' side, including 
the centre, was set apart for the family. The cows were all grazing 
on the meadows ; but from what I could see I will venture to say 
that they are much better lodged and cared for than nine tenths of 
the poor people of Great Britain. The pavement of this house was 
of Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, which were as smooth and 
as clean as a dining table in a Tennessee log cabin. From one end 
of the stable to the other runs a gutter, which keeps the stalls per- 
fectly dry and comfortable, while every convenience that could be 
thought of for such an establishment was here made use of. 

The industry, perseverance, cleanliness and hospitality of the 
Dutch people is universally known and appreciated. Evidences of 
these good qualities are to be seen in every part of Holland. Here 
no poverty or beggary meets the stranger's eye, but on the contrary 
all classes seem to prosper, while the wheels of government move 
quietly along, giving satisfaction to all, and insuring peace and har- 
mony to a people naturally fond of repose. 



LETTER TWENTY-FOUR. 

Heidelberg, Germany. 
Scenery on the Rhine from its Delta to Mayence — Steamboats, Rafts, and Bridges on the 
Rhine — Cologne — The Seven Mountains — Fortifications at Coblentz — Frankfort on the 
Main — The Castle of Heidelberg, etc. 

" On the banks of the majestic Rhine, 
There Harold gazes on a work divine, 
A blending of all beauties; streams and dells, 
Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, mountain, vine, 
And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells, 
From gray but leafy walls, where ruin greenly dwells.' 

The beauties of " Old Father Rhine " have been for ages past a sub- 
ject upon which the pens of the poet, the novelist, and the historian 
have alike exhausted their highest meed of praise. Intimately asso- 
ciated with the historical recollections of Roman conquests, and the 
feats of chivalric exploit in the feudal periods of the wars and 
negotiations of modern times of the coronation of kings and the 



136 A TENtfESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

welfare of the neighboring nations, it merits a reputation and pos- 
sesses an interest that no other stream that flows on earth can lay 
claim to. The course of " the great inland sea " of our own country 
is much longer, and its volume much greater ; the banks of the beau- 
tiful Ohio present a greater variety of scenery, and the natural beau- 
ties of the Hudson are infinitely superior, wanting only a few anti- 
quated castles and vine-clad terraces to complete the picture, and 
render them perfect in panorama. 

From Arnheim, where we took the steamer, as high up as a little 
village called Bonn, twenty miles above Cologne, there is nothing to 
admire in the scenery of the river. The banks are low and unin- 
teresting, as in Holland, and the villages which lie on them do not 
require any notice. At Bonn, however, the glories of the Rhine 
commence with a beautiful cluster of mountains, called the Seiben- 
gelirge, and continues to present scenes of equal beauty and variety 
as far up as the strongly fortified town of Mayence ; here the scenery 
changes again, and offers nothing pleasing to the eye until you reach 
its source as it flows down from the snow-capped peaks of the distant 
Alps. 

The steamboats on the Rhine, like all that I have yet seen in 
Europe, have few conveniences, and little or no comfort, except in 
fair weather, when the passengers abandon the close and heated 
cabins, and sit out on the deck, which is protected from the rays of 
the sun by a light awning arranged on pulleys. They are divided 
into three cabins : 1. The pavilion, usually occupied by English and 
Americans ; 2. The cabin for the continental people ; 3. The after 
cabin for servants and inferior persons. Meals are prepared on board 
at prices fixed by a printed tariff regulated by the government, and 
Rhenish wines furnished in abundance at a mere song. Three dif- 
ferent companies own these steamers, and convey annually up and 
down one million of passengers, who go as far as they choose on 
one boat, make little excursions at the various points of interest, and 
pursue their journey on the next steamer. In ascending the Rhine 
I was reminded frequently of life on the Mississippi, in seeing the 
vast floating islands of timber which the traveller constantly meets 
with on that river. The rafts on the Rhine are very large, and have 
the appearance of a floating village, composed of eight or ten little 
wooden huts on a platform of oak or deal timber. The rowers and 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 137 

workmen sometimes amount to four or five hundred, superintended 
by pilots and a proprietor, whose habitation is superior in size and 
comfort to the rest. The boatmen are often accompanied by their 
wives and families, who carry on spinning, knitting, tailoring, dress- 
making, and all other domestic pursuits. The consumption of pro- 
visions on the voyage is almost incredible, and the expenses are so 
great that a large capital is necessary to construct and float a raft. 
The bridges on the Rhine are constructed of boats lashed together 
and made fast by means of anchors, over which is placed a substan- 
tial floor twenty or thirty feet in width, and elevated about four feet 
from the surface of the water. Rafts and boats are let through by 
means of a kind of lock in the bridge ; which is nothing more than 
the detachment of four or five boats by the action of the current, 
forming a space sufficiently wide for the largest craft, and brought 
back to their proper position by machinery. The original cost of 
such bridges is much less than they would have to pay for a suspen- 
sion ; but in the end the expense of repairing the boats would coun- 
terbalance the difference, and make the new invention far preferable. 
Americans usually expect to find beautiful and agreeable cities on 
the Rhine — a conclusion formed from reading the exaggerated de- 
scriptions of letter writers, and listening to the accounts of tourists 
whose enthusiasm leads them into extremes. There is in truth no city 
or village from its mouth to its source that is any ways attractive as 
a place of residence, or even agreeable for a stranger to pass a fort- 
night. Cologne, renowned all over the world for the manufacture 
of Eau de Cologne, is the largest and most interesting place on the 
river ; interesting not on account of its beauty or cleanliness, for it 
can boast of neither, but for its historical associations and curious 
churches. Traces of the possession of this city by the Romans re- 
main not only in various fragments of walls, originally part of the 
outer defences, though not far within the city, and in the numerous 
altars, inscriptions, coins, etc., which come to light nearly every 
day ; but even in the features of character of its inhabitants, who 
are said to betray their hereditary blood, and to differ in many re- 
spects from their German neighbors on the opposite side of the Rhine. 
The existing outer walls of Cologne are considered very superior, 
and present one of the most perfect examples of fortifications of the 
middle ages, with picturesque flanking towers and gate-houses. 



138 



OR, 



They were built between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries, and 
each nearly five miles in circumference. The Cathedral of Cologne, 
begun in 1248 by Archbishop Conrad, is still incomplete, but is 
even in its present state one of the finest and purest Gothic monu- 
ments in Europe. A fresh impulse was given to the works on the 
accession of the present King, who contributed largely to its funds, 
and the efforts of an association established in Cologne, with branches 
in all parts of Europe, to collect subscriptions for completing the 
edifice according to the original design. The architect estimates 
the cost of finishing it at £750,000, and requiring the constant labor 
of the workmen for twenty years. The choir is the only part finished, 
and judging from its superior beauty and elegance, the Cathedral if 
ever completed will be one of the most uniform and most stupen- 
dous Gothic structures existing. 

" In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar is the cel- 
ebrated Shrine of the three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, who came 
from the East with presents for the infant Saviour. The skulls of 
the three kings, inscribed with their names, Gasper, Mulchioz and 
Balthuzea, written in rubies, are deposited in a case of plated silver 
curiously wrought, surrounded by small arcades, supported on pil- 
lars, inclosing figures of the Apostles and Prophets." Many of the 
jewels belonging to this chapel were taken away and sold at the 
time of the French revolution, but the precious stones, the gems, 
cameos, and rich enamels, which still remain, are said to be worth 
more than two hundred thousand pounds, which will give you a 
fair idea of its riches and magnificence in its original state. Near 
this chapel, under a plain slab in the pavement, is buried the heart 
of Mary de Medicis, and in the sacristy are many relics of saints, 
in eluding a bone of St. Matthew. Many other things of an inter- 
esting nature are to be seen in the Cathedral ; but to one fond of 
the curious, a visit to the church of St. Ursula should be made with- 
out fail. It is one of the most remarkable structures in Europe, not 
for any architectural beauty, but as the depository of the bones of 
St. Ursula's companions. According to tradition, that pious woman 
with her eleven thousand virgins set sail from Brittany for Rome, 
and were slaughtered on their return at Cologne by the barbarian 
Hans, because they refused to break their vows of chastity. " On 
entering the church these hideous relics meet the eye, beneath, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 139 

above, around ; they are built into the walls, buried under the pave- 
ment, and displayed in gaunt array in glass cases about the choir. 
The saint herself reposes in a coffin behind the altar, while the skulls 
of a select few of her associates are admitted to the Golden Chamber 
encased in silver, along with a number of other relics, such as one 
of the stone vessels which held the water that was turned into wine 
at the marriage in Cana, etc." 

Soon after leaving Cologne we came in sight of the Seven Moun- 
tains which form the commencement to the beautiful scenery of the 
Rhine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, and almost 
all crowned with a chapel, or the ruin of some ancient tower or 
hermit's cell, which adds much to their picturesque features. The 
most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, 
but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachenfels, 
whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side crowned with ruin: 

" The castled crag of Drachenfels 
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
"Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
Between the banks which bear the vine, 
And hills all rich with blossomed trees, 
And fields which promise corn and wine ; 
And scattered cities crowning these, 
Whose far white walls along them shine, 
Have strew' d a scene which I should see 
"With double joy wert thou with me." 

Many travellers ascend to the summit of Drachenfels to enjoy the 
beautiful view of the river, and to examine the ruined fragments 
which were once the seat of a noble race lonp; since extinct, named 
after the mountain on which they dwelt. Having in anticipation a 
sufficient amount of climbing in Switzerland, we were satisfied with 
a view from the river, and proceeded on to the town of Coblentz, 
situated at the mouth of the Moselle, and regarded as one of the most 
strongly fortified places in the Prussian dominions. The extensive 
fortifications, which occupied nearly twenty years to complete, con- 
nect the works on the first bank of the Rhine with the lofty citadel 
of Ehrenbreitstein on the opposite bank, forming a complete bulwark 
or fortified camp, capable of containing one hundred thousand sol- 
diers, and combining in this structure not only beauty, but a degree 



140 A TEKNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

of solidity and strength superior to any fortification that we have 
yet seen. The next place of interest above Coblentz, is the city of 
Mayence, situated on the left bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite the 
junction of the Main. It belongs to the Grand Duke of Hesse 
Darmstadt, and is the most considerable and important town in his 
dominions ; but, as the chief and strongest fortress of the German 
confederation, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austrian troops, in 
nearly equal numbers, and is commanded by a governor elected 
alternately from either nation for a period of five years. Leaving 
the Rhine at this point, we proceeded by railroad to Frankfort on 
the Main, now the seat of the German Diet, and one of the most 
lively as well as handsome cities in Germany ; it is situated on a 
perfect plain, and is divided into two distinct parts, called the new 
and old town. The streets in the new town are wide, and many of 
the houses inhabited by rich merchants, bankers or diplomatists, are 
literally palaces. " The old town, on the other hand, with its nar- 
row streets and quaint wooden buildings, with gables overhanging 
their basement stories, forms a complete contrast to the new." Many 
of the houses are of great antiquity, especially in the quarter around 
the birthplace of Goethe, the poet, and the Rothschild family, still 
inhabited by the Jews of the city. Over the door of Goethe's house 
we were shown his father's coat of arms, which, by a singular coin- 
cidence, bears the poetical device of three lyres, and is pointed out 
to strangers who visit the place by an old lady, and described in 
language too pathetic to dwell upon. The citizens of Frankfort 
have erected a monumental statue of him in the Allee or public 
place ; it is of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a superior work ; 
the subjects of the bas-reliefs are said to be taken from Goethe's 
works. The most interesting object of this nature, and the pride of 
the city, is Dannecker's statue of Ariadne, in the garden of a private 
gentleman. It is placed in a pavilion built for his reception, and is 
allowed by artists to be one of the most distinguished productions 
of modern art. I do not profess to be much of a critic in the fine 
arts, but as far as I am capable of judging, it is, next to the Greek 
Slave, the most perfect and beautiful of all modern statues. 

Frankfort is encircled with handsome gardens and agreeable 
promenades, which, together with its public galleries and places of 
intellectual resort, make it one of the most agreeable cities in Ger- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 141 

manv. One or two hours on the railroad brought us from Frankfurt 
to this old town, situated on the Neckar, and renowned for its Castle 
and University. Being surrounded on either side by lofty hills, 
Heidelberg is necessarily confined to a single street, nearly three 
miles in length, and containing about 14,000 inhabitants. The 
beauty of many places is much exaggerated, but that of Heidelberg 
cannot be too much extolled. From the ruins of the old Castle 
which overlooks the entire town and valley below, as far as the Rhine, 
a panorama is presented calculated to inspire genius, and make it a 
fit place for the student's home. As an edifice, the University, which 
was once the pride of Germany, is not remarkable. It is a plain 
and not very large house, situated in a small square near the centre 
of the town. The famous Palatine Library, carried off by the Bava- 
rians during the thirty years' war, and restored by Pope Pius VIL, 
now comprises only about 900 volumes, and the entire Library only 
120,000 volumes. In the days of its prosperity this institution was 
overrun with students from all parts of Europe ; but the desolating 
influences of war, time after time, have reduced it almost to ruin, 
and it at present numbers only three or four hundred students. 

" To those fond of the antique, the Castle of Heidelberg presents 
many attractions. The building displays the work of various hands, 
the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries ; 
it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, 
its vastness, and the relics of architectural magnificence which it 
displays after having been three times burnt, and having ten times 
experienced the horrors of war." Aside from the Castle itself, many 
interesting relics of antiquity are shown to visitors, among which are 
several old wine casks of enormous dimensions. 

In a cellar under the Castle is the famous Heidelberg Butt, con- 
structed one hundred years ago ; it is the largest wine cask in the 
world, thirty-six feet long and twenty-four feet high ; being capable 
of holding 800 hogsheads or 283,200 bottles. In former days, when 
the tierce was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to 
dance on the platform erected on the top of the tierce. It has, 
however, remained empty more than half a century, and is now 
preserved as one of the lions of Heidelberg, and as an evidence of 
the sumptuous modes of living in ancient times. 



142 A TENNESSEAJST ABROAD I OR, 



LETTER TWENTY-FIVE. 

Falls of the Rhine. 
Fashionable Watering Places in Germany — Detour to Strasburg — Cathedral at Freiburg — 
First Adventure on a Diligence — Customs — Cultivation of Tobacco and Indian Corn in 
Germany — Falls of the Rhine, etc. 

Having heard a great deal of the fashionable summer resorts in 
Germany, and feeling a little curiosity to learn something about 
their way of doing things, and compare them with our own places 
of the same character, we made visits during the gay season, both 
to Wiesbaden and Baden Baden, two of the most celebrated water- 
ing places now in Europe. Wiesbaden is the capital of the Duchy 
of Nassau, and residence of the Duke. It is composed almost en- 
tirely of lodging houses, and contains a population exceeding twelve 
thousand. The celebrity of its baths and mineral waters is so great, 
that visitors in search of health and pleasure flock there from all 
quarters of the globe, to the amount of fifteen thousand annually. 
Situated in a kind of basin, formed by the contiguity of several hills, 
and being a regularly built town, it is necessarily devoid of many 
of the chief attractions that combine to render such a place pleas- 
ant; pure air, shady groves, and fragrant breezes, are out of the 
question ; and all that one may expect to find, is strange tasting- 
water, and extensive gaming at a saloon called the Kursaal, which 
forms the centre of attraction and gayet}^ The stranger's attention 
is soon attracted, as he walks along the streets, by the clouds of 
vapor arising on all sides out of the ground, produced as is supposed 
by the numerous boiling springs that abound there. Walking 
through a long avenue of little short trees, serving as a kind of 
promenade for the water drinkers, we found the principal spring 
called the Kochbrunnen (boiling spring) sending forth its heated 
vapor in volumes, greater than the escape from a steam engine — 
giving it more the appearance of a caldron in violent ebullition, 
than a spring of w r ater fresh from the bowels of the earth. From 
five to eight in the morning, and from six to seven in the evening, 
are the hours for drinking the water ; at which time, ladies and gen- 
tlemen from the various hotels and boarding houses repair to the 
spring, and receiving their portion boiling hot, walk about, glass in 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 143 

hand, discussing its properties, until it is cool enough to be drunk. 
In taste, it is very much like chicken-broth — and if one did not 
know the fact, I believe they would not perceive the difference. In 
a bath, the water is covered with a greasy film or scum, which col- 
lects on the surface while cooling ; and which, however uninviting it 
may appear, is the test of its being quite fresh, and not having been 
used before. The temperature of this water is said to be 156° Fah- 
renheit, and the volume is so great that after being used both for 
drinking and supplying the principal baths in the city, it runs over 
and escapes through the gutters and drains into the Rhine. 

The Kursaal, alluded to above, is the most remarkable edifice in 
Wiesbaden — occupying the east side of a square, the north and south 
sides of which are lined with colonnades, filled with gay shops, serv- 
ing as a promenade in wet weather, and a sort of bazaar during the 
whole of the season. It answers the fourfold purpose of banquet, 
ball, and gaming room ; and forms, as a matter of course, the chief 
place of rendezvous for the lovers of pleasure. The establishment, 
however, of the same character at Baden Baden, called the Conver- 
sations Haus, is more extensive, and frequented usually by fashion- 
able gamblers, who bet on a magnificent scale, and consider it a 
condescension to put down any thing smaller than a gold piece. 
" It is let out by the government of Baden to a company of specu- 
lators, who pay for the exclusive privilege of opening gambling ta- 
bles £3,000 annually, and agree to spend in addition 250,000 flo- 
rins on the walks and buildings." So you may form some idea from 
this, of the vast sum of money which must be lost every summer by 
the dupes who frequent this licensed gaming house. The building 
is very large, superbly furnished, and conducted on principles differ- 
ent from any thing of the kind either in Europe or our own coun- 
try. In the afternoon, when dinner is over, the walking colonnades 
that adorn the front of the Conversations Haus become the fashion- 
able resort, and are crowded with people, sipping coffee and ices, or 
smoking ; the whole space is then covered with chairs and tables, 
and an excellent band of music is stationed close at hand to enliven 
the crowd and give zest to the occasion. After this they disperse ; 
some go to their hotels, and others, who are fond of gaming, repair 
to the brilliant illuminated hall, containing the rouge-et-noir and 
roulette tables, which are open, and occupied day and night — but 



144 A TENHESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

more particularly in the evening, when the stakes become higher 
and the excitement more intense. Betting at these tables is not 
confined, as you might suppose, to the gentlemen ; but females are 
often seen at them, and sometimes gamble higher than the men. 
As a matter of curiosity, we stood five hours one evening at the 
roulette table watching an old lady from Eussia, who played with 
as much coolness and boldness as the most inveterate gamester. 
With snuff-box on one side, and rolls of gold on the other, she 
stood in a crowded room, risking five hundred francs on nearly 
every turn of the wheel, until she lost thirty thousand francs, a sum 
of money that would be considered a small fortune by many men 
even in Germany. One would suppose that after such heavy losses, 
she would be inclined to leave off for a time ; but such was not the 
case. On the following evening, she was again at the table with 
her well-filled purse, and met with no better success — but on the 
contrary, not only lost largely at hazard, but had two thousand 
francs taken from her pocket by one of the light-fingered gentry 
who always frequent such places. 

The situation of Baden Baden is far more beautiful and better 
suited for a summer residence than Wiesbaden. Embosomed among 
hills, forming an offset to the Black Forest range, and seated on the 
banks of the Oos — a stream which, though not magnificent in size, 
once formed the boundary line between the Franks and Allemanni 
—it affords a retreat for the denizens of European cities, that is truly 
grateful and invigorating. As places of fashion and elegance, nei- 
ther of the German watering establishments can compare with New- 
port, Saratoga, or Cape May. The assembly rooms are poorly at- 
tended. The hotels are conducted on a small scale, and the visitors 
usually assort themselves into exclusive parties, which forbids any 
thing like sociability or gayety of any kind. The Conversations 
Hans, for those addicted to gaming, and the mineral waters for the 
invalids, seem to constitute the sole attraction. 

Leaving Baden Baden, we made a detour across the Rhine, foi 
the purpose of seeing the celebrated Cathedral at Strasburg — de- 
positing our baggage at a little town called Kehl, on the Germar 
shore, to avoid examination and the annoyance of custom-house 
officers, who are usually more persevering in France than any other 
country. Soon after crossing on the bridge of boats, we came in 



AND ASIA. 145 

sight of the lofty spire of the Minster, which is several miles distant 
from the river, and situated in the centre of the city. At first we 
were disappointed in the height of the edifice, but as we drew nearer 
to it, and ascended the great flight of steps that lead to its summit, 
we were fully convinced there was no exaggeration, either as to its 
altitude or beauty. Like many cathedrals in Europe, it stands in an 
unfinished state ; but to the lover of architectural symmetry, its 
perfect proportions and delicacy of workmanship cannot fail to cre- 
ate admiration. According to measurement, the spire rises four 
hundred and seventy-four feet above the pavement, twenty-four feet 
higher than the highest Pyramid of Egypt, and one hundred and 
forty feet higher than St, Paul's, in London. The view from its 
summit, although extensive, is wholly uninteresting ; presenting 
nothing to the eye but barren plains and a multitude of rusty-col- 
ored tiled roofs, with three and sometimes four stories above the 
eaves. In the interior, we were shown a beautiful marigold window, 
the glass of which was painted in the fifteenth century ; and the 
famous clock in one of the transepts, made by an artist of Stras- 
burg, to replace the old one which had fallen to decay. The full 
mechanism is set in motion at twelve o'clock ; at which time a 
number of ludicrous figures, made of wood, are exhibited, and re- 
quired to perform by some invisible means various antics, better 
suited for a puppet-show than the church of God. 

Returning to Kehl, where we left our baggage, we proceeded to 
Freiburg, per railway, which is also remarkable for its Minster. It 
is the only Gothic church in Germany which is finished, and which 
has escaped destruction from fire and the violence of war. In ap- 
pearance, it resembles very strikingly the Cathedral at Strasburg, 
and is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, 
and the good taste of its decorations. At Freiburg we passed the 
night, and were lulled to sleep by the exquisite strains of martial 
music in honor of the Prince of Russia, who had just arrived en 
route for Switzerland. The following morning we procured seats 
on the diligence for the Falls of the Rhine. Being our first adven- 
ture, we followed the advice of old stagers, and occupied what they 
call the Imperial, corresponding with the outside seat on our coach- 
es. Three in number, we started off in high spirits, expecting a 
nice day's drive. The sky was cloudless, and every thing promised 

1 



146 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

well ; but our hopes were destined soon to be changed, for we had 
scarcely emerged from the lovely valley of the Black Forest, when a 
storm dark and direful came upon us. The coupe, interieur, and 
rotonde were all crowded with phlegmatic Germans, who thought 
more of their well-filled pipes than the comfort of us poor outsiders. 
Overcoats were of no avail, and umbrellas perfectly useless, as the 
wind turned them wrong side out as fast as we raised them. For 
four long hours, we bore the pel tings of the pitiless storm like so 
many martyrs ; but at last our patience was exhausted, and in a fit 
of desperation, we ordered our trunks to be taken off at a wayside 
inn, where we passed the night. This was our first and last adven- 
ture on a lumbering diligence. After the excitement was all over, 
and we snugly ensconced around a cheerful fire discussing the im- 
politeness of European travellers, and the discomforts we had to en- 
counter, a pleasant breeze was created by the daughter of our host, 
who entered the room with a bright, merry face, bearing an old- 
fashioned clothes horse, upon which we recognised sundry familiar 
articles thoroughly drenched, which she proposed roguishly to dry, 
while we were discussing the dinner prepared for us. At the table, 
our merriment was increased by seeing two moustached gentlemen 
salute each other with a kiss, first on one side of the mouth and then 
the other, a custom that prevails in Germany ; which appears quite 
as ludicrous to an American as seeing two ladies meet and kiss 
each other in our own streets and public places. Nearly overpow- 
ered with laughter, we repaired to our chambers, where we found 
another German custom that completely did us up for the night. 
Being considerably longer than the people of this country, we found 
our beds two or three feet too short, and instead of having a pillow 
at the head of the bed, it was placed at the foot, and was so large 
that we could not determine at first whether it was intended for the 
pillow or the bed. In this dilemma, we summoned our Yankee in- 
genuity, and managed to arrange things to suit us sufficiently to in- 
sure a good night's rest, and pleasant dreams of our first adventure 
on a diligence. The following morning we procured a carriage, 
and proceeded to the Falls of the Rhine, passing en route several 
patches of tobacco and Indian corn, far inferior in size and quality 
to the crops of our Tennessee negroes, cultivated during the holi- 
days. Notwithstanding the Germans smoke more than any people 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 147 

in the world, they know nothing about the cultivation of the plant ; 
and as to the cultivation and uses of Indian corn, they are utterly 
io-uorant. 

Entering Switzerland, we soon reached the " hell of waters," as 
the Falls of the Rhine have been termed by an English poet. The 
river above the falls is about three hundred feet broad ; and the 
height of the fall is oaid to be seventy feet, although it does not look 
so high. Two isolated pillars of stone standing in the middle of the 
stream, divide the volume of water into three shutes. " The river, 
after its leap, forms a large semi-circular bay, as it were to rest itself, 
the sides of which are perpetually chafed by the heaving billows." 
English travellers and English writers always go into ecstasies about 
these falls ; but an American who has heard the roar, and seen the 
mighty rush of waters at Niagara, would pronounce it a swindle, 
and inferior even to many cataracts in the United States, that have 
no reputation beyond the sound of their waters. 



LETTER TWENTY-SIX. 

Geneva, Switzerland. 
Government of Switzerland — Character of the People — General aspect of the Country — 
Towns — Lake Lucerne — Mt. Righi — Pedestrian Tour through the Pass of the Furka and 
the Bernese Oberland — Rhone Glacier — Falls and Avalanches — Lake Leman and the 
Castle of Chillon — Geneva, etc. 

We are accustomed to look upon the little republic of Switzerland 
as " the land of liberty," isolated from the friends of free institutions 
and oppressed by the neighboring nations. No traveller from the 
United States ever enters her borders without experiencing at first 
that homelike feeling of independence and individuality that per- 
vades every part of our happy country. The air seems purer — he 
breathes more freely, and feels that he is in a country and amidst 
a people of similar institutions and sympathies. Indeed, nature and 
nature's God must have designed this mountainous region for a re- 
public — as an oasis in the great desert of political despotism. 

" The palaces of nature, whose vast walls 
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, 



148 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

And throned eternity in icy balls 
Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls 
The avalanche— the thunderbolt of snow ; 
All that expands the spirit, yet appals, 
Gather around the summits, as to show 
How earth may soar to heaven, yet leave vain man below." 

No part of the continent is so well suited for the germination of the 
seed of liberty as Switzerland ; and all that is wanting to make the 
country prosperous and the people happy, is a proper understanding 
and appreciation of the system of representation as demonstrated in 
our own country, a regeneration of her social relations, and a fair 
trial allowed her by the monarchies of Europe. It is not my inten- 
tion to trouble you as to what might be done, but to give you some 
idea of the present condition of the government and character of the 
people, as far as I am capable of judging, during a sojourn of several 
weeks. The favorable anticipations awakened by historical associa- 
tions in our mind, as we approached the land of Tell and Winkel- 
ried, were wofully falsified, for the most part, on arriving upon the 
spot. Although democratic principles have made rapid strides in 
almost all the countries since 1830, we ascertain, upon inquiring into 
the political state of this country, that the government is nearly 
powerless — a confederacy without unity — split into parties by re- 
ligious dissensions and opposing political interests — and nearly every 
canton either torn by contending factions, or actually split in two, 
and as much dissevered as though it consisted of two separate states. 
In times past the united and valiant forces of the little republic not 
only withstood the shocks of foreign invasion, secure in the mountain 
fastnesses, but shattered and annihilated the apparently overwhelm- 
ing armaments of Austria and Burgundy, not in one battle, but in 
nearly every action in which they were engaged ; and now T she must 
submit to every thing, and, as a necessary consequence, must endure 
the diplomatic insults heaped upon her on all sides. The demoral- 
izing effect produced upon the Swiss by that system of foreign mili- 
tary service, which they thought had become necessary to the exist- 
ence of the community, the overpowering deluge of the French 
Revolution, and the great influx of travellers for the last half century 
have contributed largely to bring about this result. Instead of find- 
ing those simple and guileless manners, which in times past were 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 149 

associated with the name of the inhabitants of these mountains, we 
encountered a people who are actuated by a spirit of time-serving 
and a love of money that is really surprising. Every where that we 
nave stopped, and more particularly on the main routes of travellers, 
we had to contend with extortionate inn-keepers, obsequious valets, 
and beggars without number, who infest every village, waterfall, and 
post station in the country. Patriots are scarce in the land of Tell ; 
and the people who have enjoyed freedom longer than any other in 
Europe, are principally distinguished for fighting the battles of any 
master, however tyrannical, who will give the highest price for their 
services. 

The poverty of the land, its slight capabilities of improvement, its 
deficiency of resources in proportion to the extent of its population, 
have compelled the Swiss to resort to manufactures for a livelihood. 
Notwithstanding the natural disadvantages of an inland country, 
into which the raw material must be conveyed almost exclusively on 
the axle, over snowy passes, and by long journeys, they have been 
overcome ; and in the excellence of her manufactured articles Swit- 
zerland now competes, as shown in the Exhibition, with any country 
in Europe, not excepting even England. 

With regard to the natural beauties of Switzerland, there can be 
but one sentiment of admiration. The sublimity and diversified 
grandeur of its scenery is unequalled, perhaps, by any country in 
the world. The presence of the Alps covered with perpetual snow 
and reflected in the crystal waters of an hundred lakes — the singu- 
lar appearance of the glaciers — the music of the waterfalls, and the 
fearful sound of the distant avalanche, the thunderbolt of snow, 
constitute its chief features of attraction, and combine to create in 
the mind of the visitor those thoughts and feelings so eloquently 
described in the lines of Rogers, in his description of the Alps : 

" Who first beholds those everlasting clouds — 
Those mighty hills, so shadowy, so sublime, 
As rather to belong to heaven than earth — 
But instantly receives into his soul 
A sense, a feeling, that he loses not — 
A something that informs him 'tis an hour 
Whence he may date henceforward and for ever V* 

Aside from the natural peculiarities of Switzerland, we were much 



150 

interested in the appearance of her towns, some of which exhibit 
many curious marks of antiquity ; their buildings are frequently 
found unchanged since a very early period ; and in Lucerne, Frei- 
burg, Basle, Berne, and in several other instances, the feudal fortifi- 
cations, with battlements and watch-towers, remain perfectly pre- 
served. In nearly all of them are to be seen in the public places 
fountains consisting of a Gothic ornamented pillar, surmounted by a 
figure of a man, usually some hero of Swiss history, or the figure of 
some animal or bird peculiar to each canton, and regarded as almost 
sacred by the people. In Berne they have great reverence for the 
bear, and not only have his effigy on the coins, sign-posts, fountains, 
and public buildings of the canton, but keep living specimens of 
their favorite, maintained at the public expense. " The connection 
between the town and the animal is accounted for by the ancient 
tradition, that on the day on which Berchtold laid the foundation of 
Berne, an enormous bear was slain by him on its destined site. In 
1798 the French army took possession of Berne, and led the bears 
away as captives to the city of Paris, where they were deposited for 
safe keeping in the Jardin des Plantes. After a series of years, the 
ancient order of things was restored at Berne, and Martin, their an- 
cient pensioner, was returned to his home, where he is still provided 
for by the city authorities, and exhibited to strangers as one of the 
curiosities of the place. 

No country in Europe has so many peculiarities of manner, cus- 
toms and costumes, as are to be seen in Switzerland. Each canton 
possesses some distinguishing characteristics, and it is really sur- 
prising to see people living so near to each other and differing so 
widely in their habits and manners of dress. This difference is con- 
fined in a great measure to the females, who remain at home and do 
all the work, retaining their ancient simplicity, while the men are 
travelling about as volunteers, mountain guides, or soldiers for some 
other government. 

At the Falls of the Rhine, where we entered Switzerland, we pro- 
cured a char-a-banc and proceeded to Lucerne, by way of Zurich, 
one of the handsomest and most flourishing towns in the republic — 
crossing the high chain of the Albis, and passing through the most 
desirable portions of the country. This was our first, and I hope the 
last adventure in a char-a-banc, which my travelling companion from 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 151 

South Carolina and myself concurred in pronouncing inferior in 
point of looks and comfort to an Irish jaunting car — so much dreaded 
by the English. If you wish to see this vehicle, take the body of 
an old-fashioned gig, and place it sideways on one of our rock 
wagons, to which you must attach two bone-yard horses in tandem, 
by means of rope traces, collars running in a conical shape about 
two feet higher than the horse's neck, and bridles very like those 
used by the ploughmen of the West — and you will have the whole 
turn-out in perfection. 

Lucerne is the residence of the Papal Nuncio, and is beautifully 
situated on the borders of Lake Lucerne, which is considered by 
many as the finest and most interesting of the Swiss lakes, between 
the giant Pilatus and Bighi, and in sight of the snowy Alps of 
Schuytz and Engelberg. It is not a place of any considerable trade, 
but the absence of this is more than compensated by the picturesque 
beauty of the mountain crowned with old feudal watch-towers, and 
the placid waters of the lake rippled only by the paddles of pleasure 
boats, and the struggles of the weary stag fleeing from the hunter's 
coil. 

It was here that we left the great highway and made the neces 
sary preparations for ascending Mt. Righi — a description of which 
may be of interest, as it will convey to you some idea of Alpine pe- 
destrian journeys. Our first care was to procure a knapsack similar 
to those used by our volunteers in the Mexican war, in which we 
placed a change of garments and sundry little requisites, such as 
Murray's hand-book and Kelley's road map of Switzerland ; in addi- 
tion to which we were provided with waterproof coats, double-soled 
shoes filled with hob-nails, a flask to hold brandy or krischwasser, 
and an alpenstock, all of which are indispensable upon mountain 
journeys. The alpenstock is a pole about six feet long, with an iron 
spike at one end for use, and a chamois' horn for show at the other. 
Those who have tried it, can fully appreciate its uses as a staff and 
leaping-pole, but chiefly as a support in descending the mountains ■ 
it then becomes, as it were, a third leg. It enables one to transfer a 
part of the weight of the body from the legs to the arms, which is 
a great relief in descending long and steep hills. By the aid of it, 
the chamois-hunters glide down snow-covered slopes almost perpen- 
dicular, checking the velocity of their course when it becomes too 



152 - 

great, by bearing back, and driving the point deeper in the snow. 
In crossing glaciers, it is also very useful, to feel the strength of the 
ice, and ascertain whether it be free from crevices and able to bear 
the weight. From Lucerne we went to "Weggis on the lake boat, 
where we commenced the toilsome ascent of Mount Righi, which is 
situated between the lakes of Zug and Lucerne, and is celebrated on 
account of its isolated position ; separated from other mountains, in 
the midst of some of the most beautiful scenery in Switzerland, afford- 
ing an uninterrupted view on all sides, and serving as a natural ob- 
servatory, commanding in clear weather a panorama hardly to be 
equalled in extent and grandeur among the Alps. It has also the 
advantage of being accessible ; no less than three mule paths lead 
up to the summit, so that it is daily resorted to in the summer by 
hundreds of travellers from all parts of the world. 

From Weggis the path is less steep and a little shorter than the 
other two, winding along the outside of the mountain in constant 
view of the lake, furnishing something to please and interest at 
every step. At the end of each mile there is a resting place and a 
fresco painting, representing our Lord's Passion, where the weary 
traveller halts to draw his breath and inquire how much farther it 
is to the Culm or mountain house. After walking pretty steadily 
for about three hours, we encountered great quantities of snow, 
which had fallen the previous night, rendering our farther progress 
extremely difficult and disagreeable ; but as we had a fearless guide 
who was well acquainted with the landmarks and accustomed to 
wading through such obstructions, we hurried on, and at last reached 
the summit, after climbing five long hours. The Culm, or culmi- 
nating part of the mountain, is an irregular space of ground of some 
extent, destitute of trees, and covered nearly always with snow. 
Here we found a large inn, constructed of wood, and capable of 
affording tolerable accommodation, considering the height, for about 
one hundred persons, although double this number sometimes 
manage to pass the night under its roof. He that happens to be 
on the summit of Mount Righi in clear weather, may consider him 
self exceedingly fortunate, as but few are allowed that privilege, the 
atmosphere being almost always filled with a cloudy vapor that as- 
cends perpendicularly from the valley, enveloping the mountain, and 
rendering a view utterly out of the question. At times, however 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 153 



the mist disappears, and the glories of the morning sun are revealed 
to the wonder-stricken pilgrim in all its grandeur. A glare of light 
in the east, which gradually dims the flickering of the stars, is the 
first token of its appearance ; it soon becomes a streak of gold along 
the horizon, and is reflected in a pale pink tint upon the snows of 
the Bernese Alps. Summit after summit gradually assumes the 
same glittering hue ; the darkness between the horizon and the 
Culm is next lighted up ; forests, lakes, hills, rivers, towns, and vil- 
lages become more and more distinct, and the whole panorama is 
spread out before you in all its wonder and diversified beauty. On 
one side the lofty chain of the Albis, running parallel with the Zu- 
rich, and the distant range of the Black Forest hills in Germany, 
are visible to the eye ; on another, the Jura chain, the town of Lu- 
cerne, with its coronet of towers, and Tell's Chapel, on the spot 
where he shot the tyrant Gessler ; on another, the beautiful lake of 
Lucerne and the magnificent white chain of the high Alps of Berne, 
Unterwalden, and Uri, in one unbroken ridge of peaks and glaciers ; 
and lastly, the Alpine chain, which extends uninterruptedly along 
the horizon, including the pre-eminent peaks of Doedi, Glaerwisch, 
and Sentis, while the middle distance embraces the region famous in 
history as the cradle of Swiss freedom, and the bloody conflict be- 
tween Suwarrow and Massena. 

After taking a satisfactory survey of this wide-spread panorama, 
extending over a circumference of three hundred miles, we descend- 
ed by way of the same path to Weggis, where we met the little 
steamer and proceeded through the lake of the Four Cantons to 
Fluellen, situated in the midst of what they here call Tell's country. 
The scenery on this lake is unsurpassed in Europe, and is celebrated 
not only for its beauty, but the many historical associations con- 
nected with it. Its shores are a classic region, the sanctuary of lib- 
erty, and memorable events are here recorded which will ever be 
dear to the lovers of freedom. A short distance beyond Fluellen is 
the little village of Altorf, the capital of the canton of Uri, the poor- 
est and least populous in the confederation. Its only claim to in 
terest the traveller is in connection with William Tell. Our guide 
pointed out to us a stone fountain, on the public square, surmounted 
with statues of the dauntless crossbowman and his child, which is 
said to mark the spot where he stood when he shot the apple off his 

>7* 



154 

son's bead. Near this fountain there is another to perpetuate the 
spot where the lime tree stood, upon which Gessler's cap was stuck, 
for all men to do obeisance to it as they passed, and to which the 
child was bound, to serve as a mark for his father's bolt. 

Leaving this region, we passed the Devil's Bridge, crossed the 
snow-covered Furca, and reached in safety, after two days' travel, 
the Hospice of the Grimsel, an inn of the rudest kind, originally 
occupied by monks, who entertained those who travelled from neces- 
sity, and afforded gratuitous aid to the poor, but now daily occu- 
pied, during the summer months, by travellers for pleasure. It is a 
massive building, of rough masonry, designed to resist a weight of 
snow, and with few windows to admit the cold, which is disagreeable 
in the warmest season. Its situation is dreary in the extreme, in a 
rocky hollow, upwards of a thousand feet below the summit of the 
pass, surrounded by soaring peaks and steep precipices. During 
the winter one servant remains in the house, with a sufficient provi- 
sion to serve during the period of his banishment, and several dogs 
to find out the approach of wanderers ; for even in the depth of 
winter, this snow-bound habitation is resorted to by traders from 
Hasti and the Vallais, who exchange the cheese of one valley for the 
wine and spirits of the other. In the neighborhood of the Hospice 
are two of the most remarkable glaciers of Switzerland, the Aar and 
the Rhone. The former is eighteen miles long and from two to 
four broad, but is covered to a great extent with rubbish, which 
mars its beauty ; while the Rhone presents a face as clear and daz- 
zling as a sunbeam. It fills the head of the valley from side to side, 
and appears piled up against the shoulder of the Gallenstock, whose 
tall peak overhangs it. It is impossible to give you a correct idea 
of this " magnificent sea of ice ;" its extent, thickness, yawning cre- 
vices,, variety of formation, and extreme purity, are truly wonderful. 
The river Rhone is supplied from a cavern of ice beneath this gla- 
cier, which is estimated at 5,400 feet above the sea. Remaining 
all night at the Hospice of the Grimsel, we started early the next 
morning for Grindelwald, stopping en route at Handek, near which 
are the falls of Aar, considered the finest in Switzerland. They are 
more than two hundred feet high, which, taken in connection with 
the quantity and rush of water, the gloom of the gorge into which 
it precipitates itself, and the wild character of the rocky solitude 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 155 

around, renders it far more interesting to the traveller than either 
the Reichenbach, Giesbach or Staubbach, all within a circuit of fifty 
miles, and each possessing more celebrity on account of their being 
accessible and situated nearer Interlachen and Thun, the favorite 
summer resorts of the English. Grindelwald is decidedly one of 
the most romantic places in Switzerland, being situated in a valley 
formed on one side by the Eigher, or Giant, the Mittenberg, (middle 
mountain,) and the Wetterhorn, (Peak of the Tempests,) between 
which issue out two magnificent glaciers, bordered with forests of 
fir, which form, as it were, a graceful fringe to the white ice, while 
the verdant meadows, with which they are almost in contact near 
their bases, contrast agreeably with the frozen peaks above. Long 
before we reached the mountain village, our ears were saluted with 
the shrill sound of the alpine horn, blown by an old soldier, living 
in a small chapel, who makes his bread by the charity of strangers, 
who always stop and listen to his wild music. The horn is simply 
a rude tube of wood six or eight feet long, without ornament or 
beauty ; but the sounds that emanate from it are truly wonderful, 
particularly when returned to the ear by the echoes repeated from 
the tall cliffs of the Wetterhorn, refined and softened like an aerial 
concert among the crags. We were also entertained on the road- 
side, as we descended into the valley, by young females, who pick 
up a few batzen by singing Ranz des Vaches — certainly the wildest 
chorus that ever was heard by human ears, not excepting even the 
songs of our Indian hunters. The Swiss song is not composed of 
articulate sounds, but one in which the voice is used as a mere in- 
strument of music, more flexible than any which art can produce — 
sweet, powerful, and thrilling beyond description. 

Pursuing our journey, we passed through Interlachen, Thun and 
Berne, to Vevay on Lake Leman, near which is the famous castle 
of Chillon, familiar to all who have perused Byron's Prisoner of 
Chillon. Before reaching Vevay, we met some of our dearest 
friends, with whom we crossed the mighty deep, and separated in 
Belgium, with the understanding that we should soon meet again 
and continue our journey together ; but they had changed their 
route, and we parted once more, and finally, I fear ; for when travel- 
lers divide in Europe, there is no certainty of their coming together 
again. While we were interchanging salutations, and plans of 



156 



OR, 



travel, the diligence left me far behind, and it was in vain that I ex- 
erted my pedestrian powers to overtake it ; the delivery of the mail 
was of more importance to the conductor than the comfort or con- 
venience of a passenger. I did not regret this, however, as I was 
repaid for a walk of ten miles by beholding a beautiful sunset on the 
snow-covered hills that bound the horizon of Lake Leman. I was 
all alone, descending the long slope of the mountain by a serpentine 
road, and gazing in wonder and admiration upon the spots that in- 
spired the genius of a Kousseau, a Byron, and other gifted authors. 
It was an evening for reflection ; thoughts of the past, the glories 
of the present, and the bright hopes of the future, all conspired to 
create emotions that will not soon be forgotten. 

The following morning we drove along the shore of the lake to 
the renowned castle of Chillon, romantically situated on an isolated 
rock, surrounded by deep water, but within a stone's throw of the 
road, with which it communicates by a wooden bridge. The castle 
is now converted into a magazine for military stores, but is always 
shown to strangers by a young woman of some beauty, who dilates 
considerably upon the " good old times," etc. We were ushered 
through the dungeon where Bonnivard was confined, saw the ring 
in the pillar to which he was chained, and the stone floor at its base, 
worn by his constant pacing to and fro. This pillar is a record of 
the past, being covered all over with the handwriting of tourists 
desirous of associating their names with those who have acquired 
greatness and renown. Among many hundred I observed those of 
Byron, Shelley, Rousseau, Sue, Dana, and Peel, who have visited the 
castle and communicated their impressions to the world in terms too 
familiar to dwell upon. Leaving Chillon, we proceeded upon the 
deep blue waters of the lake to Geneva, the metropolis of Switzer- 
land, stopping a short time at Lausanne, the place where Gibbon 
wrote his celebrated work on the rise and downfall of the Roman 
Empire. 

Geneva is one of the most beautiful and active inland cities in 
Europe. It is the great focus of attraction for travellers of all na- 
tions, fifty thousand being the number calculated to pass through 
the city annually. The river Rhone divides the city into two parts, 
the water of which is so very blue that it resembles the discharge 
of indigo from a dyer's vat. " As a town, Geneva possesses but few 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 157 

attractions ; it has no fine public buildings, and scarcely any sights" 
It is owing to its beautiful environs, to the commanding view of 
Mont Blanc, to the charming scenery of its lake, and to its position 
on the great high road from Paris to Italy, that it has become a 
place of so much resort and importance. 



LETTER TWENTY-SEVEN. 

Simplon Pass, Switzerland. 
Valley of Chamouni — Ascent to the Mer de Glace — Adventure — View of Mont Blanc from 
the Flegere — Hospice of St. Bernard — Dogs — Monks — Morgue — The Simplon Road, etc. 

Leaving the shores of Lake Geneva, we proceeded in a diligence 
through a very uninteresting country into Savoy, one of the depend- 
encies of the Sardinian government. Although this route is much 
travelled during the season by visitors to the valley of Chamouni, it 
possesses but few facilities and conveniences to enhance one's com- 
fort. The hotels of Switzerland, as a general thing, are excellent ; 
but in this particular region a person may undertake to keep the 
seventh day without any danger of breaking it : man and horse are 
entertained in the same house, and their food about on a par, with 
the exception of the cooking — beds of straw and one waiter for all. 
The monotony of the country and the inferiority of the hotels were 
almost forgotten when we thought of the many beauties in reserve 
for us at Chamouni, and observed the peculiarities of manner and 
custom presented for our contemplation, as we jogged along in the 
slow-going diligence. It happened to be one of the days set apart 
by the people for a public fair or exhibition of the stock of the 
neighborhood. The women seemed to be the chief managers of the 
show, as every one we met was driving a black pig with a cord 
fastened around the neck and body, or leading a cow by the horns 
to the village near by. For curiosity, we sallied out into the public 
square to see how such fairs were conducted, and to examine the 
nature of the animals offered for sale. Taking us to be persons wish- 
ing to buy, a buxom young girl, about sixteen, approached us and 
commenced dilating upon the fine qualities of a large milch cow 



158 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

that we happened to be noticing. She talked so glibly, knowingly 
and earnestly, that we were disposed to humor the joke, and ask 
questions about the age of the cow, etc. ; whereupon she immedi- 
ately lifted the head of the animal, opened its mouth, and showed 
us the marks on the teeth and the ring on its horns, with as much 
self-possession and accuracy as the most experienced cow dealer. 
When she had finished we thanked her for the information she gave 
us, and told her that we were not purchasers, but merely travellers 
from a distant land who wished to see every thing in her country. 
Wishing us a happy and prosperous journey, she turned to a real 
customer and disposed of her cow. 

When we reached the village of Chamouni it was after night-fall, 
and the little square in front of our hotel was illuminated with 
torch-lights by the friends of an Englishman who had been seen 
through a telescope during the day on the summit of Mont Blanc. 
At twelve o'clock the hero returned with a long retinue of guides, 
and expatiated largely to an eager crowd on the many trials, 
troubles, difficulties and dangers that he had to encounter, wondered 
how any human being ever summoned courage to perform such a 
feat, and thanked God that he was spared to return once more to a 
habitable region and receive the congratulations of his English friends. 

Taking his word for it, we concluded not to ascend Mont Blanc 
so high, but compromised by going to the Mer de Glace, which is 
neither difficult nor dangerous. Just before reaching Montanvert, a 
place where refreshments are kept for the accommodation of visitors 
during the season, we had quite an adventure. One of our party, a 
gentleman from Boston, concluded he would try the velocity of a 
stone down the mountain, and accordingly set one in motion, which 
unfortunately came in contact with a cow before it rolled very far, 
and to our astonishment the poor animal was hurled with incredible 
speed to the foot of the mountain. Knowing that we could be of 
no service to the creature after such a roll, we continued our journey 
to the Mer de Glace, which is one of the most beautiful sights in 
Alpine scenery, and wonderful beyond description, The view of 
this enormous sea of ice is one of the most striking of these scenes 
of wonder ; its great extent, the beauty of its purity, the color and 
depth of its crevices, surrounded by a thousand nameless pinnacles, 
render it enchanting and romantic in the extreme. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 159 

Many persons cross the Mer de Glace, and go as far as the Jardin 
or island in the ice ; but we dispensed with that privilege — de- 
scended the mountain by way of the Glacier, and ascended a moun- 
tain called the Flegere on the opposite side of the valley of Chamouni, 
which affords one of the best views of Mont Blanc. Near the sum- 
mit of the Flegere is a small chalet, where we procured a very good 
dinner, served in a homely way, but very palatable to a hungry man. 
After discussing our dinner, we went out and watched the last rays 
of the setting sun, sinking behind the snow-covered peak of Mont 
Blanc. The valley beneath was invisible, and we were separated 
entirely from the inhabitants of the village by a cloud that was as 
dark and impenetrable as night itself. The panorama presented a 
picture of singular grandeur and beauty — the time was auspicious, 
the associations grand, and its recollections imperishable. Returning 
to Chamouni, we found the owner of the cow we had killed and the 
syndic of the village awaiting our arrival. The case was properly 
presented on the part of my friend, who contended that it was an 
accident. After a great deal of talking and ten thousand gesticula- 
tions, my friend was permitted to go, provided he remunerated the 
owner of the cow. 

Leaving Chamouni the following morning, we passed through the 
Tete Noire to Martigny, and thence to the snow-covered pass of St. 
Bernard, where we were entertained one night at the Hospice by the 
monks, who devote their lives to the service of their fellow-men 
whose pursuits oblige them to traverse these dreary fields in seasons 
of danger, and the weary traveller who visits their lonely habitations 
through curiosity. The Hospice is a massive stone building, well 
adapted to its perilous situation, which is on a very high point of 
the pass, and exposed to the heavy storms of winter. The building 
is capable of accommodating more than one hundred persons com- 
fortably ; the monks are unremitting in their attentions, and charge 
nothing for their services — leaving it to the option of the guests to 
place what they choose in a small bag in the chapel. The room 
appropriated to visitors is large and convenient; it is hung with 
many drawings and prints, and is furnished with an excellent library 
and piano. About the house I saw several St. Bernard dogs, which 
are altogether different in their appearance from what I had sup- 
posed ; instead of having long hair, it is short and thick, and their 



160 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

general appearance is very like the large-sized cur of our country — 
they are very heavy and strong, and capable of enduring more than 
any other animal. Near the Hospice is what they term the Morgue, 
or place where they expose the dead bodies found in the snow, which 
are placed in the frozen position in which they were found ; it is a 
place of melancholy interest, containing the remains of the unfor- 
tunate victims for ages past No one can visit the Hospice of St. 
Bernard without the satisfaction of being amply compensated for 
his pains. 

Taking leave of the good old monks, we returned to the village 
of Martigny, and are now wending our way through deep snows 
over the celebrated Pass of Simplon into Italy. 

This remarkable road was built by Napoleon soon after the battle 
of Marengo, with the view of facilitating the communication between 
France and Italy, and the ultimate subjection of the latter. It was 
the first carriage road constructed across the Alps, and now stands 
as one of the monuments of Napoleon's greatness. To give you 
some idea of the colossal nature of the undertaking, it may be men- 
tioned that the number of bridges, great and small, constructed for 
the passage of the road, exceeds six hundred, in addition to the 
more vast and costly constructions, such as terraces of massive 
masonry, miles in length, of ten galleries, either cut out of the 
stone, or built of solid limestone, and of twenty houses of refuge to 
shelter travellers, and lodge the laborers constantly employed to take 
care of the road. The cost of this road is said to have averaged 
four hundred thousand francs per league. The travel over the 
Simplon road has gradually increased, and it is at present one of the 
greatest thoroughfares in all Europe. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 161 



LETTER TWENTY-EIGHT. 

Milan, Italy. 
First Town in Italy — Lago Maggiore — Passports — Examination of Luggage — Milan — Recep- 
tion of the Emperor — Excursion to Lake Como, etc. 

" Italy! how beautiful thou art ! 
Yet I could weep ; for thou art lying, alas ! 
Low in the dust : and we admire thee now 
As we admire the beautiful in death!" 

Crossing the Alps over the great Simplon road, we passed the first 
night in a neat little village near the border, called Domo d'Ossola. 
It was our intention to go on as far as Baveno, situated on Lago 
Maggiore; but owing to the depth of snow on the Pass, our progress 
was impeded, and we were compelled to lie over until the following 
morning. Domo d'Ossola is a small and unimportant town, with 
few points of interest, save that it is Italian, which was quite enough 
for us in the beginning. The peculiar construction of the houses, 
with their many-shaped chimneys, colonnades, streets with awnings, 
shops filled with sausages, maccaroni, and garlic — lazy-looking 
monks, apparelled in brown-colored gowns, with bare mahogany- 
looking legs, intermixed with donkeys, well-fed priests, and females 
veiled with- the mantilla, combined to complete a picture at once 
novel and curious to our eyes. 

At Baveno we left the diligence and made an excursion in a 
small sailing boat to the Borromean Islands, situated in the upper 
and most beautiful portion of the lake. These islands are two in 
number, originally barren rocks, now rendered beautiful by the hand 
of art. Isola Bella consists of ten terraces, the lowest built on piers 
placed in the lake, rising in a pyramidal form, one above another, 
and covered with statues, obelisks, vases, and other ornaments. 
There is a very good hotel on the island, and a garden filled with 
all kinds of exotics; the orange, citron, myrtle, and pomegranate 
flourish in abundance, and I have also observed the aloe, cactus, 
sugar cane, coffee plant, and a camphor tree upwards of twenty feet 
in height. The Isola Madre is somewhat larger than the former, and 
situated near the centre of the lake, from which there is a lovely 
view of the snow-clad Alps, the Simplon Pass, and innumerable 



162 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

little villages on the borders of the water. This island has more 
natural beauty than the Isola Bella, and also contains a garden 
worthy of the highest praise. 

Leaving our little boat at this point, we boarded the steamer and 
proceeded to the other extremity of the lake, where we rejoined the 
diligence at a small town called Sesto Calende, on the Austrian fron- 
tier. Here we had a deal of trouble with our passports, luggage, etc. 
Not satisfied with booking minutely every item in our passports, they 
tumbled the contents of trunks about with as much nonchalance as 
an old sailor would a wallet of worn-out clothes. Forgetting that 
we had to undergo an examination, our weapons were left in the 
trunks, and unfortunately discovered by the Austrian police. The 
first thing discovered was a six-barrelled revolver, then a stiletto, 
balls, powder, caps, etc., all of which were drawn out one by one, 
to the consternation of the bystanders, and to the discomfiture of 
the owner, who rather feared the consequences, knowing that they 
were contraband, and that two Americans had recently been im- 
prisoned for much slighter causes. One of the officers intimated 
that it looked rather suspicious, talked of imprisonment, etc. ; but 
fortunately the captain of the boat came to our assistance, and vol- 
unteered to carry them back to the Sardinian government and for- 
ward them to Genoa, where they have been received. This difficulty 
was hardly disposed of when another one arose between a chestnut 
woman and a Boston Yankee, who happened to be in the diligence. 
He purchased her chestnuts, and she, Italian-like, wanted to cheat 
him out of a penny ; while he, true to his breeding, resisted " at all 
hazards and to the last extremity." The dispute grew higher and 
higher — the crowd gathered around and sided with the woman — 
and at last the police interfered, and the Yankee got his penny. 
Laughing heartily at the scene just narrated, we rolled on over the 
Simplon road through antique villages to the city of Milan. It was 
night when we entered the massive portal of the Arco de la Pace. 
The spire of the great cathedral was illuminated, and the figure of 
the Madonna on the summit shone so brightly that its rays were visi- 
ble at the distance of many miles. Driving through the Corso, 
which is a well paved and handsome street, we arrived at a magnifi- 
cent house, called the Hotel de la Ville, guarded by Austrian soldiers, 
and the great place of attraction for strangers, who were curious to 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 163 

witness and participate in the pomp and parade exhibited at the re- 
ception of the youthful Emperor, Francis Joseph. The following 
day was Sunday, and the whole city seemed to be alive with the 
military ; white coats and epaulets were to be seen in all directions, 
busy about the arrangements of the day, as the entire reception de- 
volved upon them, the citizens refusing to have any thing to do with 
the young tyrant — not even the bestowal of ordinary civilities. At 
the hour of ten the different regiments, mustering upwards of sixty 
thousand, were assembled on the parade ground near the Arco de la 
Pace, and called the Piazza d'Armi. It was a magnificent sight : 
every thing was conducted with perfect order, and the various evo- 
lutions of a military review were displayed to the Emperor, in all 
the pomp and circumstance usual on such occasions. 

This being over, he was conducted by this strong guard through 
the principal streets of the city to the great cathedral, where he knelt 
and repeated to himself his prayers, while the people stood gazing 
with vulgar curiosity, anxious to see how the youth bore his honors, 
and wishing in their hearts any thing but good for his welfare. In 
appearance, Francis Joseph is tall and slight, rather awkward in ad- 
dress, and wanting in the usual marks that distinguish nature's great 
men. His reception here must have been any thing but gratifying; 
there was no enthusiasm, and the people seemed utterly indifferent 
whether he approved or disapproved of their conduct. During his 
stay here he feared to remain in the city at night, but went out every 
afternoon to a fortified town in the neighborhood, and returned the 
following morning guarded by a regiment of cavalry. How differ- 
ent is it with our President, elevated voce populi, and moving among 
them without fear in the streets of our capital, unguarded and un- 
attended. The more I see of the governments of Europe, the more 
I admire and appreciate our own ; and there is nothing in my opin- 
ion so well calculated to make a man patriotic and attached to the 
union of the States and the perpetuity of our institutions, as a tour 
of observation among the nations of Europe. 

But let us leave this topic for the present, and return to the 
Duomo or Cathedral, which is considered externally the finest build- 
ing on the continent It is the third, and some say the fourth re- 
edification of the original structure, the first being destroyed by 
Attila, the second by fire, the third by Frederic the First. The 



164: A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OB, 

first stone of the present Duorao was laid in 1636, and is yet unfin- 
ished. Napoleon did much towards bringing it to its present form, 
and gave an impulse to the works that must always be appreciated 
by the admirers of architectural beauty. The interior of the build- 
ing is handsome, but not equal to some other cathedrals in Italy, or 
in keeping with the exterior, which is beautiful beyond description. 
View it from any point, and it strikes the beholder with wonder and 
admiration ; but in order fully to understand the merits of the struc- 
ture, the stranger should ascend the summit, which is reached by 
two staircases winding in a turret of open tracery. Here the eye 
rests upon a perfect flower garden, in which nearly every plant is ex- 
quisitely represented in white marble, baskets of fruit, cherubs' heads, 
sunflowers, lilies, and statuary of the rarest workmanship. 

A noble view of the plains of Lombardy studded with cities and 
villages is also presented to the eye, embracing some of the finest 
lands in Italy. From the cathedral we visited the dilapidated con- 
vent of Santa Maria della Grazie, which contains a work of art 
better known perhaps than any other in the world : the Last Supper, 
Dy Leonardo da Vinci. It is one of the wonders of Milan, and may 
al one time have deserved all the praise bestowed upon it, but at 
present I defy any man to detect any part of the original expression 
of any single face or feature on the canvas ; not even the coloring is 
now visible. Aside from the damage it has sustained from damp, 
decay and neglect, it has been so retouched upon and repainted, and 
that so badly, that many of the heads are now positive deformities, 
with patches of paint sticking all over them, and utterly distorting 
the expression. After looking at this vestige of art, we went into 
the theatre of La Scala, which is one of the largest and finest in 
Italy. The form of the house is a semi-circle, with the ends pro- 
duced and made to approach each other, and it is capable of accom- 
modating 3600 persons comfortably. We did not have the pleasure 
of hearing an opera within its walls, it being closed on account of 
the late troubles in Lombardy. 

From Milan we made an excursion to the Lake of Como by rail- 
road, a very pleasant little trip, performed in one day. The lake is 
about forty miles long, and fed principally by the Addo. Taken 
all together it is the most beautiful sheet of water in Italy, and sur- 
passes in the richness of its tropical vegetation any lake I ever saw. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. Ifi5 

Many villages adorn its banks, besides the palaces and gardens of 
Villa d'Este, Villa of Count Taverna, Madame Pasta and Taglioni. 
Xo one should visit Milan without availing themselves of the beau- 
ties of nature reflected in the bright waters of Como. 



LETTER TWENTY-NINE. 

Venice, Italy. 
Trip to Venice by way of Verona — Entrance in a Gondola — Piazza of St. Mark — Canals — 
Churches — Palaces — Excursion to the Lido — Reception of the Emperor. 

" There is a glorious city in the sea: 
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea weed 
Clings to the marble of her palaces." 

Our journey between the two great cities of Lombardy was not only 
interesting on account of the number of objects presented for our 
contemplation, but furnished a variety of travel, which relieved us 
from the usual tedium of a long distance. At Milan the diligence 
was placed on the railroad, with the passengers in it, and conveyed 
to the town of Treviglio, where horses were in waiting to carry us 
to Bergamo, and thence to the ancient city of Verona, by way of 
Brescia and the foot of Lago di Garda. 

In pleasant Verona we passed an entire day in visiting fair Juliet's 
tomb, the house of the Capulets, and the great Roman Amphithea- 
tre. The tomb, which is now shown to strangers in the garden of 
the Orfanotrofto, is of reddish marble, originally used as a washing- 
trough, but so much broken by sentimentalists that but a small por- 
tion now remains to designate this imaginary spot. The house of 
the Capulets has now degenerated into a most miserable little inn, 
occupied by noisy vetturini and low Italians — a fact well calculated 
to destroy all associations connected with the mansion. The Roman 
Amphitheatre, however, is a rich monument of the early periods, 
standing in the centre of the Piazza di Bra — a spirit of old time, 
among the familiar realities of the passing hour. The interior is 
nearly perfect, and so well preserved and carefully maintained, that 



166 A TENNE88EAN ABROAD; OR, 

every row of seats is there unbroken. The old Roman numerals are 
yet visible over some of the arches, and there are corridors and 
staircases, and subterranean passages for beasts, and winding-ways, 
above ground and below, as when the fierce thousands rushed in 
and out, eager to witness the bloody shows of the arena. Nestling 
in some of the arches and hollow places of the walls, now, are 
smiths, with their forges, and small dealers of various kinds, and 
there are green weeds, and flowers, and grass upon the parapet. 
But little else is changed. After walking all around and through 
the mammoth structure, examining every part with the greatest in- 
terest, we climbed up to the topmost round of seats, which is one 
hundred feet from the pavement, furnishing not only a fine view of 
the magnitude and beauty of the interior, but a lovely panorama of 
the city and its vicinity, closed in by the distant Alps. 

Leaving Verona in the afternoon, on an excellent railroad, we 
passed through Padua, situated between two ranges of mountains 
in a narrow valley, filled with grape vines trained on trees, and laden 
with the most delicious fruit, to the renowned city of Venice. It was 
late in the night when we reached the station. The officers kindly 
passed our luggage without the trouble of examination. In the 
twinkling of an eye the gondoliers had us in keeping, and before 
we knew by what, or how, we found that we were gliding up a 
street — a phantom street — the houses rising on both sides of the 
water, and the long black boat gliding on beneath their windows. 
It appeared like a heaven, and all was so silent and strange that it 
was difficult to realize that we were passing through a populous city 
inhabited by human beings like ourselves. We proceeded up the 
Canal Grande as far as the Porte di Rialto, where we branched off 
and continued to hold our course through narrow streets and alleys, 
all filled and flowing with water. Some of the corners where our 
way led us were so narrow and acute that it seemed impossible for 
the long slender boat to turn them ; but the skilful gondoliers, with 
a low, melodious cry of warning, sent it skimming on without a pause. 
Sometimes the rowers of another dark-looking boat, like our own, 
echoed the cry, and slackening their speed, as we did ours, would 
come dashing past us like a dark shadow. At last we reached our 
hotel, which was once an ancient palace, now converted into a house 
of entertainment. Feeling no disposition to sleep after passing 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 167 

through such fairy-like scenes, we quietly seated ourselves around a 
cheerful fire, talked of home and friends, wishing in our hearts that 
you were with us to share the beauties of this curious old city. 

Dreaming of gondolas, palaces, and the Merchant's Daughter, I 
rose on the following morning and saw the sun rise in splendor 
(after being obscured for many days) on objects that no words of 
mine can describe. I looked out on boats and barks — on masts, 
cordage, flags — on groups of busy sailors, working at the cargoes of 
their vessels — on wide quays, strewn with bales, casks, merchandise 
of all kinds — on huge men-of-war, lying at anchor in stately indo- 
lence — on islands, crowned with gorgeous domes and turrets, and 
where golden crosses shone in the light, atop of wondrous churches 
springing from the sea. " Going down upon the margin of the green 
sea, rolling on before the door, and filling all the streets, we came 
upon a place of such surpassing beauty and such grandeur, that all 
the rest was poor and faded in comparison with its absorbing loveli- 
ness." It was the great Piazza of St. Mark, so renowned in story 
and rich in elegant structures. On the east side stands the old palace 
Ducale, once the residence of the Doges of Venice, a building much 
injured and blackened by time, yet more magnificent than all the 
palaces of Italy. Adjoining it is the Cathedral of San Marco, gor- 
geous in the wild luxuriant fancies of the East ; not far from its 
porch, a lofty tower called the Campanile, standing by itself, and 
rearing its proud head high towards heaven, commands a view of 
the Lido and the Adriatic sea. Near it is a second tower not so lofty 
as the first, but far richer in its decorations, bearing on its summit a 
great orb, gleaming with gold and deepest blue ; the twelve signs 
painted on it, and a mimic sun revolving in its course around them ; 
while above, two Herculean statues made of bronze hammer out the 
hours upon a sounding bell. Two ill-omened columns of red gran- 
ite — one having on its top a figure with its sword and shield, the 
other a winged lion — and an oblong square of elegant houses of the 
whitest stone, surrounded by a light and beautiful arcade filled with 
jug shops and busy people, all combined to complete the enchanted 
scene. After standing for some time admiring first one object and 
then another, we entered the door-way of San Marco, surmounted 
by huge gilt horses brought from the Hippodrome at Constantinople 
when that city was taken by the Crusaders, and ornamented with 



168 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

mosaic of the largest and most costly workmanship. The vestibule 
extends along the whole front, in the centre of which there is a loz- 
enge of reddish marble, marking the place where Pope Alexander 
III. and the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa were reconciled, through 
the intervention of the Venetian Republic. The vaulting is covered 
with mosaics, and around the walls stand numerous columns of pre- 
cious marble, brought from the East. The interior is extremely- 
rich ; the walls and columns are of precious marbles, the vaulting 
covered with old mosaics, with gold ground, and the floor is of tes- 
selated marble. In the sacristy we were shown many precious stones 
and metals, glittering through iron bars, and exhibited only to those 
who can procure a permission. Some things are exhibited which 
require more credulity than has fallen to our share to possess ; such 
as the stone upon which John the Baptist was beheaded, and the 
rock from which the water gushed when touched by the rod of 
Moses. San Marco is a grand and dreamy structure, unreal, fantastic, 
solemn, inconceivable throughout. 

We then entered the palace, and walked leisurely through the old 
galleries and council chambers, " where the ancient rulers of this 
mistress of the waters looked sternly out, in pictures, from the walls, 
and where her high-prowed galleys, still victorious on canvas, fought 
and conquered as of old." The halls are bare and empty now, yet 
retaining some evidences of the ancient importance in the richness 
and splendor of this structure. Crossing the Bridge of Sighs, which 
spans a narrow street high above the water, we entered by torchlight 
the dark and dismal dungeons of the old prison, the very sight of 
which caused me to shudder and wonder how the human heart 
could ever have invented such cruelties for the punishment of poor 
human nature. The cold, damp cells, the instruments of torture, 
the narrow bridge, and the lions' mouths — now toothless — where 
denunciations of innocent men were dropped, all remain as commen- 
taries upon the doings of the wicked councils that sat in judgment 
upon the actions of men. 

This is the city of palaces and churches, many of which contain 
relics and paintings of great value, a description of which would fill 
many letters. 

An excursion to the island of Lido, where Byron used to bathe 
and ride, is generally made by persons who visit Venice. The beach 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AXD ASIA. 169 

js devoid of beauty, and the island barren and unattractive, except 
to those who consider beautiful every spot associated with the poet's 
name. On our return we stopped at the Armenian College, situated 
on a small island near the city. We were politely received by one 
of the priests, who kindly furnished us with an Armenian book pub- 
lished in the College, and introduced us to Lord Byron's tutor, now 
an old and infirm man, prepared, as he told us, to obey the summons 
of Almighty God. 

While in Milan I gave you an account of the reception of the 
Emperor in that city, which was cold and formal, being the work 
of hirelings, and not the spontaneous outpouring of the heart of the 
great body of the people. In Venice it was pretty much the same, 
with the exception of the manner, being on the water instead of an 
open Piazza or broad street. It was midnight when he entered the 
city, his approach being announced by the thundering of cannon 
and the sound of a thousand bells. Not wishing to lose the sight, 
we threw our cloaks around us, hurried through the old Exchange, 
and stood on the Rialto, under which the procession of gondolas 
passed. The old bridge was magnificently illuminated with lamps 
of every color, the palaces on the Canal Grande were all lighted up, 
music of every kind filled the air, and dark gondolas glided swiftly 
along to join the procession. In a short time the youthful Emperor 
came along, and we expected to hear the greeting of the crowd on 
the Rialto, but all was silent as the grave ; no voice was heard to 
say Vive VJEmpereur, no face indicated approbation, but all seemed 
like a funeral, so silent and melancholy that I retired almost regret- 
ting that I had gone out. 



LETTER THIRTY. 

Florence, Italy. 
Trip from Venice to Florence, through Padua and Bologna — Appearance of Florence 
— Her Picture Galleries, Palaces, and Churches — English Church and People in Florence 
—American Residents and Artists— Flower Girls— Environs— The Grand Duke and Gov- 
ernment of Tuscany. 

In two hours after leaving the city of the sea, the rail-cars brought us 
to the ancient town of Padua, celebrated as the seat of one of the 

8 



170 A TENNKSSEAN" ABROAD ; OK, 

oldest and most renowned universities in Europe, now fast going to 
decay, and interesting to the stranger only as retaining the armorial 
bearings of the members, which decorate the walls of the interior 
Cortite, and the statue of the celebrated Elena Lucrezia Cornaro 
Piscopice, known and admired for her beauty, purity of character, 
and universal accomplishments. The Duomo (Cathedral) and some of 
the palaces of Padua are very fine, but hardly worth mentioning 
after describing those in Venice. At Padua, we made a contract 
with a vetturino (hackman) to bring us to this city — a long but 
agreeable journey, occupying four days. This contract would 
amuse you exceedingly ; being drawn up with as much precision as 
any legal instrument, specifying in plain terms what each party was 
expected to do, and containing certain restrictions and requirements, 
altogether necessary for travellers in Italy, who desire to have peace, 
and wish to avoid a thousand vexations. Our route between Padua 
and Florence presented many objects worthy of note, if I only had 
the time and space to bestow upon them. After crossing the Adige, 
and passing through a region of country which produces the finest 
vintage, we reached the Po, which is about the size of the Cumber- 
land, and kept within its banks by levees, varying from ten to 
twenty feet in height. On the third day we entered Bologna, or 
the city of sausages, an ancient sombre-looking place, under a bril- 
liant sky, with heavy arcades over the footwaj^s of the older streets, 
and lighter and more cheerful archways in the newer portions of the 
town. From the Observatory, situated near the centre of the city, 
we had an excellent view of the many fine churches — the tall lean- 
ing towers, built of brick, and inclining crosswise as if they were 
bowing stiffly to each other, and the broad plains in the environs, 
bounded by the lofty range of the distant Apennines. The colleges, 
and palaces too, and above all, the Academy of Fine Arts, where 
there are a number of interesting pictures, especially by Guido, 
Domenichino, and Ludovico Caracci, give Bologna a place of its 
own in the memory. Even though they were not, and there was 
nothing else to remember it by, \-\g fact that it required six vises on 
our passports to get out of the g tes, is sufficient to make a lasting 
impression upon us. 

Leaving Bologna, we reached the foot of the Apennines, over 
which we were drawn by four dove-colored oxen, (nearly all the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 171 

cattle in Italy are dove-colored,) and reached this city on the even- 
ing of the fourth day. 

" Of all the fairest cities of the earth, 
None is so fair as Florence." 

Situated on the banks of the Arno, in a valley rich in all that is 
beautiful, and surrounded by lofty and well-shaped mountains, 
covered with bright villas and smiling groves, it offers a prospect 
well calculated to captivate the stranger, and entice the thousands 
who come here annually to spend the winter months. Aside from 
the beauty of its situation, and salubrity of its climate, Florence is 
distinguished above all other Italian cities, for the number, extent, 
and richness of her picture galleries and halls of statuary — palaces 
that furnish attractions for artists and all amateurs. Among these 
galleries, the most noted are those in the Uffige and Pitti Palaces, 
which contain some of the oldest and most valuable works of art 
now in Europe. " Here, open to all comers, in this beautiful and 
calm retreat, the ancient masters are immortal, side by side with 
Michael Angelo, Canova, Titian, Rembrandt, Raphael, Poets, Histo- 
rians, Philosophers — those illustrious men of history, beside whom 
its crowned heads and harassed warriors show so poor and small, 
and are so soon forgotten. Here, the imperishable part of noble 
mind survives, placid and equal, when strongholds of assault and 
defence are overthrown ; when the tyranny of the many, or the few, 
or both, is but a tale ; when pride and power are so much cloistered 
dust." The central part of the Uffige palace is a circular room, 
called the Tribune, covered with a cupola, elegantly incrusted or 
inlaid with mother-of-pearl, paved with the richest marble, and orna- 
mented with the rarest works of the pencil and the chisel. The 
first that attracted my attention, was the far-famed marble statue 
called the Venus de Medici, and considered by artists as an example 
of perfect art. It was much broken when found, and the restorations 
are so poor that the general effect of the statue is very much im- 
paired. The Apollino offers an excellent example of the ideal form 
of the human figure as entertained by the old masters. The Los- 
tutori, (group of wrestlers,) the L'Arrotino, (slave whetting his knife,) 
and the Dancing Faun, all exhibit very high qualities of the art, and 
are justly regarded as among the most valuable monuments of an- 



172 A TENNESSEAKT ABROAD; OR, 

tiquity. The choicest paintings of the collection are also assembled 
in the Tribune. Here the great works of Michael Angelo and Ra- 
phael stand out in living colors, for the admiration of the world. 
The Virgin presenting the infant to St. Joseph by the first, and a 
Venus by the last named artist, are sufficient in themselves to give 
a reputation to any museum of art. 

The Palazzo Pitti is a large and splendid structure built of rough 
stone, and now the residence of the sovereign. Its chief attractions 
are the paintings that adorn the large and well furnished rooms, 
and the Boboli gardens in the rear, occupying the most elevated 
site in the city, and filled with terraces, fountains, statuary, arbors, 
exotics, and every thing calculated to beautify and adorn the spot. 
Attached to the palace is a museum, superior in many respects to 
any that we have yet seen. The collection of wax figures exhibit- 
ing the human frame in all its parts are unequalled any where, while 
the collection of birds, minerals, and animals compare well with 
those in more celebrated museums. Connected with the museum is 
a room recently erected by the Grand Duke and dedicated to 
Galileo, who was a resident of Florence. In point of exquisite 
workmanship and elegant proportions it is well worthy to bear the 
name of the distinguished astronomer. The floor is of tesselated 
marble, and the ceiling frescoed, representing the life of Galileo. It 
contains a full-sized statue of the philosoper in one end, surrounded 
with his instruments and the busts of his pupils arranged in niches 
according to their different positions. 

Besides the two palaces that I have just briefly described, Florence 
contains a number of private palaces which are always accessible to 
strangers, and have in them objects of curiosity no where else to be 
seen. 

Like nearly all of the cities in Italy, Florence can boast of many 
fine public buildings, the churches taking the precedence. The 
Cathedral is a mammoth structure, built of tesselated marble, and 
surmounted by a double dome said to be the largest in the world. 
The interior is rather dark, owing to the smallness of the windows 
and the richness of the stained glass which excludes the light. 
Near the main building is a Campanile and Baptistery, also made of 
tesselated marble, and considered fine specimens of architectural 
taste. Next to the Cathedral the churches of San Lorenzo and S. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 173 

Croce are the most remarkable. The exterior of the first is nothing 
but a mass of rough and dingy brick-work, but internally it is ex- 
tremely rich. The Medicean Chapel " is an illustration of the old 
story of the painter, who being unable to represent Venus beautiful, 
covered her with finery." The walls are entirely covered with the 
richest variegated marbles and pietre duce ; agate, lapis lazuli, jasper, 
chalcedony, and other precious stones. Graceful and elaborate 
representations of flowers in mosaic exhibit on the walls the armo- 
rial bearings of the cities and states of Tuscany. This elegant 
chapel was really intended by its founder, Ferdinand I., for the re- 
ception of the Holy Sepulchre, but failing in his object, it was sub- 
sequently converted into the cemetery of the grand ducal family. 
Santa Croce is situated in the ancient part of Florence, and is the 
principal Church of the Black or Observatine Friars. The exterior 
is not finished, although it is one of the oldest edifices in the city, 
and the probability is that it will never be completed, as they would 
then have no excuse to tax the people. The interior is covered over 
with sepulchral slabs, most of which are in very low relief, but the 
monuments erected by the munificence of the city to the memory 
of Michael Angelo and Galileo exhibit the perfection of modern art. 
Several members of the Bonaparte family are interred in this church, 
besides many other persons of distinction. Speaking of churches 
reminds me to mention that I attended divine service in the English 
Chapel at the request of a friend, where I had not only to pay fifty 
cents admission to the woman at the door, but was compelled to 
listen to an old man's sermon written in his dotage and delivered by 
a beardless youth, who looked as if he had hardly finished his cate- 
chism. This church is supported by the English who leave their 
homes and come here to live economically, hearing that the Floren- 
tines live in style on less than nothing. There are a number of 
American residents now in the city, mostly artists, who come here 
to study the old masters, and obtain advantages that they have not 
in the United States. We visited the studio of our great sculptor, 
Hiram Powers, a few days since, and he was kind enough to show 
us a number of excellent pieces, viz., busts of Washington, Frank- 
lin, Clay, Webster, Calhoun, and others, besides a beautiful statue 
called the Fisher Boy, and the models of his two pieces called 
America and California. Mr. Powers has a reputation not only at 



174 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

home, but among the artists of Italy, that he may well be proud of. 
Florence is a charming place, and I cannot bring this letter to a 
close without alluding once more to its beauties. Every morning 
when we essay from our hotel, the bright faces of the flower girls 
greet us with a smile and happy good morning, place bouquets in 
the button holes of our coats, and dart off to the next passer-by with 
so much good-humor and playfulness that one cannot but feel kindly 
towards them and the busy world around. Wherever we go something 
pleasing presents itself for our contemplation. If we become tired of 
the streets and public places of the city, we can drive through shady 
groves and green meadows of the environs, where every thing is 
fresh, beautiful, and inviting. But there is no sweet without its 
bitter; the Grand Duke is old and imbecile, without the confidence 
of his people, and dependent on a foreign soldiery for his persoual 
safety. 



LETTER THIRTY-ONE. 

Genoa, Italy. 
Trip from Florence to Genoa md Pisa, Leghorn, and the Sea — Appearance of Genoa from 
the Harbor — Fortifications — Palaces — Peculiarities of the City — Excursion to Villa Palla- 
vicina — Return to Florence. 

Railroads are so rare in Italy, and we are so heartily tired of dili- 
gences and vetturini, that we came to the conclusion to make a visit 
to the home of Columbus, as much for the sake of variety as a dis- 
position to see the spot that gave birth to the discoverer of the new 
world. We started early in the morning, and in two hours found 
ourselves standing on the Leaning Tower of Pisa, so much admired 
and talked about abroad, and so insignificant when you draw near 
to it When viewed through the highly telescopic medium of popu- 
lar report, it appears something wonderful, while, in truth, it is 
hardly worth stopping to see. It has a cylindrical form, and 
measures fifty feet in diameter, and one hundred and seventy feet in 
height. It consists of eight stories of columns, in each of which 
they bear semi-circular arches, forming open galleries round the 
story. It is easy of ascent by a spiral staircase, and the summit is 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 175 

inclosed with an iron railing to prevent accidents. Seven large 
bells are suspended around the top, four of which are quite large 
and three small, and said to be remarkable for their sweetness of 
sound. The most extraordinary feature of the tower is its leaning 
tendency, being fourteen feet from the level of the base. It furnishes 
an extended and beautiful view of the Mediterranean, Leghorn, and 
the Apennines. Near the tower stands a group of buildings, com- 
prising the Baptistery, the Cathedral, and the Church of the Campo 
Santo, which, taken together, form perhaps the most remarkable 
collection in the world. Removed from the ordinary transactions 
and details of the town, they have a singularly venerable and im- 
pressive character. It is the architectural essence of a rich old city, 
with all its common life and common habitations pressed out and 
filtered away. The Campo Santo (cemetery) is a curious old place, 
containing a great number of sepulchral slabs, monuments, and sar- 
cophagi of antiquity. It was the first founded in Italy, and has 
given its name to every similar place of interment. Here grass- 
grown graves are dug in earth brought more than six hundred years 
ago from Mount Calvary, and ancient frescoes very much obliterated 
adorn the walls of this solemn burial place, subjects taken mostly 
from the Christian mythology, that is, the lives of the Saints. 

Not far from Pisa is the city of Leghorn, (where Smollett was 
buried,) which is a thriving, business-like, matter-of-fact place, dis- 
tinguished more for its commerce and manufacture of bonnets than 
any thing else, and particularly disagreeable to strangers, on account 
of the many annoyances they are subject to, in the way of passports, 
porters, beggars and rascals generally. 

After going through the ordeal and paying an enormous price for 
our passage, we boarded the steamer, rested tolerably on a sofa, and 
woke up the following morning finding ourselves at anchor in the 
beautiful harbor of " Genova la Supe7*ba" It was full of vessels ; 
all seemed active and bustling, reminding me forcibly of her ancient 
importance and power among the cities of the world. The city 
is in the form of an amphitheatre, and rises gradually from the water's 
edge to the summit of the Apennines, which come into the sea just 
here. The two horns of the crescent, and several peaks in the 
mountain in the rear of the city, are surmounted with strong for- 
tresses, which command the entire harbor, making it the most for- 



176 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OK, 

midable place in the Sardinian dominions. Occupying a small 
compass, it is necessarily very compactly built, and viewing it from 
the sea, with its terraces rising one above another, garden above 
garden, palace above palace, and height above height, with its 
narrow streets and singular-shaped buildings, it presents a picture 
altogether different from any that I have yet seen. We went ashore 
in a small boat, had our baggage passed by slipping a small fee in 
the officer's hands, and in a few minutes found ourselves snugly en- 
sconced in a hotel that was once the palace of some rich merchant 
in the times when Genoa was in her glory. The streets of the city 
are generally not more than six feet wide : no carriages are allowed, 
and every thing is conveyed on the backs of donkeys, mules, and 
men. As we wended our way through these dark and narrow 
thoroughfares at the heels of a cicerone, I could but wonder how 
the human race could exist in such places. I never in my life was 
bo dismayed : the wonderful novelty of every thing, the unusual 
smells, the unaccountable filth, the disorderly jumbling of dirty 
houses, one upon the roof of another — the passages more squalid 
and more close than any in the Five Points of New- York, in and 
out of which, not beggars, but well-looking and well-dressed females, 
with white veils over their heads and great fans in their hands, were 
passing and repassing — the perfect absence of resemblance in any 
dwelling-house or shop to any thing we had ever seen, perfectly con- 
founded us, and we were not at all disinclined when our guide inti- 
mated that it was time to return for dinner. The following day we 
were ushered into a more inviting part of the city, among the fine 
palaces. The Strada Nueva and Strada Balbi are somewhat wider 
than the streets we passed through yesterday, and are famous for the 
number and magnificence of the palaces that extend from one end 
of them to the other. We went into a number of them, and found 
that they were like those in Florence and Venice, which I have pre- 
viously described. We will not soon forget the bright and happy 
day that we passed in rambling through these immense mansions, 
many of the walls of which are alive with masterpieces by Vandyck 
and other eminent artists. 

Near Genoa there is a villa called Pallavicina, belonging to the 
Pegli family, and just completed, which surpasses in beauty any 
thing of the kind in Italy, and I may say all Europe. It is situated 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 177 

on a lofty hill on the road to Nice, and commands a beautiful view 
of the blue Mediterranean, the harbor of Genoa, and a vast region 
of country round about. There is nothing extraordinary about the 
palace, except the extensive marble terraces that surround it ; but 
the out-grounds are laid out with great taste, and contain every 
thing calculated to beautify and adorn the spot. Observatories, 
rustic seats, grottoes, artificial caves, waterfalls, romantic bridges, 
boats, swings, fountains, flower beds, and every conceivable conven- 
ience are here congregated in a small space, and arranged in such 
a manner as to give it more the appearance of a paradise than a gen- 
tleman's country seat. 

From Genoa we intend returning to Florence by way of Spezzia, 
Lucca, and the marble quarries of Carrara, the road running along 
the shore of the sea, and presenting a diversity of scenery no where 
else to be seen but in Italy. It was in the gulf of Spezzia that 
Shelley was drowned, and it was here that Napoleon intended to 
establish his stronghold, on account of the safety and commodious- 
ness of the harbor, but was frustrated in his plans by the French 
Ministry. 



LETTER THIRTY-TWO. 

Rome, Italy. 
Journey from Florence to Rome through Perugia and over the Via Flaminia — Etruscan Re- 
mains — Lake Thrasimene — Falls of Terni— Citadel and Aqueduct at Spoleto — First view 
of the Dome of St. Peter's Church — The Campagna Romana — Ponte Molle — Porta del 
Popolo — Piazza di Spagna. 

"lamia Rome ! Oft as the morning ray 
Visits these eyes, waking at once I cry, 
Whence this excess of joy? what has befallen me? 
And from without a thrilling voice replies, 
Thou art in Rome !" 

It is discretionary with travellers jonrneying from the Tuscan capital 
to the Eternal City to choose between one of three routes — to Leg- 
horn, by railroad, and thence by sea to Civita Vecchia, the land 
route by Sienna, and another road passing through Perugia and Spo- 
leto. For expedition the first is far preferable, but not so agreeable 

8* 



178 

on account of the inferiority of the boats and the innumerable little 
annoyances that one is compelled to encounter in the way of pass- 
ports, hotel keepers, porters, and beggars generally. The second 
route is shorter, but is less interesting than the third, and presents 
fewer objects of picturesque beauty. A diligence performs the jour- 
ney in thirty-six hours, and a courier's carriage in much less time ; 
while the vetturini require six and sometimes eight days. Wishing 
to see and learn something of the intermediate country, and not 
being pressed for time, six of us (all Americans) joined together and 
engaged a vetturino to convey us according to our pleasure within the 
gates of the Papal Capital. Our first day's journey brought us to 
Arezzo, a town containing ten thousand inhabitants, and noted as the 
birthplace of Petrarch, Vasari, Michael Angelo, and other men of dis- 
tinction. Leaving early the following morning, we made an excur- 
sion a short distance from the roadside to Cortona, an ancient Etruscan 
city, situated on a lofty eminence, surrounded by a massive stone 
wall, and embracing evidences of Etruscan remains well worthy of 
the attention of the antiquary. It was founded by the Umbri, and 
claims to be one of the most ancient cities of the Etruscan league. 
We went into the Cathedral, which contains the great sarcophagus 
said to hold the body of the Consul Flaminius, and also into the 
Museum, where there is a small collection of antiquities, among 
which the coins and bronzes are the most remarkable. A bronze 
lamp, discovered in a ditch at La Fratta a few years ago, is the most 
interesting and valuable object in the collection. It is a round bowl, 
nearly two feet in diameter, with sixteen lamps around the rim, 
ornamented with heads of Bacchus, and a Gorgon's face on the 
bottom. The priest who conducted us through the Museum said 
that this lamp weighed one hundred and seventy Tuscan pounds. 

Leaving Cortona, we soon found ourselves on the site of the battle 
of Thrasimene so celebrated in Roman history. It is just such a place 
as an accomplished general would select to take advantage of and 
destroy his enemy ; with the hills of Gauladro on the one side and 
the lake on the other, encircling the plain upon which the sangui- 
nary battle was fought so completely as to make it appear utterly 
impossible that any other result could have taken place. The lake 
which bears the name of the battle is a very pretty sheet of water, 
about thirty miles in circumference, and surrounded by gentle emi- 



179 

nences covered with oak and pine, dotted here and there with a 
village and olive plantations. We spent the night on its shores 
at a place called Passignana, which I am sure not one of us will 
soon forget. The inn, like many others in Italy, was constructed for 
the accommodation of man and beast, and while we were sipping 
vile coffee and gnawing goat cutlets, our jaded horses were heard 
stamping below and biting their troughs, as a substitute for more 
wholesome provender. We made the best of it, however, and started 
before day the next morning for Perugia, where we made up in a 
good dinner for lost time, and passed several hours agreeably in 
examining the gateway, walls, bridges, and other Etruscan remains. 
On the roadside, near Perugia, is an old tomb, a Grotto di Volunni," 
discovered by a peasant in 1840, and remarkable for the perfect 
manner in which it represents the Etruscan mode of interment. It 
is approached by a long flight of steps descending to the entrance 
in the hillside, and consists of ten chambers, cut out of the living- 
rock : the largest is twenty-four feet by twelve, and sixteen feet high ; 
the nine others which open into it are of much smaller size, and con- 
tain old urns filled with broken bones, inscriptions giving a history of 
the deceased, lamps suspended from the ceiling, and figures represent- 
ing the heads of Medusa, the Gorgon, and other characters. Not 
far from this we got upon the Via Flaminia, which passes through 
the valley of Clitumnus, and near the temple supposed to be the one 
described by Pliny as dedicated to the river-god Clitumnus, and cel- 
ebrated in the writings of Dryden, Addison, and Byron. It is quite 
small, and now used as a chapel dedicated to St. Salvadore. At 
Spoleto we stopped a short time, and enjoyed the view from the cit- 
adel, which is one of the finest in Italy, and examined the celebrated 
aqueduct built by Theodelapius III., duke of Spoleto, 604. The 
citadel is now used as a prison, and contains at present more than 
five hundred convicts, many of whom were committed for political 
offences. The aqueduct, which supplies the citadel and town with 
water from a large spring in a hill opposite and separated by a deep 
ravine, serves both as a conduit and bridge for foot passengers. It is 
a work of considerable magnitude, and well deserves examination. 

On the fifth day after leaving Florence we visited the Falls of 
Terni, which are situated in a quiet and romantic region five miles 
distant from the town of Terni. They have been so frequently de- 



180 A TENNESSEAIST ABROAD ; OR, 

scribed by writers of every grade that I deem it unnecessary to enter 
minutely upon its beauties, and will therefore give you only some 
idea of its general effect and peculiarities. The formation of the cas- 
cade was not, as one might conclude, the work of nature, but of art 
— for the purpose of draining the valley of the Yelinus from the 
frequent inundations of the river, which was so charged with calca- 
reous matter, that it filled its bed with deposits, and thus subjected 
the rich plains of Keeti to constant overflow from the lakes which it 
forms at that part of its course, The drainage of the stagnant 
waters produced by the overflow of the lakes was first attempted by 
the Eomans more than two centuries before the Christian era — who 
caused a channel to be made for the Yelinus, through which the 
waters of that river were carried into the Nera, over a precipice of 
several hundred feet. The bed of the river above the Falls is forty 
or fifty feet wide, and the rapidity of the stream is said to be seven 
miles an hour — flowing down three successive falls into a deep gulf 
from an altitude of nine hundred feet, sending the spray high into 
skies, which again 

" Returns in an unceasing shower, which sound, 
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, 
Is an eternal April to the ground." 

Byron, in his beautiful description of the Falls, rather overshoots 
the mark, according to the ideas of Americans who have heard the 
mighty roar of Niagara. "The war of waters and the hell of waters" 
certainly express more than can be realized by an American viewing 
the cataracts of the old world. Terni, however, is a place well worth 
a visit, and in point of beautiful scenery and great height, I give it 
the preference to all the cascades and torrents that I have yet seen 
in Europe. 

At Nurni we saw the remains of a ruined bridge which has for 
ages past been regarded as one of the noblest relics of imperial 
limes. Two arches are still standing in a perfect state, exhibiting 
strongly the superior skill of the ancients in the art of masonry. It 
is built of large blocks of travertice, without cement, but so closely 
joined that it would be difficult to insert the smallest instrument 
between the layers. Anxious to reach the Eternal City, we hurried 
on, and at noon on the seventh day we descried in the distance the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 181 

magnificent dome of St. Peter's Church. There it stood like a 
mighty giant amid innumerable towers, and steeples, and roofs of 
houses, rising up into the sky, and high above them all bearing the 
Holy Cross. 

It is impossible to describe my emotions as we neared the city of 
so many historical recollections. I thought of its antiquity, its re- 
nown, its glory, and its present lowly state. Even my own brief 
history involuntarily passed before my mind's eye — the past fruitful 
in its recollections of pleasures and pains. Collegiate days glowing 
with Roman story, professional trials and juvenile troubles, all came 
up and suggested thoughts at once pleasing and painful. We soon 
entered on the Campagna Romana ; an undulating flat where few 
people can live on account of the malaria, and where for miles and 
miles there is nothing to relieve the terrible monotony and gloom. 
We asked our cocker to point out the Coliseum and other ancient 
ruins, but he replied that they were all on the other side of the city. 
We gave up almost in despair, and were compelled to drive thirty 
miles over this Campagna without seeing any thing except a few old 
dirt hovels inhabited by villainous-looking shepherds, with long un- 
combed hair hanging over their faces, and closely wrapped in brown 
mantles, tending their sheep. As we approached the city, the 
appearance of the country became more pleasing, and the vegetation 
more abundant. Monte Maria, covered with pines and cypresses, 
bounds the prospect on one side — the hills of Albano and Frascati 
extend far away in the distance on the other — while the plain of the 
yellow Tiber was spread out before us. We crossed the Ponte Molle, 
and entered Rome in the afternoon by the Porta del Popolo — w T hich 
opens upon a spacious and well-built square of the same name, orna- 
mented with a fine fountain and obelisk brought from Heliopolis, the 
On of Scripture. 

We expected to be examined pretty closely before they would 
permit us to pass through the gates, but to our utter astonishment 
the officer came to the carriage door and openly demanded a bribe 
of ten pauls — which we paid, (of course,) and drove on to our hotel 
in the Piazza di Spagna without any examination. We said not a 
word, but thought what a commentary upon the government of the 
Pope. 



182 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 



LETTER THIRTY-THREE. 

Rome, Italy. 

Visit to the Capitol — View of the City and Campagna — The Corso and public Squares of the 
Modern City— The Museum— Castle of St. Angelo— St. Peter's Church— The Vatican and 
other Palaces — The Pope, Cardinals, and Government of the Papal States. 

" O Rome ! my country ! city of the soul ! 
The orphans of the heart must turn to thee, 
Lone mother of dead empires, and control 
In their shut breasts their petty misery." 

Our first care, after arriving here, was to look about, inquire, and 
select suitable apartments, conveniently situated for visiting the 
various sights of the city — an undertaking apparently trifling, but 
really of considerable moment to a man who has an eye to time and 
fatigue. Following the advice and complying with the wishes of 
friends, we made the proper arrangements at a hotel, situated near 
the Piazza di Spagna, at the foot of the Pincian Hill, the favorite 
promenade of the modern Romans. This work being finished, our 
next object was to mount some lofty height and survey the great 
theatre of so many historical recollections. Our valet de place in- 
formed us that the tower of the Capitol and the dome of St. Peter's 
Church afforded the best views, but that the former was the most 
desirable, being situated on the summit of the Capitoline Hill, which 
separates the ancient from the modern city, the work of the Popes 
from that of the Caesars. Passing through the Corso, a long and 
narrow street, lined on either side with shops, palaces, and private 
houses, sometimes opening into a broad piazza, we came to a long 
flight of marble steps, blackened by time and ornamented with two 
colossal statues of Castor and Pollux, with their horses, besides the 
milestone on the old Appian Way, and other relics of antiquity. 
Walking through a piazza, ornamented with a fountain and bronze 
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, we ascended a long and narrow 
flight of wooden steps, which led us to the summit of the tower. 
Here we realized, in one sweep of the eye, all the dreams of our 
boyish days and the hopes of later years. Like nectar, we drank in, 
to our heart's content, the beauties of a panorama rich in history, in 
memory, and in truth. The Seven Hills, the yellow Tiber, running 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 1S3 

out of its bank and spreading desolation in its course, the broad 
Campagna extending to the sea on the east, and the distant range 
of the snow-capped mountains on the west, formed the outlines of 
the picture — filled up on one side with the remains of the old Aque- 
duct, the Coliseum, the Forum, and innumerable temples, and on 
the other with the great dome of St. Peter's Church, spires without 
number, and the lofty palaces of the modern Romans. Descending, 
we went into the Museum, situated on the piazza alluded to above, 
and opposite the Conservatory. The building is small, and the col- 
lection much less extensive than that of the Vatican, and contains 
only a few first-rate works of sculpture. The most remarkable ob- 
jects to be seen here are two ancient sarcophagi, elegantly worked, 
the bronze horse discovered in 1849 in the Vicoio delle Palme, the 
infant Hercules, also in bronze, statues of Agrippina, mother of Ger- 
manicus, Venus of the Capitol, the Faun, and the Amazon, all of 
which are executed in the most perfect manner. In the Conserva- 
tory, used for the sittings of the Senate, I observed some good paint- 
ings and exquisite statuary, particularly a collection in a room 
dedicated to Canova, embracing the busts of nearly all the modern 
artists of celebrity. Just back of the Conservatory is the Tarpeian 
Rock, which we approached through a small kitchen garden, and 
found it surrounded with dirty buildings and filled nearly up with 
rubbish from the streets. Enough remains, however, to point out 

"The steep 
Tarpeian : fittest goal of Treason's race— 
The promontory whence the traitor's leap 
Cured all ambition." 

Leaving this fated place, we drove through the principal squares 
and streets of the modern city, and found them as reported, extremely 
filthy and disagreeable. The piazzas are generally ornamented either 
with fountains or Egyptian obelisks ; while the narrow streets, paved 
with lava, are without sidewalks, and lighted at night with oil. The 
Corso is the only street in Rome on which a person may walk with 
impunity in inclement weather, and even here there is danger of 
being jolted into a mud-hole by a begging monk, or spattered from 
top to toe by some Jehu driving most furiously towards the goal of 
the ancient Capitol. 

Rome, like Venice, is distinguished for the number and magnifi- 



184 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

cence of her churches, a description of which would be not only 
uninteresting to you, but too great an undertaking to embrace in a 
single letter. Next to St. Peter's, which overshadows all the rest, 
the churches of St. Paul, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, 
and the church of the Jesuits, are parti cularly distinguished. St. 
Paul's is situated in the outskirts of the city, on the bank of the 
Tiber, and when completed will vie with any building in Italy. It 
is extremely rich in solid alabaster columns, mosaics, statuary, and 
paintings. To describe St. Peter's church seems almost a work of 
supererogation, after the thousand and one descriptions that have 
appeared from time to time in books and the letters of travellers. 
We will not attempt, therefore, to enter into any thing like a minute 
representation of this great building; but will merely write down 
our impressions after several visits. It is situated not far from the 
west bank of the Tiber, and opposite to the main part of the modern 
city. Crossing the Ponto St. Angelo, near the castle of the same 
name, we came in sight of the stupendous building. At first I was 
really disappointed in its dimensions and external appearance, and 
this disappointment continued until we entered the great door-way, 
walked through the various aisles and chapels, and ascended the 
mammoth dome, from which the greatness, the glory, the surpassing 
grandeur of St. Peter's was revealed to our bewildered senses. The 
exterior is not so beautiful or rich in architectural embellishments as 
the Cathedral at Milan, but take it all in all, it surpasses any edifice 
now in the world. The Piazza in which it stands, with its cluster 
of large and exquisite columns, and its gushing fountains, so fresh, so 
broad, and free, and sparkling, nothing can exaggerate, while the 
semicircular colonnades, sixty feet wide and about the same height, 
supported by four rows of columns, through which carnages pass, 
terminate in two galleries three hundred and sixty feet long and 
twenty-three broad, and communicate with the vestibule of St. 
Peter's. The entire structure is built of travertine, and decorated, 
the summit with colossal statues of saints, etc. To form some idea 
of the immensity of the Cathedral, I quote from another the follow- 
ing facts relative to the time of building and cost : " It required 
three centuries and a half to bring it to perfection, and its progress 
during that period extended over the reign of no less than forty-three 
Popes. The expenses of the works were so great that both Julius 



AND ASIA. 185 

II. and Leo X. resorted to the sale of indulgences for the purpose of 
meeting them. At the close of the seventeenth century the cost 
was estimated at £10,000,000, not including the sacristy and other 
parts since finished. The annual expenditure on repairs, superin- 
tendence, etc., is £6,300." Now that I have given you some idea 
of the extent, cost, and external appearance of St. Peter's, you must 
go with me through the vestibule and massive door-way into the 
interior, which comprises all that is beautiful and grand in archi- 
tecture, mosaic work, statuary, and paintings. The nave is vaulted 
and ornamented with sunk coffers, elaborately decorated with gilding 
and stucco ornaments. Five massive piers, supporting four arches, 
separate the nave from each side aisle. Each pier is faced with two 
Corinthian pilasters, having two arches between them occupied by 
colossal statues of saints, etc. Numerous chapels, corresponding 
with the great arches of the nave, are arranged on either side of the 
church, and tend to break the general effect and reduce the appear- 
ance of the aisles. The pavement is entirely composed of marble, 
and the walls and piers are generally faced with plates of marble, 
varied with medallions and other sculptures. The vases for the holy 
water, sustained by cherubs, and the numerous statues and mon- 
uments of merit that fill up the niches and other vacant places, also 
add to the beauty of the interior. 

The first object that fixes attention after entering, is the Bal- 
dacchino, or grand canopy covering the high altar. It is of solid 
bronze supported by four spiral columns of the composite order, and 
covered with the richest ornaments. The High Altar is immediately 
over the grave of St. Peter, and is surrounded by a circular balustrade 
of marble, from which are suspended more than a hundred lamps 
which are kept constantly burning night and day. In the centre of 
this holy place there is a statue of Pius VI., one of the finest works of 
Canova, representing the Pope in a kneeling posture, praying before 
the tomb of the Apostle. Above is the great dome covered with 
mosaics, and an inscription representing in letters of gold the fol- 
lowing words: TV. ES. PETRVS. ET. SVPER. HANC. PETRAM. 
^EDIFICABO. ECCLESIAM. MEAM. ET. TIBI. DABO. CLAVES. 
REGNI. COCLORVM. Near the Baldacchino is the famous bronze 
statue of St. Peter, seated on a pedestal with the right foot extended, 
in order, I suppose, to give the multitude a fair opportunity to kiss its 



186 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OB, 

great toe. Go into St. Peter's when you may, you will find all true 
Catholics, irrespective of age, sex, or condition, paying homage to 
this cold and forbidding statue. Some who have an eye to cleanli- 
ness first wipe off the toe with their handkerchiefs, but the great 
majority just kneel, then touch the toe with their forehead and then 
their lips, apparently with great devotion and reverence. 

Beneath the dome and under the canopy are the catacombs, or 
burial place of saints, heroes, and popes. With the aid of a wax 
candle in the hands of a priest, we were enabled to discover in the 
dark several fine monuments and an elegant sarcophagus of an 
ancient prefect of Rome, named Junius Bassus, in two stories of 
marble. These subterranean apartments are perfectly dry and pure, 
affording a suitable place for the reception of the good and the great. 
After going through the main body of the church and all of its vari- 
ous apartments, we ascended the dome by means of an inclined plane 
as high as the roof, and a winding staircase to the summit. Here, 
six Tennesseans and two other Americans entered the great ball, 
(capable of holding sixteen persons,) and looked down four hundred 
feet on the walking figures on the pavement below. Nothing can 
surpass the magnificence of this stupendous work, as viewed from 
the summit. It looks like a village of workshops, inhabited by 
those who are constantly employed in repairing the edifice. The 
view is also superb, embracing objects of great interest and beauty. 
Just below, under the shadow of the dome, are the gardens attached 
to the Vatican, in which the Pope sometimes passes his leisure 
moments. On the west, the white sails may be seen spreading to 
the breeze, bearing the barks of many nations, laden with the pro- 
ducts of this balmy clime. On the south, the mighty monuments 
in the " city of the dead " rear their lofty heads so high that one 
cannot fail to be impressed. On the east, the distant mountains, half 
covered with snow, rear their dreary peaks high above the Cam- 
pagna, reminding us that it is winter, while the Roman lady wears 
the garb of summer. With this feeble description we take leave of 

a structure where 

" Majesty, 
Power — glory— strength and beauty — all are aisled 
In one eternal ark of worship undented." 

At the head of the collections in the palaces of Rome, the Vatican 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 187 

or Palace of the Pope, with its treasures of art, its enormous galle- 
ries and staircases, and suite upon suite of immense chambers, ranks 
highest and is the richest. Many most noble statues, wonderful pic- 
tures, and curious antiquities are there, nor is it presumptuous in me 
to say there is a considerable amount of rubbish there, too. It is a 
stupendous structure, but being built at different periods it looks 
more like a collection of separate buildings than one regular palace, 
and hence its general appearance is any thing but prepossessing. 
It contains 4422 apartments, eight grand and two hundred smaller 
staircases. The space it occupies is immense, its length being 1151 
English feet, and its breadth 767 feet. It happened to be a day of 
celebration when we visited the Vatican, and we saw for the first 
time a meeting of the Pope and his Cardinals, in the Capella Sis- 
tina, celebrated as containing the fresco painting of Michael Angelo, 
and Raphael's great masterpiece, called the Last Judgment. Being 
no great judge of the fine arts, I will not venture an opinion as to 
the merits of this much talked of work, and, indeed, it would be dif- 
ficult for any one to give an opinion on account of the great damage 
it has sustained by retouches and the action of time. The celebra- 
tion alluded to was exceedingly interesting. The Pope entered, 
clothed in his pontifical robes, made of white satin and spangled 
with gold, while the Cardinals, who are mostly old men, made their 
appearance in scarlet robes with long trains borne by pages. Not 
understanding the language, I of course could not enter into the par- 
ticulars of the ceremony, and can only state there was a great deal 
of formality, and the most superb sacred music from the choir that I 
have ever listened to. The Pope is rather prepossessing in appear- 
ance, being tall, well formed, and graceful, with a countenance indic- 
ative of goodness and intelligence. Leaving him, however, for the 
present, let us return to our description of the Vatican, which is full 
of interest to the stranger. The Library is beautifully arranged, and 
contains 23,000 manuscripts, besides numerous volumes of great 
value. The manuscripts are rare and ancient, but accessible only 
by permission from the Pope, which is rarely granted on account 
of the great fear they have that they might be injured. The gallery 
of paintings is small but select, containing the masterpieces of the 
old painters. Here I observed the Gobelin tapestries, taken from 
the Cartoons of Raphael, which are considered very fine. The col- 



188 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

lection of Roman and Egyptian antiquities in this palace is unsur 
passed. One might pass months and months in the examination of 
the numerous objects in the Vatican, and finally give up in despair. 
Eome also abounds in many private palaces of great note, some 
of which contain rare paintings, statuary, etc. All are accessible, 
and their owners seem to take pride in exhibiting them to the world. 
Many of these elegant mansions, once the abode of luxury and wealth, 
are now vacant, and their occupants banished in foreign lands. Rome, 
like Florence, was too weak to govern herself, and consequently 
fell into the hands of a foreign power. The French are in possession 
of the city, which was once the mistress of the world. A regiment 
of Swiss guards are hired to protect the person of the Pope, whose 
political influence is on the decline. The people want a republic, 
and they are only waiting for an opportunity to renew hostilities. 



LETTER THIRTY-FOUR. 

Rome, Italy. 
The Pope in state on the Corso — American Chapel in Rome — The Forum, Pantheon, 
Coliseum, and other ancient remains — Drive on the Appian Way — Excursions in the 
neighborhood of Rome. 

" While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; 
When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall; 
And when Rome falls, the world." 

Before entering into the precincts of the " city of the dead," about 
which so many learned disquisitions have been recorded, and so 
many orations delivered, I must describe to you briefly a procession 
on the Corso, and festival at the church of San Carlo, in which the 
Pope, his Cardinals, and the Senators of Rome participated. Such 
gala-days are not unfrequent in the Holy City, and consequently 
create very little excitement among the citizens ; while the stranger 
from a far country, unused to such display and ceremony, is all alive 
to see and learn the modus operandi. Hearing that this festival was 
to take place at a certain hour, we walked from our hotel to the 
Corso, through which the procession was to pass. The street on 
either side was lined with the French soldiery, and the balconies, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 189 

ornamented with yellow curtains, were occupied by well-dressed 
females, with flowers in their hands, as an offering to his Holiness. 
In a few minutes after our arrival, the Swiss Guards, dressed in a 
uniform introduced by Michael Angelo, and similar in appearance to 
the coat of many colors made by Israel in his old age for his son 
Joseph, made their appearance at one end of the long street, followed 
by a numerous train of carriages filled with the Pope, his Cardinals, 
the Senators and the High Priests of the city. The carriage con- 
taining his Holiness was exceedingly elegant, drawn by six spirited 
black horses, and mounted with six outriders. As it moved slowly 
along the Corso, the soldiery laid down their arms, every person fell 
upon his knees, and the Pope with the mystic sign of his finger, 
bowing first to the right and then to the left, created a scene at once 
solemn and impressive. Arrived at the church of San Carlo, he was 
taken out of his carriage, placed in a large arm-chair, and carried 
through the different aisles on the shoulders of his Cardinals, followed 
by a procession of priests, bearing torches, incense, etc. Two priests, 
holding in their hands enormous fans, made out of peacocks' feathers, 
walked on either side of the chair, and the females present were all 
dressed in black, and veiled so closely that it was impossible for the 
closest observer to obtain a furtive glance at their hidden faces. To 
go through the details of the ceremony would be uninteresting to 
you ; suffice to say, that it occupied about three hours, and it is only 
one out of more than one hundred festivals that take place every 
year in the Eternal City. 

After the conclusion of the various forms alluded to, the Pope 
repaired to the Vatican, and we to the American Legation, where 
we listened to an excellent sermon, delivered by a gentleman from 
the State of Michigan. Fifteen or twenty Americans were present, 
making one feel as if he were at home listening to the doctrines of 
divine wisdom from the lips of some familiar friend. The chapel is 
attached to the Legation, and is supported by voluntary contribution. 
It is the first and only Protestant church ever established in Rome 
— a privilege granted by the Pope to our present Charge d' Affaires 
on account of the interest taken by him in the revolution of 1849, 
and the high regard entertained by the Pope for the people and 
government of the United States. 

For the antiquarian, fond of searching out and deciphering ancient 



190 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

inscriptions ; for the architect, who desires to see the highest achieve- 
ments in his art ; for the historian, who wishes to chronicle the 
mighty works of the past ; for the artist, who wishes to catch inspi- 
ration from the living pictures of the old masters ; and for the poet, 
who wishes to infuse into his verse the spirit of bygone ages, let him 
visit the Eternal City. Here they will find a field rich in all that is 
calculated to inspire the creative mind. Before going beyond the 
walls of the present city, there is much to see in the way of antiqui- 
ties that I have not heretofore alluded to. The Pantheon still stands 
in a perfect state, and occupied as a church. It is situated in the 
herb-market, a small dirty piazza, rarely frequented at the present 
day, except by the lowest people. We have had no opportunity of 
examining the interior of the rotunda, on account of the water which 
was at times two or three feet deep on the pavement, from the over- 
flow of the Tiber. The portico, which is composed of sixteen Corinth- 
ian columns of oriental granite, with capitals and bases of Greek 
marble, has been admitted by most writers to be beyond criticism, 
and indeed the entire structure fully merits the description given by 
Byron in his Childe Harold : 

" Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime, 
Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods, 
From Jove to Jesus — spared and blessed by time, 
Looking tranquillity, while falls and nods 
Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods 
His way through thorns — glorious dome ! 
Shalt thou not last ? Time's scythe and tyrants' rods 
Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home 
Of art and piety — Pantheon ! Pride of Rome." 

Not far from this stately structure is the Dogana di Terra, or 
Roman custom-house, formerly the Temple of Antoninus Pius. 
Eleven columns of Greek marble in the Corinthian style still adorn 
the front of the edifice, but are much injured by time and the action 
of fire. Just beyond, at the foot of the Quirinal, are the remains of 
the celebrated Forum of Trajan, and the unrivalled column, which 
still stands the pride of Rome in the midst of its ruins. Most of the 
Forum was buried many feet under the surface, but the excavations 
of recent years have brought to light many beautiful specimens of 
architecture that would otherwise have been lost to the world. The 



AND ASIA. 191 

fragments of many columns, made of Egyptian granite, still occupy 
their original position, and convey to the mind some idea of the 
extent and magnificence of the building that was once the pride of 
Rome. The space occupied by the ruins is now inclosed with a 
wooden fence, used by the washerwomen in the neighborhood for 
drying clothes upon. The square is built up badly, and quite as 
uninviting as the region round about the Pantheon. Ascending the 
Quirinal from the Forum, we went into the gardens of the Colonna 
Palace, which are remarkable for several pine trees of enormous size, 
and the massive fragments of a building, supposed to be the Temple 
of the Sun. Passing the Palace of the Pope and the celebrated 
fountain in the piazza on the summit of the Quirinal, we proceeded 
to the Viminal, upon which are the remains of the Bath of Diocle- 
tian, said to have covered many acres. The ruins of this structure 
are now apparent in a portion of a circuit of brick wall, in an 
immense hall converted into a church, called St. Maria of the 
Angles, and other large brick walls and arches used for different 
purposes. Some of the pillars of the hall still remain in their origi- 
nal position. We counted eight made of Egyptian granite which 
measured fifty feet in height, and five feet through. Every thing 
evinces what great amount of labor was bestowed by the ancients 
upon their baths. Many objects of interest are to be seen in this 
neighborhood, such as the barracks of Diocletian, the garden of Sal- 
lust, the Porta Salina, through which the Sabine women entered, 
and the Villa of Albano, celebrated for its gardens and great collec- 
tion of rare statuary and paintings. 

The most prominent objects of curiosity in the way of antiquities, 
occupy but a small space in and near the Capitoline and Aventine 
Hills. Just back of the Capitol is the celebrated Roman Forum, 
occupying the valley formed by the two hills. The floor of the an- 
cient edifice is about twenty feet below the surface of the earth, but 
has been mostly excavated, and is now plainly seen. Fourteen col- 
umns are still standing, and the Arch of Septimus Severus is almost 
perfect. "We descended into the prison near the Forum, in which 
St. Paul and St. Peter are said to have been confined ; drank of the 
water out of the well in the centre of the dungeon ; placed our hands 
in the print made on the wall by the head of St. Peter, when smitten 
by the soldier, and saw the hole through which he made his miracu- 



192 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

lous escape. The dungeon is about thirty feet under ground, and 
the entrance is occupied as a chapel, to which hundreds resort daily 
for the purpose of prayer. On the summit of the Aventine are the 
remains of the Palace of the Caesars. The brick arches are used 
for stables, and the space occupied by the palace is now covered 
over with a garden of vegetables. Just beyond we passed through 
the arch of Titus, and the ruined temple of Yenus, to the great 
Coliseum, which is without question the most stupendous ruin in the 
world. Most things, as seen through the writings of travellers, and 
the highly telescopic medium of popular report, usually fall short of 
one's expectations ; but the Coliseum is, in truth, far ahead of any 
description that I have ever read ; it cannot be exaggerated, but, on 
the contrary, richly merits all the high eulogiums bestowed upon it 
in ancient and modern times. It is not so perfect as the one at 
Verona, as much of the stone has been taken away and used for build 
ing the palaces of modern Rome. This unhallowed demolition, I am 
happy to say, has been prohibited, and Pope Pius IX. deserves much 
praise for his restorations here and elsewhere. Only two thirds of 
the original structure now remain, which is amply sufficient to 
verify the truth of the lines quoted in the commencement of this 
letter. It is built of large blocks of travertine, brick work, and 
tufa ; the Corinthian, Doric and Ionic orders prevail, and its shape, 
as usual, is elliptical. The arena, which was once the scene of gla- 
diatorial spectacles, now contains the peaceful cross, promising for 
every kiss an indulgence of two hundred days, and fourteen statues 
of our Lord's Passion are arranged around it. A Franciscan monk 
preaches in the arena every Friday, and who that has ever listened 
to divine service in the Coliseum can fail to remember the solemn 
impressions created upon his mind on such an occasion ? 

Leaving this wonderful monument of ancient Rome, we procured 
a carriage and drove out on the Appian Way, which is not only 
interesting of itself, but passes through miles of ruined tombs and 
broken walls, that are full of historical recollections. The Baths of 
Caracalla first attracted our attention. They are situated on the 
eastern slopes of the Aventine, and are the most perfect of all the 
Roman thermae, and with the exception of the Coliseum, are the 
most extensive ruins in Italy. They occupy an area not less than 
one mile in circuit, and give one a more correct idea of the extent 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AXD ASIA. 193 

and construction of ancient baths than either those of Diocletian or 
Titus. Passing through the Porta Latina, we stopped to see seve- 
ral Columbaria, (or tombs,) and among them the Columbarium of 
the slaves of Augustus. They consist of square vaults under ground, 
with rows of niches for urns, one above another. The bones of the 
deceased were placed in the urns, and inscriptions on the outside of 
the niche, showing the name, age, and death of each person. The 
tomb of the Scipios is the most ancient and interesting of all the 
tombs yet discovered ; it is marked by a solitary cypress tree, and 
consists of a number of subterranean chambers, brought to light 
after having been undisturbed for more than twenty centuries. Sev- 
eral curious sarcophagi and numerous inscriptions of a very old date 
were excavated out of these chambers. Driving a little further, we 
passed the circus of Romulus, where the course of the chariots, the 
stations of the judges, competitors, and spectators, are yet as plainly 
to be seen as in old time ; passed the tomb of Cecilia Metella, and 
entered the church of San Sebastiano, under which is the entrance 
to the catacombs, so celebrated as the place of burial, and also of 
the assemblage for the meetings of the early Christians. These pas- 
sages have been explored for ninety miles, and form a chain of laby- 
rinths sixty miles in circumference. We walked through various 
chambers, accompanied by a priest with wax candles, and found 
them to be nothing more than excavations out of the earth, and in 
appearance similar to our small caves. In one of the chapels of this 
church, the priest exhibited a stone in a glass case, upon which 
there is an impression of two foot-prints, said to be those of Christ 
when he visited St. Peter in Rome, who said to him, " Domini quo 
vades" 

Tired of looking at broken aqueducts, broken temples, and broken 
tombs, we returned to the city over an excellent road, called the 
Nova Appia, and entered the Porta San Giovanni, situated near the 
church of St. John Lateran and the Scala Santa, in which are the 
marble steps upon which Christ descended when he was sentenced 
by Pontius Pilate. This holy staircase, is composed of twenty-eight 
steps, said to have belonged to Pontius Pilate's house, and to be the 
identical stairs on which our Saviour trod. Pilgrims ascend it only 
on their knees. It is quite steep, and at the summit is a small 
chapel, said to be full of relics, into which the people peep through 

9 



194 A TEXNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

iron bars, and then descend by one of two side staircases, which are 
not sacred, and may be walked on. Fifty to one hundred pilgrims, 
male and female, old and young, high and low, may be seen at any 
time ascending this staircase on their knees. I never, in my life, 
saw any thing else so ridiculous and absurd as this sight — ridiculous 
in the many incidents connected with it, and absurd in its senseless 
and unmeaning degradation. There are two steps to begin with, 
and then a wide landing. Those who are most zealous be^in at 
the beginning and go up to the top very slowly, resting on each 
step to repeat a prayer and kiss a cross cut in the wooden planks 
that cover the marble. This covering has been renewed three or 
four times, having been worn out by the knees of the. pilgrims. We 
saw two American gentlemen go up, merely for the sake of saying 
that they had performed the feat. They got on charmingly, as if 
they were doing a match against time, and were up and down be- 
fore some of the ladies had accomplished their half dozen stairs. 
Most of the penitents came down looking as if they had been regen- 
erated, and had accomplished some substantial deed, which it would 
require a great deal of sin to counterbalance. 

The excursions in the vicinity of Rome are charming, and full of 
interest to the stranger, independent of the many changing views 
they afford of the broad Campagna. Hadrian's Villa, which was 
in early times so rich in every thing calculated to adorn a country- 
seat, still possesses an interest even in its ruined walls. Tivoli, 
where the river Arno is diverted from its natural course, and made 
to plunge headlong more than one hundred feet in the yawning 
caverns below, is also worthy of a visit. There, too, is the Villa 
d'Este, deserted and rapidly decaying, among groves of melancholy 
pines and cypress trees, where it seems to lie in state. Then, there 
is Frascati, and on the hill above, the remains of Tusculum, where 
Cato was born, and where Cicero lived and wrote and beautified his 
favorite home. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 195 



LETTER THIRTY-FIVE. 

Naples, Italy. 
Journey from Rome to Naples— The Pontine Marshes— The Town of Fondi — A Night at 
Capua— Arrival at Naples— The Hotels— Lazzaroni— The Bay and General Appearance 
of Naples. 

" This region, surely, is not of the earth : 
Was it not dropt from Heaven ? Not a grove, 
Citron, or pine or cedar, not a grot 
Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, 
But breathes enchantment." 

No people in the world are so much attached to each other, or 
evince in foreign lands so much clannishness, as the citizens of the 
several States of the American Union. The Englishman, the French- 
man, the German, and most travellers in this part of the world, go 
from one end of the continent to the other without forming a valua- 
ble acquaintance, and apparently caring very little for their own 
countrymen whom they meet en route. With the Americans, it is 
totally different ; they generally travel in parties, always make in- 
quiries at the hotels about their countrymen, and are pretty well 
posted relative to each other's movements. To illustrate this fact, I 
will merely mention that our party consisted of four while in north- 
ern Italy, and that we set out from Rome with our number increased 
to twelve, which I confess was rather too large for agreeability. 
We drove down the Cor so after an early breakfast, gazed on the 
Capitol, Forum, and Coliseum, probably for the last time, and took 
leave of the " city of the soul" through the lofty Porta San Giovanni, 
from which begins the Via Appia Nova. All the forenoon was occu- 
pied in making our way to Albano, situated on a high hill, at the 
southern extremity of the broad Campagna. Here we stopped at 
a hotel that was a few years since occupied by some family, who 
abandoned it on account of the political troubles of the country. It 
is a magnificent building, commanding a view of Pompey's Villa, 
the sea, and the city of Rome. After dinner we proceeded as far 
as Cisterna, the place near which the " tres tabemce" mentioned in 
the Acts of the Apostles were situated. Here the early Christians 
repaired to meet St. Paul on his way to Rome. I do not know 



196 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

what it was then, but this whole region is any thing but inviting at 
present. The habitations of the peasantry along the roadside are 
made in the rudest manner, being nothing more than a few poles 
placed on end and covered with straw, giving them the appearance 
of hay stacks. Having no floors, they build their fires in the cen- 
tre, and the smoke escapes through the door, which is the only aper- 
ture. In one place, we saw an entire village laid out regularly and 
built up with these hay-stack habitations. The people living here 
are mostly shepherds, who spend their lives with their flocks and 
dogs, secluded from the w T orld, and perfectly content if they make 
enough to keep soul and body together. Soon after leaving Cis- 
terna, we entered the Pontine Marshes, which, in ancient times, con- 
tained the site of twenty-three of the most flourishing cities in Italy. 
An excellent road is made across them, shaded by a long, long 
avenue of elm trees. The marshes are twenty-four miles in length, 
and from six to fifty-two in breadth, covering some of the best lands 
in Italy, which might be easily reclaimed, if they were in the hands 
of an energetic people. At Terracina our cocher bribed the officers 
of the doganna, (which is a regular business,) and we passed into 
the Neapolitan dominion without the vexation of having our bag- 
gage overhauled — which, together with passports, is so annoying as 
to almost make one swear to leave the country. Passing the second 
night at Mola, situated on the sea in sight of Gaeta, where Pope 
Pius IX. found refuge during the troubles of 1848, we proceeded to 
the city of Capua, passing through the ancient town of Fondi, so 
celebrated in robber stories. I made a note of this place, because 
the people whom we saw in the streets presented many peculiarities 
of feature, dress and manner, differing entirely from any we have 
heretofore seen. One main street, or channel of mud and refuse, 
divides the town, in the centre of which is a square and churches, 
into which the beggars were pouring from all quarters. We stopped 
in the square to change horses, and in a few minutes our carriage 
was surrounded by a wretched set of hollow-cheeked and scowling 
beggars, who demanded charity in a tone of voice indicating utter 
despair and recklessness. The men were habited in frowsy brown 
cloaks, thrown over their shoulders after the manner of the Span- 
iards, with conical-shaped hats, and countenances fierce and haggard, 
remindng me strongly of the sieges and pillages enacted here in 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 197 

early times by Barbarossa and bis companions. Tbe women occu- 
pied tbe windows, encouraging by signs and words tbe group of 
miserable, naked cbildren tbat surrounded us, to persist in tbeir im- 
portunities for cbarity. Poor, ignorant, and degraded people ! tbey 
know notbing of tbe comforts of life, tbe beauties of religion, or tbe 
duties of man. 

Surrounded by tbis motley concourse, we moved on, expecting to 
reacb Naples tbe same evening, but were disappointed ; our borses 
gave out, and we were compelled to pass tbe nigbt at Capua ; and 
a miserable nigbt it was. Tbe town is occupied by tbe king's sol- 
diers, and tbe botels all appropriated, compelling us to seek lodging 
elsewbere. As a dernier resso?% we quartered ourselves in a large 
room, in a bouse belonging to a widow lady, wbicb was also occu- 
pied by soldiers. A large brasier, filled witb live coals, was placed 
in tbe centre of tbe room by tbe good lady's daugbter, wbo retired 
in a most gracious manner, wisbing us a comfortable rest ; wbile 
we felt well assured tbat we would bave no rest at all. I do wisb 
you could bave seen us, sitting cozily around tbat brasier, discussing 
tbe inclemency of tbe weatber, our eternal borror of all vetturini and 
Italians generally, tbe great annoyance occasioned by tbe nocturnal 
visits of fleas and otber vermin, tbe filtbiness of Capua, and tbe 
rowdyism of tbe military. Having disposed of our spleen, we re- 
tired for tbe nigbt — five of us in four beds, and our servants in tbe 
carriage. Tbe following morning we sipped coffee in a miserable 
caffee, and left for Naples on tbe railroad, fully satisfied tbat Capua 
was not so seductive to a traveller now as tbe soldiers of Praetorian 
Rome were wont to find tbe ancient city of tbat name. 

We reacbed Naples at an auspicious time ; tbere was a storm at 
sea, and tbe wbole bay was in commotion — dasbing tbe waves over 
tbe quays, flooding tbe streets witb water, and driving vessels furi- 
ously from tbeir ancborage. It was a glorious sigbt ; and bereafter, 
wben I tbink of Naples, it will be in connection witb tbat storm. 
Tbe rain descended in torrents, and we reacbed our botel, situated 
on tbe bay, some distance from tbe railroad station, perfectly 
drencbed, and fully satisfied witb tbe labors of tbe day. 

Tbe botels in Naples are nearly all situated on tbe quays, and we 
were so fortunate as to secure rooms commanding a beautiful view 
of tbe bay, tbe islands of Capri and Iscbia, Mount Vesuvius, tbe 



198 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, besides a number of 
modern villages that skirt the shore. At certain hours of the day 
we enjoy this prospect exceedingly — early in the morning before the 
lazzaroni creep out of their hotels, and at noon when they are bask- 
ing in the sun, or eating maccaroni by the yard at sunset. It is hard 
to associate agreeably the beauties of nature and the degradation of 
our poor species : to enjoy the one, we must be separated from the 
other. It is not well to find miserable depravity and wretchedness 
on the same canvas with the picturesque and enchanting : they do 
not harmonize ; the effect of the one destroys our disposition to re- 
gard the other. 

The bay, about which you have heard and read so much, is ter- 
minated by two capes — that of Misenum on the north, and of 
Minerva on the south — and is closed in by the island of Capri, once 
made notorious by the deified beast Tiberius. A part of the city 
extends to the west, in the form of an amphitheatre, on the hills of 
Posilippe, Saint Elmo, and Antignano ; another part to the east in 
a plain, covered with villas from the Ponte della Maddalena to Por- 
tici and to Vesuvius. Towards the north, Naples is surrounded by 
a ridge of hills, which separate it from the Terra di Lavoro, or those 
fertile plains, the Campagna Felice, called by the ancient Romans 
their richest patrimony. 

The shape of the bay, the position of Naples, the grandeur of 
Vesuvius, and the thousand distant beauties here assembled, combine 
to complete a picture that no pen can exaggerate. 



LETTER THIRTY-SIX. 

Naples, Italy. 
The Piazzi Royal and its attractions— Strada di Toledo — The Museum — The Gardens of the 
Villa Reale — Grotto — Tomb of Virgil — Peculiarities of the City — Campo Santo — Excur- 
sions to Baiae, Paestum, Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum — The Neapolitan Govern- 
ment, etc. 

In the way of sights, as it is usually expressed, Naples does not com- 
pete with Rome, Florence, or Venice ; there being only a few ob- 
jects within the limits of the city deserving the stranger's attention. 



AFRICA, AND ASIA. 199 

Quality, however, will make up for quantity; and, although we have 
but few places to visit, they contain much to interest and instruct 
the inquiring mind. I do wish you could have been with us during 
our first day's ramblings, as it is utterly impossible for me to convey, 
on paper, all that came under our observation. 

Setting out early in the morning from our hotel on the bay, we 
proceeded to the Piazza Royal, the great centre of attraction in Na- 
ples. Two bronze horses of exquisite proportions, presented to the 
King by the Emperor of Austria, occupy a space in front of the 
royal palace, which is, without exception, the most elegant structure 
of the kind that we have seen in Italy. A large body of soldiers are 
quartered here, to protect the person of the King, and visitors are 
not only required to present a permit from the proper authorities, but 
must undergo a rigid scrutiny, before they can enter the apartments. 
The armory is very extensive, and contains a large collection of an- 
cient and modern weapons ; many of the chambers are painted, in 
imitation of those of Pompeii, about which I will speak hereafter ; 
the frescoes and oil paintings are very superior, and the Throne 
Room, which is covered with crimson velvet and gold, is particularly 
rich and elegant. Adjoining the palace is the great theatre of San 
Carlo, which turns out so many prima donnas for the operatic 
world. It is conceded by every one to be the largest and most mag- 
nificent play-house in Europe, and no one who has entered its walls 
can fail to be impressed with its capaciousness, richness, and conve- 
nience. Six tiers of great height encircle the body of the house, 
the fronts of which are exquisitely carved and gilded. The boxes 
are all lined with red velvet and damask curtains ; the seats in the 
parquet are made entirely of iron, and so arranged that every one 
can see perfectly well ; while the scenes and every thing connected 
with the stage are in perfect keeping. 

We have attended several operas at San Carlo, but were disap- 
pointed every time. The boxes are rarely full, and the representa- 
tion far inferior to many that I have seen in New- York and New- 
Orleans. 

Before leaving the Piazza Royal, we must mention the church of 
St. Francis de Paola, which is the finest in Naples. It is a modern 
construction, in the form of a circular temple, with two rows of 
semi-circular porticoes, supported by marble columns. The interior 



200 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

abounds in rich chapels, and is decorated with paintings by Caniuc- 
cini and other modern artists of celebrity. Proceeding up the Strada 
del Toledo, the great thoroughfare of Naples, we visited the museum, 
which is not so large as many others in Europe, but contains objects 
of curiosity no where else to be seen ; particularly the relics exca- 
vated from the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Earthenware, 
glassware, and a great variety of fresco paintings, of a curious and 
somewhat obscene character, cut out of the walls in a perfect state, 
constitute the bulk of the collection from Pompeii — which can be 
seen and enjoyed, but as difficult to describe as the Egyptian hiero- 
glyphics. In this collection I was particularly interested in a large 
mosaic, found at Pompeii, measuring twenty feet in length and ten 
in breadth, and representing a battle between Alexander and Darius. 
It is beautifully executed, and shows conclusively that they better 
understood such work in ancient times than at the present day. The 
Farnese Bull and the Hercules, two of the finest pieces of statuary 
of the kind in Europe, are exhibited in this museum. The first con- 
sists of a group of figures, representing Dirce, the wife of Lycus, in 
the act of being tied by the hair to a wild and furious bull. It is 
very massive — all in one piece of marble, and executed by two Greek 
sculptors, who were brothers, called Apollonius and Tarnisius. The 
Hercules, like Pompey's statue in the Spada Palace at Rome, is very 
large and fully developed, exhibiting all that is requisite in the com- 
bination of strength and symmetry. The attitude was well chosen, 
having the right hand resting on a marble block, over which is 
thrown the skin of the Nemean lion, with his club lying by his 
side ; the left hand is placed behind, holding three Hesperian apples, 
and the following words are inscribed on the base : " Glycoyisthanaiis 
epoici." Among the numerous things marked Pompeii, we observed 
several loaves of bread, with the baker's mark upon them, as left in 
the shop when the lava rolled down into the city ; also some paints 
of different colors, and cloth made out of asbestos. The library is 
quite extensive, containing many old and valuable works. The col- 
lection of bronzes are particularly fine, and the picture galleries filled 
with the productions of Penturicchei, Caracci, Schidone and Cor- 
reggio, well deserve attention. All the things which I have enumer- 
ated are curious and valuable; but the collection of precious stones 
and cameos, belonging to the Farnese family, attract more attention 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 201 

and are more prized than any other branch of the Museum. The 
largest cameo in the world is here displayed to the gaze of the 
people, who would like to see its value appropriated to the relief of 
the poor, or some other laudable purpose, instead of being fastened 
up in a strong box, with a soldier to guard it, night and day. It 
was found, according to tradition, in the tomb ef Hadrian by a sol- 
dier, who, ignorant of its value, disposed of it for a very trifling 
sum. By some means or other, it came into the possession of the 
King of Naples, and is now valued at one million of dollars. On 
one side I noticed the head of Medusa, and on the other that of 
Alexander, beautifully cut, and so ornamented as to increase the 
general effect of the stone. 

After passing nearly the whole day in the examination of the 
curiosities in the various apartments of the Museum, we returned 
to our hotel through the gardens of the Villa Reale, situated on the 
bay, and forming the most agreeable and fashionable promenade in 
Naples. They extend along the shore of the bay for about half a 
mile, and are beautifully inclosed with an iron railing on one side, 
and a hedge of roses near the water's edge. Fountains, statues, 
evergreens, and flowers adorn the interior, and an excellent band of 
music plays every afternoon for the benefit of strangers, who congre- 
gate here at this season from all parts of Europe. 

Not far from the gardens is the Grotto or tunnel, cut through the 
hill a third of a mile in length ; the height is about one hundred 
and fifty feet, and the width sufficient for two carriages to pass. The 
road originally passed over the hill, and this grotto was made by the 
Cumacans and Neapolitans, to facilitate the communication between 
the two places. It is lighted, night and day, by means of lamps, 
and an old monk is stationed at the entrance nearest to Naples, in a 
little chapel cut in the rock, for the purpose of receiving alms for 
the poor from those who pass through the grotto. Just over this 
chapel, and about half-way up the hill, is the tomb of the great 
Mantuan Bard, said to have been placed here by order of Augustus, 
who desired the remains of the poet to be interred in Naples, his 
favorite residence. No traces exist either of the urn or columns. 
Its external form is that of a tower, rendered picturesque by the 
surrounding scenery. 

In passing through the streets of Naples, the stranger is attracted 



202 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

by a number of little peculiaritiss, no where else to be seen, which I 
will merely mention, leaving your imagination to carry out the rest. 
The first and most prominent is that of the lazzaroni eating macca- 
roni by the yard, in the streets and public places, for the gratifica- 
tion of their appetites, and not unfrequently for the amusement of 
strangers, who pay for as much as they can eat, just to see the sight. 
Then come the female money changers, seated on stools behind 
tables filled with coppers, which they give in change, at a large 
profit, for silver and gold. Near these tables are another set, occu- 
pied by superannuated old men, with goose quills behind their ears 
and a small slip of paper before them, waiting patiently for some 
illiterate individual to come along and get them to write a love let- 
ter, or something that requires as much pains and particularity. 
In the morning, long droves of donkeys, with panniers on their 
backs, filled with vegetables and fruits, may be seen going from 
house to house, furnishing the people with such things as are pro- 
cured at market-places in other cities. In the evening, two-wheeled 
wagons, drawn by three horses abreast, decked with smart trappings, 
and a great abundance of brazen ornaments, may be seen going at 
a rapid rate, carrying laborers to their homes in the neighboring 
villages. It is astonishing how many poor creatures manage to get 
into one of these vehicles — the smallest of which contain sometimes 
six people inside, four in front, four or five more hanging on behind, 
and two or three more in a net or basket suspended below the axle- 
tree, where they lie, half suffocated with mud and dust. Exhibitors 
of Punch, buffo singers with guitars, reciters of poetry, reciters of 
stories, a number of low and cheap exhibitions, with clowns and 
showmen, drums and trumpets, painted cloths, representing the ele- 
phant, within, and eager crowds assembled without, assist to make 
up some of the peculiarities of Naples. 

Leaving the city one morning, we followed a funeral procession 
to Campo Santo, the modern burial place, situated near the foot of 
Vesuvius. The deceased was some poor creature, unknown, and, I 
may say, uncared for in this world — as there was no one present to 
shed a tear or perform the last sad offices of affection. The body, 
on an open bier, borne on a kind of palanquin, was hurried along 
to the reception room of the cemetery, where it was divested of all 
clothing, and allowed to remain a short time, as a matter of form, in 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 203 

a coffin, used on all similar occasions, and then taken out and cast 
headlong, by the monks, into a pit nearly filled with bodies. At 
the request of the monk, we looked down this pit, and found it to 
be about forty feet deep and walled up with stone. It was an awful 
sight, I assure you, to see in one place so many bodies in various 
stages of putrefaction. I looked once, and that was sufficient : the 
sooner it is forgotten the better. These pits are used only for those 
who die in hospitals and prisons, and are unclaimed by their friends. 
There are three hundred and sixty-five, one of which is opened and 
closed each day in the year. Near this place for the reception of 
the poor and unfortunate, is a new and handsome cemetery, filled 
with costly chapels and vaults, for the reception of those who live 
in fine houses and are well-to-do in the world. The contrast is 
striking ; but when one reflects that there is no distinction here- 
after, all seems vanity and vexation of spirit. 

No city in Italy affords so many pleasant excursions as Naples. 
Whether we turn towards the Miseno shore of the splendid watery 
amphitheatre, and go by the Grotto of Posiiippo to the Grotto del 
Cane and away to Baiae, or take the other way towards Vesuvius 
and Torrento, it is one succession of delights. Our first excursion 
was in the direction of Baiae, celebrated for the beauty of its bay, 
and in ancient times for the number and magnificence of its villas. 
Horace preferred it to all other places. Caesar, Pompey, Marius, 
and other distinguished men, had villas on the coast, which is re- 
garded as more beautiful than that of Naples. Many places of inter- 
est are on the roadside, such as the lake called Agnano, surrounded 
by hills formed of the lava of extinct volcanoes. It is about three 
miles in circumference, very deep, and in constant ebullition from 
the vapors below. In its vicinity are remains of parts of the ancient 
Thermae, called the Stuffe di San Germano, consisting of small 
rooms, in which the heat of the vapor rises to 39° and 40° of Reau- 
mur. Near the lake is also the Grotto del Cane, mentioned by 
Pliny, 1. 2, c. 90. It is about ten feet in depth, nine feet in height, 
and four feet in breadth. A light, inodorous vapor rises about six 
inches from the soil, and in the interior is without incrustations or any 
deposit of saline matter. This grotto, formerly called the Cavern of 
Charon, derives its present appellation from the experiments made 
on a dog, who would die at the end of two minutes if not restored to 



204: A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OB, 

the open air. An old woman always stands at the door of the grotto 
with a little dog tied with a string, which has inhaled the noxious 
vapors so often that it goes through the forms of death as quietly 
as any other dog would gnaw a bone. Between lake Agnano and 
the town of Pozzuoli, is the Solfatara, called by the ancients Forum 
Vulcani, situated in a narrow plain, surrounded by the Monti Luco- 
gei, or the Phlegrean Fields, which was considered, in the time of 
Pliny and Strabo, as a volcano not entirely extinct. Several aper- 
tures exhale a heated vapor, in which the smell of sulphur and am- 
monia predominate. Flames are visible during the night, when the 
fire is also more distinctly heard. The Solfatara appears to have 
been a mountain, the summit of which fell in by the violent action 
of a volcano. The noise produced by walking or the rolling of a 
stone on the surface would indicate that the interior is hollow. 
Numerous mineral waters exist near this spot, and the whole region 
round about shows conclusively that all is fire below. Leaving this 
place, we passed through Pozzuoli, stopping to see the ruined tem- 
ple of Serapis and the Amphitheatre or Coliseum. Going a little 
farther, we passed along the shores of Lake Lucrin and Averno, near 
which are the ruins of the Temple of Diana, Mercury, Venus, and 
the Bay of Baiae, so much lauded of old and so much admired at 
the present day for its safety and its beauty. 

The following day, the same party took the opposite direction, 
and made an excursion to Paestum and the exhumed city of Pom- 
peii, two of the most noted places in the vicinity of Naples. The 
former is remarkable for its ruins — the least aged of them built hun- 
dreds of years before the birth of Christ, and standing yet, erect in 
lonely majesty, upon the wild, malaria-blighted plain. The latter, 
situated sixteen miles from Naples, and near the ball of Vesuvius, 
presents a quiet and beautiful picture compared with the scene 
presented to the inmates of Diomede's house on the day of its de- 
struction. 

As I remarked in the beginning of my letter, nearly all of the 
movables have been carried to the Museum in Naples, but there is 
much remaining to prove the ancient importance of the place, and 
the curious structure of the buildings and streets ; at every turn 
some little familiar token of habitation and every-day pursuits are 
presented to the eye for reflection, — the chafing of the bucket-rope 



205 

in the stone rim of the exhausted well ; the track of carriage- wheels 
in the pavement of the street ; the marks of drinking vessels on the 
stone counter of the wine-shops, and the mills used for grinding the 
corn, all combine to render the solitude and deadly lonesomeness of 
the place ten thousand times more solemn. 

The streets of Pompeii are both narrow and circuitous, with side- 
walks, and the name of each street cut on the curb-stone. The 
houses are built of small brick, and composed of one or two stories, 
generally inclosed in a square court surrounded with porticoes where 
the doors are placed. In the centre of the court is a well or reser- 
voir of water for the use of the establishment. The rooms on the 
ground floor are without internal communication ; they are small 
but lofty, the most of them without windows, being lighted alone 
from the door. The ceiling and walls are covered with painted 
figures of various descriptions, and the floors made of the finest mo- 
saic. The most important buildings are those belonging, as is sup- 
posed, to Caius Sallustius, Vettius, Pressius, and Diomede, besides 
the Temples of Iris, the Temple of Music, Public Baths, Tragical 
Theatre, and Amphitheatre. They are all constructed pretty much 
on the same principle, and very little variety exists, except in the 
frescoes and mosaic. On the front steps of nearly every door I 
noticed in mosaic the word Have or Salve, (meaning welcome,) 
and in the cellar of Diomede's house, which is outside of the walls 
of the city, I noticed the impressions of two bodies in the ashes, 
hardened with the ashes, so impressed and fixed there, after they 
had shrunk inside to scanty bones. The skeleton found here is 
supposed to be that of Diomede, holding in one hand a key and in 
the other coin and gold ornaments, behind which was some inmate 
of his house holding bronze and silver vases, which they were at- 
tempting to save, but were destroyed in the act. 

Between Pompeii and Naples are the ruins of the ancient city of 
Herculaneum, also buried by the eruption of old Vesuvius. The 
Theatre, which is all to be seen, was discovered in 1689 by some in- 
habitants of Rosina, who, having dug to the depth of sixty-five feet 
for a well, found remains of valuable marbles and inscriptions rela- 
tive to Herculaneum. We descended a long flight of steps with 
lighted torches, passed through narrow passages, and actually stood 
upon the stage of the ancient theatre, in which the play was prob- 



206 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

ably going on when the lava rolled down the burning mountain 
and buried them far, far beneath the surface. 

Kosina, which occupies the ancient site of Herculaneum, is the 
great starting point for those who are ambitious to ascend Vesuvius. 
Here we procured ponies and a guide, and proceeded several miles 
over a narrow and rugged path to the foot of the cone, which we 
found to be only the commencement of our difficulties. Leaving 
the ponies at this point, we continued our course upward in various 
ways, according to the disposition and powers of endurance of each 
individual. The ladies were carried in a chair fastened on poles by 
four stout Italians, and some of the gentlemen in the same way. 
One of the party was an old gentleman from the States, remark- 
able for his rotundity and good-humor, and who was very uneasy 
all the while, fearing that something would give way and let him 
roll down in the ashes to the foot of the cone. To avoid all danger, 
he employed six stout men to assist him, who were disposed of in 
the following manner : two to each end of a rope fastened around 
his waist, two with straps over his shoulders, to which he held on 
with his hands, and two in the rear to scotch him when he got out 
of breath. It was a picture worthy of Punch, and worth all the 
labor and fatigue of mounting. After toiling, and panting, and 
laughing, for almost one hour, through ashes and snow, we reached 
the region of Fire. The day was clear, and the noonday sun was 
shedding its brightest rays over the broad sea down below, and tiny 
Naples in the distance, and every village in the country round, 
seemed more lovely and beautiful than ever. Unfortunately th& 
volcano has been quiet for more than a year, and we were not per- 
mitted to see it in all its glory. The smoke, filled with sulphur, the 
noise and the heated vapors, were all that we saw, which was quite 
sufficient to convey an idea of its immensity and grandeur, without 
the lurid flames and red-hot lava. There are two craters on Vesu- 
vius, one of which is almost extinct. We walked through the suffo- 
cating smoke around both of them, and when the wind blew from 
us we could see distinctly one hundred feet into the yawning gulf 
of fire. A young married lady from England, who constituted one 
of our party, accompanied me to the very brim of the crater, but it 
became so hot under our feet that we were compelled to retrace 
our steps hurriedly. After examining the crater to our satisfaction, 



AND ASIA. 207 

roasting and eating a few eggs, and enjoying the extensive prospect 
around us, we commenced the work of descending the almost per- 
pendicular cone, which is quite as amusing as ascending. The 
guides, anxious to give us all the assistance in their power, cautiously 
joined their hands, and made a chain of men ; of whom the fore- 
most beat, as well as they could, a solid foundation with their feet 
and sticks, down which we prepared to follow. The way being fear- 
fully steep, and the ladies being unable to proceed alone, were taken 
out of the litter and placed, each between two careful persons, who 
being supported by the chain of guides, reached the foot in safety ; 
while some of the gentlemen, in their hurry to get down first, lost 
their foot-hold and rolled over and over in the ashes, without any 
injury, and much to the amusement of those behind. Vesuvius is 
situated near the bay, and in sight of Naples, between two moun- 
tains called the Sorama and Ottajano. Though separated, these 
mountains have a common base. It is supposed that formerly they 
were united, and that their separation is due to an eruption which 
rendered them craters. Vesuvius has the form of a cone ; its per- 
pendicular height is 3,375 feet, the circumference of the three moun- 
tains at the base is thirty miles. Three roads lead to the summit, 
that of St. Sebastian to the north, of Ottajano to the east, of Resenia, 
which is the most frequented, to the west. At this time the cone is 
covered with snow, while the vegetation flourishes in full vigor on 
the plains below. 

The Neapolitan government, like that of all the Italian States, is 
in an unsettled condition. The King feels uneasy about his security, 
and relies more upon the valor of the ten thousand Swiss soldiers 
in his employ, than he does upon the fidelity of his own people. 



208 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 



LETTER THIRTY-SEVEN. 

Alexandria, Egypt. 
Departure from Europe — The Pass of Scylla and Charybdis — Mt. iEtna — Messina — The 
Island of Malta — Arrival off Alexandria — Strada Franca — Donkey Stand — Construction 
of the City — The Turkish Quarter — Pasha's Palace — Mud Villages — Private Slave Depot 
— Disorderly Funerals — Lake Mareotis — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle. 

The day we set sail from New- York, and bade adieu, perhaps for 
ever, to our native land, our feelings were altogether different, I 
assure you, from the day when we cleared the harbor of Naples, and 
gazed for the last time on the bright shores of Italy. On the ocean, 
we felt sad for the first day or so, because we had left friends at 
home to whom we are fondly attached, and a country from which 
neither time nor change can ever wean us ; but on the deep-blue 
Mediterranean we had no regrets, no sadness ; for we knew full well 
that we would soon reach the land of promise, where our pilgrimage 
would end, and our faces be turned once more to the shores of the 
United States. 

After procuring a ticket from the police office, stating that we were 
in good health, we were allowed to go on board the French steamer 
from Marseilles and proceed on our voyage to the island of Malta. 
The frigate Independence was anchored in the bay — our flag was 
floating to the breeze, and the sweet notes of "Hail Columbia!" came 
softly to our ears as we glided over the placid waters. Twelve Amer- 
icans stood on the deck, and returned the compliment from our frig- 
ate with three hearty cheers. The steamer turned the island of Capri, 
where old Tiberius once lived in debauchery, and the beauties of 
Naples soon faded in the distance. The following morning we came 
in sight of the snow-covered summit of Mt. iEtna, now reposing in 
its lofty majesty, glided swiftly along the base of the island of Strom- 
boli, rising like a sugar-loaf from the sea, and passed safely between 
Scylla and Charybdis into the beautiful bay of Messina. Here 
we went ashore and rambled about the filthy streets and through 
the churches, where there is nothing to see, until we were admon- 
ished by one of the party that it was time for the steamer to start 
for Malta. From the sea the island of Sicily presents a broken as- 
pect ; but it is closely cultivated and rich in the abundance of all the 



209 

tropical fruits. The next morning we entered the harbor of " La 
Valetta " before the sun was fairly up. We went ashore in a small 
boat, ascended the street of stairs, and were safely ensconced in a 
good English hotel, where we enjoyed, for the first time in many a 
day, a substantial breakfast. Valetta is clean and well built, and is 
the strongest fortified place in the Mediterranean — being built by 
the knights of old, who fled from Rhodes to this barren island for 
safety and solitude. Then the island was hardly known and but 
little cared for ; while now it is the most important point for mili- 
tary purposes in the whole sea, and is regarded by the English as 
impregnable to the attacks of any foreign power. The entire fleet 
of the government in the Mediterranean is concentrated in this har- 
bor, consisting of ten vessels, including one or two war steamers. 
We accepted the invitation of one of the officers of the navy, and 
went on board the Queen, one of the largest ships of the line, carry- 
ing 120 guns and 3,000 men. The officers were extremely polite in 
conducting us over the vessel and explaining to- us the modus 
operandi in an action. Every thing seemed to be on a large scale ; 
but I remarked at the time to one of my companions that they did 
not keep their decks in such order or manage their guns so dexter- 
ously as our American sailors. The palaces and cathedral, dedicated 
to St. John, the patron of the Order, are in a good state of preserva- 
tion, and all occupied as residences and public institutions. The 
palace of the Grand Master is now the residence of the British 
Governor. It contains several fine halls, an armory, a few good 
pictures, and some curious tapestry. In the armory I observed many 
singular things, used by the old knights, and among them a cannon 
made of rope and lined outside with copper, spears, swords, and 
armor of various sizes and descriptions, brought from Rhodes. I 
tried on the armor of the Grand Master Vignacourt, which is inlaid 
with gold and curiously wrought. It was very heavy and cumber- 
some — so much so that I wonder how any man could do much 
fighting or moving about with it weighing on his person. The 
cathedral is not remarkable or attractive externally, but the interior 
affords a rich field for the study of the art and taste of the sixteenth 
and seventeenth centuries. The floor is a mosaic pavement, chiefly 
composed of the sepulchral monuments of the knights, whose effigies, 
in full costume, are represented in white marble. Some of the bells 



210 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

are said to have been brought from Rhodes, and in the chapel of 
the Madonna I noticed some six or eight keys, said to be those of 
the gates of Jerusalem, Acre, and Rhodes. The railing in front of 
the chapel is made of solid silver, which is so dim from age that one 
would never discover its value without being informed. Valetta is 
laid off at right angles, and built altogether of stone houses with 
projecting windows. The streets are kept perfectly clean, and the 
city is well supplied with water by an aqueduct, several miles in 
length, similar in construction to the old Roman aqueducts. The 
island of Malta is perfectly destitute of vegetation, and outside of the 
walls of Valetta and Citta Vecchia all is desolation and barrenness. 
The latter named place was at one time the chief town of Malta, 
but has been superseded by the modern city. It is now interesting 
to the traveller on account of the extensive catacombs, the bay in 
which St. Paul was shipwrecked, and the grotto where he lived as 
the guest of Publius. 

After passing three days very pleasantly in that " little military 
hot-house," we departed on an excellent steamer, belonging to the 
French line, for the shores of Egypt. On the morning of the third 
day we descried in the distance the low coast of Barbary, and on 
the fourth we came in sight of Pompey's Pillar, which was the first 
object opened to our wistful eyes in the land of Pharaoh, Ptolemy, 
and Cleopatra. As we drew nearer to the ancient city we descried, 
through the mist and rain, the narrow Cape of Figs, upon which is 
the modern light-house and the Palace of the Pasha. The wind 
was blowing a perfect gale, and we stood out some time, waiting for 
a pilot to carry us into the dangerous harbor, but none came, and 
our captain, Frenchman-like, became impatient and resolved to go 
through the narrow inlet and run the chances of wrecking his vessel 
on the breakers. Fortunately we escaped all danger, passed along 
a line of merchantmen and vessels of war, filled with turbaned Arabs, 
and came to anchor beneath the lattice windows of the Pasha's 
seraglio. Here an amusing, and to some, frightful scene ensued. 
The anchor had scarcely reached the bottom when a number of small 
Arab boats crowded around the foot of the ladder to carry the pas- 
sengers ashore ; and all the shouting, screaming, pushing and shov- 
ing, that you could possibly imagine, we enjoyed on the occasion. 
The ladies on board were nearly frightened out of their wits, and no 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 211 

wonder, for the very sight of those terrible-looking fellows, with their 
dark flashing eyes, gleaming white teeth, " bearded like the pard," 
and armed with large scimetars, is enough to intimidate at first even 
the boldest. Waiting a short time for the grand farce to subside, 
we selected a boat and started, six in number, for the custom house. 
The rain came down in torrents, and our umbrellas were fastened on 
the trunks, and the fierce-looking Arabs refused to land us without 
receiving their pay in advance, with the view of extorting more if 
they liked. Having been warned by an old traveller of such tricks, 
we drew our empty pistols and gave them to understand, by signs, 
that we would do something terrible if they refused to land, which 
a/jted on them like a charm, and caused them to take up their oars 
and row in quick time. Finding no other conveyance, we all mounted 
donkeys and charged through the narrow and muddy bazaars at 
full speed to l'Hotel d'Europe on the Strada Franca. It was really 
an amusing sight to see six long Americans mounted on donkeys 
about the size of a large goat, and followed by half-naked boys 
punching them up in the rear every few steps with a pointed stick. 
My friend from South Carolina was rather unfortunate in the donkey 
race, as he was not only rolled into a mud hole, but rolled over both 
by the donkey and the boy in such rapid succession that he failed 
to recover without being drenched from top to toe. Arrived at our 
hotel, which is quite large and conducted on the European principle, 
we commenced the work of sight-seeing, and preparing for our voy- 
age up the Nile. The Strada Franca, or Frank quarter, upon which 
my window fronts, is decidedly the best built and most interesting 
part of Alexandria. It is a great square occupied almost entirely 
by Europeans, and used on all public occasions in preference to the 
Turkish quarter. The roofs of the houses are flat and surmounted 
by enormous flag staffs, indicating the residence of some consul or 
foreign minister. On Sundays and festivals a prodigious quantity 
of square yards of banner float from these, and give a very animated 
aspect to the scene. In front of each hotel there is a donkey stand, 
and woe to the stranger that ventures outside of the door without a 
big stick and the resolution to use it. The boys will crowd the 
donkeys around him, and each one cry out with a loud voice ? 
" Master, master, very good donkey ! bone, bone, Pasha's Palace, 
Pompey's Pillar, Catacombs, Slave Market, Turkish bazaar, yes, 



212 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

yes," and the like, in such rapid succession that the stranger has no 
chance without knocking some of them down or retreating precipi- 
tately into the hotel. Alexandria is situated on a narrow and flat 
piece of ground, between Lake Mareotis and the Mediterranean ; the 
streets are narrow, and the houses constructed mostly of crude brick. 
In the Turkish quarter the streets are covered over, so as to protect 
the inhabitants from the burning rays of the sun ; the shops are 
about six or eight feet square, and the merchants' goods in propor- 
tion. Here the foreigner can be initiated somewhat in the manners 
and customs of Eastern life. The Turk sitting with his legs crossed 
and his person enveloped in the smoke of a large pipe ; the females 
passing along with their faces covered, with the exception of their 
eyes, which are usually covered with henna, while their persons are 
entirely hidden by enormous black silk robes, giving them the 
appearance of inflated balloons ; the caravan of camels loaded with 
fruits from the country, and the noise created by the shouts of the 
wild Arabs as they move along the streets, all combine to impress 
one strongly that he is among a peculiar people. After roving 
through the bazaars we visited the Pasha's Palace, situated on the 
Cape of Figs. The exterior is without attraction, but the interior is 
fitted up in a style both comfortable and elegant ; the walls are 
covered with figured silk, and some of the floors are made of ebony, 
inlaid with ivory. The present Pasha is more civilized in his mode 
of life than his predecessors, having ordered a bed to sleep in, of 
European make, instead of lying on the floor like his subjects. My 
donkey-boy, who could speak a little English, was our only inter- 
preter, and it was really amusing to see him walking over the fine 
floors of the palace with his bare and dirty feet, leaving a print at 
every step, while the servants of the establishment were stepping 
about lightly in silk stockings, fearing they would soil or scratch the 
polished surface. The harem adjoins the palace, but so closely 
watched, and constructed so as to prevent intrusion, that the most 
searching eye would fail to distinguish the beauties within. After 
gazing awhile at the walls and indulging our own thoughts, we were 
admonished by the donkey-boy that there was no admittance, and 
started off to see the reverse of life, in the mud villages that surround 
Alexandria. Here we had an opportunity of seeing the habitations 
and mode of life among the lower classes. The streets are from one 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 213 

to three yards in width, extremely tortuous and always dirty ; the 
houses are constructed of corn-stalks, placed together and set up- 
right, over which there is a coating of mud four or five inches in 
thickness ; the roofs are flat, with pigeon boxes built over them, and 
they sleep on the bare ground with no covering, save a little straw. 
I noticed in several of these miserable hovels as many as twelve or 
fifteen human beings in a perfect state of nudity, living among yelp- 
ing dogs and swarms of flies. Most of them were affected with 
ophthalmia, which is a disease of the country, and their only food 
seemed to be a few raw onions and garlic. No wonder that famine 
and the plague make such sad ravages among the benighted people ; 
their mode of life, their filthiness and their indolent habits, all con- 
spire to bring on disease in every shape, and render them miserable 
and degraded. 

While in this quarter, we witnessed an Egyptian funeral, which 
was altogether different from any funeral ceremony we have ever 
seen. The corpse was placed in a square coffin, covered with gaudy 
trappings, and borne on the shoulders of four men, accompanied by 
a troop of boys in front, and women behind, who were making all 
sorts of motions indicating distress, and shouting at the very top of 
their voices. When they observed us looking at them, they in- 
creased their lamentations, and seemed to make light of the cere- 
mony, by the performance of many antics too ridiculous to mention. 

The slave markets of this city are not so extensive as those at 
Cairo, but are conducted on a scale sufficiently large to give one 
some idea of the institution in this country. They are purchased in 
Nubia and Abyssinia, by traders, for a mere song, and sold here and 
elsewhere for fifty or sixty dollars, according to the age and con- 
dition. We went into one of the depots and saw several hundred, 
mostly females, that had just arrived from these countries. They 
were perfectly black, and looked as if they had never seen a white 
face before. As soon as we entered, the master closed the door upon 
us, and would not let us out without giving them backshish (gift). 
The condition of the Egyptian slave is far worse than you have any 
conception. They are fed on onions, garlic, and stale bread — have 
hardly a rag to cover themselves, and are worked very hard. Our 
slaves are perfect lords compared to them ; and notwithstanding all 
that the abolitionists may say, both at home and abroad, they are 



214 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

far better off than the slaves in Africa, or the laboring classes of any 
nation in Europe. I would not, under any circumstances, desire to 
agitate a question that has given rise to so much dissension of late 
in our happy land, but I feel it my duty to say that all Europe is 
against us, and more particularly the English. The subject is in- 
troduced on all occasions, and we are asked, even here, in this be- 
nighted land, if our slaves are not mal-treated and abused. Igno- 
rant of our peculiar institution, and I may say of our country, they 
hold up this subject for our contemplation, and say to us that it is 
a system unworthy of the age. Having almost ruined and rendered 
bankrupt the citizens of her colonies by the abolition of slavery, 
they look with jealousy upon the cotton-growing region of our 
country, and will never rest until we dispose of the institution, or 
silence them in some other way. 

Leaving the subject for the present, let us turn to the monuments 
of Alexandria, which are far, far more intresting than any thing 
modern. They speak of the past — the mighty past ! when Egypt 
was in the zenith of her glory, and Europe in a state of barbarism. 

Near the lake Mareotis, and on the road leading to the Mahmou- 
dieh Canal, stands in majestic solitude Pompey's Pillar, the work 
of other times and other men ! It rises a single shaft of ninety 
feet, and ten feet in diameter, surmounted by a Corinthian capital 
ten feet high, and is not only interesting on account of its monu- 
mental beauty, but designates the centre of the ancient city. It is 
far outside the present walls, and surrounded by Arab huts, in which 
poverty, misery and famine, and other destitution, stared me in the 
face. Cleopatra's Needle also stands to be admired and cherished 
for its antiquity. It was nearly buried at one time with sand, but 
recent excavations have exposed to view the centre obelisk, contain- 
ing hieroglyphics yet to be interpreted, by those who pretend to 
have discovered the meaning of those rude signs. The obelisk is 
made of red granite, brought from Upper Egypt, is sixty feet in 
height, and entirely perfect, except the base and the top, which 
have been broken. On one side the characters are very distinct, 
and as clear as when it came from the hands of the sculptor ; al- 
though on the other, the terrible sirocco, blowing upon it from the 
desert for so many years, has effaced some of the figures, and worn 
away the almost imperishable granite. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 215 

Finishing the sights of Alexandria, we called on Mr. McAuley, 
the American Consul General of Egypt, who is one of the most 
worthy representatives that I have met with from our government. 
He has not only furnished us with all the information and facilities 
for travelling in Egypt, but entertained us in the real old Virginia 
style. 



LETTER THIRTY-EIGHT. 

Cairo, Egypt. 
Departure from Alexandria — Our Boat — Canal of Mahmoudieh — The Rosetta Branch of 
the Nile — Cotton Farms — Villages — First View of the Pyramids — The Barrage — Despe- 
rate Affray with the Villagers of Embarbeh, and its Results. 

Being informed in Alexandria that all the good boats had been taken 
in Cairo, which is the usual place of commencing a voyage up the 
Nile, we procured from an English gentleman in that city a large 
and elegant dahabieh, called the Zeynt al Nile (Ornament of the 
Nile). The dahabieh and cangia are the boats generally used for 
the conveyance of passengers, and differ only in size, the former 
being more commodious and carrying more sail. Our boat has 
four cabins and three masts with lateen sails, like the generality of 
boats on the Nile, and managed by a Reis (captain) and fourteen 
Arab sailors. Several days were occupied in laying in stores for the 
voyage, and drawing up contracts with the owner of the boat and 
our dragoman, which requires as much precision and formality as a 
deed for a tract of land. All things being arranged to our entire 
satisfaction, we appointed a day for starting, and invited all our 
American friends down to the canal to see us off, when we drank in 
tolerable champagne to our country and each other, hoisted our 
banner and our private signal, and set sail from the famed city of 
Alexandria amid the cheers of our friends and the report of firearms. 
The Mahmoudieh canal, which connects the Rosetta branch of the 
Nile with the sea, is far from interesting, and the monotony of its 
banks is not relieved by the old-fashioned telegraphs, rising at inter- 
vals above the dreary plains, which extend on both sides of it to a 
seemingly endless distance. They communicate between Alexandria 



216 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

and this city, but convey intelligence so slowly that they are rarely 
used except for government purposes. The earth thrown up from 
the canal forms an elevated ridge, rising high above the adjacent 
lands, and the only objects that interrupt the uniform level are the 
mounds of old towns, whose solitary and ruined appearance adds 
not a little to the gloominess of the scene. This canal follows part 
of the ancient Canopia branch of the Nile, and the old canal of 
Fooah. It derives its name from the late sultan Mohammed Ali, 
who began and completed the great work in one year, at the cost of 
^OOjOOOf. As many as 150,000 men are said to have been em- 
ployed in digging it, among whom 20,000 perished by accident, 
hunger, and plague. Mohammed Ali, like Napoleon, never conceived 
a project without carrying it through in spite of all difficulties. He 
was a man with but little education, but great natural powers, and 
did much towards elevating the character and improving the condi- 
tion of his country. At Atfeh this canal connects with the Rosetta 
branch of the Nile by a lock, through which the boats pass, after 
paying toll to the government. There is sometimes considerable 
detention on account of the great number of forms necessary to be 
gone through, but a few piastres will satisfy the Bey, and boats are 
allowed to proceed up the river without any further trouble. Atfeh, 
like nearly all the villages on the river as high up as this city, is 
built of crude brick made of mud and straw, with narrow streets, 
filled with dust, smoke, dogs, and sore-eyed Arabs. The mosques in 
the village are quite numerous, but uninteresting, being very inferior 
in an architectural point of view, and so much alike, that there is 
no necessity of visiting but one. All the Egyptians live in the cities 
and villages, except a few who lead a roving life in the deserts. 
Every morning and evening the cultivators of the soil may be seen 
with their implements going to or returning from their daily labor. 
The fields look fresh and green, promising an abundant harvest for 
the Pasha, who owns every thing, and furnishing a grateful pros- 
pect to those who visit the shores of Egypt to avoid the wintry 
blasts of the North. The Eosetta branch of the Nile is about twice 
the width of the Cumberland, the banks are low and caving, and 
the general appearance of the country very much like that of the 
lower Mississippi. This is the cotton region of the country, and if 
properly cultivated would produce the finest staple in the world. I 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICxY, AND ASIA. 217 

went into some of the fields, and found stalks more than eight feet 
high, weighed down almost to the earth with cotton of a superior 
quality. Ten acres is about the largest quantity of land that I have 
seen in one field. The plough is the same as that used about three 
thousand years ago, and their manner of tilling the soil is so primi- 
tive, that its capabilities have never been developed. One of our 
southern planters might come here, and with proper attention, and 
our mode of cultivation, produce the finest staple in the world. The 
climate, the soil, and every thing conspire to make it one of the most 
desirable countries for the cultivation of the cotton plant on this 
side of the Atlantic. 

On the evening of the fourth day, just above the village of Wardan, 
we descried for the first time the great Pyramids, which our drago- 
man informed us were thirty miles distant. The atmosphere • was 
perfectly clear, the varied tints of the declining sun lingered on the 
horizon, and the great wonders of the world stood before our admir- 
ing gaze like huge mountains of stone in a desert where all was 
desolation and loneliness. We drew nearer and nearer, and on the 
following morning they seemed almost twice the size that they ap- 
peared when they first broke on our vision. 

At the junction of the Rosetta and Damietta branches of the Nile, 
we passed through the barrage or dam of arches, commenced some 
years ago under the supervision of M. Linant, a French engineer, and 
still incomplete. The object of this gigantic undertaking is to retain 
the water of the river, in order that it may be used for irrigating the 
lands, when the inundation has retired, and supply the place of 
water wheels, which adds so much to the expense of cultivation. 
There are two dams, one across each branch, consisting of a number 
of well turned brick arches thirty feet in width. A large canal is to be 
carried directly through the centre of the Delta, and the quantity of 
water allowed to pass into this, and the two branches of the river, 
is to be regulated by means of sluices, according to circumstances. 
The principal arches of both dams are to be always kept open, but 
the lateral arches are to be closed when the river is low ; by which 
means enough water will be furnished to fill the canals intended for 
irrigation of the interior. The entire structure is massive and grace- 
ful ; but as the character of the river and soil is so much like the 
Mississippi, I fear that the foundations will give way, and that much 

10 



218 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

money and labor will be expended by the government without any 
beneficial result. 

Just after daylight the following morning, the party were aroused 
by a terrible noise on shore, which turned out to be a fight between 
our crew and the villagers of Embarbeh about a log of wood. One of 
the party went out and endeavored to separate the belligerents, but 
his efforts were without avail : the wild Arabs seemed perfectly 
furious, and continued to beat each other with long sticks, which 
they always carry as a weapon of defence. Seeing that he could 
do nothing towards separating them, he started back to the boat, and 
was informed before reaching it, by one of the crew, that they had 
killed our reis (captain). This, however, turned out to be a mis- 
take, as he was brought on board a few minutes after, severely 
wounded. At this stage of the difficulty the oldest member of the 
party went out with a double-barrel shot gun, and followed by a 
servant with a pistol in his hand. His object was not to renew the 
fight, but merely to maintain the right of navigation, and see that our 
men were permitted to track along the bank, which is the usual 
way of proceeding when they have no wind. The villagers planted 
themselves in front of our crew, and said they should not proceed ; 
whereupon our friend raised his gun to intimidate them, when an 
athletic Arab rushed up behind and pinioned him, inflicting blows 
also on his person with their long sticks, which felled him to the 
earth. The servant who was aiding his master was also struck on 
the head and severely wounded in the neck by a pistol shot. At 
this stage of the action two other members of the party rushed out 
to their rescue with a revolver, holster pistol, and dirk-knife. As 
soon as they reached the top of the bank, between sixty and one 
hundred hostile Arabs rushed upon them with their sticks, but soon 
retreated under their fire, with the exception of two who seemed 
perfectly furious, and determined to murder them. Having fired off 
every barrel, the knife and bludgeons came into play, the sight of 
which induced the Arabs to retreat to a field of sugar-cane close at 
hand, and give our friends an opportunity of getting on the boat, 
which had left the shore and was floating down the current. All 
being on board, our crew poled on the opposite side to Boulak, 
while we re-loaded our guns in case of any further use. Several 
boats, crowded with Arabs, came over afterwards, but we were not 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 219 

molested, and succeeded in reaching the British Hotel in this city in 
safety. 

The news of the affray preceded us, and all was excitement in the 
Frank quarter, where exaggerated accounts of the origin and results 
of the difficulty were circulating rapidly. Having a Vice Consul 
here, we immediately made known to him the whole affair, and 
drew up a statement of the matter for the benefit of the Pasha and 
Chief of Police. Some of the Arabs fled to the desert, but have 
since been caught and imprisoned, together with nearly every man 
in the village, and some of our crew. A few days afterwards wo 
were all summoned by our Consul, who is a native, to appear before 
the Pasha and Chief of Police, to give in our evidence, and to point 
out those who were engaged in the fight. The wounded Arabs were 
brought in first, and made statements altogether false and ridiculous ; 
no two of them concurred, and the Pasha seemed to regard their 
testimony as worthless. They all looked so much alike that w T e 
found it utterly impossible to point out one of them, or say, with any 
certainty, that they were engaged in the fight. During the investi- 
gation of the facts we appeared before the Pasha several times, and 
were always received with marked respect. Seated with our legs 
crossed, in the Turkish manner, on the cushions ranged around the 
room, we sipped coffee, smoked pipe, and conversed freely with him, 
while the poor Arabs were trembling in fear before us. Mr. McAuley, 
our Consul General at Alexandria, and our Vice Consul in this city, 
deserve much praise for the vigorous manner in which they have 
prosecuted our cause, and secured the rights of American citizens. 
The Arabs are not only to be bastinadoed publicly, but all damages 
paid, and the protection of the government guaranteed to us during 
our sojourn in Egypt. 

Those of our party who were wounded in the affray are out of all 
danger, and we hope to continue our voyage up the Nile in peace 
and quietude. 



220 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 



LETTER THIRTY-NINE. 

Cairo, Egypt. 
The Citadel — Joseph's Well — Palaces — Mosques — Bazaars— Frank Quarter — Old Cairo — 
Tombs — Nileometer and Isle of Roda — Festivals and sights — Excursions — The Pasha and 
his Government, etc. 

Cairo, the capital of Egypt and residence of Abbas Pasha, is much 
larger, and far more curious and interesting than Alexandria, the 
commercial metropolis of the country. In the latter city, Euro- 
peans have become so numerous and acquired such a strong hold, 
that it has lost much of its eastern character ; but here the Arab and 
the Turk may be seen living in their own peculiar habitations, and 
enjoying their old customs and habits, in spite of the invasions of 
other races and the advancement of the age. One of my first ram- 
bles in Cairo was to the Citadel, situated on a lofty hill, forming the 
commencement of the great chain that extends along the east bank 
of the Nile, and commanding a superb view of the city and the 
surrounding country, taking in the arsenal immediately below the 
splendid mosque of Sultan Hassan, the numerous minarets of Cairo, 
and in the distance the Pyramids, with the valley of the Nile, to 
Sakkara on the south, and to the commencement of the Delta on 
the north. This strongly fortified place was constructed by Saladin 
to command and protect the city from the invasion of the Franks. 
"While at work upon it they discovered a deep well near the centre, 
that had been cut by the ancients, and was then filled with sand, 
which they excavated, and brought another welcome supply of water 
to the Citadel by an aqueduct, which conveys a continuous stream 
from the Nile. It is called Joseph's well, and consists of two parts, 
the upper and lower well, and a flight of steps leads to the bottom, 
a depth of about two hundred and fifty feet. It is walled up with 
hewn stones. The water is drawn by means of donkeys attached to 
a wheel covered with buckets or earthen jars made for the purpose. 
Besides the well, the Citadel contains several objects worthy of notice, 
such as the Pasha's palace, a new work commenced by Mohammed 
Ali, the site of Joseph's Hall, and the arsenal. This palace, like all 
the rest built in modern times, is furnished almost entirely according 
to the French style, and contains only a few evidences of eastern 






LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 221 

customs, such as the baths and ottomans which were used in the early- 
periods. 

Returning from the Citadel, we entered the Mosque of Sultan 
Hassan, which is one among the finest of the four hundred mosques 
in Cairo, and regarded by the Cairenes as the best specimen of Sara- 
cenic architecture now extant. Its lofty and beautifully ornamented 
porch, the rich cornice of its walls, its minaret, and the arches of its 
spacious court, cannot fail to be admired by those fond of architecture, 
notwithstanding it is all coated with dust and dirt. The interior 
differs somewhat in form from the old style of mosques, consisting of 
an hypaethral court, with a square recess on each side, covered by a 
broad and beautiful arch. At the inner end of it are the niche of 
the imam, who prays before the congregation on Friday, and the 
mumber or pulpit around which the people may be seen at all times 
of the day kneeling and bowing their faces to the earth. Before 
saying their prayers they always wash their faces and feet in a pool 
of water in the centre of the court ; and it matters not where they 
are, whether on the banks of the Nile or in the desert, they always 
perform these ablutions, turn their backs to the sun, and bow their 
faces to the earth twelve or fifteen times before finishing, repeating 
at the same time the prayers which they learn in childhood from the 
Koran. In the absence of water, they take sand and rub their faces 
and feet four or five times during the day. They evince great devo- 
tion and sincerity while on their knees, but as soon as they finish, 
they are ready to filch your purse, tell you a falsehood, or do any 
other rascality in their power. In the Mosque of Sultan Hassan I 
observed the tomb of Hagira, which bears the date of 764. It is 
surmounted by a large dome, like many others made of wood and 
plaster, on a basement and walls of stone, and ornamented with 
various figures out of the same material. On the tomb itself is a 
large copy of the Koran, written in beautiful and distinct characters, 
and over it are suspended three colored lamps, which are generally 
used in mosques. ~No one is allowed to enter a mosque without first 
taking off his shoes and depositing them at the door, and when he 
returns he is either compelled to fight his way through a crowd of 
beggars, who always hang about such places, or pay backshish, 
which is equally disagreeable, as you can never satisfy them, it 
matters not how much you give. 



, 



222 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OK, 

The narrowness of the streets of Cairo and their great irregularity 
may strike an American accustomed to broad thoroughfares as an 
imperfection in a large city, but their Oriental character fully com- 
pensates for this objection ; and of all eastern towns none is so 
interesting in this respect as the Egyptian capital. In the bazaars, 
the mosques, and private residences, the same peculiarities may be 
observed, and no one can ramble through them without recalling his 
early impressions of " Arabian Nights." In the Frank quarter these 
peculiarities are not so striking, the hotels and houses generally 
being constructed more on the European plan, and the great square 
and gardens which adorn this quarter are filled in the afternoons by 
persons wearing the European dress. The gardens are beautifully 
shaded with the Acsein Lobbekh, and other ornamental trees, and 
the walks laid out with great taste, affording a delightful promenade 
for those who wish to enjoy the fragrance of flowers and inhale the 
pure air of this climate. 

A visit to Old Cairo, which is situated on the river about three 
miles south of the city, fully compensates one for the donkey ride, 
and the quantity of dust he must necessarily inhale before reaching 
there. The streets are hardly wide enough for two persons to walk 
together. The houses are constructed of crude brick, one story in 
height ; the inhabitants live like rats, all crowded together in rooms 
where there is but little light or ventilation. The Greek Convent, 
Mosque of Omar, and Ceptic Church are all very curious and inter- 
esting, on account of their antiquity. In the basement of the church 
we were shown a small apartment in which the Holy Family are 
said to have lived while in Cairo, and several pictures are hanging 
on the walls representing their flight into Egypt. 

Opposite Old Cairo is the island of Roda, which Arab tradition 
fixes as the place where Moses was found by the daughter of Pharaoh. 
It is separated from the city by a canal, and contains on its southern 
extremity an elegant palace, recently built by Abbas Pasha for his 
mother, and the Mekkeeas, or Nileometer, of the ancient Egyptians. 
I had heard much of the Nileometer, and was disappointed to find 
nothing but a square well or chamber, with a graduated pillar in the 
centre for ascertaining the daily rise of the ISTile, which is proclaimed 
every morning, during the inundation, by four criers, to each of 
whom a particular portion of the city is assigned. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 22 ., 

The festivals and sights of Cairo are both numerous and curious. 
We witnessed the return of the Pilgrims from Mecca, which is one 
of their annual ceremonies. The procession contained many thou- 
sands, and the Holy Camel, elegantly caparisoned, was conducted 
through the streets with great pomp and parade. The Mooled e 
ISTabbee, or " birth-day of the Prophet" Mohammed, is a fete that 
begins soon after their return and occupies a whole week. It is held 
in the Uzbekieh or great square in the Frank quarter, which is filled 
with booths, swings and other things erected on the occasion, giving 
it the appearance of a camp or fair. During this period the Saadieh 
derwishes, the modern Psylli, occupy their booths day and night, 
and perform all sorts of fanatical motions and juggling tricks with 
snakes, some of which are truly disgusting. On the evening of the 
last day the ceremony called the Doseh is gone through with, which 
no one can witness, except, such people, without feelings of horror 
and disgust. On this occasion the sheikh of the Saadieh, mounted 
on horseback and accompanied by the derwishes of various orders, 
with their banners, goes in i3rocession to the Uzbekieh, where these 
wild fanatics throw themselves on the ground, and being wedged 
close together permit the sheikh to ride over their bodies, and con- 
sider themselves as unfortunate if the horse fails to tread upon them. 
After this is over, a grand ceremony is performed at the house of 
their president, the Sheikh el Beker, the reputed descendant of 
Abou Beker Saadieh. 

The bridal processions are also very curious, being composed 
entirely of females mounted on donkeys, after the manner of men, 
covered up with large silk robes, with the exception of their eyes, 
and each one uttering a shrill whistle as they pass along the streets. 
They go in single file from the lady's house to the house of her hus- 
band, and those who constitute the procession are paid as at funerals 
to increase the display and do the whistling. 

To describe the various strange sights of this wonderful city would 
require a volume. Something new and interesting presents itself 
for contemplation every time we go out, and one may spend months 
here both profitably and pleasantly. The excursions in the neigh- 
borhood of Cairo are very numerous, and require a great deal of 
time to make them satisfactorily. Our first ride was out to Heliop- 
olis, or the ancient city of On, mentioned in Genesis. It is situated 



224 

five miles north of Cairo, and contains a large granite obelisk, 
remains of sphinxes, mounds of the old town, and the fountain of 
the Sun, all of which mark conclusively the site of that city. Return- 
ing, we passed by the old sycamore tree under which the Holy Fam- 
ily rested while in Egypt, and the tomb of El Ghoree, now in ruins. 
Like that of the Memlook Kings it is constructed of stuccoed brick- 
work, and covered with a dome ornamented inside with paintings 
and curious figures. 

The gardens of Shoobra and the Petrified Forest are also objects 
of considerable interest. The former is attached to the Palace of 
Abbas Pasha, is laid out in the European style, and managed by 
Italian gardeners. The forest is in the desert, and consists of great 
quantities of petrified wood and fossils, embracing the crab, cehini, 
etc. Some of the wood measures as much as thirty feet in length, 
and abounds in great quantities. The # most interesting excursion 
from this city is to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, situated off the west 
bank of the Nile, five miles from the village of the same name. 
Our party went over on donkeys, and occupied an entire day in 
examining the pyramids and the site of Memphis. The pyramids 
of Ghizeh, like those of Aboowash, Sakkam, and Dashoor, are situ- 
ated in the desert, a short distance from the tillable land. They 
were originally cased with polished stone, which has disappeared 
with the exception of the upper part of the second pyramid. We 
ascended on the outside of the largest one to the summit in Hve 
minutes, with the assistance of two Bedouin guides whom we em- 
ployed from the sheik, in order to avoid the trouble of being asked 
for backshish. There is a space about thirty-two feet square on the 
top covered over with the names of visitors, and the view is very 
extensive, embracing all the pyramids, the city of Cairo, the river 
for many miles, and the great desert on the west. 

The exterior is built of a large block of sandstone which would 
have crumbled to pieces long since in any other climate. The inte- 
rior is made with red granite, so well put together that it is as strong 
and as perfect in all its parts as it was when first completed. The 
passages leading to the great chambers are not more than Hve feet 
square, and the ventilation inside is so bad, that it is unpleasant to 
remain even a few minutes. So many persons have gone through 
these passages that they are worn perfectly smooth, and it was not 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 225 

without considerable danger that we groped our way with bad lights, 
and our eyes filled with dust, to the sarcophagus of the great king. 
A great number of tombs and mummy pits are scattered around the 
pyramids of Ghizeh, near to which is the great Sphinx, half covered 
with sand. Its head, neck, shoulders, and breast are still uncovered ; 
its face, though worn and much broken, is mild, amiable and expres- 
sive, seeming, among the tombs around it, like a divinity guarding 
the dead. In view of the Sphinx, and close to the pyramids of 
Sakkara, is the site of ancient Memphis, of which little or nothing 
now exists, but a large colossus of Remeses II., a few fragments of 
granite, and some substructions. The colossus is broken at the feet, 
and part of the case is wanting, but its original size can readily be 
discovered, and may be estimated at forty-two feet eight inches in 
height, excluding the pedestal. The expression of the face is much 
better preserved than that of the Sphinx, and considered beautiful 
by the ladies who made the excursion with us. 

The government of Egypt is nominally under the control of the 
Sultan of Turkey, to whom an annual tribute is paid ; but in reality 
Abbas Pasha may be said to have things entirely in his own hands, 
and the connection is merely kept up for the sake of protection. 
England and Russia have their eyes at present upon this country, 
and fear of each other is the only thing that keeps them from taking- 
possession of it. The motives for conquest on the part of the former 
country are increasing every year. The great overland route to 
India passes through this capital, and thousands of English subjects 
are settling in the country, creating interests that must eventually 
result in conquest. They have prevailed on the Pasha to allow them 
to connect Alexandria with Cairo by railway, against the wishes of 
the Emperor of Russia, and the British Consul General in Cairo has 
more influence with the Pasha than any other foreign ambassador 
and I may say even his own advisers. 

10* 



226 



LETTER FORTY. 

Thebes, Egypt. 
Journey up the Nile — Grottoes of Beni Hassan — Osioot — Temple of Dendera — Thebes, 
Karnak, and Luxor — Temple and Dancing Girls at Esneh — Temple at Edfou — The First 
Cataract — Island of Philse — The Nile above Philse, and Incidents connected with the 
Journey. 

Having ascended the Nile some distance above the first cataract, 
we are now at anchor opposite the ruins of the ancient city of 
Thebes, on our way back to Cairo ; and I embrace the opportunity 
of writing a description of our journey, while the boat stands quietly 
along the shore, and all on board, except the faithful watchman, are 
wrapped in the arms of Morpheus. 

We were detained ten days in Cairo, on account of the difficulty 
with the villagers of Embarbeh, which I alluded to in a previous 
letter ; after which we set sail with the determination to avoid, if 
possible, any further trouble, and make our journey as agreeable and 
profitable as circumstances would admit. Our reis, in order to pre- 
vent any communication between the crew and those on shore, an- 
chored the first night in the middle of the river, opposite Old Cairo, 
and started the following morning under a spanking breeze, long 
before we aw T oke. The next day brought us to Benisooef, the first 
large town, which is seventy-seven miles above Cairo. It is the 
capital of the province of Beylik, and residence of the Governor, 
whose palace can be seen from the river. Here the wind failed us, 
and we were compelled to track three days along the monotonous 
shore; but having guns and plenty of ammunition on board, we 
amused ourselves shooting at ducks, geese, and pigeons, which are 
abundant in Egypt. The novelty, also, of seeing the Arab sailors, 
in a perfect state of nudity, and their heads shaved close, with the 
exception of a small patch on top, by which they expect to be 
drawn into heaven, was sufficiently amusing to divert our attention 
from the slow progress we were making. Just before reaching Gebel 
Shekh Embarak, which is a lofty table mountain, approaching near 
the river, we were alarmed a second time by a large body of men 
and women, running to a point ahead of us, and armed with guns, 
pistols, and the long stick which they use so effectually in their dif- 



LETTERS FROM EUROrE, AFRICA, AJS T D ASIA. 227 

ficulties. Thinking that some of those in the Embarbeh affray had 
pursued us, and aroused the villagers of Tokai to join them in an 
attack, we immediately loaded our guns and prepared the deck for 
an action, if they attempted to board us. It turned out, however, 
that we were not the object of their pursuit, but the Bedouins of the 
village of El Madal, who were attempting to take away their lands. 
Several guns were fired, and the Bedouins, retreated to the desert, 
leaving the villagers of Tokai in their rightful possession. A steamer 
came along about this time, and fearing the Pasha might be on 
board, they laid down their weapons in the grass and hid themselves 
very much after the manner of our western Indians. 

Just before reaching Minieh, the second large town, there is a 
long, black-looking bluff, running close to the river, on the east bank, 
called Gebel e Tayr, (the mountain of the bird,) with a low stone 
convent, of the rudest nature, on its summit, named Sitteh (Sittina) 
Mariana el Adra, " Our Lady Mary the Virgin." It is inhabited by 
Copts, who live there like vultures, to spy out an apportunity of 
getting a few paras or piastres. Four or five of these creatures 
swam out to our boat, crying out at the top of their voices, " Ana 
Christian ya Hawagee ! " One succeeded in getting on board ; but 
our crew (who were all Mohammedans) pushed the others off, fear- 
ing that they would carry away all of our loose change. We gave 
the fortunate one a few piastres and an empty bottle, which he put 
into his mouth, darted into the water like a duck, and made for 
another passenger boat just behind us. We saw on the same day 
several Shereefs, on their return from a pilgrimage to Mecca. They 
claimed to be descendants of the Prophet, wore green veils, and 
carried a banner and drum with them. Like almost every Arab 
that we have met in Egypt, they cried out, " Backshish Hawagee !" 
and seemed to consider that their position entitled them to a gift 
from our hands. 

At Osioot, the third large town, we stopped twenty-four hours, for 
our crew to make bread, which is required three times on a voyage 
up and down the Nile. They bake it in large ovens made for the 
purpose, out of meal from the dhoura, which is a species of maize, 
with a grain about the size of a pea. The bread is very dark, and 
becomes in a few days almost as hard as a stone, which they soften 
by boiling it, and mix in a few onions and garlic for seasoning. 



228 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

This crude mixture constitutes their only food, except, occasionally, 
when they have a chance to steal a little sugar cane, or receive a 
sheep as a present from the Hawagee. Osioot is situated about one 
mile from the river, and is the largest, best built, and cleanest town 
in Upper Egypt. It is also the residence of a Governor, and con- 
tains some mosques and tombs of interest. Before leaving Osioot, 
Abbas Pasha came up from Cairo in a steamer, accompanied by two 
other steamers and the boat of the English Consul. We gave him 
thirty guns and lowered our flag, which is the usual mode of salu- 
tation on the Nile. Our salute was returned in a handsome man- 
ner, and acknowledged by the Pasha in person. 

Speaking of steamers reminds me to state that there are now four- 
teen on the river, all belonging to the Government. One or two of 
them have been employed during the winter as passenger boats to 
the first cataract, and have succeeded well — carrying twenty or 
thirty persons, at £25 each, and performing the trip in eighteen days, 
including stoppages. In a few years the dahabieh and cangia will 
go out of use, and travellers up the Nile will perform the trip in one 
third of the time which it now occupies. At Geneh, which is about 
fifty miles below Thebes, we met a number of rafts, made of earthen 
water jars, several hundred feet in length. These jars are manufac- 
tured out of a porous clay, found in a valley near Geneh, which pos- 
sesses the quality of filtering the water and keeping it as cold as ice 
in the warmest weather. They are made of all sizes, and are uni- 
versally used by the Egyptians in preference to any other vessel. 
They are the very things we want in our country. I have taken 
such a fancy to them that I procured some of the clay, which can 
be analyzed and compared with the different qualities of clay in 
Tennessee. While in Geneh, we saw eight young giraffes, recently 
taken in Soudan by the wild Arabs, who intend presenting them to 
Abbas Pasha. They were beautiful animals, and looked entirely 
different in their wild state from the caged beast that we sometimes 
see in shows. Opposite Geneh, on the west bank, is the temple of 
Dendera, erected about eighteen hundred years ago, probably by 
Cleopatra, and dedicated to the goddess of Athor. Egyptian sculp- 
ture had long been on the decline before the erection of this tem- 
ple. The plan is good, but the figures and hieroglyphics are not so 
well executed as those on the temples of Karnak and Philae. It is, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 229 

however, under roof, and more perfectly preserved than any ancient 
building in Egypt. 

Thebes, Karnak, and Luxor contain objects of curiosity and won- 
der that would furnish the mind with food for six months' digestion. 
The great extent, magnitude, and beauty of the ruins cannot be 
exaggerated. " They stand in all the nakedness of desolation where 
they stood thousands of years ago, in the unwatered sands, in soli- 
tude and silence." At this day the temples of Thebes are familiar 
to every reader, by the descriptive pens of tourists. Artists have 
taken drawings of all their minute details, and I shall dismiss them 
very briefly. It was about noon when we entered the harbor of 
Thebes ; the sun was shining upon it with meridian splendor ; the 
inhabitants were seeking shelter in their miserable huts from its 
scorching rays ; and the Europeans in the numerous pleasure boats 
scattered up and down the Luxor shore were enjoying repose be- 
neath awnings stretched in front of their cabins. We had hardly 
made fast to the shore when a group of Arabs, smoking under the 
shade of some palm trees on a point above, discovered us, and came 
hurriedly down with books filled with recommendations, and propos- 
ing to act as guides in conducting us through the ruins. Securing 
one of these men who spoke a few words of French, and still fewer 
of the English language, we followed his footsteps first to the ruins 
of Luxor, which are situated on the Arabian side and very near the 
bank of the river. Although the temple is much hidden by the 
huts of the present inhabitants, there is much to see and learn of the 
ancient mode of building in the structure of the propylon, which is 
almost perfect and covered over with sculpture representing the bat- 
tle scenes of an Egyptian warrior, designed and executed with extra- 
ordinary force and spirit. Near this magnificent gateway is the great 
obelisk, corresponding with the one in Paris, but more elegant in its 
execution, and better preserved than any now in Egypt. Between 
the obelisk and the great propylon are two colossal statues with 
mitred head-dresses, and made out of single blocks of granite, which 
are buried to the chest in sand, but still rising more than twenty 
feet from the ground. The temple is now occupied by a French 
physician, and a native who speaks a little English, and acts as con- 
sul for nearly all the nations of Europe. But great and magnifi- 
cent as was the temple of Luxor, it falls into utter insignificance 



230 

when compared with the wonderful ruins at Karnak, situated about 
one mile south of it. The road connecting the two places was orig- 
inally lined with rows of solid granite sphinxes, most of which are 
now broken, and, for the most part, buried under the sand or hidden 
from sight by the half eh grass. Four magnificent propyl ons termi- 
nate this avenue of sphinxes, through which the ancient Egyptians 
passed to offer up their devotions in the great temple. Here we 
beheld for the first time the wonders of this gigantic structure, which 
has been the object of admiration for ages past, and which defies all 
description. To stand in the large court and feast the eyes on the 
vast field of ruins which occupy more than a mile in diameter, is an 
easy and agreeable matter ; but to convey to a distant friend any just 
idea of the magnitude and splendor of the temple is utterly impos- 
sible. To appreciate its beauties, you must see it with your own 
eyes and form your own conclusions. " No man can look upon 
these ruins without feeling humbled by the greatness of a people 
who have passed away for ever." Looking forward from the centre 
of the principal gateway, the vast scene of havoc and destruction 
presents itself in all the extent of this immense temple — with its 
columns, and walls, and immense propylons, all prostrate in one 
heap of ruins, looking as if the " thunders of heaven had smitten it 
at the command of an insulted God." The temple itself is esti- 
mated at 1200 feet in length and 240 in breadth; and the great 
hall measures 1T0 feet by 329, supported by twelve massive col- 
umns 66 feet high and 12 feet in diameter — besides 122 of smaller 
dimensions, about 42 feet in height, and 28 feet in circumference, 
divided in seven lines on either side of the central avenue. Passing 
out of the great hall, which is the most perfect part of the temple, 
we came to four beautiful obelisks, two of which stand on their 
original site, the others having been thrown down and broken by 
human violence. Next came the sanctuary, consisting of an apart- 
ment twenty feet square, the walls and ceilings of large blocks of 
smooth granite — the ceilings ornamented with stars on a blue 
ground, and the walls covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics 
representing offerings to Osiris, showing the strange uses of this 
sacred chamber, and portraying the low and degrading character of 
the Egyptian worship. Numerous chambers of similar dimensions 
surround the sanctuary, and beyond it is the columnar edifice of the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 231 

third Thotmus, now in a dilapidated condition, but sufficiently per- 
fect to convey an accurate idea of its dimensions and appearance. 
Those who have investigated the history of Karnak, represent its 
antiquity as surpassing that of any other building in Thebes, by at 
least one hundred years. But these are not half of the ruins of 
ancient Thebes. On the opposite or western side of the river we 
passed two whole days in rambling through tombs and temples, 
some of which are in an excellent state of preservation. The Arabs 
who rowed us over from Luxor landed the boat on a small island, 
and after much difficulty with the donkey boys who were eager to 
engage their animals, we were conducted to the ruins of the small 
temple palace, at Old Kooneh, dedicated to Amnion, the Theban 
Jupiter, by Osirei, and completed by Remeses II., the supposed 
Sesostris of the Greeks. This temple, as it now stands, presents a 
spacious hall supported by six columns, having on either side three 
chambers, one of which enters into a lateral hall, and the opposite 
one to a passage and open court. Upon the upper end of this hall 
open five other chambers, the centre one of which leads to a large 
room supported by four square columns, beyond which is the sanc- 
tuary itself; but this part of the temple is so much dilapidated that 
we could not form an accurate idea of its proportions. A short dis- 
tance from the temple are two mutilated statues of Remeses II., of 
black granite — and a little beyond, a sandstone block of Remeses III. 
From this place our guide conducted us through a deep and barren 
valley called Biban el Mahook, the Tombs of the Kings, which are 
decidedly the most curious remains on this side of the river. We 
entered those numbered 17, 11, 9, 6, 1, and 14, all of which are 
exceedingly interesting, and of the same general character. "No. 17, 
better known as Belzoni's tomb, is the best preserved and by far the 
most remarkable for its sculptures. We entered by a small door in 
the side of the mountain, without any inscription or ornament. The 
entrance hall, which is very beautiful, is about 27 or 28 feet in 
length and 25 in breadth, and leads through a square door into 
another chamber 28 feet long by 25, the walls covered with small 
figures drawn in outline, but perfect as if lately executed. Descend- 
ing another staircase or passage, we passed through an elegant cor- 
ridor into another apartment 24 feet by 13. This is called the 
Hall of Beauty — and fully merits the appellation. " The sides of 



232 

all the chambers and corridors are covered with sculpture and 
paintings, the colors appearing fresher as the visitor advances 
towards the interior of the tomb ; and the walls of this chamber are 
covered with the figures of the Egyptian gods and goddesses seeming 
to hover around and guard the remains of the honored dead." 

Two French artists were copying the figures in this chamber by 
the light of lamps which illuminated the tomb so brilliantly that 
we could see the smallest figure with the utmost distinctness. These 
gentlemen have been in the tomb nearly two weeks without seeing 
the light of day, and seem to be perfectly enthusiastic on Egyptian 
sculpture and paintings. They received us with the greatest kind- 
ness, and made many inquiries about the condition of France and 
affairs in Europe. Taking a glass of champagne with them, we pro- 
ceeded to the next apartment, called by Belzoni the Hall of Pillars. 
It is nearly square, being 28 feet long and 27 feet broad, supported 
by two rows of square pillars, and connected with a large saloon 
with a vaulted roof, 32 feet in length and 27 in breadth. Several 
other chambers of different sizes open into this room — one of which 
is unfinished, and the rest similar to the larger rooms. An alabaster 
sarcophagus formerly occupied the centre of the arched chamber, 
but like many other things, it has been removed to decorate some 
European museum. Every part of this tomb is in keeping. The 
corridors, chambers, and halls are ornamented with sculptures and 
paintings, representing gods, goddesses, and the hero of the tomb in 
the striking events of his life — priests, religious processions and 
sacrifices, boats and agricultural scenes, and the most familiar pic- 
tures of early Egyptian life, in colors as fresh as if they were painted 
but yesterday. That these magnificent subterranean chambers were 
used for the tombs of potentates there can be no doubt, as the sar- 
cophagus in each one amply testifies ; but that they were used for 
this purpose alone is clearly a mistake, and fully disproved in the 
book of Ezekiel, viii. 8-10 : "Then said he to me, Son of man, dig 
now in the wall ; and when I had digged in the wall, behold a door. 
And he said unto me, Go in and behold the wicked abominations 
that they do here. So I went in, and saw ; and behold, every form 
of creeping things, and abominable beasts, and all the idols of the 
house of Israel portrayed upon the wall round about." The people 
of Israel regarded the Egyptians as models in every thing pertaining 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 233 

to architecture, and consequently the passage just quoted is quite as 
applicable to the one country as the other. 

Leaving this interesting place, we crossed a high and barren 
range of hills to Medinet Abou, near which stand the two colossi of 
the plain and the palace of the great Remeses (the Remeseum, 
generally called the Memnonium). Medinet Abou is one of the four 
temples mentioned by Diodorus, and is far more extensive than any 
other on the western side of the river. The two colossi, one of 
which is called the Vocal Memnonium, stand in the centre of the 
plain, about forty feet apart, and face the river. They are made of 
a kind of spotted gritstone, and measure forty-seven feet in height, 
or fifty-three above the plain, and the pedestal, which is now buried 
about seven feet below the surface, completes to its base a total of 
sixty-eight feet. We walked around the mighty giants of the plain, 
once the wonder of the ancients, but we heard no sound either from 
above or below, and cannot therefore testify to the statement of 
Strabo, who heard distinctly the voice of the great Memnon. These 
wonderful statues have been frequently restored, evidences of which 
are quite visible ; yet the desolating effects of time and the ruthless 
hand of the Arab have so mutilated their external appearance, that 
we could form only a faint idea of the features and expression 
of the face. The temple of Memnon or Remeseum is not so exten- 
sive as Medinet Abou, but far more interesting, and for symmetry 
of architecture and elegance of sculpture, I regard it as being equal 
to any other monument of Egyptian art. The greatest attraction 
about this temple is the remains of a stupendous syenite statue of 
the king, seated on the throne in the usual position of Egyptian 
figures — the hands resting on his knees, indicative of that tranquillity 
which he had returned to enjoy after the fatigues of victory. It is 
the largest statue in Egypt, and the greatest mass of hewn stone 
that I have ever seen — containing by estimation three times the solid 
contents of the largest obelisk, and weighing about eight hundred 
and eighty-seven tons. How the Egyptians could transport and erect 
a mass of such dimensions is a problem yet to be solved, and what 
means they employed to destroy it is equally wonderful. The throne 
and legs are completely destroyed and reduced to comparatively 
small fragments, while the upper part, broken at the waist, is merely 
thrown back upon the ground, and lies in that position in conse- 



234 • A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OB, 

quence of the fall. We examined several smaller temples of great 
beauty, and then proceeded to the Tombs of the Queens, situated 
three thousand feet behind the city. They possess few attractions 
after visiting the Tombs of the Kings, for those who are not inter- 
ested in examining and deciphering the hieroglyphics. Near these 
tombs are innumerable mummy pits, in which I saw the ravenous 
Arabs digging for relics and hidden treasures. Indeed, the pleasure 
of one's visit to Thebes is almost destroyed by these grave-robbers, 
who hang around with their arms filled with skulls, hands, feet, and 
other portions of the human body, for you to purchase. 

Fatigued by the labors of the day, we returned to our boat and 
set off for Esneh, the next large town on the river. As we passed 
by the ruins of the ancient Thebes, the sun was just declining behind 
the hills, revealing a picture surpassingly beautiful. The whole 
horizon was one sheet of brilliant and variegated colors — reflecting 
a thousand hues on the hill tops and temples, leaving an impression 
on our minds that can never be forgotten. 

The following day we reached Esneh, situated on the west bank of the 
river. The only object of interest here is a temple that was excavated 
from the accumulated sand, by order of Mohammed Ali, in 1 842. The 
portico is the only part that can yet be seeu, which is sufficient to 
establish its ancient size and magnificence. I counted twenty-four 
columns, more than fifty feet in height, and five feet in diameter, 
covered over with figures and hieroglyphics. Excavations are now in 
progress by order of Abbas Pasha, which may bring to light some- 
thing valuable. Esneh is the place where all travellers up the Nile 
stop to see the Dancing Women or Almehs, who are banished from 
Gairo on account of offences against the police, or the prejudices of 
the Ulemas. " The learning of these learned women has long 
ceased ; their poetry has sunk into absurd songs ; their dancing would 
degrade even the motus Tonicus of antiquity ; and their title Almeh 
has been changed to the less respectable name of Ghowagee, or 
women of the Memlooks." The next place of interest is Edfou, 
where there is a temple built by the Ptolemies on a large scale. The 
walls are more than one hundred feet high, and beautifully adorned 
with figures, hieroglyphics, etc. It is built around a hollow square, 
and is nearly perfect in all its parts, giving one a very good idea of 
the extent and magnificence of such structures. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 235 

In the afternoon of the same day, we passed Hagar Silsili, or the 
chain mountain, near which are the great sandstone quarries, where 
the ancient Egyptians got most of their stone for building temples, 
etc. A number of grottoes and catacombs are cut in the solid rock, 
upon which are inscribed a variety of hieroglyphics and figures. 
This is the narrowest point of the river below the first cataract, and 
there is a tradition here that one of the ancient kings stretched a 
chain across the river to prevent the Ethiopians from passing. The 
temple of Ombos, now in a dilapidated condition, is situated on a 
high blufT, which overhangs the water between Hagar Silsili and 
Assouan, the ancient Syene. The river, as we approached the cata- 
ract, became much narrower, and quite shallow in places — so much 
so that we ran aground several times, and had the pleasure of hear- 
ing the wild cry of the sailors and the croaking of water wheels on 
the shore, which constitute the peculiar music of the Nile. Assouan 
is the stopping point for those who do not intend going beyond the 
first cataract, and at this season a large number of pleasure boats 
may be seen scattered along the shore. The town is like all Arab 
villages, and presents but few ruins of the ancient city, except some 
granite columns of a late date, and the sekos of a small temple, with 
the shattered remains of an outer chamber, and a portico in front. 
Opposite Assouan is the island of Elephantine, now inhabited by 
Nubians, and covered over with the ruins of old houses and frag- 
ments of pottery. The only remaining ruins of Elephantine are a 
granite gateway of the time of Alexander, the entrance to some edi- 
fice now entirely demolished, and portions of the old Nileometer. 

Leaving our boat, which was too large to go over the cataracts at 
Assouan, we procured donkeys and rode up a distance of about five 
miles. Here we procured a small boat, managed by Nubians, and 
proceeded to examine the great cataracts of the Nile, about which 
you have heard so much. They are called by the natives E'Shellah, 
and are, in truth, nothing but rapids, whose falls do not exceed six 
feet, and passable at all seasons of the year. I expected to be dis- 
appointed with the cataracts, but I must say that I was more than 
disappointed. Compared to the rapids of St. Lawrence, or the 
numerous waterfalls in the United States, they diminish ioto utter 
insignificance. The boats are towed with ropes ; and now that the 
passage has been enlarged and the Nubians more skilful, there is 



236 

litle fear of accidents. A number of amusing incidents occurred 
while we were loitering on the shore, which diverted our attention, 
for a time, from the scenery around. Forty or fifty naked Nubians 
were seen, all at once, to make their appearance from among the 
rocks, plunge into the river, and pass like an arrow over the cata- 
racts, in the midst of the most furious rushing of the waters. I 
feared that some would lose their lives ; but our venerable Reis, who 
sat smoking his chibouk, smiled at the idea, and remarked, in his 
own language, that they were Nubian ducks, and could not drown. 

Just above the rapids, we saw two figures, with their clothes tied 
above their heads, sitting upon the surface of the water, apparently, 
and floating about like some inflated substance ; which turned out 
to be a man and his wife, crossing from the island of Biggeh. 
Their bark was a log with a bundle of cornstalks on each side, too 
light to support their weight, yet strong enough to keep them 
from sinking. 

About two miles above the cataracts is the island of Philse, 
known in Nubia by the name of Anas el Wogood, and upon which 
stand the remains of the temple of Isis, commenced by Ptolemy 
Philadelphus and Arsinae, and completed by succeeding monarchs. 
The island is small and shaped like an egg, presenting to the eye, 
from all points, a certain beauty and uniqueness no where else to be 
seen. The scenery around is wild and romantic, corresponding admi- 
rably with the position of the island, and so charming as to make 
one almost wish to pass the remainder of his days here. Next to 
the great temple of Karnak, I regard the temple of Isis as the most 
elegant structure in Egypt, containing many rich and perfect speci- 
mens of architecture, no where else to be found. The outside of the 
walls are ornamented with numerous figures and hieroglyphics, exe- 
cuted in a chaste and beautiful manner. No two of the capitals of 
the numerous columns are alike, all being different to display the 
beauties of the various orders. Very near to Philae is the island of 
Biggeh, containing the remains of a small temple, dedicated to Athos, 
apparently commenced by Euergetes I. and completed by Ptolemy 
the elder. A red granite statue and a few broken fragments of stone, 
scattered over the surface of the ground, are all that remains to prove 
its existence and position. This island is inhabited by Nubians, who 
go entirely naked, except a piece of leather about six inches wide, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 237 

cut in strings and tied about their loins. They are far more interest- 
ing to ine in their appearance and character than the Egyptians. 
His figure is tall, thin, and graceful ; his face is rather dark, but 
far removed from African blackness ; his features are long and aqui- 
line, somewhat resembling the Roman ; the expression of his face is 
mild, amiable, and approaching to melancholy. The inhabitants of 
Nubia are extremely poor, but their wants are few, and they live 
accordingly. 

Above Philae, the barren hills become higher and run close to 
the river, leaving only a small strip of ground for agricultural pur- 
poses ; but as we ascended only a short distance above this island, 
I will not attempt a description, but will state upon the authority 
of friends, that there is much to see between the first and second 
cataracts. 

Satisfied with our voyage on the Nile, we returned to our boat, 
and are now floating sideways down the current, praying for a 
favorable wind, and hoping soon to return to Cairo. 



LETTER FORTY-ONE. 

Jerusalem, Palestine. 
Preparations at Cairo for crossing the Desert — Our Caravan — A Sheik of the Bedouins — 
Midnight alarm and loss of a Carpet Bag — Jerreed Tournament — Military Honors at El 
Arish — Five hours' separation from the Caravan in a Simoom — Five days in the Laza- 
retto at Gaza — Plain of Sharon — Ashdod — Two days in the Convent at Ramla — Journey 
to and first sight of Jerusalem. 

Having made the grand tour in Eg}^pt from the sea to the cataracts 
— or, in the language of the Bible, from " Migdol to Syene, even 
unto the borders of Ethiopia" — we were once more in the modern 
capital, making the necessary preparations for crossing the Great 
Arabian Desert. Three routes were presented for our contempla- 
tion, viz. : one by way of Petra, another by way of El Arish, and a 
third between the two. Parties were forming for each of the three 
routes, and we had our option which to join. Two of our friends, 
with whom we had journeyed for some months in Europe and on 
the Nile, desired to take the first, and we would have been pleased 



238 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

to continue with them, but two insurmountable obstacles stood in 
our way — time and uncertainty. This route requires forty days, 
which was somewhat longer than we wished to sit on the hump of 
a camel and gaze at nothing but burning sands and our own tracks ; 
and then there was great uncertainty whether we would be permit- 
ted to enter Petra on account of the dissensions between the Akaba 
and Petra tribes, who had been at war with each other, and forbid- 
den all foreigners to enter the city of Kock. Having disposed of 
this route, we were not long in making up our minds to accept the 
proposition of a friend from New- York, to enter into a contract 
with a Maltese dragoman, named Vincent Belluti, to carry us to 
Jerusalem by way of El Arish, and thence through the Holy Land 
to Damascus and Beirout. Vincent had the character of being an 
energetic man, good purveyor, and well acquainted with the way of 
managing the Bedouins. All was left to him, and I am happy to 
state that he realized my expectations in every particular. Independ- 
ent of our own party, consisting of two young ladies and three 
gentlemen, we had the pleasure of being joined on the day of depart- 
ure by an English gentleman from York, and his lady, who proved 
to be exceedingly clever, and contributed much towards making the 
journey agreeable, and the long days pass away almost impercepti- 
bly. This couple will ever have my very best wishes, and hereafter 
when I think of the desert, their faces will come vividly before my 
mind's eye, and the many pleasant days passed in their company 
will be dwelt upon as among the brightest of my Eastern tour. 

It was a gloomy day to me when we started for the Holy Land. 
Although the sun shed its genial rays on the blooming beauties of 
nature, and every thing seemed to invite us onward, yet I felt sad. 
It was the day fixed upon by the authorities for the punishment and 
exile of nine poor creatures who participated in the battle on the 
Nile. We were requested by our Vice-Consul to be present on the 
occasion, but I had not the heart to witness the severity of the 
Egyptian bastinado, with the knowledge that it was inflicted partly 
on my own account. But this was the slightest cause of our grief. 
We were about to part with tried friends, and leave a country 
replete with historical interest, and wander amid new and different 
scenes. Yes, we were to give up our quiet, easy-moving boat for a 
caravan of dromedaries and camels, to pitch our tents wherever the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 239 

setting sun might find us, and instead of our faithful Arabs of the 
Nile, to have for our companions and protectors the wild rude 
Bedouins of the desert. All preparations, however, were made, the 
caravan waiting at the door of our hotel, loaded with tents, luggage, 
and provisions. The Bedouin Sheik and his swarthy tribe, armed 
with pistols, long sabres, and match-lock guns, were sitting cross- 
legged on a mat, smoking their pipes and waiting our commands. 
The dragoman, anxious to be off, was hurrying to and fro, seeing that 
all things were in their proper place. At last the signal was given. 
The Bedouins rose from their seats, adjusted their pipes on their 
backs, and moved off slowly towards the ancient city of the Sun 
(Heliopolis). It was at the time a grand sight to see thirty camels 
all tied together, and stepping steadily one after the other in the 
tracks of their long-bearded drivers ; but the novelty soon passed 
away, and we now look at a camel with as much indifference as we 
would at an old cow grazing on a common. Some persons profess 
to admire this animal, but for my part I never wish to see another. 
They are any thing but prepossessing in appearance, slow and awk- 
ward in their movements, always complaining, and fit only for what 
nature intended them — beasts of burden. 

The ladies did not fancy the idea of mounting at the hotel door, 
and to please them we rode on donkeys as far as the old sycamore 
tree, under which the Holy Family rested while in Egypt — a little 
to the south of Heliopolis, and of the Bab el Hag, over the plain 
where Toman Bey was defeated by Sultan Selim. Here we boarded 
for the first time in our lives the great " ship of the desert," and I 
assure you it was an amusing scene. The camels were arranged in 
a circle, and the Bedouins standing near by ready to assist us in 
mounting. The ladies were the first to make the trial, and I am 
certain that without the assistance of the dragoman and Bedouins, 
they never would have got farther than the second rising motion of 
the animal, without being pitched either behind or before. The 
gentlemen disdained the idea of being held on while the animal was 
rising, and insisted that they should be allowed to try it alone, upon 
which the drivers in their usual frank manner replied, Tiebe (very 
good). The consequence was, that two of the party were tumbled 
in the sand, and fully satisfied that they were unequal to the sud- 
den and vigorous jerks of the rising camel. 



240 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

Throughout all the East it is the custom to place the saddle on 
the back of the camel, as well as the horse, so soon as they are old 
enough for use, which is never removed until they die, or become 
unfit for work. The result is, that nine tenths of these poor brutes 
are constantly suffering from raw backs, much to the annoyance of 
the European or American traveller. I frequently endeavored to 
persuade the Arabs to pay some attention to this matter, but my 
efforts were always unavailing, as it is utterly impossible to get them 
to depart in the slightest degree from the usages of their ancestors. 

To give you some idea of our comforts while riding, just picture 
to yourself a tall six-footer from Tennessee perched high out of his 
element on a blue mattress, underneath which was an enormous bag 
of beans, for the use of the animal en route, placed on a saddle simi- 
lar in shape to a wood-horse, and according to my boyish recollec- 
tion similar in point of ease. Thus elevated, imagine him with a 
broad-brimmed wool hat, covered with a green veil, holding in one 
hand a white cotton umbrella, in the other a coarse palm halter, 
moving at the rate of three miles per hour, and congeeing his body 
in the most ungraceful manner to the back of a beautiful young 
lady all the way from the Knickerbocker State. At four o'clock, 
the usual hour on the desert, we pitched our tents near the village of 
Bilbis, and in sight of the citadel and minarets of Cairo. While 
driving the pegs, an Italian quarantine officer came down from the 
village and endeavored to prevail on us to camp near his house, 
stating that the thieves were unusually bad, and that it was really 
dangerous to pass the night in the desert. The dragoman of our 
English friend, who is a sprightly Egyptian, and our own dragoman 
held a parley on the subject, and informed the gentleman that they 
knew full well how to manage the thieves, and for his own safety 
he had better keep clear of our tents during the night. Finding 
that he could make nothing out of the dragomans, the dirty rascal 
slipped round and claimed acquaintance with Antonio, one of our 
servants, and invited him to visit his house that night, and reminded 
him to put a bottle of brandy in his pocket. Now, although Antonio 
was sometimes fond of turning his little finger over his thumb, he 
politely declined this invitation, saying that he had no brandy of his 
own, and was too honest to take that belonging to his master. In a few 
minutes our tents were pitched near to each other, and the camels 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 241 

arranged in a circle round them, forming a kind of bulwark in case 
of an attack during the night. All being fixed according to the 
directions of the dragomans, the Bedouins gave their animals a few 
beans, examined their old firelocks, refreshed themselves with a few 
dried dates, and then prostrated their weary limbs on the desert 
sand, there to repose until the hour arrived for them to watch and 
guard the tents. At half-past five, the ringing of a bell announced 
that dinner was served, and all hastened to the large tent to partake 
of the first meal on the desert. Each one expressed their surprise to 
find every thing so neatly and so comfortably arranged : the iron- 
framed cots were all made up — a Turkish carpet covered the ground, 
and the table-cloth and napkins were as clean as I ever saw in any 
European hotel ; and what was still more surprising, we were furnished 
with a bill of fare that would not disgrace the first-class hotels in 
London, and certainly much superior to any thing in Cairo or Alex- 
andria. As you may be curious to know what constituted this bill, 
I will enumerate the several courses in their order, viz. : Soup, mutton, 
turkey, pigeons, rice, potatoes, pudding, fruits, sweets, and accom- 
paniments. After the cloth was removed, coffee and pipes were 
served, according to the custom of the East, and we regaled our- 
selves in a manner truly oriental. 

Whenever a party encamps near a village in Egypt, the sheik 
usually furnishes a guard who profess to be responsible for every thing, 
but are in reality not only thieves but a decided nuisance. As soon 
as their time for watching begins, they commence firing off their 
old matchlocks, in order to exaggerate the importance of their 
services, when in truth there is no real danger, the Bedouins of the 
desert being harmless as far as the taking of blood ; and as for steal- 
ing, they do it on such a small scale, that no one is injured but the 
camel owners, who are generally able to bear the loss. This firing 
off of guns during the entire night is exceedingly disagreeable and 
annoying to the fatigued traveller, who desires repose after the labor 
of camel-riding during the day. 

To give you some idea of the cunning and petty rascality of the 
Arab people, I will relate a little incident that occurred the second 
night near the village of Goshen. The sheik of this place furnished 
twelve men, who came to the encampment long before the usual 
time, and evinced a degree of vigilance in our behalf that aroused 

11 % 



242 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

my suspicion as to their honesty. Sure enough, about the hour of 
midnight, we were alarmed in our sleep by the report of guns and 
sudden cry of Bedouins ! Bedouins !! Bedouins !!! Thinking that 
the wild rovers of the desert were upon us, and that our time had 
come, we all simultaneously bounded from our cots, grasped the 
weapons beneath the pillows, and rushed out to meet our fate. All 
was confusion — the guard pretended to be much alarmed— the camel 
drivers were running to and fro expecting every minute that their 
all would be taken. The dragoman, however, was cool, and seemed 
to comprehend in an instant the whole affair. Search your tents, 
he cried, and see what they have taken. In an instant lights were 
produced and every one began to look for his property, when, lo and 
behold, a still small voice emanated from the harem (as the Arabs 
termed the ladies' tent) announcing the loss of a carpet bag. It 
seems that the guard pulled up the tent pegs, slipped out the carpet 
bag, and gave the alarm in order to impress us with the belief that 
it was the work of the poor Bedouins. After this, our own men 
kept a vigilant watch over the rascals, and the following morning 
we sent a deputation after the sheik of the village, who, like the 
patriarchs of old, exercises a paternal influence over the village and 
is expected to know every thing that transpires among his people. 
In a short time a venerable-looking man with long white beard and 
pipe-bearers in his train, made his appearance at our encampment, 
and declared by every thing that was solemn and holy that he knew 
nothing of the stolen property. Feeling confident that his men were 
the thieves, and that he knew all about it, we told him that if the 
bag was not produced immediately, we would put one of our men 
on the fleetest dromedary and send him back to Cairo to inform the 
Pasha of our loss. This threat seemed to give him great alarm, so 
much so that he ordered his men to prostrate themselves on the 
ground and receive the bastinado. We objected to this, and told 
him to carry them into the village if he desired to punish them, and 
not in the presence of the ladies — who were listening to the conver- 
sation, eager to get the many indispensables contained in the carpet 
bag. Finding that his proposition to inflict the bastinado failed to 
appease us, he proposed to hang two or three of them, or do any 
thing to prevent our making complaint to the Pasha. We told him 
that we were going to Salahieh that night, and if the carpet bag was 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AKD ASIA. 243 

sent on to us we would say nothing about it ; but if not, we would 
inform Caraca Mustapha, who has command of seven hundred 
soldiers at that place. Paying no further attention to them, we 
ordered our camels to be packed and proceeded on our journey, 
passing through a number of ruined villages and cultivated land, 
where the old-fashioned water wheels and buckets are used as on 
the Nile. 

Just before reaching Salahieh, we met Caraca Mustapha (who is 
Governor of that part of Egypt) taking a ride on horseback, accom- 
panied by two mounted soldiers and a footman bearing his pipes. 
Our dragoman saluted his Highness, and informed him of the loss 
we sustained the night before at the village of Goshen, which seemed 
to make him very angry, particularly when he was told that they 
entered the harem, which is considered more sacred than their 
mosque. He replied that it was an unheard-of outrage, and if we 
would wait one day he would either restore the lost carpet bag or 
have the old sheik and all the guards severely bastinadoed. That 
night we enjoyed a comfortable rest, free from the alarm of thieves 
and the report of firearms ; and long before we awoke the Governor 
had dispatched two officers, a flag-bearer, and eight soldiers to the 
village of Goshen. At ten o'clock the gentlemen of the party called 
to see the Governor in his tent, and were received with marked 
civility. He was seated on an elevated cushion in the Turkish 
fashion, and did not move when we entered — it being considered 
undignified to make the least physical exertion. We all took seats 
around him in the same manner on some matting placed on the 
sand, and conversed about half an hour, through our interpreter. 
We told him that we had been up the Nile, and were highly pleased 
with the country and its antiquities ; spoke of our experience in 
riding camels, and told him that we kept them in shows at home, 
and paid so many piastres to look at them, which pleased him 
exceedingly. We flattered his troops, the beauty of his country, 
and the climate. Pipes and coffee were handed around in the usual 
manner by negro slaves, and he apologized for not being able to 
entertain us better. When we started to our tents we invited him 
to call and see the ladies, which he accepted in the most gracious 
manner, and returned the visit in less than fifteen minutes. The 
dragoman ushered him into the larger tent, and returned the same 



244 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

civilities that he had extended to us. As soon as the ladies made 
their appearance with their faces uncovered, the old Pasha seemed 
utterly overpowered, and was so much pleased, that I really think he 
would have done any thing in reason to amuse the party. After asking 
him about a thousand questions, which a woman alone could think 
of, we were invited out to witness a jerreed tournament, one of the 
favorite amusements in the East, and without exception the greatest 
display of horsemanship that ever came under my observation. The 
scene was truly Oriental. A grove of palms bounded the prospect on 
one side, the arid desert on the other, and the two encampments 
filled with camels, Arabian horses, and their gaily dressed riders, 
served to complete the picture. About fifty men participated in the 
tournament, and were equally divided and arrayed against each other. 
They were armed with the jerreed, made of palm branches, instead 
of the usual spear, which they throw with great precision at each 
other forty or fifty yards off. They are excellent horsemen, and to 
avoid the blows of the contending party they would frequently throw 
their bodies completely on the side of the horse while at full speed. 
They charge with great spirit, and the horses seem to enter into the 
combat with as much animation as the men themselves. They are 
cruel riders ; I noticed the blood flowing in streams from the side 
and mouth of nearly every horse from the effects of their stirrups, 
which are made of iron in the shape of an old-fashioned shovel, and 
severe curb bits. During the exhibition, the Governor and his suite, 
consisting of several officers and pipe-bearers, were seated with us 
on Turkish rugs, and seemed highly gratified to see us enter so fully 
into their sports. The Governor's departure was as sudden as his 
visit. Rising without saying a word or even bowing to the ladies, 
he walked with great dignity to his tent, evidently satisfied that he 
had made a hit. Not wishing to disappoint him, we sent as a pres- 
ent three plated salvers and a silk scarf, which he accepted as a 
matter of course, and sent us in return a letter of introduction to 
the Pasha of El Arish. 

The following morning we started off without the carpet bag, but 
we have been informed since that it was recovered, and the twelve 
men soundly bastinadoed. I had almost forgot to mention that we 
were joined at Saluhieh by a large party of Pilgrims or Hadji from 
Mecca, who desired our protection from the Bedouins of the desert. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 245 

The} had been absent from home nearly one year, and had nothing 
with them but two small donkeys to carry their water, and a little 
brown bread, which they mixed with herbs and boiled together in 
small kettles, shaped somewhat like the rind of a long melon. Every 
morning and evening they would scratch holes in the ground until 
they came to moistened sand, with which they rubbed their faces, 
hands, and feet, instead of the ordinary ablution practised where 
water is abundant. After this operation, they prostrated themselves 
and went through the ceremony of prayer. It is a solemn and 
affecting scene to see men out in the still and barren desert offering 
up to God and the Prophet the earnest devotion of their hearts. At 
noon of the seventh day we reached Teeneh, which occupies the 
site of Pelusium, once a place of great consequence. It was strongly 
fortified, being the bulwark of the Egyptian frontier on the eastern 
side, and considered the " key of Egypt." It was called in Scripture, 
"Sin." (Ezek. xxx. 15, 16.) Near this the unfortunate Pompey met 
his death, basely murdered by Ptolemy and his minister Photinus, 
whose protection he had claimed, B. C. 48. A long strip of date 
trees, a few wild Bedouins living in rude habitations formed of date 
branches, and an old fountain constructed either by the Romans or 
Napoleon, as a stopping point, is all that remains of this once im- 
portant place. 

While at the fountain " the daughters of the men of the city came 
out to draw water." They carried pitchers upon their shoulders, 
and like Rebekah of old, drew water both for us and our camels. 
Now Rebekah was a damsel very fair to look upon, a virgin without 
spot or blemish, well worthy of Isaac's love ; but the damsels that 
greeted us were very different in their appearance, and treated us in 
a manner wholly unbecoming the gentle sex. After giving us drink, 
instead of offering us meat, and straw and provender for the camels, 
they called the men belonging to the village and endeavored to take 
away one of our camels, saying that our sheik owed them money 
and they intended taking their property. A great deal of loud talk- 
ing and fierce looks were exchanged on both sides, and the matter 
was finally adjusted by the dragoman, who informed the men that 
the Howadji would not allow them to take the camel under any 
pretext. Soon after leaving the fountain we were overtaken by three 
friends from New- York, who left Cairo two days after us. They 



246 

brought me letters from home, which came like manna to the child- 
ren of Israel, at a time when I most needed them. It was the only 
package that I had received for many months, and you can easily 
conceive what pleasure they afforded me. Seated high on the hump 
of my camel, I unfolded the precious papers and read them over 
and over again, weighing each line and word particularly, in order 
to learn as much as possible from those that are nearest and dearest 
to me on earth. 

The following day the same gentlemen and myself met with an 
adventure of somewhat rare occurrence. We started at eight o'clock 
in the morning with the caravan, but became impatient, and con- 
cluded we would try the speed of our dromedaries for a short distance, 
and then wait for them to overtake us. We moved on charmingly 
and at a rapid pace for about two hours, when all of a sudden the 
bright orb of day became obscured, the whole heavens darkened, 
and the wind commenced blowing most furiously. It was evidently 
a simoom, and our only hope of escape was in Him who rules the 
storm and directs the whirlwind. The sand drifted in such quantities 
that our track soon became obliterated, and our eyes perfectly blinded. 
Thirst also came upon us, and our only refuge from famishing was 
a small canteen filled with a mixture of brandy and water. Making 
our dromedaries kneel down close together, we ensconced ourselves 
behind them, and waited for the storm to subside. Five long hours, 
which appeared like so many days, passed away, and still we were 
alone in the broad desert waste, without guide, compass, or direction. 
At last the wind became more calm, the atmosphere clearer, and 
our hopes brighter. Mounting the camels once more, we pursued 
our course in the direction that we thought right; and while grop- 
ing in darkness, we fortunately discovered in the dim distance the 
form of a man. That form I shall never forget. It was one of the 
Hadjis on the look-out for us, and without his exertions we would 
have had to pass the night alone in the broad desert. He informed 
us that the caravan was ahead, and with his guidance we overtook 
our friends just as they were pitching their tents. As soon as they 
discovered us, joy unspeakable burst from their lips ; the ladies were 
particularly delighted, so much so, that they gave utterance to their 
emotions by a flood of joyful tears. They had given us up as lost, or 
murdered by the Bedouins, and you can easily imagine their feelings. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 247 

The day after this adventure we passed by a large lake nearly 
filled with sand. The water was salt, and the saline incrustation so 
thick that I lifted it from the surface in large flakes. The road that 
lies on its borders is replete with historic interest from the aggres- 
sive time of Nebuchadnezzar to that of Napoleon and Shacham 
Pasha. It was the debatable ground between Egypt and Syria, 
whether its possessors were Babylonians or Persians, Greeks or Ro- 
mans, Saracens or Crusaders, and is called to this day El Sikka Sul- 
tan, Highway of Kings. Just before reaching El Arish, we were 
met by several mounted soldiers, and nearly all of the inhabitants, 
who went out to see their husbands and fathers. The women, robed 
in fine white, raised the shrill whistle, indicating joy ; the men ran 
up to our drivers, grasped their hands, and touched their foreheads 
repeatedly, producing a scene at once novel and amusing. El Arish 
occupies the site of the ancient Rhinocalura of the Greeks, and the 
Botany Bay of the old Egyptians. It was to that place that con- 
demned criminals were transported by the Pharaohs, having first 
their noses cut off, whence the name of the Land of Broken Noses. 
Here Baldwin the Second of Jerusalem died in the midst of his 
warriors, when on his way to conquer Egypt. The old Greek castle 
still contains a sarcophagus of a child belonging to one of the Ptole- 
mies. Napoleon thought it, next to Alexandria, the most important 
military point in Egypt, and built a large stone fort there in 1789, 
which is now occupied by the Governor and a few soldiers. The place 
is now the quarantine for those going from Syria into Egypt, is sur- 
rounded by sand hills, and in sight of the sea. Upon the strength 
of the letter introducing us to Mustapha Bey, we had twenty-five 
mounted soldiers to escort us several miles, and one came with us 
as far as Gaza, an honor rarely conferred, and which we properly 
appreciated. 

After leaving El Arish, we passed along the sea-shore to Refah, 
or Rhaphin, now marked by two solitary granite pillars, situated on 
an eminence. It is remarkable as the battlefield between Antiochus 
the Great and Ptolemy the younger of Egypt, when they contended 
for the empire of the East. On the plain before it the gigantic ele- 
phants were trained to war, and here Antiochus was defeated. 
Here, also, the bride of Solomon, even Pharaoh's daughter, was 
delivered into the hands of the elders of Israel, who were sent to 



248 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OE, 

receive her. It was undoubtedly one of the holy stations. While 
taking our luncheon under a tree near the columns, two old sheiks, 
accompanied by their men, came down out of the hills and demanded 
tribute money. Vincent paid them three piastres for each Frank in 
the party, the usual sum required from all Europeans. Our own 
sheik denied their right to receive the sum, and a quarrel ensued, 
which ended, as usual, in words. 

That night we pitched at a place called Sheik Jude, a burying 
ground, where several tombs are standing. In the large tomb, the 
grave is covered with a green canopy, and contains a collection of 
old rags, pieces of wood, and other mementoes, hung about on 
strings by pilgrims who pass that way. While there, we witnessed 
a burial. The grave was dug about three feet deep, with a kind of 
mattock, and the dirt shovelled out with their hands, having no 
instrument to use for the purpose. The corpse was wrapped in a 
coarse blanket worn by the Arabs, and placed in the grave without 
any coffin. The following day we reached Kan Yoones, the Yenisus 
of Herodotus, which is situated on the borders of the desert and 
confines of Egypt. Here our Hve days' quarantine commenced, about 
which we could say much, and will always remember. The houses 
in Kan Yoones are constructed entirely of stone, daubed over with 
mud, are one story in height, and have flat roofs. Sultan Burkoot 
built a magnificent khan there, in which is a curious mosque. The 
fields about the town are inclosed with hedges of the prickly pear, 
and contain some orange, fig, and other fruit trees, that were very 
pleasing to look upon after journeying so many days in the desert. 

Leaving Kan Yoones, we passed over a beautiful grass-covered 
plain, accompanied by the Garde de Santa to the quarantine estab- 
lishment at Gaza. It is not my intention to inflict on you a descrip- 
tion of quarantine regulations, or go into a dissertation upon the 
advantages or disadvantages attending such places, but simply to 
narrate a slight account of our stay at Gaza. The Lazaretto in 
which we were incarcerated is beautifully situated in the suburbs of 
Gaza, and consists of a large square inclosure made of stone, about 
fifteen feet in height, and stuccoed. A deep well of good water is 
in the centre, and the rooms for the accommodation of travellers 
might be rendered comfortable if they could in any way manage to 
rid them of the great quantities of vermin that infest that region, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, ANT> ASIA. 249 

and almost devour a poor Frank alive, in spite of all his exertions 
to the contrary. They come out of the walls, the carpet, and every 
conceivable place in perfect regiments, too formidable to be resisted, 
which, added to the hootings of a thousand jackals in the neighbor- 
hood, you can readily conceive how we passed our nights. "And 
Samson went and caught three hundred foxes, (jackals,) and took 
firebrands, and turned tail to tail, and put a firebrand in the midst 
between two tails ; and when he had set the brands on fire, he let 
them go into the standing corn of the Philistines, and burnt up both 
the shocks and the standing corn, with the vineyards and olives." 
(Judges xv. 4, 5.) The days were consumed in enjoying the beau- 
tiful scenery about Gaza, reading what few books we had in our 
trunks, conversing and smoking pipes, which we found decidedly 
more agreeable than fighting fleas and listening to the concerts of 
jackals over some dead carcass. 

The evening before leaving the quarantine, a French medical offi- 
cer, in the Turkish service, called to examine our tongues, and see 
that our baggage was properly fumigated. It was truly an amusing 
scene. The Guardianos drew us up in a line, and each one was 
required not only to exhibit their tongues, but to slap themselves 
violently under the armpits and other parts of the body, to convince 
the doctor (who stood about six feet off) that we had no symptoms 
of plague, or other diseases peculiar to the East. The ladies declared 
that it was an outrage, and that they would not submit to such an 
indignity ; but the doctor was imperative, and informed them that 
they must either show their tongues or remain within the bounds. 
Gaza, as I before remarked, is beautifully situated, and surrounded 
by well cultivated gardens of tamarisks, figs, and olives ; the moun- 
tains of Ghor, Moab, and Judah are fragrant with the perfume of 
the ranunculus, anemone, asphodel, and minorette. The population 
is about three thousand at present ; the houses are built of stone 
daubed with mud, and covered on the top with growing grass. 

The prison where Samson was confined was shown to us. It is 
constructed of hewn limestone, square in form, and now occupied 
by the Arabs for a dwelling place. Two black granite columns are 
lying in front of the prison, evidently of great antiquity, and two 
blind beggars were seated on the steps when we were there, remind- 
ing me strongly of Samson's blindness, and the sport made of him 

11* 



250 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OE, 

in his afflictions. About two hours' ride from the present town of 
Gaza is the hill upon which Samson is said to have carried the gates 
of the city. " And Samson lay till midnight, and arose at midnight, 
and took the doors of the gate of the city, and the two posts, and 
went away with them, bar and all, and put them upon his shoulders, 
and carried them up to the top of a hill that is before Hebron." 
(Judges xvi. 3.) The road for several miles after leaving Gaza passes 
through cultivated fields and olive orchards, which are really refresh- 
ing to the eye that had been accustomed to look for so many days 
on the burning sand of the desert. 

Our next camping place was near a village that our drivers 
called Jabin, situated on an eminence in sight of the sea. A pond 
of water stands near the town, and a ruined mosque on its margin 
of great magnitude. Judging from the arches, niches, and a few 
black granite columns lying about, it must be of Eoman construc- 
tion. Asdood or Ashdod, mentioned in Scripture, was the next 
point of interest on our route. " And the Philistines took the ark 
of God, and brought it from Ebenezer unto Ashdod." (1 Sam. ii. 1.) 
It is now a miserable place, filled with dirty hovels and low people. 
An old ruin occupies the summit of the hill, from which we had a 
fine view of the beautiful plain of Sharon. " I am the rose of 
Sharon, and the lily of the valley." The Song of Solomon may be 
appropriately sung even now, for the eye of the traveller is delighted 
with a profusion of roses, tulips, the narcissus, the white orange lily, 
the carnation, and a highly flavored species of everlasting flower. 
This plain stretches along the coast from Gaza in the south to Mount 
Carmel in the north, being bounded towards the east by the hills of 
Judea and Samaria. The lands are broken up ready to receive the 
seed from the hand of the husbandman, and give full promise for a 
crop as abundant as those gathered by the old patriarchs. 

On the evening of the nineteenth day we entered the hospitium 
of Eamla, the ancient Arimathea, and were received by the inmates 
with that cordiality for which they have always been distinguished. 
It is surrounded by a high square inclosure, has a garden inside, 
and every thing calculated to make the weary pilgrim comfortable. 
The neat little chapel in which we attended vespers occupies the site 
of Joseph's dwelling, who took down the body of Jesus from the 
cross and laid it in his own new tomb. Ramla is built also of stone 



AND ASIA. 251 

houses, with round dome-shaped tops, and contains a population of 
five thousand. The only remarkable antiquity now remaining is a 
stone tower of great height and symmetry, built by the Crusaders 
in honor of the forty martyrs killed there. The view from the tower 
extends even to Jaffa, and it is supposed that St. George, the patron 
Saint of England, died there. Owing to the inclemency of the 
weather, we remained two days in the hospitium, and received a 
visit while there from one of the dignitaries of the town, who was 
formerly the Vice Consul for the United States, but was for some 
reason deprived of the flag by our Consul General at Beirout. In 
due time we returned his call, and were received in great state, for 
the simple reason that he desired us to intercede for him with the 
Consul General, and procure his reappointment. During our visit 
the subject of slavery was suggested by the appearance of a likely 
negro boy bearing coffee and pipes, which resulted in my gaining 
some information that I would have otherwise lost. When two 
slaves intermarry belonging to different masters, the owner of the 
man claims the male issue, and the owner of the woman the female 
issue ; whereas with us the owner of the woman is entitled to both. 
Quite a strong attachment exists between the master and slave, and 
it is not unfrequently the case that they marry and live happily 
together. 

At Ramla we took leave most cheerfully of our camels and camel 
drivers, to mount the fleet and spirited Arabian steed. I was fortu- 
nate in procuring an excellent animal, which I intend riding through • 
out all Syria. A ride of two hours through a cultivated plain brought 
us to the verge of the " hill country of Judea," where the road opens 
through a rugged ravine, and is formed in the dry channel of a nar- 
row torrent. A scene of wild solitude and desolation surrounded out- 
steps as we pursued our journey through the dark shadows of the 
mountain, reminding me forcibly of some of the beautiful scenery in 
Switzerland and our own country. Soon after entering the laby- 
rinth of mountains we reached Latroun, or the " Thief Village," 
being the site of the place where the thief lived who was crucified 
on the cross with our Saviour. It is now nothing but a heap of 
ruined stone houses, occupied by reptiles and jackals. From the 
summit of the chain I looked back toward the southwest on the 
beautiful valley of Sharon, bounded by the Mediterranean, and 



252 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

before me opened the vale of Jeremiah and the ancient fortress 
called the Castle of Maccabees. Proceeding on our way through 
conical-shaped mountains, connected with each other at their base, 
and covered with dwarf oaks, box rose, laurels, and a few olive trees, 
we came to the Wady Beit Hanina, a long and slippery descent, 
over slabs of rock and deep gullies, worn by the winter rains. At 
the foot of this dangerous place we met the celebrated robber Abou 
Goosh, who used to lay all travellers under heavy contributions 
until subdued by the arms of Ibrahim Pasha. This man once formed 
the daring scheme of seizing on Jerusalem, and of establishing him- 
self there, and had well nigh succeeded in the attempt. His vari- 
ous acts at length aroused the attention of the Porte, and a mandate 
was issued to Abdallah Pasha of Acre to imprison him. Since his 
release he has been perfectly harmless, and is now an officer of the 
government. He is one of the handsomest men that I have seen in 
the East, and apparently about fifty years of age. Passing through 
Turpentine Valley, we next came to the brook out of which the 
youthful David picked up the five smooth stones, with one of which 
he slew the gigantic Goliah. I drank water and gathered some 
pebbles from the brook as a memento of the spot. The brook now 
stands in pools, and is evidently a wet-weather stream. Crossing 
it, we saw the village of Heriet Lefta, and in the distance on the 
summit of a lofty hill El Bire. We then ascended gradually for 
about one hour, crossed another rugged flat covered with large loose 
stones, and descended once more to the Holy City. It has been 
remarked frequently by travellers in their descriptions that the 
approaches to the capital are extremely beautiful, but I must beg 
leave to differ with them. The circuit of hills that were once ver- 
dant with the olive, the fig tree, and the vine, are now blasted and 
deformed. The rocks that were sublime are now devoid of all 
beauty — the fields and gardens have no richness, and the valleys no 
fertility. " How doth the city sit solitary that was full of people, 
how has she become as a widow, she that was great among the 
nations, and princess among the provinces; how has she become 
tributary !" 



LETTERS FKOM ETJEOPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 253 



LETTER FORTY-TWO. 

Jerusalem, PalEstine. 
First Impression of the Holy City— The Walks— Jaffa Gate— Tower of Hippicus— Our Hotel 
—Walk to Herod's Palace— The Church of Flagellation— The Via Dolorosa— Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre — Easter — The Sacred Fire — Folly of the Priests — Emotion upon enter- 
ing the Holy Tomb. 

" How hath the Lord covered the daughter of Zion with a cloud in his 
anger, and cast down from heaven unto the earth the beauty of Israel, and 
remembered not his footstool in the day of his anger." 

No city assuredly presents a more signal proof of the vicissitude of 
all earthly affairs than the ancient capital of the Jews. When we 
behold its crumbling walls, its ditches filled up, and all its buildings 
encumbered with ruins, we can scarcely realize that our eyes rest 
upon that renowned city which once withstood the efforts of the 
most powerful empires, and for a time baffled even the armies of 
Rome, whose subjects now vie with other religious sects in paying 
homage and reverence to the mouldering edifices of the fallen city. 
When we consider its situation and the time of its greatest power, it 
is difficult to believe what history teaches us relative to its greatness 
and influence. It possessed none of those natural or artificial advan- 
tages that we now consider necessary to insure the growth and 
prosperity of a city. Situated on the rugged cliffs of Zion, Moriah, 
and Calvary, encircled by the lofty and barren mountains in its 
vicinity, remote from every great road, it seems not to have been 
calculated either for a considerable mart of commerce, or for the 
centre of a great consumption. But all of these obstacles were over- 
come, and Jerusalem flourished — proving what patriotism and reli- 
gion can accomplish in the hands of a good government, or when 
favored by that Providence which rules and determines the destiny 
of all things. 

The vicissitudes of this Holy City also present to the mind of the 
historian and politician a problem of the most interesting nature. 
At one time we see its citizens in bondage, the victims of a relent- 
less tyranny, and menaced with complete extirpation. At a later 
epoch we behold them swept away as captives by the hands of 
idolaters ; and at length they appear as the instruments of a dispen- 



254 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

sation which embraces the dearest interests of all the human race, 
and which, in happier circumstances than ever fell to their own lot, 
has already modified and greatly exalted the character, the institu- 
tions, and the prospects of the most improved portion of mankind in 
both hemispheres of the globe. Connected with Christianity, indeed, 
the history of the Hebrews rises before the reflecting mind in a man- 
ner far exceeding that of all other people. In opposition to their 
own wishes, they laid the foundations of a religion which has not 
only superseded their peculiar rites, but is rapidly advancing towards 
that universal acceptation which they were wont to anticipate 
in favor of their own ancient law. Abstracting his thoughts 
from considerations of this nature, a candid man must acknowledge 
that the course of events which constitutes the history of ancient 
Palestine, has no parallel in any part of the world. Eighteen 
hundred years ago, there dwelt in this country a singular and retired 
people, who differed from the rest of mankind in the very important 
circumstance of not being idolaters. At the same era all the other 
nations of the earth were the victims of superstitions of the most 
hateful and degrading tendency, darkening all the prospects of the 
human being, and corrupting his moral nature in its very source. 
Scorned and despised by those powerful empires, their teachings not- 
withstanding continued to gain ground on every hand, till at last 
the proud monuments of pagan superstition, consecrated by the wor- 
ship of a thousand years, and supported by the authority of the most 
powerful monarchies of the world, fall one after another at the 
approach of our Saviour's disciples, and before the pervading efficacy 
of the new faith. The effects produced upon the " hill country of 
Judea" cannot be solved by reference to the ordinary principles 
whence mankind are induced to act or to suffer. They exceed all 
calculation, and it is in vain that we attempt to compare them to 
those more common revolutions which have changed temporarily 
the face of nations, or given a new destiny to ancient empires. 

From my earliest recollections, when I learned the catechism 
from my mothers lips, the name of Jerusalem embodied more in my 
mind than all other names besides, and to the latest day of my life 
I shall retain a vivid recollection of my emotions when first I gazed 
upon those dark and mysterious walls that surround the sacred city. 
I paused and asked myself, Is this Jerusalem ? Is this the cherished 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 255 

object of my pilgrimage ? Is this the spot where our Saviour was 
crucified, buried, and resurrected? And at once all that I could 
remember of her history, from the patriarch Abraham to Godfrey of 
Bouillon, came quickly to my mind's eye. 

The first object that met my vision in the suburbs were the 
remains of two enormous stone mills, erected by Ibrahim Pasha, and 
afterwards destroyed by the Turks. Then came the Turkish cem- 
etery, and the Jaffa Gate, through which we entered. Passing 
under the shadow of the tall tower of Hippicus, we slided hurriedly 
down a steep and covered bazaar after the dragoman, knocking first 
against some slow-motioned Turk, smoking his long-stemmed pipe, 
and then against the awkward and listless female robed in pure 
white, and her face covered to avoid the gaze of the rougher sex. 
At last we reached in safety our hotel, which is very small, but com- 
fortable, being situated in the vicinity of the site of King Solomon's 
Temple, and kept by a converted Jew named Simeon. Eager to 
see the sights of the ancient city, we procured the services of a guide, 
and proceeded first to Herod's second palace. It is constructed of 
marble — quite handsome and spacious, and the most perfect ruin in 
the city. Near by are the remains of the Castle of Antonio, and the 
Church of Flagellation, where our Saviour was scourged. This 
church is of recent construction, and is situated on the Via Dolo- 
rosa, opposite the site of Pilate's House. The walls of the chapel 
are adorned with paintings representing the sufferings of Christ, and 
figures in wax are also there to show how he was persecuted by his 
enemies.. The Via Dolorosa is a long and narrow way, about ten 
feet in width, and certainly the filthiest place that I ever walked 
through. The different stations were pointed out by the guide rep- 
resenting our Lord's Passion. One was a hole in the side of the 
wall, said to have been produced when the Virgin stopped and wept; 
another, a broken column, upon which Christ fell with the cross ; 
and another, the impression of his hand in the solid stone against 
which he rested himself. These stations are regarded as sacred, and 
to this day all Christians that pass along the Via Dolorosa stop and 
leave a kiss, soon to be wiped out by the Jews, who never fail to 
spit and scorn upon the holy places. 

At the extremity of this renowned way stands the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, erected by the Empress Helena on Mount Calvary, 



256 

where Constantine erected the original building. It is so com- 
pletely surrounded with houses that it is impossible to obtain a good 
view of it. Its area is about three hundred feet in length, by a very 
irregular breadth, at such different levels that the " Chapel of the 
Cross " is fifty feet below the rock of Calvary. In front is a large 
court, its pavement worn with the feet of innumerable pilgrims, and 
vestiges of columns in the Byzantine style. At the entrance I 
noticed several Turkish doorkeepers seated cross-legged smoking 
their pipes. Within the vestibule, the first object of interest is a 
large slab of yellowish-looking marble, said to be the stone upon 
which the body of Jesus was anointed before its interment. Six 
huge candlesticks and candles to match are placed at each end, and 
constitute its only ornament. This is the first object of veneration 
to the pious pilgrims, who prostrate themselves and kiss it before 
visiting the interior. Passing on and turning to the right, we came 
to the chapel built over the sacred tomb, about forty paces from the 
foot of Calvary, and under the central dome of the church. This 
chapel is of an oblong shape, rounded at one end with small arcades, 
or closets for prayer. These are for the Copts, the Abyssinians, the 
Maronites, and other Christians who are not, like the Roman Cath- 
olics, Greeks, and Armenians, provided with chapels in the body of 
the church. At the other end it is squared off and furnished with a 
platform in front which is ascended by a flight of steps, having a 
small parapet on each hand, and floored with marble. This side is 
filled with gold and silver lamps, and a painting representing the 
ascension. It is divided into two apartments, the first containing 
the block of polished stone, about one foot and a half square, on 
which sat the angel who announced the blessed tidings of the resur- 
rection to Mary Magdalene and Joanna, and Mary the mother of 
James. Here the worshipper divests himself of his shoes and head- 
covering before entering the mansion of victory, where Christ tri- 
umphed over the grave and disarmed death of its terrors. The 
tomb exhibited is a sarcophagus of white marble, slightly tinged 
with blue, being fully six feet long, three feet broad, and two feet 
two inches deep. It is broken across the top and one of the corners, 
and judging from appearances it must at one time have been 
exposed to the atmosphere, by which it has been considerably affect- 
ed. It is made in the Greek fashion, without any ornament, and 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 257 

not like the more ancient tombs of the Jews, which are cut in the 
rock for the reception of the dead. A number of costly lamps are 
kept burning over it night and day — the gifts of different sovereigns 
in successive ages. It occupies about one half of the sepulchral 
chamber, and extends from one end of it to the other. A space 
about three feet wide in front of it is all that remains for the accom- 
modation of visitors, so that not more than four can be admitted 
conveniently at a time. I paused a moment and contemplated upon 
the movements of those whose religious sentiments I thought better 
entitled them to precedence. It was a scene of deep solemnity, and 
will remain impressed on my mind until the latest day of my life. 
Although I could not agree with them in the belief that this was 
the tomb in which the body of Christ reposed for three days, yet it 
was a suitable emblem of his suffering and the scene of his resurrec- 
tion. The religious devotees retired, and I went in alone, there to 
commune with my own heart, and dwell upon the many hallowed 
associations connected wath the spot. My emotions are inde- 
scribable. I felt oppressed with intense feeling ; the sanctity of the 
place took possession of my soul, and the presence of the great 
Jehovah seemed to rise before my vision like some bright spirit 
from the dreamy world. " Here the mind looks on Him who, though 
he knew no sin, entered the regions of mortality to redeem us from 
its pow T er, and the prayers of a grateful heart ascend with a risen 
Saviour to the presence of God in heaven." Leaving the chapel 
of the tomb, I entered that belonging to the Greek Church, filled 
with tawdriness and bad paintings redolent of vulgar superstitions. 
A low pillar in it marks the centre of the earth, and the original 
clay of which our forefather Adam was moulded. From this 
chapel I entered a dark and narrow staircase to the summit of " Cal- 
vary, which is the centre, the grand magnet of the Christrian church. 
From this proceeds life and salvation ; thither all hearts tend and 
all eyes are directed ; here kings and queens cast down their crowns, 
and great men and women part with their ornaments ; at the foot 
of the cross all are on a level, equally ready and equally welcome." 
On Calvary is shown the spot where the Redeemer was nailed to the 
cross, the hole into which the end of it was fixed, and the rent in 
the rock. While standing there gazing on a painting in a niche 
behind the altar, representing our Saviour on the cross, with the two 



258 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

Marys on each side of him. I could almost imagine the dreadful 
scene of the crucifixion, when " the vail of the temple was rent in 
twain from the top to the bottom," and when Christ uttered that 
beautiful sentiment of forgiving meekness, " Father, forgive them ; 
they know not what they do." 

No man can visit Calvary without experiencing emotions that he 
never felt before, and never can feel again. It is a solemn, holy, 
and soul-absorbing spot — fit to be visited alone by those who can 
appreciate the sufferings, the goodness and loving-kindness of Him 
who gave up his life to save a sinful world. Descending from the 
mount, I entered by a long flight of steps the chapel of St. Helena, 
the mother of Constantine, in which is the vault where the true 
cross was found, an event that continues to be celebrated by an 
appropriate mass every year on the third of May. The place is 
large enough to contain fifty or sixty individuals ; it is very dark 
and cave-like, but lamps are always burning that afford sufficient 
light for the pilgrim to see and kiss the painted image of the cross. 
The sword, spears, and tomb of Godfrey of Bouillon are exhibited in 
the church, and also the tomb of Joseph and his family of Arima- 
thea, who asked the body of Christ from Pilate, and buried it in his 
own new tomb. It will soon be Easter, and the city is filling up 
rapidly with pilgrims from all parts of the Levant and Russia to wit- 
ness the exhibition of the Holy Fire, and bathe their bodies in the 
Jordan. This exhibition, which is annually practised in the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, is the work of the priesthood of the Greek 
Church, who teach the credulous multitude to believe that fire de- 
scends from heaven into the tomb to kindle their lamps and torches. 
The scenes exhibited on the occasion are far more ludicrous and 
disgraceful than any thing in the heathen world, and calculated to 
destroy all those devotional feelings that we would like to enjoy 
while standing near places hallowed by so many glorious associations. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 259 



LETTER FORTY-THREE. 

Jerusalem, Palestine. 
Mosques of Omar and El Aksa — Remains of King Solomon's Temple — Birth-place of the 
Virgin — Pool of Bethesda — St. Stephen's Gate — Convents of Jerusalem — English Chapel 
— American Residents. 

The Mosque of Omar has not inaptly been styled the St. Peter's of 
Turkey. By all true Catholics the Cathedral at Rome is regarded 
as the great centre from and through which the Divine light is dis- 
seminated over the world ; and so it is with the Mussulman race, 
whose religion acknowledges but two temples, one at Mecca, and 
the other at Jerusalem. Both were called El Haram, signifying a 
place consecrated by the peculiar presence of the Divinity, and are 
equally prohibited to Christians, Jews, and every other person who 
is not a believer in the Prophet. All other mosques are considered 
merely as places of meeting for certain acts of worship, and are not 
held so sacred as to require the total exclusion of those who do not 
profess the true faith ; entrance into them is usually granted by 
application to the proper authorities ; but the Sultan himself could 
not grant permission to an unbeliever either to pass into the terri- 
tory of Mecca, or to enter the holy precincts of this mosque. Pro- 
curing the services of the English Consul's janissary, we ascended 
to the top of the Governor's house, situated in the vicinity of the 
mosque, where we had an excellent view of the inclosure and the 
exterior of the edifice. It occupies the centre of a large flat square 
in the eastern extremity of the city, and is circular in shape, and 
surmounted by a large dome which forms decidedly the most con- 
spicuous object in Jerusalem. The Sakhara itself is a regular octa- 
gon of about sixty feet a side, and is entered by four spacious doors, 
each of which is adorned with a porch projecting from the line of 
the building and rising considerably on the wall. All the sides of 
it are panelled. The centre stone of one panel is square, of another 
it is octagonal, and thus they alternate all around ; the sides of each 
running down the angles like a plain pilaster, and giving an ap- 
pearance as if the whole were set in a frame. The marble is white, 
with a considerable tinge of blue — square pieces of the latter color 
being introduced in different places, so as to confer upon the exte- 



260 A TENNESSEAN" ABROAD ; OR, 

rior a very pleasing effect. The upper story is faced with small tiles 
painted of different colors, white, yellow, green, and blue ; some of 
them are also covered with sentences from the Koran. At this 
height there are seven elegant windows on each side, except where 
the porches interfere, and then there are only six ; the general 
appearance of the edifice being extremely light and beautiful, more 
especially from the mixture of the soft colors above and the delicate 
tints of the marble in the main body of the structure. The interior 
is said by those who have seen it to correspond in every way to the 
beauty and magnificence just described. The most conspicuous 
object of veneration in the mosque is a large irregular mass of cal- 
careous rock, having an oblong shape, and containing, as the Mos- 
lems suppose, the impress of the angel Gabriel's fingers and the 
Prophet's foot — and like the Palladium of ancient Troy, is said to 
have fallen from heaven on the very spot where it now rests, at the 
time when the prophecy commenced in Jerusalem. 

Within the same inclosure there is another mosque called El 
Aksa, which is a fine building, but far inferior to Omar. Between 
the two there is a beautiful fountain, which derives its name from a 
few orange trees overshadowing its water, and this space is supposed 
to be the site of King Solomon's Temple, about which so much has 
been said and written. While gazing from the house-top on this 
beautiful inclosure where the followers of the Prophet delight to 
saunter, or repose as in the Elysium of their devotions, my mind 
was occupied with thoughts too vast, too sacred, too absorbing to 
be reflected by the mere expression of language. Here it was that 
King Solomon, the " wise and the great, erected an house for the 
name of the Lord, and an house for his kingdom," on the summit 
of mount Mori ah, where the Lord appeared unto David his father, 
in the place that David had prepared in the threshing-floor of Oman 
the Jebusite. On the east side of the mosque our guide pointed 
out to us the remains of the outer wall of the ancient temple, which 
is made of hewn stone of great size, and of such antiquity that we 
broke large pieces off merely by striking them lightly. And here 
also is to be seen the abutment of a bridge recently discovered, 
which is supposed to have connected the temple with Zion Hill. 
This bridge is mentioned by the ancient historians, but until lately 
all travellers seem to have lost sight of it, owing probably to the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 2fil 

fact that it was obscured by the debris of the city. Jewish tradition 
renders it almost certain in my mind that these remains constituted 
a part of the wonderful building ; for on every Friday evening (the 
Jewish Sabbath) they assemble in a small paved court formed partly 
by the wall, and offer to God their prayers and lamentations in 
tones so piteous, so earnest, so beseeching, and so heart-rending, as 
to make even the followers of the Prophet pause and shed a tear of 
commiseration. On the opposite side of the mosque from the Jew- 
ish wailing ground is a small and unpretending house occupied by 
a Christian family, which is said to have been built on the very spot 
where Mary the mother of Christ was born. And near by is the 
Pool of Bethesda, which resembles an old reservoir, being nothing 
more than a large and deep basin walled up with stone, and per- 
fectly dry, serving as a kind of receptacle for the filth of the city. 
St. Stephen's Gate is also in this part of the city, and opens on the 
valley of Jehoshaphat. In point of architectural beauty I consider 
it superior to the Jaffa Gate, or any other save the Golden Gate, 
which is now built up, to be opened at a time that no man can 
divine. 

The convents of Jerusalem are very numerous, and some of them 
very beautiful, particularly those belonging to the Armenian and 
Greek churches. Nearly all of them are resorted to by the pilgrims, 
who are treated with the utmost kindness by the superiors and in- 
mates. The chapel connected with the Armenian convent is the 
finest in Jerusalem, and contains many curious things of interest — 
such as the place where the head of John the Baptist was buried, 
and paintings of a strange and unnatural character. The English 
and Prussians have recently erected a beautiful chapel in the Gothic 
fashion near the Tower of David, ano>have a bishop stationed here 
who preaches twice eveiy Sunday, in the English and Arabic lan- 
guages. But like the American missionaries, they are doing but 
little towards reforming the Jews or Mohammedans. They are 
joined to their idols, and we had better let them alone. Since our 
arrival in Jerusalem we have formed the acquaintance of Dr. Bark- 
ley, an intelligent Baptist missionary from Virginia, who has given 
up the Old Dominion and brought an interesting family here, to 
bury them, as he says, by the grave of King David. Strange infat- 
uation ! It matters but little after life leaves the body where it is 



262 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

interred ; but if there is a spot on this green earth where I would 
prefer to repose, it is my humble home in the far, far West, where 
those that I love may occasionally be reminded of our mutual joys 
and sorrows. 



LETTER FORTY-FOUR. 

Jerusalem, Palestine. 
Walk about Jerusalem — Potter's Field — Mount of Offence — Mount Zion — Pool of Siloam — 
"Valley of Jehoshaphat — The Tombs of Zechariah, of Jehoshaphat, and of Absalom — Gar- 
den of Gethsemane — Tomb of Virgin Mary — G-rottoes on Mount of Olives — View of the 
City — Sepulchres of the Kings — Grotto of Jeremiah, etc. 

" And they took the thirty pieces of silver, the price of him that was 
valued, whom they of the children of Israel did value, and gave them for 
the potter's field, as the Lord appointed me." 

Having visited over and over again the holy places within the walls 
of Jerusalem, we concluded to take advantage of a fair day to ex- 
amine the interesting localities of the suburbs. Passing through 
the Jaffa Gate, we turned to the left, and soon came to a broken 
and time-worn cemetery called Potter's Field, which is undoubtedly 
the identical spot bought by the chief priests with the thirty pieces 
of silver to bury strangers in. The earth of this field has a peculiar 
reddish color, and quite different in appearance from the land in its 
vicinity. Strangers are buried there to this day ; and the weary pil- 
grim, who knows not what a day may bring forth, looks on Potter's 
Field with a melancholy interest. 

A little further on, and to fche south of the Mount of Olives, are 
beheld the Mount of Offence, the scene of King Solomon's idolatry, 
and also Zion's sacred mount, distinguished both in the Old Testa- 
ment and in the New. " Here the successor of Saul built a city 
and a royal dwelling ; here he kept for three months the Ark of 
the Covenant ;" here the Redeemer instituted the sacrament which 
commemorates his death ; here he appeared to his disciples on the 
day of his resurrection ; and here the Holy Ghost descended on the 
Apostles. Hallowed by so many glorious associations, the stranger, 
while standing on its summit, must experience emotions of a pecu- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 263 

liar and agreeable character. Immediately in front of Zion Gate is 
the tomb of David, hidden from the view of the Christian observer 
by a mosque built over it. 

Descending the mount by a path leading to the valley, we came 
to the Fountain and Pool of Siloam, so celebrated in the history 
of our Saviour's miracles. The brook itself is badly supplied with 
water, of an inferior quality, being warm and somewhat brackish. 
A short distance from the Pool, towards the north, we found the 
source of the scanty rivulet which is called here the Fountain of the 
Virgin, from the belief that she frequently went there to drink. It 
is inclosed with hewn stone, forming a recess about twenty feet 
lower than the surface, and under an arched vault of masonry, very 
well executed. On the hillside immediately opposite the Pool is a 
small Arab village, called Siloam, which presents a very dilapidated 
appearance, and wholly devoid of interest. 

Proceeding up the deep and picturesque valley of Jehoshaphat, 
along the banks of the brook Kedron, we came to the Jewish ceme- 
tery, where the descendants of Jacob have been interred from time 
immemorial, and which is considered even to this day by that pe- 
culiar people to be the most sacred spot on earth. " Here they 
resort from the four quarters of the globe, to yield up their last 
breath ; and a foreigner sells to them, for its weight in gold, a scanty 
spot of earth to cover their remains in the country of their ances- 
tors." Each grave is marked by a flat stone laid over the top ; and 
they are so numerous, that we thought at first it was nothing but a 
heap of rubbish at the foot of the declivity of Mount Olivet. Quite 
a number of Jews may always be seen walking about, or reposing 
under the olive trees in the cemetery. They are easily recognised 
by their peculiar dress, quick, piercing eyes, black eyebrows, and 
long heavy beards. They look pensive, silent, and alone in the 
world, ready, and even anxious, to die in the land of their fathers. 

Proceeding slowly up this interesting valley, our attention was 
attracted to three conspicuous monuments — the tombs of Zechariah, 
of Absalom, and of King Jehoshaphat. The first mentioned of these 
is a square structure, hewn apparently out of the solid rock, and 
separated from the quarry out of which it is cut by a space of fifteen 
feet on three of its sides, the fourth side fronting towards the valley 
and the Mosque of Omar. This singular tomb reminded me very 



264 

much of those in Egypt, although very insignificant in point of 
size, being only about twenty feet in length on the sides, and the 
same height in front, surmounted by a small pyramid of masonry. 
It has four half-columns, cut out of the same rock, on each of its 
faces, with a pilaster at each angle, badly executed, and resembling 
somewhat the Ionic order. We could discover no entrance to the 
tomb, which confirms our belief that the architecture was borrowed 
from the Egyptians. The tomb of Absalom resembles somewhat in 
size, form, etc., that of Zechariah, just described, except that it is 
sculptured with figures of the Doric order, and surmounted by a 
sharp conical dome, with large mouldings around its base, and on 
the top something like a torch. It is made up of such a strange 
mixture of styles, that we could not make up our minds to what 
age it belongs, believing, however, that it occupies the site of the one 
set up by Absalom himself. " Now Absalom, in his lifetime, had 
reared up for himself a pillar, which is in the King's Dale : for he 
said, I have no son to keep my name in remembrance; and he called 
the pillar after his own name ; and it is called unto this day Absa- 
lom's Place." That of Jehoshaphat is in the same vicinity, but not 
so important as the two former. 

A little beyond these tombs, on the hillside, is the famous garden 
of Gethsemane, where our Saviour was betrayed by Judas. a Then 
cometh Jesus with them unto a place called Gethsemane, and said 
unto the disciples, Sit ye here, while I go and pray yonder." This 
sacred place is now inclosed with a stone wall fifteen feet in height, 
and of modern construction. By applying at one of the convents in 
the city, we obtained permission to enter the garden, which is now 
laid out in flower-beds, and contains eight old olive trees, said to be 
the same that were standing at the time when Christ visited it with 
his disciples. 

Immediately opposite the garden, towards the city, is a singularly 
picturesque cavern, in later ages called the Tomb of the Virgin. It 
is approached by a paved court, and has a very pretty front in the 
Grecian style. The descent into the cavern is formed by a hand- 
some flight of steps, made of polished stone, being about fifty in 
number, and of great breadth. About half-way down are two arched 
recesses in the sides, which Thomas, our guide, told us contained the 
ashes of St. Anne, the mother of Mary, and of Joseph her husband. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 265 

Reaching the bottom of the cavern, we were shown by an old monk 
the tomb of the Holy Virgin herself, which is in the form of a sim- 
ple bench covered with marble. Here the Armenians and Greeks 
say mass ; and here the curious traveller stops to wonder and to 
doubt. In the immediate vicinity of this cavern our guide pointed 
out various places, meant to keep alive the remembrance of certain 
occurrences connected with the history of Christ and his people ; 
such as the place where St. Peter and the two sons of Zebedee fell 
asleep when their Master retired to pray — the scene of the agony 
and the bloody sweat — and the spot whereon Judas betrayed the 
Son of man with a kiss ; also the rock on which our Saviour stood 
when he predicted the sack of Jerusalem and the destruction of the 
Temple — the cavern where the Apostles were taught the Lord's 
Prayer — and another where the same individuals, at a later period, 
are said to have met together to form their creed. 

The Mount of Olives has three separate summits, on the principal 
of which are a mosque, and the ruins of an old church, called the 
church of the Ascension, because it contains a stone in the floor with 
the impression of a man's foot upon it, supposed by the credulous 
pilgrims to be the identical spot from which Christ ascended into 
heaven. From the lofty minaret attached to the mosque, we en- 
joyed a magnificent view of Jerusalem and the country round about. 
Looking westward, the ancient city, rich in history and memory, is 
spread out like a map to the eye. Mounts Zion, Moriah, and Cal- 
vary are marked so distinctly, that there can be no doubt about their 
locality. The valley of Jehoshaphat, in all its extent, gives variety 
to the scene — while on the east the Moab mountains, Dead Sea, and 
Jordan complete the panorama. 

Descending the mount, we went about one mile to the northward 
of the city to see the Sepulchres of the Kings, which are by far the 
most costly and singular remains of ancient architecture that we 
ha-ve seen about Jerusalem. Great doubt exists relative to their ori- 
gin and intention ; but from all appearances, they were evidently 
used as the last resting place of high persons. The whole work is 
hewn out of the solid rock, and so adorned with fruits and flowers, 
as to leave no doubt but that it was made at a great cost and labor. 
We approached it on the east side, through an entrance cut out of 
the rock, which admitted us into an open court about one hundred 

12 



266 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

feet square. On the south side is a portico twenty-four feet long 
and ten broad, also cut out of the natural rock, and having an ar- 
chitrave running along its front ornamented in the most exquisite 
style. The entrance into the sepulchre is so much obstructed by 
large stones and rubbish, that we found it a little difficult to get in ; 
but we succeeded at last in entering a large room about twenty- 
four feet square, excavated out of the rock in such a perfect manner, 
that any modern workman would be glad to imitate it. From this 
large room we passed into six others, all of the same construction, 
the two last being lower than the rest, and reached by a small flight 
of steps. All of these chambers, except the first, contain stone coffins, 
placed in niches found in the sides of the apartment. Some of these 
coffins are ornamented with the richest and most beautiful carving 
— equal in some respects to the old Eoman sarcophagus. The most 
remarkable things connected with the Sepulchres of the Kings are 
their doors — of which only one remains, partly hidden by rubbish. 
It is one solid piece of stone, about six inches in thickness, and equal 
in other respects to an ordinary sized door. The carving resembles 
a piece of wainscot, and the entire mass turned upon two hinges in 
the nature of axles. These hinges constituted a part of the door, 
and were lodged in two holes of the solid rock — one at the top, 
and another at the bottom. On our return to the city, through the 
Damascus Gate, we stopped at the Grotto of Jeremiah, where that 
prophet is said to have resided, and where he wrote his book of La- 
mentations. " Jerusalem hath grievously sinned ; therefore she is 
removed. All that honored her despise her, because they have seen 
her wickedness : yea, she sigheth and turneth backward." 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 267 



LETTER FORTY-FIVE. 

Bethlehem, Palestine. 

Bethany — Road to Jericho — Fountain of Elisha — Plain of Jericho — River Jordan — Dead 
Sea— Convent of St. Saba— Tower of Simeon— Tomb of Rachel— Church of the Nativity, 
etc., etc. 

Before visiting the valley of Jordan, it is absolutely necessary for 
all Franks to procure the protection of the Jordan Sheik, and pay 
one pound sterling for tribute money. If you fail to attend to this 
matter, and start alone, you are almost certain to fall among thieves, 
who will deal with you as harshly as their ancestors did to travellers 
in the days of the good Samaritan. "A man went down from Jeru- 
salem to Jericho, and fell among thieves, which stripped him of his 
raiment, and wounded him and departed, leaving him half dead." 
Our dragoman relieved us of all trouble ; and on the day set apart 
for making this excursion, quite a large number of horsemen might 
have been seen wending their way through St. Stephen's Gate and 
the King's Dale towards the ancient town of Bethany. Our party 
was very large, consisting of the English Bishop of Jerusalem and 
his family and ten Americans, besides our guard and attendants. 
This is the greatest number of Americans that ever started together 
over that renowned road; and it is somewhat curious when we 
reflect that our countrymen know more about the geography of the 
Holy Land than any other people, and travel over roads that were 
considered old long, long before the discovery of the western con- 
tinent. 

Following the path that winds around the base of Mount Olivet, 
we soon came to the village of Bethany — now small and poor, the 
cultivation of the country around it being very much neglected by 
the indolent Arabs into whose hands it has fallen. Here we were 
shown the ruins of a house said to have belonged to Lazarus, whom 
Christ raised from the dead, and a grotto, which is represented as 
the veritable tomb wherein the miracle was performed. "Jesus, 
therefore, again groaning in himself, cometh to the grave. It was a 
cave, and a stone lay upon it." We descended by a long and wind- 
ing flight of steps to the bottom, and found two chambers about ten 
feet square, walled up with stone on all sides. This was not all that 



268 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

we saw in Bethany. The dwellings of Simon the Leper, of Mary 
Magdalene, of Martha, and the spot where the barren fig-tree with- 
ered under the curse, were all pointed out to us. We are privileged, 
you know, to doubt as much as we please ; yet it is pleasant to feel 
that we are in the vicinity of such places, if we do not hit exactly 
on the identical spot. 

Leaving Bethany, we descended rapidly for about fifteen miles to 
the plains of Jericho, being several thousand feet below the Medi- 
terranean. The road is exceedingly rugged, and passes through a 
barren and romantic region, covered over with volcanic substances. 
The only object of interest that came under our observation was the 
Khan Hudrur, supposed to have been built by the crusaders for the 
benefit of pilgrims going to the Jordan. Soon after entering the 
plain of Jericho, we came to Ain es Sultan, (Fount of Elisha,) the 
waters of which were sweetened by the prophet. Watering our 
horses there, we proceeded for about half an hour, and found our 
tents pitched near the ancient City of Palms, on the brink of the 
brook Cherith, that is before Jordan. Jericho, which is at present 
a miserable village, inhabited by wild and ruthless Arabs, derives 
all its importance from history. Of all its magnificent buildings, 
there remains only the part of one tower, said to be the dwelling of 
Zaccheus the publican, and a considerable quantity of rubbish, 
which is supposed to mark the boundary of the ancient city. All 
having beards, (except the ladies,) we concluded not to tarry long, 
particularly as we had no use for rams' horns, and started early the 
next morning over the plain to the Jordan. Before describing this 
interesting stream, I must not pass over the mountain of Quarantina, 
the supposed scene of the Temptation and fast of forty days endured 
by our Saviour, who, 

" Looking around on every side, beheld 
A pathless desert dusk with horrid shades : 
The way he came not having marked, return 
Was difficult, by human steps untrod ; 
And he still on was led, but with such thoughts 
Accompanied of things past and to come 
Lodged in his breast, as well might recommend 
Such solitude before choicest society." 

The words of the poet are true even now; for on all sides the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 269 

mountain is dry, barren, and uninviting. It is, as described by St. 
Matthew, an exceeding high mountain, and its ascent both difficult 
and dangerous. A small chapel is to be seen on the top, and an- 
other half-way down on a projecting rock. Near the latter we saw 
a number of caves and holes, excavated by the over-pious, for the 
purpose of undergoing the austerities of Lent. From this renowned 
elevation we obtained the first view of the plain of Jericho and the 
valley of the Jordan. The descent from the mountains to the river 
is gradual, and the soil of the plain is of a white sandy nature, 
strongly impregnated with nitre, and covered with low and stunted 
shrubbery. We approached the sacred stream that winds through 
scenes rendered memorable by such great events, at the Pilgrim's 
Ford, where the Orientals say the waters stood and rose up in a 
heap, while the multitudes of Israel entered dry shod into their 
promised inheritance. "Here is the wilderness where John was 
baptizing, when our Saviour submitted to that solemn rite, and the 
manifestation of his divinity was fully witnessed to by the attestation 
of Heaven." Here thousands of pilgrims have repaired annually for 
ages from all parts of the world, to bathe in water which they sup- 
pose to be endowed with a cleansing moral efficacy. At Easter the 
assemblage is very great, and the scene curious in the extreme. 
Russians, Greeks, Armenians, Copts, Syrians, and a few Franks, all 
mingle together for a season, to perform the dearest act of life. 
Nearly all of them have on a white gown with a black cross upon 
it, which they put away after bathing for the purpose of being 
buried in. As soon as they reach the bank, they make a general 
rush — young and old, rich and poor, sick and sound, men, women, 
and children — into the stream. Many are drowned, but it matters 
not — the scene is sacred, and death is disregarded. The Jordan is 
exceedingly narrow and sinuous, and subject to great floods. We 
threw stones over it without any difficulty, and when we went into 
the stream, it was so rapid that it was almost impossible to maintain 
our foothold. Like many others before us, we filled our bottles with 
the holy water to carry home and baptize the dear little infants of 
our friends, and cut sticks from the agnus castus, or willow, to pre- 
sent to the old men of the church as memorials of the place. 

Leaving the Pilgrim's Ford, we proceeded down the right bank 
about four miles to Lake Asphaltite, the most remarkable sheet of 



270 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OR, 

water in the known world. No person who takes any interest in 
the Bible, can fail to look with the deepest concern upon a scene 
which they may compare with the strange narrative presented in the 
book of Genesis, and to contrast it with the description there pre- 
sented to them of its former beauty and fertility : " Abraham went 
up out of Egypt ; his wife, Lot, his brother's son, and all that he 
had with him. Abraham was very rich in cattle, in silver, and in 
gold. And Lot also, who went with him, had flocks, and herds, and 
tents. And the land was not able to bear them, that they might dwell 
together ; for their substance was great, and there was strife between 
the herdmen of Abraham's cattle and the herdmen of Lot's cattle." 
To avoid any contention, Abraham, in a compromising spirit, gave 
utterance to the following language : " Is not the whole land before 
thee ? If thou wilt take the left hand, then I will go to the right ; 
or if thou depart to the right hand, then I will go to the left. And 
Lot lifted up his eyes, and beheld all the plain of Jordan, that it 
was well watered every where, before the Lord destroyed Sodom and 
Gomorrah, even as the garden of the Lord." So Abraham went to 
the land of Canaan, and Lot occupied the virgin soil of the well- 
watered plain. 

How different its aspect now ! The fields once verdant with corn 
are now inundated, and the sinful cities of Sodom and Gomorrah 
buried beneath the poisonous bosom of the Dead Sea. Such was 
the will of Divine Providence, and all has been verified to the letter. 
A range of hills rise up abruptly on either side, destitute of trees 
and gloomy in their appearance. The water in the distance looks 
green, as if stagnant, though we saw nothing of this appearance 
when we came near to it. A slight ripple was upon its surface, and 
a great deal of froth was seen along the shore, which looked like a 
deposit of salt. Two of us went in bathing, and found the water as 
represented by travellers, exceedingly buoyant. The shore where 
we entered was shelving, and we waded out some distance before it 
was deep enough to swim. After coming out, our bodies were per- 
fectly greasy, and where there was a scratch or pimple it became 
inflamed and annoying. Our hair and beard assumed a stiff and 
dead appearance, which lasted for many days. Pins and all other 
articles of metal about the person turned black immediately. Black 
sea-weed, gravel of different colors, and pieces of drift wood, were 



AKD ASIA. 271 

all that we saw near the water's edge. It is not true, as stated by 
some travellers, that no vegetation or living thing exists in the 
vicinity of the Dead Sea. We saw no tall and luxuriant forests, but 
an abundance of flowers and low stunted shrubbery. A flock of 
cranes flew over the sea while we were there, and birds of many 
kinds were chirping among the flowers. 

Leaving the Dead Sea, we rode for three hours over a mountain- 
ous and desert country, to the Convent of Deir Mar Saba. This 
sacred retreat is singularly situated, half-way between the Dead Sea 
and the ancient city of Bethlehem. Nothing can be more dreary or 
lonely than Santa Saba. It is erected in a ravine, sunk to the depth 
of several hundred feet, where the brook Kedron has formed a chan- 
nel which is dry the greater part of the year. The convent is on a 
slight eminence at the bottom of the dell ; whence the buildings of 
the monastery rise by an almost perpendicular flight of steps and 
passages hewn out of the rock, ascending thus to the top of the hill, 
where they terminate in two square towers of great height. It is 
the largest and best conducted convent in the East, having as many 
as one hundred rooms, and every comfort that the weary pilgrim 
could desire. The chapel is large and well furnished. The skuli 
room contains fourteen thousand skulls of persons who died or were 
killed in the convent ; a curious sight, but unpleasant to look upon. 

From Mar Saba we came to Bethlehem, (Beil Lahm,) the place of 
our Saviour's nativity. u Now when Jesus was born in Bethlehem 
of Judea, in the days of Herod the king, behold there came wise 
men from the east to Jerusalem." It is pleasantly situated on n 
high and terraced hill, surrounded by other hills covered with loose 
stones. The houses are mostly two stories high, built of stone, and 
have flat tops, upon which the citizens pass much of their time. 
The convent, which marks the place of the Redeemer's birth, was 
built by Helena, after removing the idolatrous structure said to have 
been erected by Adrian from a feeling of contempt or jealousy 
towards the Christians. At present it is divided among the monks 
of the Greek, Roman, and Armenian churches, to whom are assigned 
separate portions, as well for lodging as for places of worship, though, 
on certain days, they may all celebrate the rites of their common 
faith on altars which none of them have hitherto been allowed to 
appropriate exclusively. There are two churches, an upper and a 



272 A TEtfNESSEAH ABROAD ; OR, 

lower, under the same roof. The former is nothing remarkable, if 
we except a star inlaid in the floor immediately under the spot in 
i he heavens where the supernatural sign became visible to the wise 
men, and, like it, directly over the place of His nativity below. 
This last is an excavation in the rock, elegantly fitted up and floored 
with marble, and to which there is a descent of steps through a long 
and narrow passage. Here are shown a great number of tombs, 
and among them one in which are said to have been buried all the 
babes murdered by the barbarous Herod. From hence we were 
conducted into a handsome chapel, the floor and walls of which are 
composed of beautiful marble, having on each side five oratories, or 
recesses for prayer, corresponding to the ten stalls supposed to have 
been in the stable wherein the Saviour was born. This sacred place 
is irregular in form, because it occupies the site of the stable and 
the manger. It is thirty-seven feet six inches long, eleven feet three 
inches broad, and nine feet in height. As it receives no light from 
without, it is illumined by thirty-two lamps, sent as presents by 
different princes. At the further extremity of this small church, 
there is an altar placed in an arcade, and hollowed out below in the 
form of an arch, to embrace the sacred spot where Immanuel, hav- 
ing laid aside his glory, first appeared in the garb of human nature. 
A circle in the floor composed of marble and Jasper, surrounded 
with silver, and having rays like those with which . the sun is repre- 
sented, is supposed to mark the very place wherein that stupendous 
event was realized. An inscription, denoting that "Here Jesus 
Christ was born of the Virgin Mary," was once to be seen in these 
words : " Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est," but has 
recently been removed by the barbarous Greeks. Close to this altar 
; s another denoting the manger in which the infant Messiah was 
laid. It is also made of marble, and bears a resemblance to the 
humble couch which alone the furniture of the stable could supply. 
Before it, is the altar of the Wise Men, a memorial of their adora- 
tion and praise at the moment when they saw the young child and 
Mary his mother. This convent is evidently of great antiquity, and, 
though frequently destroyed and as often renewed, it still retains its 
Grecian origin. Like most buildings dedicated to such purposes, it 
has the form of a cross, the nave being adorned with forty-eight 
columns of the Corinthian order in four rows, which are at least two 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 273 

feet six inches in diameter. Just back of the convent a tomb is 
pointed out as that of the Virgin Mary, but as there is also one in 
Jerusalem, there is no way of determining their claims. 

Before leaving Bethlehem, we visited several interesting places in 
the vicinity, such as the ruined tower of Simeon, who upon behold- 
ing the infant Messiah expressed his readiness to leave this world — 
the Monastery of Elias, now in possession of the Greeks, and the 
Tomb of Rachel, rising in a rounded top like the whitened sepulchre 
of an Arab Sheik. 



LETTER FORTY-SIX. 

Hebron, Palestine. 
Pools of Solomon — Aqueduct — Convent of St. John — Hebron— Sepulchre of Patriarchs — 
Quarantine, etc. 

The Pools of Solomon are on the road between Bethlehem and 
Hebron, which, like all other roads in Syria, is exceedingly rugged 
and dangerous, being nothing more than a narrow path without any 
grades, filled with large loose stones. These large fountains origi- 
nated, it is supposed, in a scheme for supplying Jerusalem with water. 
The reservoirs are three in number, and so arranged that the water 
of the highest may flow into the second, and the second into the 
third. Their shape is quadrangular; the breadth is the same in all, 
amounting to about ninety paces. In their length there is a slight 
difference : the first being one hundred and fifty paces long, the sec- 
ond two hundred, and the third two hundred and twenty. They 
are all built up with strong masonry, and plastered so as to render 
them tight. The springs whence the pools are supplied are very 
copious, and secured with great care, having no access to them but 
by a small hole leading into two large chambers neatly arched. 
The water is excellent, and conveyed as of old to Bethlehem and 
Jerusalem through an aqueduct formed of brick pipes, strengthened 
by the application of a peculiarly strong mortar. 

Not far from these celebrated pools is the Convent of St. John's. 
It is situated in the desert, and built over the dwelling where the 
Baptist is supposed to hav& been born ; and accordingly, under the 



274 A TENNESSEAK ABROAD ; OR, 

altar, the spot on which he was brought forth is marked by a star of 
marble, with the inscription, "Hie precursor Domini Christi natus est." 

From appearances this convent was at one time very elegant, 
having a beautiful cupola, and a pavement of mosaic ; but at present 
it looks dilapidated and deserted. 

About dusk on the same day that we left Bethlehem we pitched 
our tents in the suburbs of Hebron, (Habrown,) or according to the 
Arabic orthography by the moderns, El Hhalil. It is removed from 
the usual track of tourists, and possesses very few objects of interest. 
Like nearly all the towns in Syria, it is situated on a hill, with nar- 
row and dirty bazaars. The country in the vicinity looks blasted 
and barren, and the people cursed with poverty. The cave of Mach- 
pelah, which Abraham purchased from Ephron the son of Zohar for 
a burying-place, is now appropriated to the worship of Mohammed. 
No Christian can gain admission, even with a firman from the Porte, 
and we had to content ourselves with a description given us by our 
guide, who said that it was elegantly and beautifully decorated. 
The Quarantine establishment here is similar in structure and 
arrangement to the one at Gaza. We visited it with the expecta- 
tion of meeting some of our friends who crossed the Desert by way 
of Petra, but were disappointed. A "party of English gentlemen 
were there, who informed us that the difficulties between the Akaba 
and Petra tribes precluded them from visiting the city of Rocks. 
After riding many days on the back of a camel, they had the mor- 
tification to find out that John Bull was no better than other people 
in the estimation of the Bedouins of the Desert. 



LETTER FORTY-SEVEN. 

Nazareth", Palestine. 
Return to Jerusalem — Beer — Village of Leban — Jacob's Well — Valley of Shechem — Nablous 
— Sebaste — Gennin— Mount Tor or Tabor— Sea of Galilee— Tiberias — Saphet— Naza- 
reth, etc. 

From Hebron we returned to the Holy City, where we remained 
two days in order to give the dragoman time to lay in a stock of 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 275 

provisions for our tour towards the north. The pious pilgrim might 
pass many months in Jerusalem agreeably and profitably ; but the 
general traveller is more easily satisfied, and is willing to depart as 
soon as he has seen the different places of curiosity. Going out of 
the Damascus Gate, we passed by the Cave of Jeremiah, and Tombs 
of the Kings, to the summit of a lofty hill, where we turned our 
horses and gazed for the last time on the most remarkable city in 
the world. The dome of Omar's Mosque, the Tower of Hippicus, 
and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre were the last objects to fade 
from our vision. We looked at them long and steadily, believiug 
that it was the last time w# would be permitted to enjoy a panorama 
embracing so many hallowed beauties. 

After riding two hours and a quarter, we came to the ruins of an 
ancient town upon a low bank on the left. Three fine arches of 
large hewn stones, apparently of the early Jewish time, stand like a 
crown upon its top ; and on the right of the road, for the road must 
have formerly passed through the town, are spacious semicircular 
terraces in the rocks, with broad steps at regular intervals leading up 
to them, and from one to the other. These ruins are called Atara. 
Two towns are spoken of in the book of Joshua, under the name of 
Ataroth ; one as being on the borders of Ephraim and Benjamin, 
the other as Ataroth-adar, " near the hill that lieth on the south side 
of the nether Beth-horon," which answers well in position to this 
place. 

Moving onward over a narrow path covered with loose stones, we 
came into the region of country famous for one of the greatest prodi- 
gies recorded in the Old Testament — when " The Lord discomfited 
the five kings of the Amorites before Israel, and slew them with a 
great slaughter at Gibeon, and chased them along the way that 
goeth up to Beth-horon, and smote them to Azekah, and unto 
Makkedah. Then spake Joshua to the Lord, in the day when the 
Lord delivered up the Amorites before the children of Israel, and he 
said in the sight of Israel, Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon ; and 
thou, moon, in the valley of Ajalon. And the sun stood still, and 
the moon stayed, until the people had avenged themselves upon 
their enemies.' ' 

After a little more than four hours' ride from Jerusalem, we found 
our tents pitched at a copious fountain, near the village of Beer, 

12* 



276 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

which is the Michmash of Scripture, celebrated as the place where 
Jotham fled from the anger of his brother Abimelech, Judges ix. 
It presents the remains of an extensive khan, built in the time of the 
Crusaders ; also the ruins of a beautiful church, erected, as tradition 
reports, by the pious Helena, on the spot where the Virgin sat down 
to bewail the absence of her son, who had tarried behind in Jerusa- 
lem to commune with the doctors in the temple. 

The following morning we set out for Nablous, which is nine 
hours' ride from Beer, over a road quite as rugged as those described 
in a previous letter. The first object that attracted my attention 
was a low-browed cavern near the roadside, the bottom of which is 
covered with running water produced from springs in the mountain. 
We dismounted and made an examination. The walls are smooth, 
and two columns cut out of the natural rock in the Egyptian style 
stand in the centre of the apartment. We endeavored in vain to 
find out its name, and concluded that it must have been used for 
tombs. Near this place is the supposed neighborhood of that mys- 
tic Bethel where Jacob enjoyed his vision of heavenly things, and 
had his stony couch made easy by the beautiful picture of minister- 
ing angels ascending and descending from the presence of the 
Eternal. (Genesis xxxv.) Passing the village of Broot, situated on a 
lofty dome-shaped hill, we caught a glimpse of the blue waters of the 
Mediterranean, and then descended into the deep and beautiful vale 
in which Leban is situated, called Lebonah in the Bible. Here we 
lunched at an old fountain, over which there is an extensive stone 
ruin. While my friends were taking their siesta, I amused myself 
in an endeavor to use the Arab plough, but failed most signally. 
The cows ran away with me, and the rude plough bounded clear out 
of my hands, while the peasantry stood looking on convulsed with 
laughter. Late in the afternoon we entered the diamond-shaped 
valley of Machna, in which is situated Jacob's Well, Ain Yacoub or 
Es Samascih, the scene of the memorable conference between our 
Saviour and the woman of Samaria. The Empress Helena built a 
church near the well, but it is entirely destroyed, nothing remaining 
but the foundation. The well is covered over with large stones, but 
there is a small aperture down which we looked, and cast some 
stones to try its depth. It must be nearly one hundred feet deep, 
and contains a great deal of water at present. 



AND ASIA. 277 

At this point we entered the narrow valley of Shechem, or Sychar, 
as it is termed in the New Testament — overhung on either side by 
two mountains, Gerizim and Ebal. These eminences are near the 
same height, and both replete with historic interest. 'Twas here 
that the sanction of the Divine law was pronounced — the blessings 
which attend obedience, and the curses which follow the violation 
of the heavenly statutes. "And it shall come to pass, when the 
Lord thy God hath brought thee in unto the land whither thou 
goest to possess it, that thou shalt put the blessing upon mount 
Gerizim, and the curse upon mount Ebal. Are they not on the 
other side of Jordan, by the way where the sun goeth down, in the 
land of the Canaanites, which dwell in the champaign country over 
against Gilgal, beside the plains ofMoreh ?" (Deut. xi. 29, 30.) The 
westernmost, Gerizim, is said by tradition to be the mountain on 
which Abraham offered up his son for the sacrifice, and here the 
children of Israel were commanded to build an altar to the Lord, and 
the blessings of the law were pronounced with a loud voice to the 
people from Gerizim, and its curses from Ebal. 

A few minutes' ride from Jacob's Well brought us to the gate of 
Nablous, which has a population of eight or ten thousand, and is 
one of the most important places in the Holy Land. It is the 
Shechem of Scripture. "Then Jeroboam built Shechem in mount 
Ephraim, and dwelt therein ; and went out from thence and built 
Peniel." (1 Kings xi. 25 ; John iv. 5.) Joseph was buried here, 
(Joshua xxiv. 32,) and the whole country round about is rich in 
Biblical associations. Its appearance, when viewed from the heights 
by which it is surrounded, is really beautiful, and I regard it as 
decidedly the most romantic -looking spot that we have yet seen in 
Syria. The inhabitants are the handsomest people in the East, having 
fine forms, light complexions, and dark piercing eyes. They are 
mostly Mohammedans, and look upon a Christian with a haughty 
bearing. Two long streets run parallel with the valley, entirely 
through the place, and are washed by a stream running in the centre. 

We passed through the town amid shouts, jeers, and stones from 
the children, who are taught by their parents to revile even the 
name of Christian. We succeeded, however, in getting safely 
through, and pitched our tents on the north side of the town. There 
is a considerable trade, as well as several flourishing manufacturing 



278 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

establishments in Nablous. Within the town are six mosques, five 
baths, one Christian church, an excellent covered bazaar for fine 
goods, superior to any of the bazaars in Jerusalem, and an open one 
for provisions, besides numerous cotton cloth manufactures, and 
shops of every description. 

The Samaritans at present in Nablous number only sixty-eight. 
They have a synagogue in the town, where they perform divine 
service every Saturday, and one school where their language is 
taught, and in which is preserved a manuscript of the Pentateuch, 
said to be three thousand two hundred years old. It is written on 
parchment and rolled in a brass box. We were required to take off 
our shoes before entering the synagogue, and as I stood gazing on 
the precious relics shown to us by an old Samaritan, whose beard 
was long and white, I was strongly reminded of the parable in the 
Bible. 

Leaving Nablous, amid the piteous cries of the poor lepers that 
hung about our camp, we descended into the "Vale of many 
Waters," to the village of Beit Wadan, on our left, where turning 
more to the north, we mounted a ridge of low hills, where tillage 
and garden culture cease, and the soil is no longer deep enough for 
the growth of trees ; but the stony ground is covered with the ranun- 
culus, anemone, and lupine of great size, and dazzling brightness of 
blue and white. In one hour more, the valley of Sebaste is seen in 
the north, and in the extreme distance to the west, between the low 
peaks of rocky hills, the Mediterranean opens to the view. Sebaste 
is the Greek name given to the ancient Samaria by Herod the Great in 
honor of the Emperor Augustus. The view of Sebaste is quite pictu- 
resque, occupying the summit of a hill encompassed all round by a deep 
valley, and therefore capable of an easy and complete fortification. The 
Jewish historian describes at length the buildings erected by the 
Idumean prince, especially a citadel, and a noble temple which he 
intended to exhibit to future generations as a specimen of his taste 
and munificence. Evidences of this great structure are still exisftng. 
I counted as many as forty standing limestone columns, besides 
various fragments scattered about the hill-top. A very pretty ruin 
of a church, said to have been built by the Empress Helena, occu- 
pies the most prominent point on the hill over the place where St. 
John the Baptist was beheaded. In the body of this temple, we went 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 279 

down a staircase into the very dungeon where that holy blood was 
shed. 

At this point, we left the territory of Ephraim and passed into 
that of the tribe of Manasseh. Pursuing our course northwards, we 
soon reached a little village where we were again stoned by the 
children. I was behind the party some distance, and passed through 
the village alone. The first intimation I had of the character of the 
people was given by a shower of stones from the house-tops, after 
which I was pursued and hooted at in the most insulting manner. 
The men and the women did not participate in this outrage, but stood 
by and gave countenance to the doings of their children. On the 
evening of the third day we encamped near the village of Gennin, 
situated in the plain of Esdraelon. From the evidence of its position 
and descriptions, as well as from that of its name, it is clearly the 
Ginea of Josephus, and most probably the En-Gannim mentioned as 
a city of the borders of Issachar, near Jezreel, and near the Kishon. 
(Josh. xix. 21 ; xxi. 28.) It has one mosque and about six or eight 
hundred inhabitants, and like the villages in the south, it is built 
entirely of stone. 

Early the next morning we pursued our journey across the plain 
of Esdraelon, famous in many of the most memorable parts of the 
history of the Old Testament; famous during the conflicts of the 
third crusade, and famous in our own times for the stout resistance 
made by Gen. Kleber, with a small force of French infantry, to the 
overwhelming army led by the Turkish Vizier — a resistance which 
Napoleon, after a forced march to the support of his gallant col- 
league, with numbers still vastly inferior to those of the enemy, con- 
verted into a brilliant and decisive victory. It was called by the 
French the battle of Mount Tabor, though fought on the plain 
several miles from the mountain. Soon after leaving Gennin, Mount 
Gibeon became visible on the right. It is considerably higher than 
the surrounding mountains, and is somewhat in the shape of an 
irregular cone. Here it was, in the last fatal battle between Saul 
and the Philistines, that Israel fled, and her champion and his three 
sons were slain. Passing in sight of Mount Tabor and the Lesser 
Hermon, we reached in five hours the hills which separate the plain 
from Nazareth. Before leaving this plain, I must mention that it is 
by far the most extensive and fertile region that we have yet seen in 



280 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

Syria. That part of it which lies near the villages is pretty well 
cultivated ; while the vast body of the vale is open and useless. 
They plough here altogether with cows, whose movements are 
directed by the use of a long pole, with which they touch first one 
animal and then the other. 

Six hours from Gennin brought us to the Latin convent in Naza- 
reth, where we have excellent rooms and every attention from the 
holy fathers. Their hospitality is universally extended, for which 
they ask no remuneration. Gentlemen, however, always present the 
Superior with money to aid them in their charitable deeds. Our 
first duty, after washing up and treating our bodies to clean shirts, 
etc., was to visit the Church of the Annunciation, which forms part 
of the convent. From the nave a double flight of steps leads to the 
space containing the high altar. A narrow stairway between these 
descends to what is shown as the place where stood the house of 
the blessed Virgin : a single chamber or grotto, with a small recess 
beyond, in which an altar is raised, is said to be the spot where she 
received the annunciation that from her should be born the Saviour 
of the world. Back of this is a place said to be the abode of one of 
Joseph's neighbors, who took care of his house during his stay in 
Egypt. Another chapel is shown, said to occupy the site of Joseph's 
work-shop. Another contains a large stone on which Christ dined 
with his apostles. We visited the Greek and one other chapel while 
out, and also a school supported by the English Church. Nazareth, 
the modern Nazara, or Nassera, is situated on the side of a small 
valley surrounded by a great number of barren hills. From my 
window in the convent I have a view of the entire town. Mount 
Tabor, which is about four hours distant, and the Mount of Precipi- 
tation, where they intended to cast Christ headlong into the abyss 
below, (but failed to accomplish their wicked designs,) form promi- 
nent objects in the view. The population of Nazareth at present 
is about four thousand, of whom three thousand are Christians. The 
inhabitants are altogether different in their personal appearance to 
any that we have seen in the East. Most of them have long Roman 
noses, clear complexions, dark eyes, and intelligent countenances — 
showing evidently that they are a superior class of people. 

Leaving the ladies and baggage at the convent, we made our 
excursion to Tiberias, which is one day's journey from Nazareth. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 281 

Two hours' ride brought us to Refer Kenna, or Cana of Galilee, the 
village where our Saviour performed the first miracle. It is situated 
on a slope of a hill, from which there is a fine view of the extensive 
valley below. There is nothing to interest the stranger here, except 
two old stone pots or jars, made of the common rock of the country, 
and said to be the original vessels that contained the water afterwards 
converted into wine. These jars are shaped like a large mortar, and 
are exhibited in a small church belono-ino- to the Greek communion. 
Five hours' ride from Nazareth brought us to the shores of Galilee. 
We did not go into the town immediately, but loitered along the 
water's edge, picking up shells and pebbles. The hot baths, so cele- 
brated for their medicinal properties, are very near the lake, and fitted 
up in the Turkish manner. The water issues from the side of the 
hill in great quantities, and is so hot that I could not hold my hand 
in it one half minute. It is conveyed from the spring into a large 
circular basin made of white marble, and sufficiently deep for a man 
to swim. A large marble bath-tub was pointed out to us, by the 
Arab who had charge of the establishment, as being the same used 
by Ibrahim Pasha while at Tiberias. The water of the lake is clear 
but insipid, and judging from the washed stones high up on the 
shore, it must be subject to heavy storms. Some writers represent 
this sheet of water as being from fifteen to eighteen miles in length, 
and from five to six in breadth, which seems to be a mistake. Judg- 
ing from the eye, I take it to be ten or twelve in length and three to 
four in breadth. It is surrounded by lofty but barren hills, which 
makes it look smaller than it really is. After passing some time in 
viewing the region round about this small sea, including the Mount 
of Beatitudes, where tradition says that Christ delivered his sermon, 
and a hundred other spots celebrated in history, we entered the 
walled town of Tiberias, now rapidly going to decay. Our drago- 
man conducted us to the house of a Jew, where we all slept in one 
room, and had an abundance of fleas and vermin of every descrip- 
tion to keep us awake during the night. From Tiberias I could see 
distinctly the ancient sites of Bethsaida and Capernaum and the 
Mount of Beatitudes. Saffad is not far above the lake, celebrated 
for the beauty of its scenery, and being the place where the Jews 
suppose the Messiah will reign forty years before going to Jerusalem. 
From Tiberias^we ascended a lofty hill, and crossed the plain 



282 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

of Galilee to the western base of Mount Tabor. The ascent of this 
sacred mountain is gradual, and requires one hour and a half to reach 
the summit. It is shaped something like a cone with the top 
knocked off, and a level area of an oval figure, extending about two 
furlongs in length and one in breadth, is seen on the top. It is 
inclosed with trees on all sides except the south, and is most fertile 
and delicious. Having been anciently surrounded with walls and 
trenches, there are remains of considerable fortifications at the present 
day. A thick wall of large stones may be traced quite around the 
summit close to the precipice, on several parts of which are relics of 
bastions. On the eastern side of the hill is a strong castle, and in 
the precincts of it is the grotto in which are three altars in memory 
of the tabernacles that St. Peter proposed to build, and where the 
Latins always perform mass on the anniversary of the Transfigura- 
tion. The mountain derives its celebrity from the opinion enter- 
tained among Christians since the days of Jerome, that it was the 
scene of a memorable event in the history of our Lord. It is situ- 
ated apart from all the other mountains, and furnishes a view of the 
rarest beauty. On the northeast I saw in the distance the expanse 
of the Mediterranean, while all around the spacious and beautiful 
plains of Esdraelon and Galilee greeted the eye. Towards the south 
I had in view the high mountains of Gilboa, so fatal to Saul and his 
sons. A few points to the north appears the Mount of Beatitudes, 
and the high chain of Anti-Libanus covered with snow. To the 
southwest is Carmel, and in the south the hills of Samaria. Descend- 
ing the mountain, we returned to the convent in Nazareth, where 
every thing is comfortable and inviting. 



LETTER FORTY-EIGHT. 

Damascus, Syria. 

Mount Carmel— Acre — Ladder of Tyre — Sidon — Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope — 
Beirout — The Druses — Balbec— Damascus. 

From Nazareth we passed over a rough and mountainous country to 
Sephony, which occupies the site of the ancient Sephoni, described 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 283 

by Josephus as the largest city in Galilee. Here was held one of 
the five Sanhedrims of Palestine, the others being held in Jerusalem, 
Jericho, Gailasa, and Amathus. " It existed as a flourishing city 
till the year 339, when it was destroyed by the Romans in conse- 
quence of an insurrection of the citizens. The castle, once the 
acropolis of the city, stands on the top of the hill, nearly half a mile 
above the village." Soon after leaving Sephony, we entered the 
delightful plain of Zabulon — saw the well of Zabulon, and close to 
it the walled village of Kaffer Mender. The road now lies through 
the narrow vale of Abylene, bounded by low hills covered with oak 
trees, to the village of the same name. Two miles further is another 
well, at the foot of a hill on which is the village of Pere overlook- 
ing the plain of Acre, called sometimes the vale of Kishon or 
Megiddo. This vale is almost one continued swamp, crossed by 
tracks not always easy to find. Crossing the river Kishon, which 
traverses this plain, and in which the host of Sisera were swept away, 
we entered the dirty town of Caiaphus, situated on the bay at the 
foot of Mount Carmel. According to Pocock, this is the Porphyrion 
of the Romans, where Pliny says the Tyrian purple dye was made 
from the shell-fish of the coast. A grove of venerable olive trees 
adorn the road on either side to Mount Carmel, one of the most 
charming spots in the East. This sacred mountain is situated on the 
summit of a lofty promontory, commanding a magnificent view of 
the sea, and Acre, backed by the snowy ranges of Lebanon and Anti- 
Lebanon. The monastery is the largest and best fitted up establish- 
ment in the East. It is built of stone, three stories in height, 
surmounted by a large dome, under which there is an elegant and 
finely furnished chapel. We were received here by the monks with 
great cordiality. The Carmelites do not eat flesh, but live on fish, 
which they furnish to their guests in every variety ; also pastry, and 
admirable wine, (the vino d'oro,) which they make from their own 
vineyards. Carmel is mentioned in the book of Kings, where Elijah 
ordered all Israel, and the prophets of Baal, and the prophets of the 
groves to assemble. 

Descending the lofty steep, we pursued our way northward along 
the margin of the sea, crossing the Kishon and Belus, to the eastern 
gate of Acre, through which we rode and examined its bazaars and 
dismantled walls. The bazaars are well supplied, but Acre no longer 



284 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

presents the appearance of a well fortified city. Just back of it there 
is a handsome aqueduct and fountain of the olden time still in per- 
fect preservation. The first object of interest beyond this is a lofty 
white promontory, corresponding with Mount Carmel, and from 
which the monastery can be distinctly seen. Not far from this we 
crossed the famous pass known by the name of the " Ladder of 
Tyre," and said to have been constructed by Alexander the Great. 
Being now in the land of ancient Phoenicia, of which Sidon was the 
capital, we soon came to the Has el Ain, or the " Fountain Head." 
Here by the roadside are the remains of three large cisterns, in 
which the water stands at the depth of many feet, and whence it 
rushes through different channels and in strong currents to the sea. 
They are also called Solomon's cisterns, and are said to be those 
which supplied Tyre with water in the days of Hiram. A por- 
tion of the aqueduct still remains. Below the cisterns I noticed 
a grist mill with three sets of stones, moved by the volume of water 
flowing from above. Proceeding along the shore, we soon reached 
the ancient city of Tyre, now called Soor. It was one of the great- 
est cities in the East, and was destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar (573 
B. C.) after a siege of thirteen years, (see Ezekiel xxvi. 4, 12, 21,) 
about one hundred and seventy years after its destruction by the 
Assyrians. The Tyrians built insular Tyre, which was taken by 
Alexander the Great, after a siege of seven months, by filling up the 
channel which separated it from the continent. After being succes- 
sively under the power of the Greeks, the Romans, the Crusaders, 
and the Saracens, it finally fell into the hands of the Turks in 1289. 
Many relics still remain to prove the importance of the ancient city, 
such as portions of the old wall, and huge granite columns thirty or 
forty feet in length, lying about in different parts of the village, and 
on the sea-shore. The island is now completely connected with the 
main land. The present village of Soor contains a population of 
between three and four thousand, and has two mosques and three 
Christian churches. The site is now a flat and barren point project- 
ing into the sea, with lofty mountains covered with snow in the back- 
ground. We enjoyed the luxury of a bath in the waters where the 
shipping of this mighty city was once carried on, and I could not 
help thinking of the prophecies in the Bible, which are verified, I 
may say, almost to the letter. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 28 5 

We pitched our tents outside the walls of Soor on a hill of sand, 
and had the pleasure, about two o'clock in the night, of being 
aroused by a shower of rain falling on our beds, the tents having 
been carried away some time previous by a sudden gust of wind. 
Seeing that our chances of rest were completely broken into, we 
dressed and protected ourselves as best we could from the pitiless 
storm by wrapping the tent cloth over us. As you might imagine, 
we were in a terrible plight the next morning, but with our ardor 
for sight-seeing not the least abated. Leaving the ancient city of 
Tyre, where the fishermen spread their nets, we passed along the 
shore to a considerable stream called ISahr Kasmia, over which there 
is a beautiful bridge of one arch, constructed by the Romans, and in 
great preservation. Two hours more brought us to the promontory 
called Ras Sarfa, the Sarepta of the prophet Elijah. Here are 
several excavations in the rock, and scattered ruins lying between 
them and the sea. Not far from this is El Borek, where there is a 
fountain shaded with trees, and from which there is an aqueduct 
conveying the water to Sidon, now called Saida, situated on an 
elevated site commanding a view of Tyre, which is about twenty 
miles distant. Sidon is a much more beautiful and flourishing place 
than its sister city, but the prophecies of the Bible can be traced 
even here, by the most casual observer. A few hours' ride from the 
hill back of the city is still to be seen in a romantic situation Mar 
Elias, the residence of Lady Hester Stanhope, who gave up society, 
friends, and country, to live like a hermit in this desolate region, 
where her only associates were the untutored natives and an occa- 
sional traveller. The Arabs regarded her as a divine creature, and 
her influence over them was truly wonderful. Even to this day her 
memory is revered, and her secluded abode held sacred. 

From Sidon we passed through gardens filled with orange and 
lemon trees to a very pretty stream called Nahr el Owely, over 
which there is an excellent stone bridge. After this the road to Bei- 
rout runs along the sea-coast — sometimes upon the sandy beach of 
the shore, and at others over rocky paths at a little distance from it. 
Just before reaching Beirout we entered a beautiful grove of pine 
trees, planted by the famous Fakr el Din, the prince of the Druses — 
then through a narrow way hedged in on both sides by sloping em- 
bankments of earth, crowned with the prickly pear, and so high that 



286 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

it appeared as if we were going through a dark tunnel. Our drago- 
man conducted us to a small hotel in the city, which looked so 
uninviting that we absolutely refused to take rooms, preferring to 
live in our tents, rather than suffer beyond human endurance. Find- 
ing that we were determined, he agreed that Demetrie's hotel a little 
way outside of the walls, on the sea-shore, was decidedly better. 
Now Demetrie is a Greek of remarkably fine appearance, and takes 
great pride in keeping the best house in Syria. He always dresses 
in the costume of his native country, and walks about the premises 
with the consciousness that he is the observed of all observers. 
Beirout, the ancient Berytus, is the principal seaport, and decidedly 
the most agreeable place in Syria. It is situated at the end of a 
long headland that projects into the Mediterranean, and is fortified 
on the land side by a high wail flanked with towers. The streets 
are irregular, and like those of most Eastern towns, are narrow and 
dark. The bazaars are large, and well supplied with silks and other 
costly articles. The population chiefly consists of Maronite Chris- 
tians. A large number of American missionaries reside in this city, 
and have a chapel and flourishing school. One of the missionaries 
told us that they were doing a great deal of good in educating and 
training the natives to habits of virtue and probity, but for my part 
I could discover neither. 

From Beirout we came to this city by way of the celebrated ruins 
of Balbec. Before starting, our Moukris played off on me one of 
the thousand and one tricks that a pilgrim is subject to. The horse 
which I rode through the Holy Land, called Ahbeyen, (best quality,) 
was missing, and an inferior horse brought in his stead. The party 
was ready to start, and it was too late to remedy the imposition. 

One hour's ride from Beirout brought us to the base of the Leb- 
anon range of mountains, over which our road passes. Notwith- 
standing a great trade is carried on between these two cities, and 
hundreds of pack-mules throng it every day laden with costly goods, 
I venture the assertion, that there is no highway in the world half so 
rough, or half so dangerous. We intended visiting Deir el Kammar 
and Damas, the chief towns of the Druses, but were prevented on 
account of the difficulties between the people and the Turkish sol- 
diers. The government wishes to force the Druses to enlist as 
soldiers, but they refuse, and make forcible resistance. Several 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 287 

severe battles have been fought, and the Turkish troops forced to 
retreat to Sidon. The day after leaving the sea, we entered the 
broad and beautiful plain of Beka, or Coelo-Syria, so called by the 
ancients as being the hollow country between the ranges of Lebanon 
and Anti-Lebanon. 

Turning northward, we halted a short time at a Moslem village 
called Kerak, to see what the natives call Noah's Tomb. It measures 
over one hundred feet, and is about two feet in width. This tomb 
is supposed to be that of the great restorer of the human race, and 
is kept covered with green baize — the color of the Prophet. An 
Arab woman of uncommon personal beauty carried the keys of the 
door, and gave me a ring from her finger as a memento of the 
place. 

Pursuing our way up the beautiful valley until the sun was low 
in the west, we came in view of the ruins of Balbec. About midway 
across the plain, and nearly two miles from the main ruins, are the 
remains of a small but massive octagonal temple, called by the na- 
tives Kabet Douris. It consists of eight smooth granite columns, 
covered with stone blocks of different material and workmanship. 
We pitched our tents in the court of the great temple, and enjoyed 
the first sight of its wonder and magnificence by moonlight. I have 
seen the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, the ruins at Thebes, and 
indeed all the ruins of Europe and Egypt, but I have never seen any 
thing to equal in grandeur and romantic loveliness this far-famed 
temple. One look at its majestic proportions fully compensated for 
all the fatigue, trials, troubles, and tribulations that we have experi- 
enced in this blighted country. I shall never forget the night we 
spent at Balbec ; as long as memory holds her own, I will recur 
with pleasurable emotions to that dreary spot, where pilgrims for 
ages have stood and given themselves up to its all-powerful influence. 
One of the ladies of the party, who had an exquisite voice, ascended 
to the top of the great temple, and sang Uncle Ned and other familiar 
airs. I had heard them often before in the far west, but they were 
not half so beautiful as they fell from her lips. It reminded me of 
home and those old familiar faces that I may never see again. 

But let this pass for the present, while I describe to you in a feeble 
manner the ruins of Balbec. The best preserved of the two temples 
is dedicated to the Sun, (Baal,) the larger to the " Gods of Heli- 



288 A TENNESSEAff ABROAD J OR, 

opolis." The principal entrance to the large temple was by a Co- 
rinthian colonnade, with a handsome flight of stone steps. A wall 
of modern date has been built across it, flanked at each end by two 
square towers. Columns, cornices, pillars, and vast fragments of the 
building lay scattered about here in sad confusion. The columns in 
the large temple are about sixty feet in length, and seven feet in 
diameter, and I observed three stones in the outer w T all measuring 
sixty-eight feet in length, fourteen in height, and sixteen and a half 
in breadth. These stones were conveyed by some unknown power 
from the quarry, half a mile distant, and elevated twenty-five feet 
above the ground. The six standing columns of the large temple 
present the most imposing appearance I ever beheld. 

The Temple of the Sun stands nearly south of the great temple, 
and the best view of it is from the six columns. Four richly corniced 
pillars at the south-east corner are all that remain of the portico. A 
Saracenic tower has been built over them, and in front of the princi- 
pal entrance is a high stone wall, apparently of the same age as the 
tower. Passing through a low gateway, we found ourselves in front 
of this magnificent portal. It is built in the richest and most florid 
style of Corinthian architecture. The centre, or keystone, has been 
forced partly out of its place, most probably the effect of some earth- 
quake, to which the whole of Syria is more or less subjected. Over 
it is a carved eagle holding a caduceus in his talons, and garlands 
in his beak. The interior of the temple is richly ornamented, but 
the entire roof has fallen in. Not far from the east corner is a square 
Saracenic building, with an arched roof, so formed as to support 
another building, few traces of which remain ; a staircase on one 
side leads to the top. Ibrahim Pasha converted this building into 
a magazine. A little to the north-east of this building, and across the 
river, is a small circular temple of the Corinthian order, embowered 
among trees. It is one of the most elegant edifices in all Syria. 
Unfortunately, it has suffered very seriously, in common with the 
other temples, from repeated shocks of earthquakes, which have left 
so little standing evidence of the vast and wonderful chambers of 
the ancient Balbec. Close to the temple is a large ruined mosque, 
which seems to have been built out of the fragments of the buildings, 
and contains a tomb supposed by Lord Nugent to be that of the 
great Saladin. The inscription is in Arabic, and is thus translated 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 289 

in Nugent's work on the East : " Under this tablet is laid, by God's 
power, his most mighty officer, to whom there was no rival ; King 
of the Arabs — King of the Seas and Lands, King of all Nations — lover 
of peace and justice, the most intelligent servant of the Most High 
God, unto whom he built this sanctuary ; the most noble, powerful, 
and wise ; the honor of all the world ; the greatest king — Saleh-alla- 
ed-Dhein, who by the wisdom of his mind won all these countries, 
as also the affections of all the people whom he subdued in the land 
of peace." This being the last object of interest in the ancient city 
of Balbec, we took one long and lingering look before starting to 
this city. 

There is very little to interest the traveller on the road between 
the two places, except some bold scenery of the Anti-Libanus, and 
the celebrated cedars of Lebanon, mentioned in the books of Ezra 
and Ezekiel. Our first view of the plain of Ghouta, in which 
Damascus is situated, was sudden and grand. We came to it unex- 
pectedly, and in an instant one unbroken view as far as the eye 
could reach, covered over with innumerable villages, mounds, and 
water-courses, was presented to the eye, forming a panorama of rare 
beauty. From the elevated position from which we first beheld 
Damascus, it looked to be in the shape of the figure six, but so much 
concealed by numerous groves and gardens that encompass it on 
every side, that our view was very imperfect. These gardens, which 
are chiefly private property, abound in fountains and summer-houses; 
and here under the shade of the walnut, the citron, the orange, and 
the pomegranate, the luxurious and idle Turk passes the greater pail 
of his time during the summer months, lost to every thing around 
him but the smoke he is inhaling from his chibook or arghile. The 
principal gardens lie close to the town, between it and the mountain 
of Sulihizzeh, but they are scattered through the whole of the plan- 
tation around Damascus, which extends over a circumference of 
nearly twenty miles. Near the centre of this plantation stands the 
city, about six miles in circumference. Two of the branches of the 
river Barrada flow through the environs, and may probably be the 
cause of the luxurious vegetation ; while the main branch of the 
river passes through the town, supplies the numerous plantations 
and baths, which contribute so much to the elegance, as well as gen- 
eral salubrity of this queen of Oriental cities 

13 



290 

Descending from trie mountain into the plain, we passed through 
a neat little village into a narrow lane, walled in on either side with 
large blocks of dried mud and gravel mingled together, and placed 
in the same manner that we build our stone walls. Entering the 
gate on the east side of the city, we passed through a number of 
well-filled bazaars to the Palmyra Hotel, kept by a Greek. It is the 
only hotel in Damascus, and excepting Demetrie's, in Beirout, it is 
the best in Syria. The external appearance of the house is not at 
all attractive, but the inner court and the apartments are really 
elegant. The walls are beautifully painted in the Oriental fashion, 
the ceiling inlaid with pearl, and fountains filled with pure water 
ornament the court, and the centre of each chamber. It is decidedly 
the most comfortable place that we have been into for many months 
— so much so, that I would like to remain here several weeks, but 
time is precious, and other engagements demand that we should see 
the city in a few days, and be off. 

The morning after our arrival we enjoyed the luxury of a Turkish 
bath, in an excellent establishment adjoining the hotel. The opera- 
tion is rather long, but so comfortable that we do not regret the 
time spent. As many of your readers are unacquainted with this East- 
ern luxury, I will briefly describe it in its appointments. We were first 
conducted into a large circular apartment with a fountain in the 
centre — towels and pipes hanging about in all directions, and elevated 
platforms on which are arranged couches for the customers. Here 
we undressed, had a cover placed about our loins and a white cotton tur- 
ban on our heads. Placing our feet in high pattens, we were conducted 
slowly by two Turkish boys through three rooms of different tem- 
peratures. We remained about half an hour in the third room, and 
were then conducted into a fourth, of still warmer temperature, where 
we were soaped, kneaded, and hot water poured over us. We 
remained in the fourth room about one hour, and were then con- 
ducted into a fifth room, where we went down head and ears into 
a large basin of very hot water. In this we remained only a few 
minutes, when we were conducted to the couches in the first room, 
where we lay on our backs covered with sheets, and smoking arghiles 
until breakfast was announced. This last operation is decidedly the 
most agreeable, and constitutes the chief luxury of the bath. 

After breakfast we went into the silk bazaars, and purchased a 



LETTERS FROM EUROFE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 291 

variety of scarfs and other articles peculiar to Damascus and Aleppo. 
The j will be much prized by our lady friends at home — both on 
account of their beauty, and the fact that they were bought here for 
them. 

The bazaars of Damascus are far more numerous and better sup- 
plied than those in Cairo. Each trade has a separate quarter for 
their goods, and they are better lighted and have a more elegant 
appearance than we have seen in any other Eastern city. 

From the bazaars our guide conducted us to the private houses of 
several wealthy Jews, which constitute the greatest attraction of 
Damascus. We were received by the ladies with the utmost kind- 
ness. Refreshments were furnished, and every facility offered to see 
and learn their manner of living. The apartments are very numerous, 
and fitted up in a style peculiarly Oriental. The ladies are very 
fair, dress richly, but without taste, and exhibit their bosoms in a 
manner that would shock the females in our country. The coffee- 
houses are numerous and well furnished, generally speaking ; they 
are open on all sides, except where partially covered with plants 
trained up the slender columns which support the roofs. Many of 
them project over some running stream, with orchards and gardens 
covering the opposite bank. Here, during the spring and summer 
months, the ear is greeted with the notes of singing birds, thousands 
of which shelter themselves amidst the luxuriant groves of apricot, 
mulberry, and Damascus plum trees, whose fruit is strangely mingled 
with the dense foliage of the elm, the ash, the willow, and the syca- 
more. I noticed one sycamore in the bazaar that was at least fifteen 
feet in diameter, also grape vines of enormous size. While we were 
sipping our coffee in one of these pleasant places, I observed five 
men standing around a large mortar pounding coffee. Four of them 
had pestles similar to those used with us for beating corn, but far 
heavier, each weighing forty pounds. The fifth man stood and stirred 
the coffee up with his hands amid the four pestles with a dexterity 
really wonderful. While pounding they sung a low and monotonous 
song, and exerted themselves in a manner that few ordinary men 
could undergo. They were all nearly naked, and the perspiration 
rolled down their bodies into the coffee in such streams that I disliked 
to drink the beverage. Although Damascus is a large and important 
city, there are but few objects in it to interest the Christian stranger. 



292 A TENNESSEAST ABROAD; OK, 

Our guide conducted us to a small cellar, said to be the house of 
Judas, in which Ananias restored sight to Saul. A quarter of a 
mile from the eastern gate of the city, a spot is pointed out as the 
scene of his miraculous conversion, not far from which is also shown 
the part of the wall from which St. Paul was let down by night in 
a basket, to avoid the Jews, who were keeping watch at the gate to 
kill him. (Acts ix. 11-20.) 

Mr. Burnet, of Cincinnati, who is a missionary residing in Damas- 
cus, pointed out to us the ruins of a temple near the great mosque, 
which has no name, nor is it mentioned in any of the books. Six huge 
columns, surmounted by a heavy cornice, are all that remains of the 
temple. It is admirably executed, and furnishes the best view of the 
city. 

The population of Damascus is estimated at one hundred and fifty 
thousand, of whom twelve thousand are Christians, four thousand • 
Jews, and the remainder Mohammedans. If the city was connected 
with Beirout by railroad it would flourish very rapidly ; but the vast 
and magnificent plain in which it is situated is so isolated from the 
world, that they cannot expect to make much advancement. 

This is my last letter from Syria. In a few days we sail for 
Smyrna and Constantinople, and if convenient I will furnish you 
with letters describing the remainder of our tour. 



LETTER FORTY-NINE. 

Smyrna, Asia Minor. 
Farewell to the Holy Land — Voyage to Smyrna — Our Steamer and Passengers — Island of 
Cyprus — Coast of Karamania — Islands of Rhodes, Samos, and Scio — Bay of Smyrna — The 
Quarantine. 

Like the Jews, I always had, from the time I learnt my catechism 
at the Sunday school, a strong desire to see with my own eyes the 
scenes of Sacred History. To live and die, and be cheated out of 
this darling idea, was too great a privation, and I had no rest till the 
tour was accomplished. Now that I have visited all the Holy Places, 
and lingered sufficiently long to hear the wondrous story, and expe- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 293 

rience those ecstatic feelings that none can enjoy but the pilgrim, I 
feel content, and thank my God that my day-dreams have been real- 
ized. Something may transpire hereafter to induce me to revisit 
the Holy Land, but the privations, dangers, and annoyances that one 
must unavoidably encounter, will always incline me to live on the 
memory of the past. 

From Beirout we embarked on the steamer Stamboul (belonging 
to the Austrian Lloyd line) for the city of Smyrna, having for our 
companions en voyage the Bishop of Jerusalem, (who is an intelli- 
gent Swiss,) a number of Turkish officers, nine Americans, and six 
hundred pilgrims. The deck was crowded to suffocation with a spe- 
cies of humanity no where else to be seen, except in the Orient. Most 
of them were Greeks and Armenians, besides many Turks and Per- 
sians, all mingled together in one great mass, looking more like pigs 
in a sty than human beings. They were returning from Jerusalem, 
where they went to pass the Easter holidays. Nearly all of them 
had long tin boxes filled with miserable paintings of the Virgin and 
our Saviour, which they procured in the Holy City to carry home 
as mementoes. I was a little surprised to observe magnificent dia- 
monds on the fingers of some who dressed shabbily, and lived for 
economy's sake on nothing but vegetables. Indeed, there are many 
of these creatures who appear perfectly destitute, and yet count 
their thousands. 

Early the following morning we cast anchor in the bay of Larnica, 
the principal town on the island of Cyprus, where we remained several 
hours for the purpose of putting off sixty or one hundred pilgrims. 
Cyprus is the most easterly island of the Mediterranean, off the coast 
of Syria. In ancient times it was believed peculiarly the favorite 
abode of Venus — a fable originating probably in the voluptuousness 
of its inhabitants. The island is seventy leagues in length from east 
to west, and thirty leagues in its greatest breadth ; its circumference 
is one hundred and eighty leagues. It is traversed by two moun- 
tain ranges of considerable height, from which many streams descend, 
which once diffused verdure, and added to the beauty of the scenery. 
Under a good government and proper cultivation, Cyprus would be 
a valuable island. It produces grapes in abundance, from which an 
excellent wine, known in the Levant as the Vino di Commanderia, 
is produced. The leather, madder for dyeing cotton red, opium 



294 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

coloquintida, soda, and other valuables, are to be found there. Leaving 
Cyprus, we coasted the shores of Karamania, which are exceedingly 
barren and dreary ; the hills rise abruptly from the sea, and are cul- 
tivated only here and there in small patches by a few straggling- 
Greeks. This part of Asia Minor is very thinly populated, and con- 
sidered unsafe to travel through, on account of the roving banditti 
that infest all that region. 

Early on the morning of the fourth day we reached the city of 
Rhodes, situated on the north-eastern extremity of the island of 
Rhodes, and celebrated both in the annals of ancient and modern 
history. The inhabitants of the island obtained the sovereignty of 
the sea in early times by their superior knowledge of maritime 
affairs and navigation, and were conspicuous for their learning and 
the fine arts. It is better known at the present day as the residence 
of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and the theatre of one of 
the most heroic defences on record. The island is about thirty miles 
long, eighteen broad, and one hundred and forty in circumference. 
The coast is indented with gulfs and winding bays, well protected 
by bold promontories. The soil was originally extremely fertile, but 
has been so much neglected of late years that it no longer bears 
that appearance. Rhodes, the chief town, is defended by massive 
fortifications and large square towers. It is no longer a place of 
importance ; its ruined streets are gloomy and deserted ; the houses 
are chiefly of stone, and many of them uninhabited. Several remains 
of the works of the knights are still to be seen in tolerable preserva- 
tion. The street of the knights is straight and well paved, and some 
of the houses retain the armorial bearings of the knights, sculptured 
on the wall over the doors. The captain of the " Stamboul" pointed 
out to me the two rocks upon which stood the great Colossus, one 
of the seven wonders of the world, erected in honor of the sun, and 
dedicated to Apollo, to whom the whole island was consecrated. 
These two rocks, which are situated at the entrance of one of the 
harbors, are stated to be fifty feet asunder, and the statue tall enough 
for ships to pass between its legs. Judging from the eye, the dis- 
tance appears to be greater. The Colossus was from one hundred 
and Hve to one hundred and fifty feet in length. Pliny states that 
this wonderful monument was the work of Chares, the disciple of 
Lysippus. Fifty-six years after its construction it was thrown down 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 29."". 

by an earthquake. It is said to have been the labor of twelve years. 
and to have cost three hundred talents. It remained where it fell 
for nine hundred years, till A. D. 67 2, when Maowias, the sixth 
Caliph of the Saracens, sold the brass to a Jew, who carried it off, 
loading nine hundred camels with its remains. JSTo scholar can 
reflect upon the past history of this little island, and view its presen 
condition, without a feeling of sadness and regret. But such is the 
history of the world : the greatest works of man must pass away, 
and vanish for ever, while the immutable creations of God stand the 
shock of ao-es, reminding us of our own weakness. 

Quite a number of small islands skirt the shores of Asia Minor in 
the vicinity of Rhodes ; Stanchio, Lero, and others lie near the track 
of the steamers. All is desolation upon them ; nothing presents 
itself but barren rocks, and an occasional hut of some poor Greek. 

The island of Samos next attracted our attention. It is known 
as the birthplace of Pythagoras, Clicerilus the poet, Conon the 
painter, and several other distinguished characters. Herodotus here 
sought refuge from persecution, and composed the first books of hi 
history. The modern Samonites were the first to join in the Greek 
insurrection, and they massacred or drove the Turks out of the island 
which they put in a state of defence. 

The island of Scio was in ancient times called Chios, and consid- 
ered the paradise of the Levant, on account of its natural fertility 
beautiful scenery, extraordinary verdure, and the richness of th( 
foliage covering the whole face of the country. The Sciotes als< 
participated in the Greek revolution. In 1822 the whole island wa* 
desolated by conflagration, plunder, and death. The females wer< 
sold as slaves, the men and male children massacred, and many of tin 
principal merchants hung. Thirty thousand were passed through the 
custom house as slaves, and of the 120,000 souls who composed thi 
population but nine hundred remained, all of whom were swepi 
away by the pestilence which followed. The island has improve^ 
much of late years, and recovered, to some extent, its former import- 
ance. "Ion the tragic poet, Theopompus the historian, who flour- 
ished in the time of Philip of Macedon, Theocritus the sophist, and 
Metrodorus the philosopher and physician, were natives of Chios, 
which is also one of the spots which contend for the honor of having 
given birth to Homer." 



296 A TENSTESSEAST ABROAD J OR, 

Passing through the strait of Scio, we soon entered the beautiful 
gulf of Smyrna, which is thirty-three miles long, and from five to 
fifteen broad. It is encompassed with high mountains clothed with 
verdure, and has numerous headlands and islands intervening between 
the entrance and the tower. It was exceedingly rough when we 
entered the gulf, and the mist obstructed the view very much, yet I 
could see enough to convince me that it merited all the praise be- 
stowed upon it by ancient and modern writers. Passing the Castle 
of the Sea, situated on a low point near the water's edge, we saw 
for the first time the city of Smyrna, the queen of the cities of Ana- 
tolia, celebrated by the ancients under the title of the lovely, the 
crown of Ionia, the ornament of Asia. The ruined castle on the 
summit of Mount Pagus, the cypress forests of the cemeteries, the 
numerous mosques, minarets, and cupolas, all reminded me that I 
was approaching one of the cities of the Seven Churches mentioned 
in the 11th chapter of Revelations. 

We weighed anchor near the city and discharged the mails before 
going to the Lazaretto, situated below the city, and in which we 
were compelled to remain three long days. Five days' quarantine is 
the time prescribed by law, but the day we entered was counted as 
one and the day of our departure as another, leaving three days in 
the Lazaretto. These establishments are certainly the greatest nui- 
sance that a traveller in the East is compelled to undergo. The one 
at Gaza was bad enough in all conscience, but it was very comfort- 
able in comparison to this, which is badly managed, and was so 
much crowded during our confinement as to render it really danger- 
ous in case of the appearance of one of the many maladies peculiar 
to the East. 

Five Americans were crowded in a room about twenty feet square, 
four in another, and two ladies with the wife and children of the 
Bishop of Jerusalem in a third. Our beds and meals were furnished 
at the rate of two Spanish dollars per day by the proprietor of a 
hotel in Smyrna, and was in keeping with the quarantine. If you 
desire to know how we occupied our time, just pay a visit to one of 
our asylums or jails, and you can form a pretty correct idea of the 
pleasures that we experienced. After the fumigation of our trunks, 
and examination of our tongues, the French physician gave us^>m- 
tique, and we " cut stick " as soon as possible for better quarters. It 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 297 

is a little astonishing that the nations of Europe and our own coun- 
try do not take some steps to relieve their citizens of this abominable 
regulation, practised only to extort money from strangers. 



LETTER FIFTY. 

Smyrna, Asia Minor. 
Appearance of Smyrna — Mount Pagus — The Six Churches — Caravan Bridge — The Ceme- 
teries — Donkey Ride — Encounter with Albanian Banditti — Beauty of the Women — Ame- 
rican and French Vessels in the Harbor. 

The city of Smyrna has been the scene of desolation from its earliest 
history, having risen ten times from her ruins with new splendor. 
Its origin has been ascribed to Alexander the Great, who was 
admonished in a dream to build a city on this spot for the Smyr- 
nians, who came from Ephesus. If he had dreamed with his eyes 
open, he could not have selected a point better suited, in every par- 
ticular, for a large commercial emporium. Like San Francisco, it 
is far removed from the sea, with a harbor capacious enough to 
protect her vessels from the severest stress of weather. 

" Over against the city once stood the famous temple of Cybele. 
But what the inhabitants most glory in, is the circumstance of its 
having given birth to Homer." The city at present is shaped some- 
thing like an ellipse, and extends for nearly two miles along the 
coast. It is built on the acclivity of Mount Pagus, from which the 
material for building is mostly taken. The population of Smyrna is 
about 150,000; of whom 80,000 are Turks, 40,000 Greeks, 15,000 
Jews, 10,000 Armenians, and 5,000 Franks. The followers of each 
faith have their distinct quarters allotted to them. Every trade has 
a bazaar set apart for it ; and the streets present more the appear- 
ance of an Italian city than any I have seen since leaving Naples. 
The houses of the Armenians and Turks are mostly painted blue on 
the outside, and those in the Frank quarter are built of stone. 

The most curious places about Smyrna are the cemeteries, filled 
with forests of tall and gloomy-looking pines. The tombs of the 
males, in the Turkish cemetery, are designated by a turban, cut in 

13* 



298 A TENNESSEAK ABROAD ; OR, 

marble, on the top of the head-piece ; and those of the gentler sex, 
by a rose — fit emblem of purity and love. 

In going to the Caravan Bridge, the favorite resort for the Turks 
in summer, we had an opportunity of witnessing a caravan, extend- 
ing about two miles, and loaded with fruits and silks. The silks 
were from Persia, and of the richest quality. I congratulated my- 
self that I was not a woman, for they looked so tempting that I 
might have exhausted my letter of credit 

Smyrna is the great fig market of the world. Vessels from all 
nations can be seen loading with this delicious fruit. On the 
steamers and in the hotels they did not furnish us with the best 
quality, and gave as their reason, that the price was so great, that 
none but rich foreign people could afford to eat them. 

Persons wishing to visit the six remaining churches of Ephesus, 
Laodicea, Philadelphia, Sardis, Thyatira, and Pergamos, usually 
make this their starting point. To see them all, requires some ten 
or fifteen days ; and I have been informed by persons who have 
visited them, that the ruins in several are well deserving attention, 
and will fully repay one for the trouble, danger, and expense of the 
journey. 

During our stay in Smyrna, we took a ride on that animal of 
animals called the donkey. Ah ! I will not soon forget that ride. 
Without stirrups to diminish my longitude, or bridle to guide the 
stubborn beast, I was left to the mercy of a driver, who seemed to 
delight in the fun created by our ludicrous appearance as we passed 
through the bazaars. The people looked at me and then at my 
donkey, as if to say, What a long individual, and what a short 
donkey ! strangers, can't you relieve the little fellow ? Fortunately, 
we had been gazed at so often that our faces had become hard, and 
if such had not been the case the profusion of fancy beard on my 
face would have defied them to detect a blush. Passing almost 
through the entire length of the city, we revisited that detestable 
place known as the Lazaretto, where our old travelling companions, 
Messrs. E — g, P., and F. P., were fighting against time. We were 
not allowed to enter the premises, but shook hands and conversed 
with them through the gratings. After giving in our experience, 
we bade them good -by, and hope to meet them somewhere in 
Europe. We then proceeded to the summit of Mount Pagus to 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 299 

enjoy the magnificent view of the city and bay, and to examine the 
ruins of the old castle, which is now deserted and fast falling to 
decay. A very large space is inclosed within the walls, and in the 
centre of it is the ruined mosque, supposed to have been the original 
church of Smyrna. Our guide pointed out portions of the old Hel- 
lenic walls, some of the relics of the Temple of Jupiter, the stadium, 
the place where Poly carp is said to have suffered martyrdom, beside-' 
the fragments of numerous busts, cornices, columns, and entablatures. 
Our examination was suddenly interrupted by the magic appearance 
of two men dressed in the Albanian costume, and armed cap-a-pie. 
They proposed to hold our donkeys, but we declined, and imme- 
diately started back to the city, having received intimation from our 
guide that they were brigands, and would in a few minutes summon 
their comrades and make us their captives. We had left our 
weapons at the hotel, and thinking that " discretion was the better 
part of valor," we made our little animals cut dirt faster, probably, 
than they ever did before. These brigands are the most desperate 
characters in all the East, and keep the Smyrnians in constant 
terror. Just before our arrival, they seized the Dutch Consul, while 
walking in his garden, and conveyed him to one of their dens in the 
country, hoping that some great reward would be offered for his 
return. No reward, however, was offered, and they sent in word to 
his wife that five thousand dollars ransom money would save her 
husband, and if it was not paid on a certain day, they would send 
in his head for her to make soup out of. This message induced the 
friends- of the Consul to furnish the money, and he was permitted to 
return once more to the bosom of his family. 

Smyrna from its earliest history has been renowned for the beauty 
and exquisite loveliness of its women. You can find isolated beauties 
in almost any country or clime, but it does seem that certain local- 
ities are peculiarly blessed, and set apart for the development of 
form and feature in its most perfect image. 

" Grace shaped her limbs, and beauty decked her face." 

Well may the devotee of female beauty give utterance to the 
language of Prior as he strolls through the bazaars of this city. In 
symmetry of figure, regularity of feature, elasticity of movement, and 
general attractiveness, they fully merit all that has been said of them, 



300 A TENNESSEAST ABROAD; OR, 

and can vie in my estimation with the most attractive signoras of 
Italy or Spain. Next to a beautiful woman I admire a beautiful 
vessel, and here we have both. Napoleon III., feeling the necessity 
of strengthening the naval arm of his service, in order to cope with 
the old Beldam of the Sea, and the rising greatness of the Model 
Republic, has ordered a number of new screw frigates to be built on 
an improved plan, and every way superior to any war steamer now 
afloat. The vessel that I saw in the harbor at Smyrna is certainly 
the most beautiful and complete craft that my eye ever rested upon, 
and if she succeeds it will bring about an entire change in the pres- 
ent system, and steam will supersede the sailing vessels. a My voice 
is not for war," but it is sometimes inevitable, and the next great 
conflict of nations must be on the seas. The commerce of the 
United States is now spread over the world, our brave mariners can 
be seen in every latitude, and it is almost certain that we must be 
participants in such a struggle. Are we prepared ? Are we able 
with our present navy to protect our ships in foreign seas, or even 
our seaboard cities from the devastations of war ? No, no, no ! 
England, France, and even Russia, outnumber us in their guns, and 
in point of steam power we are far, far behind. Most of our coun- 
trymen do not know or feel the necessity of giving strength to our 
navy, but those who have had the opportunity of investigating this 
matter will tell you that it is of more importance to us at this pres- 
ent moment than all else besides. We have a mighty destiny to 
wort out, an increasing commerce to foster, and an extensive coast 
to protect. With a strong navy we have nothing to fear, but in our 
present condition we are liable to be crippled — nay, ruined. Do not 
understand me as the advocate of an unwieldy and expensive navy, 
for I believe it to be like a large standing army, a curse and drain 
upon the best interests of the country ; but let us have a power on 
the sea equal to our requirements, and capable of sustaining and 
perpetuating the glory and greatness of a nation now moving rapidly 
to the perfection of human government, and the end of man's crea- 
tion. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 301 



LETTER FIFTY-ONE. 

Constantinople. 

Departure from Smyrna — Island of Mitylene — Tenedos — Plains of Troy — The Hellespont — 
The Dardanelles — G-allipoli — The Golden Horn — Pera — View of Constantinople from the 
Tower of Pera. 

At Smyrna we took passage on the Austrian steamer for this re- 
nowned and beautiful city. We had for our companions a large 
number of pilgrims, and a full complement of cabin passengers, 
amongst whom I recognised Lord Henry, of England, whose ac- 
quaintance I formed during the past winter in Egypt. He is a 
young man, about eighteen years of age, well educated, and much 
more agreeable than the generality of English nobility. Coming 
out of the gulf of Smyrna, we had a fine opportunity of seeing the 
city to advantage. The sun was just sinking behind Mount Pagus, 
reflecting its rays on the domes and minarets of the mosques, pre- 
senting to the eye a panorama of extreme loveliness. 

The first place of interest, after clearing the gulf, is the island 
Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos, one of the most important islands in 
the Archipelago, situated in front of the Gulf of Adramiti, and sepa- 
rated from the continent of Asia by a narrow channel varying in 
breadth from seven to twelve miles. The island now possesses but 
few remains of its ancient grandeur, and, like many other places, its 
glory is in the past. Many distinguished individuals were born here, 
among whom were " Theophrastus and Phanias, the two favored 
disciples of Aristotle ;" Pittacus, the Greek sage ; the poet Alcaeus ; 
the musician Phrynis, and Sappho the great poetess. 

Our next stopping place was at the island of Tenedos, opposite to 
which we had a beautiful view of the plains of Troy, so celebrated 
in ancient history. Ida, capped with snow, and the amphitheatre 
of mountains which encircle the valley of Mendire, or ancient Sca- 
mander, are presented prominently in the panorama, giviug beauty 
and romance to a spot more celebrated than any other in the clas- 
sics. Alexander Troas contains many remains of broken columns, 
pedestals, etc. ; and about one mile from the sea are some ruins on 
a very grand scale, called by our captain the palace of Priam. Pass- 
ing Rabbit Island, we entered the Hellespont, the mouth of which 



302 A TENNESSEAST ABROAD; OR, 

is five and a half miles across. It is defended by two castles, built 
by Mohammed IV. in 1659, to secure his fleet from the insults of 
the Venetians, who used to come and attack it in sight of the old 
castles. Proceeding up the channel some distance, we found a Nor- 
wegian brig, loaded with coal, cast the night before on the shore in 
a storm. We attempted to draw her into deep water, but our efforts 
were fruitless. The captain seemed much distressed, and I truly 
sympathized with him ; for being cast away on a foreign shore, 
amonof Turks, is no small matter. Soon after this we landed at the 
Dardanelles, where we had an opportunity of examining the two 
famous castles. The castles of Chanak-kalessi, or Sultanie-kalessi, 
on the Asiatic side, and Chelitbawris, or Kelidbahar, (the lock of the 
sea,) on the European shore, are called by the Turks Bogaz-hissar- 
leiri, and by the Franks the Old Castles of Anatolia and Roumelia. 
We did not have time to go on shore, but we could see the general 
structure of the castles, and the great mortars out of which immense 
balls are shot. The dimensions of one of these balls, as stated by 
Gibbon, are enormous. Napoleon carried one of them to France, 
and it is said that it required the strength of twenty-four men to put 
it in the vessel. 

The town of Chanak-kalessi is the place properly called the Dar- 
danelles, and derives its name from the extensive pottery carried on 
here. While the steamer was at anchor a number of caiques came 
out to us loaded with gilded pottery, for sale. The helmsman of one 
of the boats was the largest human being that I ever saw. He was 
as black as original sin, and so fat that his flesh hung about him in 
immense flakes ; his weight must have been enormous, for the stern 
of the caique was deep in the water, while the bow was high in the air, 
notwithstanding two other men and a large amount of pottery were 
placed in front to counter-balance his surplus rotundity. Just above 
the Castles is the narrow point in the channel where Xerxes' bridges 
are supposed to have been applied. This part of the Dardanelles is 
likewise celebrated as the place where the army of Alexander, under 
Parmenio, crossed from Europe. Here the Ottoman crescent was 
first planted in Europe by Suleiman, son of Orchan, A. D. 1360. 
Here Leander used to swim across to visit Hero. The same feat 
(which has been performed by many since) was accomplished by 
Lord Byron in one hour and ten minutes. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 303 

" If in the month of dark December, 
Leander, who was nightly wont 
(What maid will not the tale remember?) 
To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont ! 

" But since he crossed the rapid tide, 
According to the doubtful story, 
To woo — and — Lord knows what beside, 
And swam for Love, as I for Glory : 

" 'Twere hard to say who fared the best ; 

Sad mortals ! thus the gods still plague you ! 
He lost his labor, I my jest ; 

For he was drowned, and I've the ague." 

So traces of ancient Abydos are visible, except the foundation 
wall of a modern fort of considerable size, which occupies the sum- 
mit of the lofty cliff overhanging the stream. 

The next point of interest was the town of Gallipoli, the Callio- 
polis of ancient geography. It is situated at the mouth of the 
Propontis, in a strait about five miles in breadth, and is forty miles 
from the Isle of Marmora, famous for its quarries of fine marble. 
The town was once fortified, but is now without walls, its only de- 
fence being a square sorry castle, with an old tower, doubtless that 
of Bajazet. It is the see of a Greek Bishop, and was the first town 
that fell into the hands of the Ottomans, being taken by them nearly 
a century before the fall of Constantinople, A. D. 1357. On the 
south side of the city are some tumuli, said to be the sepulchres of 
the ancient Thracian kings, and north of the present town some 
ruins of the ancient city. 

We entered the Golden Horn at night time, and with the rising 
sun of the following morn rose in all its grandeur this magnificent 
city, " the Roman Constantinople, the Thracian Byzantium, the 
Stamboul of the Turks." With eyes riveted on the expanding splen- 
dors, I watched, as they rose out of the bosom of the surrounding 
waters, the pointed minarets, the swelling cupolas, and the innu- 
merable habitations, either stretching along the jagged shore, or 
reflecting their image in the mirror of the deep, or creeping up the 
crested mountain, and tracing their outline in the expanse of the sky. 
Entranced by the magnificent spectacle, I felt as if all the faculties 
of my soul were insufficient fully to embrace its glories. I hardly 



304 A TE1STNESSEAN ABEOAD ; OK, 

retained power to breathe, and almost apprehended that in doing j * 
I might dispel the glorious vision, and find its whole fabric only a 
delusive dream. After indulging for a time in a delightful reverie, 
we were reminded by the agent of the Hotel Europe, that life'was 
not a dream, but a sad reality, requiring bread and meat to sustain 
it. This veritable agent was an Englishman, who had lived some 
time in Boston, and like many of his countrymen, who are initiated 
in the low tricks of Yankeedom, he proved a consummate deceiver. 
He agreed to take the party at eight francs each per day, but took 
care before we left the house to swindle us out of twelve francs per 
day in the way of extras. Well, let him pass ; it is only once in a 
life-time, and if any of us should be sent as Minister to this Court 
hereafter, we will know better how to manage things. Our luggage 
was placed in a caique and rowed to the custom-house, where it was 
opened, but passed without examination. Stamhoul, or Estamboul, 
as it is called by the Turks, occupies the triangular promonotory 
which alone formed the imperial city of Constantine. Its suburbs 
are separated from the main city by the Horn and the Sea of Mar- 
mora, such as Galata, Tophane, and Pera. Our hotel is in the latter, 
which occupies the European shore, and inhabited pincipally by 
Franks. From the lofty Fire Tower of Pera, we had a commanding 
view of all Constantinople, the Golden Horn, and the Bosphorus, 
which I will describe in my feeble way hereafter. 



LETTER FIFTY-TWO. 

Constantinople. 

The Baths — The Bazaars — Dogs — Fires — Slave Market— Palace of the Grand Vizier — Fire 
Tower of Stamboul — Burnt Column — Cisterns of Constantine — Caiqu#s — Bridges — College 
of the Dancing Dervishes — Barracks — Sultan's Palace. 

After our confinement for so many days in the Lazaretto and on 
board the steamer, it was natural for us to think of the luxuries of 
a Turkish bath, and make arrangements to visit one of the numerous 
establishments of this city, about which we hear and read so much. 
Procuring a guide, we directed him to conduct us to the best baths 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 305 

in the city, whereupon he led us to a very large but indifferent 
establishment, which he informed us was the very best in Stamboul. 
It was certainly the most extensive, and the number of bathers much 
greater than we had seen at any other place ; but in point of clean- 
liness and real comfort, I much prefer the baths of Damascus. The 
boys sent to attend us in the baths looked like lepers, and presented 
such a hideous appearance that we refused to let them touch us. A 
great number of Turks were in at the same time, and observing 
Christians undergoing ablution, they seemed somewhat disconcerted, 
and kept up such a whispering and ogling that we were glad to get 
out of the establishment. There are about a hundred and fifty baths 
dispersed through different parts of the city. Some of them are 
constructed of marble, but in general they are extremely common 
and uninviting. They are divided into a number of circular rooms 
lighted from the top by cupolas thickly perforated, and studded 
with small hemispherical glasses. The rooms are large enough to 
accommodate a number of bathers at the same time. The first or 
outer room is always the largest, and a number of Turks may be 
seen there lying on couches, reposing after their ablutions and en- 
joying their favorite luxuries, the pipe and coffee. 

The bazaars of Stamboul are mostly covered, and have more the 
appearance of a row of booths in a fair than a street of shops. They 
are very dark, narrow, and intricate, so much so that it is absolutely 
necessary for the stranger to have a guide. Like all Oriental cities, 
they are severally allotted to particular trades and merchandise. 
Oue bazaar glitters on each side of you with yellow morocco ; you 
turn into another adorned with rich Indian shawls, or cast your eye 
down a long vista lined with muslin draperies or robes of ermines 
and fur. The shops of jewellers and engravers of precious stones 
occupy one quarter ; those of the goldsmiths another. This is the 
great diamond market, and one who has a perfect knowledge of the 
precious stones might make excellent bargains here ; but all Franks 
usually come out of the bazaars most wofully cheated, and uttering 
maledictions upon the head of the Mussulman, who immediately 
repairs to the mosque to pray away his rascality. The Turks inva- 
riably ask a Frank more than double what they expect to get for 
their merchandise, and it is amusing to see them pursue a customer 
after leaving their shops and bring him back by the coat tail to sell 



306 

an article for one third of the original price. Time was when the 
word of a Turk was sacred as a precept of the Koran ; now he can 
no more be relied upon than a Jew or Christian. He has acquired 
a great facility of lying, cheating, and drinking ; and if they continue 
to improve and adopt European customs, we may soon hear of them 
stealing and having but one wife. 

The bazaars are usually so much crowded with women and dogs 
that one is compelled to move very slowly, especially as more cere- 
mony is required than amongst the well-dressed crowd that throng- 
Broadway. Really the dogs may be classed amongst the wonders 
of Constantinople, and are so numerous and noisy as to render them 
intolerable nuisances with any other people except the Turks. They 
are not owned by individuals as in other countries, but govern them- 
selves — each having his own particular district, from which he dare 
not go without being assailed by the police of the invaded territory. 
Their litters are rarely removed, and they constitute the chief scav- 
engers of the city. They are bountifully fed upon the offal from 
the butchers' shops, private houses, carcasses of animals, and trunk- 
less bodies which they occasionally find on the shores. Mosques 
and their inclosures are strictly watched, lest they should be polluted 
by them, and some consider them susceptible of plague. At night 
their howlings are perfectly deafening, particularly when a fire 
breaks out, and their voices are mingled with the passawend crying, 
Yangen var, (there is fire,) from the top of one of the lofty fire tow- 
ers. Constantinople is built principally of frame houses, and in the 
absence of reservoirs, engines, and organized companies, the devour- 
ing element frequently overwhelms in common ruin the property of 
the infidel as well as that of the true believer. If the fire be not 
quickly subdued, all the ministers of state are required to attend, 
and if it threaten extensive ravages the Sultan himself appears and 
gives encouragement to the efforts of the firemen by the power of 
a golden shower of sequins, which never fails to produce the imme- 
diate extinguishment of the desolating flames. 

In the absence of fire, and the barking of dogs, Constantinople is 
the most quiet city at night that I ever visited. By ten o'clock 
every human voice is hushed ; and not a creature is seen in the 
street, except a few watchmen and an occasional wanderer with his 
paper lantern. No stranger ever leaves this city without visiting 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 307 

the Slave Market, because slavery in any form attracts more or less 
the attention of the inquiring and reflecting mind, and more parti- 
cularly in Constantinople, where the beauties of Circassia and the 
regions of the Caucasus are exposed to servitude far more degrad- 
ing than we witness in other countries. But, horrible as this traffic 
is, under any circumstances, to my ideas and feelings, it loses in 
some degree its horrors when confined to the African race. By 
physical formation and power of endurance, by their mental infe- 
riority, and their natural disposition to be governed, instead of to 
govern, we are forced to believe that they were intended by a higher 
power to be hewers of wood and drawers of water until the end of 
time. But the beautiful Circassian, the lovely Georgian, and the 
unfortunate daughters of poor down-trodden Greece, were created 
for higher and nobler purposes. It was with no ordinary degree of 
emotion that I entered the gateway of this celebrated place, where 
so many Christian hearts have trembled ; and before reaching the 
hollow square where they were exposed, I brought to memory all 
the terrible realities that I could remember connected with its his- 
tory ; the tears of beauty, the pangs of brave men, and so down to 
the unsentimental exclamation of Johnson to his new friend Don 

Juan : 

" Yon black eunuch seems to eye us ; 
I wish to God somebody would buy us." 

The bazaar forms a hollow square, with small apartments around 
it, in which the slaves belonging to the different traders are kept. 
A large portico projects in front, under which, and in front of each 
chamber, is a low platform, similar to those in New-Orleans, where 
the merciless slave-dealer sits and dozes over his coffee and pipe. 
In time of war the markets are filled with captives, but even in this 
season of universal peace, the Nubians do not constitute the only 
beings of traffic. The Franks are not permitted at the present day 
to see the white slaves, except by particular favor ; but I have been 
assured by those living here that the custom is still in vogue, and 
that the wealthy Turk repairs as of old to the market with his well- 
filled purse, and agrees with the commissioner, for a stated sum, to 
prostitute the daughters of the most illustrious families of Georgia, 
Circassia, or the provinces. 

From the slave market we visited the Palace of the Grand Vizier, 



308 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD J OR, 

situated near the great Fire Tower of Stamboul. The building is 
quite extensive, on the European j)lan, but presents nothing extra- 
ordinary either in its external or internal appearance. Near the 
palace in Adrianople street still stands the celebrated Burnt Column. 
It is about fifty feet in height, but so much shattered and blackened 
by the frequent fires in the neighborhood, that it is impossible to 
make much out of it. Upon close inspection I discovered that it 
was made of porphyry stones, the jointures hid with copper rings. 
It is thought that Constantine's statue stood on it. By its inscrip- 
tion, it appears that it was erected by the Emperor Manuel Com- 
menes. Not far from this column are the Cisterns of Constantine, 
now called Binderick, or the thousand and one columns, and Yere- 
batan Serai, the subterranean palace, in which a number of half- 
naked pallid wretches are employed in twisting silk by the light of 
torches. Returning to Pera, Ave stopped to examine the caiques on 
the Golden Horn. They are the wherries of Constantinople, and the 
number that ply on the waters is said to be about ninety thousand, 
and are hired like hackney coaches in other cities. They are 
formed of thin plank of beechwood, neatly finished and elaborately 
sculptured. The elegance of their construction, the -extreme light- 
ness of the material out of which they are made, and the dexterity 
of the oarsmen, cause them to skim over the smooth surface of the 
Horn with great swiftness. They have no seats ; the passengers sit 
on rugs in the bottom, and are required to remain perfectly steady 
to prevent being turned over. They are always to be found waiting 
for hire during the day at the points of landing. 

"While crossing the Horn, I examined the bridges that connect 
Stamboul with Pera. They are made of boats placed certain dis- 
tances apart, with locks for vessels to pass through, and are precisely 
the same in form and structure as those on the Rhine, which I 
described minutely in a previous letter. Just above the bridges are 
the ship-yards, and the strength of the Turkish navy, where a num- 
ber of enormous vessels may be seen waiting for war. They are too 
large for service, badly equipped, and fit only to be looked at and 
ridiculed by foreigners. In an action with such powers as France, 
England, or the United States, the Turkish navy would be as no- 
thing ; but to the nations in the region of this city it appears to be 
something grand, magnificent, and terrible. Some of the Turkish 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 309 

vessels would reflect credit upon any country, if their people under- 
stood how to manage them. These vessels were constructed by Amer- 
ican ship-builders, and it is to be regretted that they are so poorly 
manned. From the Horn we ascended the high hill upon which 
Pera is situated to the College of the Dancing Dervishes. The 
room in which they dance is circular, and the floor quite smooth. 
Before entering, we were required to take off our shoes. The chief 
man, or priest, was seated in the Turkish fashion, in a place apart 
from the rest, who were arranged in a circle around the room. The 
head-dress of the priest was of green, the color of the Prophet, and 
the dancers wore a tall brown hat, shaped like a cone, and without 
any brim. Their dress was something like those worn by the ladies • 
in our country, having very full skirts, and made of a dark brown 
material. The dance is nothing more than a monotonous turning 
on their heels, with their arms extended, like children playing. 
They go at it with great earnestness, and continue turning until 
they fall on the floor perfectly exhausted and drunk. 

Leaving the College, we walked through the principal street of 
Pera (which is entirely European) to the Barracks, near the Sultan's 
new palace. Here we saw several thousand soldiers reviewed by the 
principal officer, and I was somewhat surprised to see how well they 
handled the musket. The Sultan has a great many English and 
French officers in his service, who teach his soldiers the tactics of 
modern improvement nearly as well as can be seen among the 
nations of Europe. One thing you may be sure of, and that is the 
courage of the Turks. Fear is not in the Koran, and if they do not 
come out victorious, it must be attributed to some other cause. 

The Sultan's new palace is not yet completed. It is constructed 
of white marble, and promises to be the most magnificent palace of 
modern construction. It is situated on the European shore of the 
Bosphorus, and I will describe it to you more minutely in my next 
letter. 



310 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OE, 



LETTER FIFTY-THREE. 

Constantinople. 
Grand Muster of all Nations — The Seraglio — Column of Theodosius — The Armory — Mosques 
of St. Sophia, Achmedje, and Suleimange — The Hippodrome — Tomb of Sultan Mahmoud 
— The Seven Towers — Cemetery of the Janissaries — Visit to the Sweet Waters— Excur- 
sion on the Bosphorus. 

No one but a follower of the Prophet is allowed to enter the sacred 
precincts of a mosque without a firman from the Sultan ; and to 
render the visit less expensive, the Franks usually assemble in large 
numbers from the various hotels in the city, and proceed under the 
guidance of a cicerone to examine the consecrated retreats of the 
Mussulman, which but a few years since would have been attempted 
only at the peril of a man's life. Agreeably to arrangement, our 
party met at the Hotel Europe — among whoin I observed represen- 
tatives from all the nations that travel, and a majority from the 
United States. We crossed the Golden Horn in caiques to Seraglio 
Point, upon which stands ihe palace formerly occupied by the 
Sultans, but now vacant. The inclosures of this far-famed palace 
occupy the space of the ancient city of Byzantium on the extreme 
point of the east promontory, which stretches towards the continent 
of Asia, and forms the entrance to the Bosphorus. The Seraglio 
(the splendid work of Mohammed II.) is nearly three miles in circuit ; 
it is in a triangular form, of which the longest side faces the city ; 
that on the sea of Marmora the south ; and the other, which forms 
the entrance of the port, the east. The apartments are on the top 
of the hill, and the gardens and conservatories below, extending to 
the sea. Although the compass of it is so great, the outside of the 
palace has nothing curious to boast of; having been built by differ- 
ent sultans, it presents the appearance of a heap of houses cluster- 
ing together without any manner of order. The rooms are well 
furnished in the French style, the baths entirely of white marble, 
and the fountains exceedingly rich. In one room we saw a kind of 
armory in which are deposited specimens of the weapons formerly 
in use among the Turks, and of the strange and gorgeous costumes 
of the various dignitaries and officials of the empire, which are now 
displaced by the unpicturesque and incommodious imitations of 



311 

European costume, which the Sultan has condemned all his em- 
ployees to wear. This collection is extremely rich, and realizes my 
idea of the magnificence of oriental armor. I noticed quite an 
extensive collection of French prints on the walls, representing the 
battles of Napoleon. The gardens and hot-houses are well filled 
with rare flowers, and the view from the Seraglio window is really 
superb. In one of the courts w T e saw the column of Theodosius, 
about fifty feet high, and of the Corinthian order. It is surmounted 
by a capital of verde-antique, and it bears the following inscription, 
" Fortune reduci ob devictos Gothos" Just before leaving the Seraglio 
we were conducted into a small apartment containing the archives 
of the country, and the likenesses of all the sultans on a map. The 
bedstead of Constantine, ornamented with precious stones, was also 
exhibited in a room that contained a large mantel-piece covered all 
over with gems of the largest and rarest quality. 

"We next visited the Armory, situated near the Seraglio, in a build- 
ing formerly occupied by the Greek Church. It contains a very 
large stand of arms, and many curious implements of warfare. 
Adjoining the Armory is a small collection of antiques, some of 
which are very interesting. From this building we repaired to the 
great mosque of Santa Sophia, which is without question the most 
magnificent building in the East. " It is the old Constantinople 
cathedral, dedicated to the Eternal Wisdom, i. e., to the Second 
Divine Person, associated even by Solomon with Jehovah in the 
creation of the world. 1 ' The fate of this illustrious monument of the 
new Greek architecture during the last fifteen hundred years, from 
its first construction down to the present time, is replete with inter- 
est to every one acquainted with the history of Constantinople. 

" The building was completed by Justinian, who drove on Christ- 
mas-eve, in the year 538, with four horses, from the palace above the 
Augustion to the church, slaughtered 1,000 oxen, 1,000 sheep, 600 
deer, 1,000 pigs, 10,000 cocks and hens, and during the three 
hours 30,000 measures of corn were distributed among the poor." 
Accompanied by the patriarch Eutychius, he entered the church, 
and then ran alone from the entrance of the halls to the pulpit, 
where with outstretched arms he cried : " God be praised, ivho hath 
esteemed me worthy to complete such a work. Solomon, I have sur- 
passed thee /" After the distribution of the corn by the magister, 



312 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OR, 

Stategius, three hundred weight of gold was divided among the 
people. St. Sophia is in the form of a Greek cross, of which the 
upper end, where stood the altar, is turned towards the east, the 
lower end towards the west, and the two sides towards the north and 
south. The east side is towards the square of the Seraglio (a part 
of the ancient Augustion). The south side is towards the walls of 
the Seraglio, extending opposite to them. Three of the sides are 
surrounded by vaulted colonnades, covered with cupolas. I was 
somewhat disappointed with the external appearance of this mosque, 
but the interior realized all my expectations. 

From Santa Sophia we visited the mosque of Sultan Achmed, 
which also occupies a part of the Hippodrome, and is not only the 
chief of all the mosques, but it is the only one in the whole Otto- 
man empire which has six minarets, i. e., two more than Aja Sofia, 
the Suieimange, and even the mosque of the sacred house at Mecca. 
The most remarkable feature in this mosque is the four enormous 
columns, whose thickness bears no proportion to their height, and 
each of which is divided into three parts. The circumference of 
each measures thirty-six yards. They support the dome, and rise 
outside at its four sides, like so many small towers. The cupola of 
the great dome is surrounded by four half cupolas, each of which is 
joined by two entirely round cupolas, which form, exactly behind 
the four pillars, the four corners of the mosque, which, therefore, 
appears on the outside to be composed of nine cupolas. The floor 
of the mosque is covered with a magnificent Turkish carpet, and 
Korans of every form, and in the most beautiful writing, lie on 
gilded altars inlaid with mother-of-pearl. None of the mosques is 
so rich in valuables of every kind, which are here partly preserved, 
partly suspended on the wreath of the lamps, and in the mosque 
itself. Its founder, Sultan Achmed the First, one of the most pious 
princes of the Ottoman empire, richly endowed this his favorite 
work, and his example was followed by the nobility. 

The Hippodrome was at one time rich in monuments, but now 
only three remain in the Atmeidan, viz. : The obelisk of granite, or 
Thebaic stone, which was set up a second time by the Emperor 
Theodosius, is a four-cornered pyramid, of one single piece, about 
fifty feet high, terminating in a point, and covered with hieroglyphics, 
now unintelligible. Close to this is another monument with four 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, ASTD ASIA. 313 

faces, built with different pieces of marble ; the top of it has fallen, 
and the rest cannot long continue. This obelisk was covered over 
with brazen plates, as is apparent from the holes made to receive the 
pegs that fastened them to the marble. The plates were certainly 
set off with bas-reliefs and other ornaments, for the inscription at 
the bottom speaks of it as a work altogether marvellous. Between 
the two columns is another brazen column, formed of three serpents, 
turned spirally like a roll of tobacco ; its size diminishes gradually 
from the base as far as the necks of the serpents, and their heads, 
spreading on the sides like a tripod, compose a kind of capital. The 
heads have all been destroyed, and nothing remains of the brazen 
column but the lower parts. It is said to be of the very earliest date, 
supposed to have been brought from Delphi, where it served to bear 
up that famous golden tripod which the Greeks after the battle of 
Platese found in the camp of Mardonius. 

From this interesting spot we went to the mosque of Suleiman 
the Magnificent, one of the most glorious monuments of Ottoman 
architecture, built under the greatest of the Ottoman Sultans, in a 
style of grandeur worthy of the splendor of his reign, by Sinam, in 
1550, finished in 1555. The plan of this mosque is according to its 
divisions exactly the same as that of all the fourteen great mosques, 
and apparently built entirely after the pattern of St, Sophia, but 
with the view to surpass it. As regards the regularity of the plan, 
the perfection of the individual parts, and the harmony of the 
whole, I give preference to this mosque. 

Tired of taking off our shoes, and hearing the Koran read to the 
people, we concluded we had seen enough of mosques, and went to 
the tomb of Sultan Mahmoud and his family, which is built of the 
purest marble, and fitted up in the most extravagant manner. The 
tombs in the interior are covered with black, inlaid with mother-of- 
pearl, on the top of which are a number of cashmere shawls of great 
value. Diamond and pearl work are to be seen in great profusion, 
and the stands containing the Koran are really elegant. 

At the tomb we procured horses and rode to the Seven Towers, 
called Jedi Kouli, an isolated building at the west angle of the city, 
where the walls which cross the promontory connect the sea of 
Marmora. Few things in this city interested me more than my 
walk around the imperial castle, once a state prison, and the same 

14 



314 A TEttNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

which procured for Constantinople the proud name of the "well- 
defended city." Time has laid his ruining hand upon it, and the 
whole fabric is in a state of dilapidation. Three of the towers have 
nearly disappeared, and those remaining are two hundred feet high. 
Passing the Cannon Gate, through which Mohammed II. made his 
triumphant entree into the Christian city, we were conducted to the 
cemetery in which the seventy thousand Janissaries were buried. 
The fatal mark of death by the bowstring is conspicuous on the 
tombs, as a warning to rebels that they cannot elude the vengeance 
of the Porte. 

The following day we procured a caique and rowed up to the 
Sweet Waters, situated at the extreme point of the Golden Horn. 
The place derives its name from a number of springs, whose waters 
are supposed to be sweeter probably than other springs.' In fair 
weather this is one of the most beautiful excursions in the world. 
The Sultan and his harem resort here every Friday, and a great con- 
course of Turkish ladies and gentlemen to meet them. This was 
the only opportunity that we had of seeing the Sultan's pets, and the 
black eunuchs who attended them were so cautious that we only 
caught an occasional glimpse — enough however to convince us that 
we could select a much better harem in the Uuited States, if our 
laws were not so binding on the subject. 

No one leaves Constantinople without making an excursion on 
the Bosphorus to the dark and stormy Euxine. English and Turk- 
ish steamers run in competition, and those living at the various vil- 
lages along the European and Asiatic shores, have every accommo- 
dation, and transact their business in the city with as much facility 
as those living here. To describe the beauties of the Bosphorus to 
a distant reader would be beyond the power of the most gifted. 
Nothing can exceed the beauty of the scenery along its banks. 

" The European with the Asian shore 
Sprinkled with palaces ; the ocean stream, 
Here and there studded with a seventy-four, 
Sophia's cupola with golden gleam ; 
The cypress groves; Olympus high and hoar; 
The twelve isles, and more than I could dream, 
Far less describe, present the very view 
Which charm'd the charming Mary Montagu." 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 315 

Either side is lined with- the magnificent palaces of the various 
Sultans, numerous villages, and country seats of the foreign ambas- 
sadors. We remained one night at Buyukdere to enjoy the scenery 
by moon-light, and partake of an excellent fish supper prepared by 
our esteemed Consul, Mr. Brown. The next morning we visited our 
accomplished Minister, Mr. Marsh, who lives at the beautiful village 
of Terepiee. He is a ripe scholar, well acquainted with the Turkish 
language and history, and every way fitted to represent the interests 
of his country. 

This is my last communication from the capital of the Orient. I 
never expect to see it again as I now see it. In a short time the 
power of the Sultan must give way, the character of his people 
change, and the glory of the Ottoman empire be submerged by the 
Rushing people. 



LETTER FIFTY-FOUR. 

Athens. 
Departure from Constantinople — Island of Syra— The Peirseus — Modern Athens — Ancient 
Ruins and Localities — Excursions — King Otho and the Queen — The Greek Parliament — 
Visit to the Daughters of Marco Bozzaris — Maid of Athens — Mr. Hill and his School — 
Elizabeth of Crete — The Count's Daughter 

Having remained sufficiently long in Constantinople to examine 
and enjoy all its wonders and peculiarities, we embarked on the 
same steamer that brought us, for the island 'of Syr a, touching again 
at Smyrna and Scio. In addition to the party of Americans who 
accompanied us from Syria, we had Mr. Robert J. Morris and lady, 
of Philadelphia, and the widow Atkinson, of Dresden. Mr. Morris 
was our late Charge d' Affaires at Naples, and acquired quite as much 
reputation for diplomacy as his wife for beauty and accomplishment. 
The widow is a woman of extraordinary intelligence, and speaks 
fluently several languages. She travelled alone, and was then en 
route to the Holy Land and Egypt. I gave her some notes on the 
East, which I hope proved of service to her in her lonely wander- 
ings. 

On the morning of the third day we cast anchor in the harbor of 
Syra, which is one of the most important points in Greece. The 



316 A TE^NESSEAN ABROAD; OR 5 

Austrian Lloyd steamers stop there, and passengers from the East 
are required to perform quarantine on the boat for twenty-four 
hours, which is far preferable to being cooped up in a filthy laza- 
retto. With books to read, pleasant company and fine scenery, we 
passed our time delightfully. Syra (anciently called Syros) is a 
flourishing commercial town, and contains a population of fourteen 
thousand. Its prosperity began with the revolution, when refugees 
from all other parts found protection there, and built temporary 
hovels on the sea-shore. It next acquired importance as the stopping 
place of the Austrian and French steamers. Soon after our quaran- 
tine expired, we moved our luggage on a small steamer that runs to 
the Piraeus, and went on shore to get breakfast at one of the hotels. 
Here we met C. L. M. Evangelides, our Consul. He is a Greek who 
received his education at Columbia College, New- York, and is now 
the head of a large and flourishing school. He is an energetic man, 
and seems to have the cause of Greece dearer to his heart than any 
of his fellow-countrymen that I have yet seen. We visited his 
school, were presented to his family, and received with the greatest 
hospitality. Among the pupils we saw a nephew of the celebrated 
Marco Bozzaris, who figured so conspicuously in the late war. The 
little boy is about fourteen years of age, and evidently possesses a 
great deal of character. He had just made his appearance in the 
school after an absence of three days on the island, having fled 
because his teacher punished him for some misconduct. He gave 
me his signature in the English and Greek languages, and wished 
me a safe return to my native land. Mr. Evangelides accompanied 
us through the town, and also to the old fountain at which the 
nymphs of the island assembled in the earliest ages. It exists in its 
original state, and is, as formerly, the rendezvous of love and gal- 
lantry, of gossip and tale- telling.- *«It is near the town, and the most 
limpid water gushes from the rock. The inhabitants preserve a 
tradition, that the pilgrims of old, on their way to Delos, resorted 
hither for purification, and it is still regarded by them with a degree 
of religious veneration. The islands of Andros, Tinos, Delos, and 
Paros, are all situated in sight of Syra. The latter is celebrated for 
the extent and beauty of its marble quarries. The monument just 
completed in the Hotel des Invalides in Paris over the remains of 
the immortal Napoleon, was carried from the island of Paros, and a 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 317 

block is now being prepared for the monument at Washington. 
While in the harbor we visited a war frigate belonging to Greece, 
and commanded by an old veteran of the Revolution. When he 
ascertained that we were Americans, his heart seemed to open 
towards us ; the vessel was exhibited in all its parts, and the birth- 
day of the old man was honored with a heart-felt toast in good 
Samian wine. 

We arrived at Piraeus in the night, and the following morning 
we drove over an excellent turnpike road on the Plain of Attica to 
the Hotel d'Orient in Athens. It is unnecessary for me to describe 
the feeling that agitated my bosom when I entered the gateway of 
this renowned city. They were the same that I experienced when 
I stood upon the summit of the Capitol a-t ancient Rome, and 
when I knelt at the tomb of our Saviour in Jerusalem. I am in 
Athens ! " Athence ! Athence /" Oh ! what a flood of memories 
rush upon the mind at the bare mention of her name ! 

" Son of the morning, rise, approach you here ! 
Come — hut molest not yon defenceless urn ; 
Look on this spot — a nation's sepulchre, 

Ahode of gods, whose shrines no longer burn." 

Modern Athens is a beautiful and flourishing little city, contain- 
ing a population of about thirty thousand, and retaining, in many 
respects, the character of its ancient predecessor. The manners and 
customs of the Greeks have not undergone so great a change as in 
other countries. Their dress and mode of living, as far as they are 
able, correspond pretty much with those of their ancestors. We did 
not come here, however, to see modern improvements, but to gaze 
with our own eyes upon the remains of objects that have attracted 
the admiration of the world for ages. 

Having procured comfortable quarters, we proceeded, with a 
Greek for our guide, down the main street of the modern city in 
the direction of the Acropolis, the great centre of ancient Athens. 
The first antique that attracted our attention was a small circular 
building of marble called the Tower of the Winds, or the water 
clock of Andronicus Cyrrhestes. It was erected to indicate the 
quarter from whence the wind blew, the hour of the day by the sun 
when the weather was clear, and by water when it was cloudy. The 



318 A TENSTESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

farm of the tower is an octagon. Each of the eight sides faces the 
direction of one of the eight winds into which the Athenian compass 
was divided ; and both the name and the ideal form of that wind is 
sculptured on the side which faces its direction. It thus served to 
the winds themselves as a marble mirror. The tower and bas-relief 
figures are nearly perfect. Near the tower on the right is the Gate 
of the Agorie, or new market place, which consists of four fluted 
Doric pillars, supporting a pediment, near which stands Adrian's 
market tariff, as legible, and nearly as perfect as on the day it was 
placed there. Proceeding a little up the hill, we came to a place 
where some men were excavating the dirt from the buried ruins 
supposed to be the place of the Assembly of the Three Hundred. 
Broken columns, large blocks of marble, pieces of statuary, and a 
number of other relics have been found, showing that it was once a 
place of considerable magnitude and importance. Having a permit 
to enter the Acropolis, and being anxious to see its wonders, we 
hurried up the steep ascent, and entered the gate leading to the 
celebrated fortress. The summit of the hill is inclosed by a rude 
wall, forming a circuit of 2,330 yards, and built on the edge of the 
perpendicular rock, which rises one hundred and fifty feet above the 
plain. The upper part of the walls are the works of the Venetians 
and Turks. Some parts are of extreme antiquity, others are generally 
attributed to Cymon and to Themistocles. The area inclosed is 
about fifteen hundred feet in length, while its greatest breadth is 
only five hundred feet. 

The propylaeon first attracted my attention after entering the 
walls. In its present state it offers a front of six marble columns, 
of the Doric order, and two wings with friezes, entablatures, etc. It 
is of considerable depth, with a similar portico on the other or 
inner side. Numerous fragments of statuary, inscriptions, etc., 
are collected here for exhibition. On the right of the flight of steps 
leading into the propylaeon is the little temple of Victory, apteros, 
or without wings. " The history of this temple is curious. It was 
mentioned by Pausanias, and seen by Wheler and Spohn as late as 
1#81, since which period no traveller had been able to discover a 
trace of it. At length, in some works carried on by the present 
government, to clear the approaches of the Acropolis to their proper 
level, a Turkish battery, which stood in front of the propylaeon, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND- ASIA. 3Pt 

was removed, and in doing so, fragments of pillars and other orna- 
mental architectures were discovered in great quantities; and, by and 
by, the floor of an ancient temple, which, of course, was immediately 
recognised as that mentioned by Pausanias." The fragments were 
collected and the temple re-constructed without deviation from the 
original foundations. Four pieces of the frieze are in the British 
Museum. The temple itself consists of the two porticoes, each of 
four fluted Ionic columns, connected by a cella of solid masonry. 
The dimensions are very small, being not above twenty feet long, 
and not so much in height; but the proportions are so pleasing, 
and its situation on the rock, from whence iEgeus is said to have 
thrown himself, is so striking, that it is upon the whole a very beau- 
tiful object, and an admirable introduction to the majesty of the 
Parthenon, one of the first ruins on the most renowned site in the 
known world — hallowed by the noblest recollections that can stim- 
ulate the human heart. 

The site of the Parthenon is the highest point in the city. It is 
also the centre of the Acropolis, as the Acropolis was of Athens. It 
was built during the administration of Pericles, of white marble, 
from Mount Pentelicus. It is not my intention to enter minutely 
into a description of the localities and ruins of this city, because so 
many have preceded me, stored with all necessary knowledge, ripe 
in taste and sound in judgment, who have devoted to them all the 
time and research necessary to convey an accurate idea to distant 
readers, that I feel disposed to take only a cursory view, particularly 
of the ruined temple of Minerva, which is regarded as the noblest 
monument of architectural genius which the world ever saw. It 
consisted of a, cell, surrounded by a peristyle, which had eight Doric 
columns in the fronts, and seventeen in the sides. The columns are 
two feet six inches in diameter, and thirty-four feet in height, stand- 
ing on a pavement elevated several feet from the ground. The 
height of the structure was sixty-five feet. Within the peristyle, at 
both ends, was a range of six columns, five and a half feet in diame- 
ter, forming a vestibule to the door of the cell ; there was an ascent 
of two steps from the peristyle into these vestibules. The cell was 
sixty-two and a half feet broad, and divided into two unequal cham- 
bers, the western of which was forty- three feet long. The ceiling 
of the former was supported by four columns, and that of the latter 



320 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

by fifteen columns. The whole dimensions of the temple were two 
hundred and twenty-eight feet long, and one hundred feet broad. 
" The frieze on the exterior of the cell and its two vestibules repre- 
sented the procession to the Parthenon, on the grand quinquennial 
festival of the Panathenea." The only part of the work now attach- 
ed to the temple, is that above the western vestibule. A great part 
of it is now in the British Museum. " In the frieze of the peristyle 
there were ninety-two metopes, fourteen in each front, and thirty- 
two on each flank of the temple. The whole edifice within and 
without was adorned with the most splendid works of art, by the 
first sculptors in Greece, and Phidias himself wrought the celebra- 
ted statue of the goddess of ivory and gold. The Emperor Hadrian 
beautified and repaired the Parthenon; but in 1687 the roof was 
destroyed by a bomb fired from the Venetian army under Morosini, 
which fell upon a part then used for a powder magazine." 

Near the Parthenon, on the side of the hill facing the modern 
city, stand the ruins of the Erectheum, the temple of Minerva Polias, 
occupying the site of the sacred olive tree, produced by Minerva 
from the earth in her contest with Neptune for the soil of Attica. 
The cella is about ninety feet long, standing from east to west, inter- 
sected at its west end by an irregular transept ; and at each of the 
three extremities thus formed a portico. The southern portico is 
supported by caryatides. The Archaeological Society of Athens have 
restored several parts of the structure. 

On the south-west side of the Acropolis our guide pointed out 
some remains of the theatre of Herodes Atticus, who called it the 
Odeum of Regilla, in honor of his wife. Close to this is the site of 
the theatre of Bacchus, or the Dionysiac theatre. It was built five 
hundred years before Christ, and but little remains to show the form 
or character of the building. The temple of Bacchus, a cavern at 
the summit of the theatre in the rock of the Acropolis, was converted 
by Thasyllus, the victorious choregus, into a small temple, on the 
entablature of which was the statue of Bacchus, which is now in the 
British Museum. It was placed just before two columns formed 
with triangular capitals to support tripods, which still exist. 

The Stadium of Athens was on the south side of the Ilissus, not 
far from the Acropolis. A sloping bank runs parallel with the river, 
and in this slope a semicircular hollow, facing the north, has been 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 321 

scooped out of the soil, at right angles to the river. The shelving- 
margins were once cased with seats of white marble — it is now a 
long and grass-grown hollow, retiring into the hillside. 

Between this and the town we passed under the Arch of Hadrian, 
which stood between the two divisions of the ancient eity. On the 
north-west side of the arch is the inscription, " This is Athens, the 
ancient city of Theseus," and on the south-east side, " This is (the 
Athens) of Hadrian, and not the city of Theseus." That is to say, 
that Hadrianopolis was on the south-east side of the gate, and the 
Thesean city on the north-west side. Between this arch, which is 
quite perfect, and the Ilissus stands the column of the Olympium, 
or Temple of Jupiter Olympus, the largest temple of Athens. It 
was commenced by Pisistratus, 530 years B. C, and completed by 
Hadrian, A. D. 145. All that now remains of this wonderful tem- 
ple are sixteen Corinthian columns, six and a half feet in diameter, 
above sixty feet high, on an artificial platform supported by a wall— 
the remains of which show that the entire circuit must have been 
twenty-three hundred feet. The temple consists of a cell surrounded 
by a peristyle, which had two columns in front and twenty at the 
sides. 

The Lantern of Demosthenes, now surrounded by the houses of 
the modern city, is the only remaining relic of a series of temples 
called the street of Tripods, from the circumstance of these temples 
being surmounted by tripods gained by the Choragi in the neigh- 
boring theatre of Bacchus. It is considered one of the most beauti- 
ful monuments of antiquity, and the capitals are most elegant 
specimens of the Corinthian order, refined by Attic taste. 

The temple of Theseus is the last of the great monuments now 
remaining, but the first which attracted our attention when we first 
entered the city. "It was built thirty years before the Parthenon, 
405 B. C, a few years after the battle of Salamis, by Cymon, son of 
Miltiades." It is a small but exquisite specimen of the Doric order, 
built of Pentelican marble, centuries of exposure to the air giving it 
a yellowish tint, which softens the brilliancy of the white. The 
roof of the cell of the Theseum is modern. It is now used for the 
Museum of Athens, and is filled with statues, fragments, and inscrip- 
tions. Three Englishmen were buried within the temple while the 
Turks had possession of the country. 

14* 



322 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

Not far from the temple is the sloping stone, down which the 
Grecian dames used to slide on their backs as an antidote against 
sterility. The rock is perfectly sleek from constant use, and a num- 
ber of little girls were following the example of their ancestors. 
Near this is the Pnyx, or hill where the meetings of the people were 
held, and where the most important questions of peace or war were 
decided. The remains are upon a platform, on a rocky height, to 
the west of the Museum Hill, and to the south-west of the Areopagus. 
It is fronted with blocks of stone of great size. The stone pulpit, 
called the Bema, is an elevation like an altar, where the orators 
harangued the people. This, with the steps leading to it, and the 
seats beneath it, are hewn out of the solid rock, and are in perfect 
preservation. Its area is more than twelve thousand square yards. 
Between the Pnyx and the Museum Hill is a place hewn out of the 
solid rock, called the tomb of Socrates — now filled with filth. At 
the base of the Museum Hill are four small dungeons, called the 
prisons of Socrates. That in which Socrates is said to have been 
confined, and to have drank the poisonous cup, had its entrance from 
above. A few steps were cut in the rock, whence a ladder was let 
down. 

The Hill of the Museum, where Musseus is said to have sung, and, 
dying of old age, to have been buried, is nearly as high as the Acro- 
polis. It stands south-west of the city. On the summit are the 
ruins of the monument of Philopappus. It is of the Roman architec- 
ture, and much defaced. 

From the Hill of the Museum we ascended the Areopagus, or 
Hill of Mars, so called from the fact that Mars was the first who sat 
in judgment upon it. " Here the Areopagites, distinguished alike 
for their character, rank, and official dignity, sat as judges on a 
rocky hill in the open air, and in the dark, that the judges might 
not be influenced by seeing and knowing the accuser and the 
accused. Here Orestes was tried for matricide, and Socrates for 
theism. Here, too, the Apostle Paul delivered his magnificent ad- 
dress to the Athenian people." 

From the Areopagus we walked out to the olive grove of Aca- 
demia, close below the hill of Colonos, and about half a mile from 
the city. It is still known by the same name as it was in Plato's 
time, and is now a garden of roses — a fit place even for the modern 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 323 

student to repair for repose. A small monument stands on the sum- 
mit of Colonos to the memory of a German who died in Athens. 
From this classic retreat we returned to our hotel, and enjoyed the 
sweet strains of martial music in the public grounds. King Otho 
and the Queen were present, and we had the pleasure of seeing them 
on horseback, their favorite amusement. 

The following day, Messrs. Delano, Sharp, Lynde, Johnstone, and 
myself started for the field of Marathon — an excursion of ten hours. 
We went in a carriage as far as the village of Kevisia, where we had 
horses to meet us. The road to Marathon passes through a hilly, 
barren, and uninteresting country. We approached the broad plain 
from Vrana, where we had an excellent view of Negropont, the sea, 
and the entire plain of Marathon, While gazing on this renowned 
spot, I was strongly reminded of my Greek Professor in the Nash- 
ville University, who endeavored to impress upon the class the dates 
of the two great battles of Marathon and Salami s. Every day the 
question was asked, and we invariably missed. At last we wrote 
them on the wall of the recitation room, where they can be seen, 
probably, to this day. 

I little thought at that time that it would ever be my privilege to 
rove over a country hallowed by so many early associations. But 
here I am, and if Mr. C. should ever ask me again about the field of 
Marathon, I will take as much pleasure in describing it to him, as 
he did in impressing the dates. The mounds where the Persians, 
Athenians, and Miltiades were buried are still plainly visible. Sharp 
and myself had a race from Vrana to the tomb of the Athenians. 
His horse fell just before reaching the mound, and I won the cham- 
pagne. The plain is very extensive, completely hemmed in on all 
sides by mountains, except the ocean side, and beautifully cultivated. 

" The mountains look on Marathon — 

And Marathon looks on the sea; 
And musing there an hour alone, 

I dreamed that Greece^night still be free , 
For standing on the Persians' grave, 
I could not deem myself a slave." 

The same party visited Mount Pentelicus the next day. It is 
situated ten miles from Athens, and is 3,500 feet above the level of 
the sea. The road as far as the base of the mountain is very fine, 



324 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

and even the ascent is good, and not at all difficult. The marble is 
beautifully white, and the principal quarry now worked half-way up 
the mountain. There are several others in different parts, all bear- 
ing marks of the work of the ancient Athenians. There is a grotto 
here, once used for a chapel; the altar and figures of our Saviour 
are still to be seen. The view from Pentelicus is very extensive, 
embracing the field of Marathon, Athens, the Acropolis of Corinth, 
Salamis, ISTegropont, and Parnassus. While we were on the moun- 
tain, a French war steamer was practising in the little harbor where 
the great battle of Salamis was fought. The smoke and fire of the 
guns could be seen distinctly, but we could not hear the report. As 
I stood gazing with my glass at the livid flames issuing from her 
guns, I was forcibly reminded of that celebrated engagement, the 
history of which I used to dwell upon with wonder and admiration 
in my school-boy days. 

Returning to the city very rapidly, we ascended Mount Lycabet- 
tus, situated in the suburbs, and crowned with the small church of 
St. George. It is higher than the Acropolis, and furnishes decidedly 
the best view of the plain, and the peculiarities of the physical form 
which distinguish Athens so remarkably from all other places. 

Having somewhat a taste for politics, I frequently attended the 
sitting of the Greek Parliament. The building is quite plain, but 
sufficiently large and good to answer all purposes. In the lower 
House the walls are filled with the names of those who distinguished 
themselves in the late Revolution. I noticed in the collection the 
names of Lord Byron, Marco Bozzaris, etc. A member occupied the 
tribune when we were there last, who spoke in a strain of eloquence 
that is rarely heard in modern times. He spoke in an ardent and 
enthusiastic manner, reminding me forcibly of the orations of 
Demosthenes and the orators who harangued the Senate when 
Greece was in the zenith of her glory. Most of the members were 
dressed in their national costume, which I admire exceedingly, and 
sat with their fez on in the s#me manner as in the English Parlia- 
ment. The Senate is a very small body, compared with the House, 
and the members are mostly old men who have distinguished them- 
selves in the cause of their country. The people of Greece have 
very little confidence in the honesty of their representatives, and 
seem to regard King Otho as a young man of very little capacity. 



LETTEE3 FROM ETJKOPE, AFKICA, AND ASIA. 325 

While in Athens we were invited to a party at the Piraeus, given 
by the Rev. Dr. Buel, an American missionary, where we met the 
two daughters of the celebrated Marco Bozzaris, and the Maid of 
Athens, now Mrs. Black. The young ladies were dressed in the 
Greek fashion ; conversed fluently in English ; and are every way 
fit representatives of the great Suliote chief. The readers of Byron 
will be shocked to learn that the Maid of Athens united her fortunes 
with an English policeman named Black, and is now the mother of 
a whole host of little Blacks. This is what you might term a step 
from the sublime to the ridiculous ; but when she informed me that 
Byron was in love with her mother and dedicated his poetry to her 
when but a child, it palliated, in some measure, my disappointment, 
and I excused her for propagating the Black race. 

The next day we visited the American missionary school, estab- 
lished by the Rev. Messrs. Hill and Robinson, in 1830. They went 
as the agents of the Episcopal Missionary Society, and have suc- 
ceeded in building up a school that would reflect credit upon any 
country. This is certainly an ever-changing world. Athens was 
once the great centre of learning and the fine arts. Here Socrates 
and Plato and Aristotle taught, and Cicero went to study ; and 
young America is paying back the debt which the world owes to 
the mother of science. From the school-room we repaired to Mr. 
Hill's residence, where we had the pleasure of meeting a number of 
American and English families, several old Greek Senators and their 
daughters, besides a number of strangers from different countries. 
Among the guests was the daughter of a Swedish Count, who mar- 
ried an Athenian woman. This young lady was just sweet sixteen, 
and without exception the most beautiful and fascinating creature 
that my eyes ever rested upon. Her form and features were Grecian, 
with the fair complexion and vivacity of the Swede. She spoke six 
languages with great fluency, and was just making her debut in 
society. I fell desperately in love of course — and what was a little 
strange, my friend Johnstone, of South Carolina, found himself in 
the same interesting situation. I had experienced the feeling before, 
and wondered to myself how I ever became so deeply enamored 
with a creature so different in every respect from the Count's daugh- 
ter. Johnstone, however, seemed so earnest in his attentions that I 
yielded the field to him, and passed most of the evening with the 



326 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

adopted daughter of Mr. Hill, called Elizabeth, of Crete, who is not 
quite so beautiful in person, but in point of intellect and qualities of 
the heart, she has no superior. Hereafter, when I think of the classic 
city, the images of these two bright creatures will come vividly 
before me, and I will long to be once more in Greece. 



LETTER FIFTY-FIVE. 

Corinth. 
Adieu to Athens — Tomb of Themistocles — Islands of Egina, Hydra, and Spezzia — Gulf of 
Nauplia — Fortress of Palamede — Itch Kali — The Lion Monument — Ruins of Tirynthus — 
Ruins of Argos — Ruins of Mycenae — Ruins of Nemea — Corinth — Gulf of Lepanto. 

Agreeably to arrangement, a large party of English and American 
travellers assembled at the Piraeus to embark for the Morea. The 
morning sun was shining most beautifully, shedding a halo of light 
over the marble ruins of the Acropolis, and presenting to the eye a 
picture of rare sublimity. As we moved over the plain of Attica, I 
stood up in the carriage and watched the dear old Athens, with the 
same feelings that agitate the lover's bosom when he bids good-by 
to the idol of his heart. Farewell, mother of Science, farewell ! 
My eyes will never look upon your temples again, but the image of 
the mind will endure for ever. 

Soon after leaving the Piraeus we saw the moleheads to which the 
ancients attached a chain to prevent the entrance of hostile ships, and 
also the remains of the tomb of Themistocles, near the water's edge, 
and in sight of the scene of his glory. The foundations of the wall 
built by Themistocles are still visible. 

About twenty miles from the Piraeus is the beautiful island of 
Egina. We ran close to it, and had a fine view of the remains of 
the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, situated six miles distant from 
the port. 

The next island of importance was that of Hydra. One of the 
Boudouri family was on board, and gave me a very interesting account 
of the history of this island. It is extremely barren, but the inhabi- 
tants by industry and skill in navigation have built up a town at 
once beautiful and flourishing. View it on a summer's evening by 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 327 

moonlight, and it is one of the most magnificent scenes imaginable. 
The white houses hanging in the form of an amphitheatre upon 
a steep mountain, then appear like a mass of snow ; and the lights 
sparkling in the distance from the open windows " show like stars 
of gold on a silver ground." The glorious share that this little island 
has taken in the regeneration of Greece has brought it conspicu- 
ously into notice, and to the latest posterity the brave Hydriotes 
will live the watchword of freedom. 

Passing between the island of Spezzia and the Morea, we entered 
the deep and beautiful gulf of Nauplia to the town of the same 
name. Most of our party remained all night on the steamer ; but 
Johnstone and myself went to a hotel in preference. As soon as our 
luggage was deposited, we took a walk up to the fortress of the 
Palamede, situated on a lofty and precipitous rock, seven hundred 
and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It is inaccessible on all 
sides, except at one point to the east, where it is connected with a 
range of barren, rocky hills, and was surnamed the Gibraltar of 
Greece. The view from the fortress is surpassingly beautiful — 
embracing the plains of Argos, Mycenae, and the distant mountains 
of Sparta. The second fortress, that of Itch Kali, is built on a pen- 
insular rock, rising above the town, at the foot of the Palamede. 
The summit is encompassed by walls, whose foundations are the only 
traces of antiquity in the immediate vicinity. Numerous batteries 
protect it on all sides. The Venetians attempted to make it an 
island, by cutting through the rock and letting the sea flow round 
it, in which they partially succeeded. Nauplia was for a time the 
capital of Greece, and improved rapidly during the stay of the 
Regency, but as soon as the Court was moved to Athens it fell back 
to its original importance. 

Returning to the hotel, (which is without exception the filthiest I 
have ever seen,) I amused myself by smoking an old pipe belonging 
to the landlord, watching the soldiers in the square, and examining 
an engraving of Gen. Jackson, which was given to the father of the 
present proprietor by the captain of one of the vessels sent to Greece 
during Jackson's administration to furnish the revolutionists with 
arms. Oh that we could have passed that night at the Hermitage 
in the fair State of Tennessee, instead of fighting Greek fleas at the 
miserable locanda at Nauplia! 



328 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

Early the next morning our friends who remained on the boat 
came ashore, and we all started together on horseback for the site of 
the city of Argos, now occupied by a village of the same name. 
Just outside the walls o^ Nauplia there is a large lion cut out of the 
solid rock in the hillside, some fifteen or twenty feet from the ground, 
I learned from Mr. Boudouri that it was cut by order of the govern- 
ment to perpetuate the memory of the Germans who fell in the late 
war. About half a mile further, on a slight hill in the plain, are the 
ruins of Tirynthus, or Tiryus, built for Proctus, by the Cydopians, 
architects from Lycia, about the year 13 ?9 B. C. Some of the walls 
of the citadel are nearly perfect, exhibiting the best specimens of 
the military architecture of the heroic ages, being generally twenty- 
five feet thick. Proceeding rapidly over a fine turnpike road, we soon 
reached the village of Argos, seven miles from JSTauplia. As this 
place possesses nothing of interest, I will allude only to the historical 
localities. The Acropolis, anciently called Larissa, occupies the summit 
of a rocky hill, and still preserves, amidst the ruined masonry, some 
remains of antiquity. At the foot of the hill are the remains of the 
theatre. It was very large, and the seats that now remain in a per- 
fect state were cut out of the solid rock in the hillside. Above the 
theatre are the brick remains of a temple of Venus. Some parts of 
the ancient walls of Argos are still to be seen. 

From Argos we turned our course towards the Gulf of Lepanto. 
Before entering the mountain pass, we left the road at the village of 
Krabata, to examine the ruins of MyceDse, once the capital of Aga- 
memnon, built by Perseus 1300 B. C, and destroyed by the Argives, 
after the Persian war, 466 B. C. Near the citadel our guide pointed 
out the Spelia, or Treasury of Athens, commonly called the tomb of 
Agamemnon. The building was constructed under the slope of the 
hill towards the Kema, or ravine of the torrent. It is an immense 
subterranean dome, nearly in a perfect state, and of curious work- 
manship. It consists of two chambers ; the diameter of the dome 
of the first is forty-seven feet six inches, the height fifty feet. The 
inner chamber, which is rudely excavated in the rock with an arch- 
shaped roof, connects with the main apartment by a small door. 
Above the entrance of the door of the first chamber is a triangular 
window, and the entrance itself is roofed by a single slab of stone, 
nine yards long and nearly six wide. An old Greek was sitting 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 329 

down at the door, attending his sheep and goats which were in pos- 
session of the tomb. Crossing a deep ravine, we soon reached the 
walls of M} 7 cense, and entered the capital of Agamemnon through 
the great gate at the north-west end of the town. This gate is the 
most perfect of all the remains. It is approached by a passage fifty 
feet long and thirty wide, formed by two immense walls. The gate 
is ten feet in height, and in the lintel are marks of bolts and hinges, 
and the pavement contains ruts caused by chariot wheels. The 
width of the top of the door is nine and a half feet. It was formed 
of two massive uprights, covered with a third block fifteen feet long, 
four feet wide, and six feet seven inches high in the middle, but 
diminishing at the two ends. Upon the soffit stands a triangular 
block of gray limestone, twelve feet long, ten feet wide, and two feet 
thick, upon the face of which are represented in low relief two lions, 
standing on their hind legs, on each side of a round pillar or altar, 
upon which they rest their fore paws ; the column becomes broader 
towards the top, and is surmounted by a capital, formed of a row of 
circles, inclosed between two parallel fillets. This is the celebrated 
Gate of the Lions. The entire circuit of the citadel still exists, and 
in some places the walls are fifteen or twenty feet high. 

From Mycenae, we passed the ruins of the village of Phytae, 
through a deep glen or pass, guarded by soldiers, to a solitary coun- 
try house, where we stopped and partook of the old Greek's cheer. 
While here we were overtaken by Mr. Wise and family, the English 
Minister at Athens. They were also going to Corinth, and we vol- 
unteered our services to protect the young ladies from the dangers 
of the road. 

Soon after leaving the little hamlet, we descended into a broad 
plain in the centre of which are the ruins of Nemea. The temple 
of Jupiter still retains some of its original appearance. Several 
standing columns and the broken fragments of the rest exhibit the 
plan and style of the temple. The form and decorations are Doric, 
with nearly Ionic proportions. The breadth of the temple was 
sixty-five feet, and the length more than double. At a short distance 
from the temple are other remains of the Doric order. Traces of the 
Nemean Theatre are to be found at the foot of a hill not far distant. 
There is also an old fountain on the side of the hill, and the caves 
supposed to be those of the Nemean Lion. 



330 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

Two hours' ride from Nernea brought us in sight of the Acropolis 
of Corinth and the Gulf of Lepanto. One half hour more, and we 
were seated in a little locanda, about the size of a small log cabin 
in the West. There are but few remains of any thing in Corinth. 
The ruins of two buildings of the Roman town still exhibit, 1st. A 
large mass of brick work on the northern side, probably a part of 
one of the baths built by Hadrian ; 2d. An ampi theatre excavated 
in the rock, on the eastern side of the modern town. Seven Doric 
columns, the remains of ancient Corinth, are still erect in the centre 
of the modern town. The Acre-Corinthus is eighteen hundred feet 
high, and considered the strongest fortification in Greece. The view 
from this point is very extensive and beautiful, embracing the Acro- 
polis at Athens, Mount Parnassus, the entire gulf, besides numerous 
other places renowned in history. 

The morning after our arrival at Corinth, we rode on horseback 
to a little village situated at the head of the gulf, where we joined a 
large party who crossed the isthmus, and embarked in a small Aus- 
trian steamer for Patras. 



LETTER FIFTY-SIX. 

Trieste. 
Voyage from Corinth to Trieste — Patras — The Ionian Islands — Austrian Steamers — City of 
Trieste — Separation from Friends, etc. 

We performed the trip from Corinth to Patras in the night, and the 
first objects that arrested our attention in the morning were the tall 
peaks of Parnassus, St. Andrew's Church, and the town of Misso- 
longhi, where Lord Byron breathed his last. Our captain informed 
us that he would remain in the harbor until the afternoon, which 
gave us an opportunity of going ashore and examining the place. 
Although Patras was the first town that suffered during the Revolu- 
tion, it is now one of the most flourishing cities in the Morea. The 
new streets are wide and regular, running at right angles to each 
other, and several are built with arches. Its present prosperity is 
the result of the cultivation in the neighborhood of the dwarf vine, 
called Uva passa di Corinto, or Currants, which renders the greater 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 331 

part of the plain of Patras the most valuable soil in Europe. The 
church of St. Andrew is held in great veneration, as it is supposed 
to contain the bones of the Apostle, and also the stone which tradi- 
tion connects with his martyrdom. The castle commands a very 
beautiful view of the vast bay, Mount Panachaicum, the distant 
summits of Zante and Cephalonia, Castle of Tornese, Mount Skopo, 
Mountain of Acarmania and Etolia, the Straits of Rhium, etc. 

Soon after leaving Patras, some of our machinery gave way, and 
we were compelled to run to Zante with one wheel. Fortunately 
the sea was perfectly smooth, and we reached the island in safety 
in thirty-six hours. Zante, the ancient Zacynthus, is so celebrated 
for its beauty and fertility, as to be called the "Fior di Levante" 
It is sixty miles in circumference, fifteen miles from Chiarenza, in 
the Morea, and ten miles from Cephalonia. The population amounts 
to forty thousand persons, of whom eighteen thousand reside in the 
city of the same name. The greater part of the island is formed by 
an extensive plain, which produces great quantities of currants. 
The town is the largest and most flourishing of all the Ionian sea- 
ports. Its extreme breadth does not exceed three hundred yards, 
but it extends along the coast for a great distance. Castle Hill, 
which rises precipitously immediately behind the city, is strongly 
fortified. The houses and streets of Zante are very much after the 
fashion of the Italian cities, and some of the churches are very fine. 
When we were there it was Festa day, and most of the citizens were 
in the streets enjoying themselves in various ways. Great quantities 
of mutton were roasted in the same manner as we do at our barbe- 
cues in America, and the people seemed to eat as though they were 
unaccustomed to meat every day. 

At Zante we took the steamer Mahmoud, from Constantinople, 
and ran close to the islands of Cephalonia and Ithaea, and the coast 
of Albania, to the city of Corfu. Here the passengers all went 
ashore in small boats to see the celebrated fortifications. Quite an 
amusing occurrence took place as we were leaving the steamer. A 
German, who is attached to the Austrian Legation at Constanti- 
nople, stepped into our boat with a young girl who, the ladies 
thought, looked rather too fast. Of course -they were very indig- 
nant, and one of the gentlemen of the party undertook to carry out, 
by loud words and threats, what the ladies considered an insult. I 



332 

thought at one time that we would have a general melee in the little 
boat, but the difficulty was adjusted on the quay. Tne German 
apologized, and said he did not know it was a private boat. I 
enjoyed the fun exceedingly, and felt disposed to take sides with 
the German, because he was alone against six Americans. Corfu, 
the ancient Corcyra, is the most considerable of the Ionian islands. 
The Lord High Commissioner and the Parliament of the Ionian 
Islands have their head-quarters there ; and the city, from the 
number of English residents, and the garrison, looks quite English. 
It was really a treat to meet so many that could speak our language 
after more than a year's absence from Great Britain. 

Corfu is beautifully situated near the centre of the island, on the 
shore facing the continent. It is strongly fortified, and has withstood 
many sieges. Being at the mouth of the Adriatic, it gives England, 
in conjunction with Malta and Gibraltar, the entire command of the 
Mediterranean. The bay is completely land-locked, surrounded on 
three sides by the island, and on the other by the mainland, with 
only narrow exits to the north and south, not visible from the harbor 
itself. The high coast of Albania — -the fortifications of the island 
of Vido — the citadel built on two lofty rocks extending into the sea 
— the palace of the Lord High Commissioner — the shady park filled 
with brave Highlanders, clad in their native uniform — and the dis- 
tant mountains of the continent, form a panorama of great beauty, 

Leaving Corfu, we proceeded on our way up the beautiful Adri- 
atic, close to the barren and thinly populated coasts of Albania and 
Dalmatia. The sea was as smooth as a mirror, and the air so balmy 
that we passed our time principally on the deck. The day after 
leaving Corfu was Sabbath, and we had the Episcopal service read 
in the ladies' cabin by an English clergyman. The English, like 
the Catholics, always carry their prayer-books when they travel, 
something that we Americans, particularly the gentlemen, usually 
neglect. 

We entered the small harbor of Trieste early the following morn- 
ing. The captain, in compliment to Mr. Morris, our Charge d' Af- 
faires at Naples, hoisted the United States flag, and we cast anchor 
in the deep waters of* the Austrian bay under the folds of the stars 
and stripes. And here let me bestow a compliment upon Austria 
which she richly deserves, and which all concede, save the English, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 333 

viz. : That her steamers are the best in the Mediterranean, and her 
officers the most meritorious. 

Trieste (Tergeste of the Romans) is the most flourishing city in 
the Austrian dominions. It owes its prosperity to the Emperor 
Charles VI., who, in 1719, made it a free port, and to Maria The- 
resa, who fostered it with her patronage. It has completely sup- 
planted Venice, " the city of the sea," has a population of nearly 
one hundred thousand, and engrosses nearly the entire trade of the 
Adriatic. 

The Corso is the principal business street, and will compare well 
in point of beauty and activity with any street on the continent ; 
and some of the palaces of the rich merchants built in the Venetian 
style are really superb. The inhabitants of Trieste are a motley 
race, derived from all parts of the world. The Italian language is 
principally spoken. 

This is the place of separation from friends with whom I have 
travelled for many months in Africa and Asia. Parting with those 
we regard is always painful. I never say farewell without a pang; 
but that sad word has been used so often, under circumstances far 
more affecting, that I can give it utterance now with comparative 
complacency. Some leave for Italy's sunny clime, some for the 
snow-clad mountains of Switzerland, some for the gay city of Paris, 
and some for the capital of Austria. We have passed many joyous 
days together, in countries replete with every thing calculated to 
awaken the highest attributes of the heart and the mind ; and here- 
after, when I bring to memory the past, my old companions will be 
with me a^ain. 



LETTER FIFTY-SEVEN. 

Vienna. 

Departure from Trieste— Cave of Adelsberg— Gratz— Erzherzog Karl— Vienna Tailor— Aus- 
trian Money — Police Office — Volks-garten. 

After examining the quays, streets, and churches of Trieste, John- 
stone and myself started in the diligence for Laybach, the terminus 
of the Vienna railroad. From the top of the lofty hill just behind 



334: A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

Trieste, we had an excellent view of the city and the Adriatic. It is 
a beautiful prospect, and as we moved slowly up the serpentine road, 
I looked mournfully upon the blue sea, and endeavored in vain to 
extend my vision to the dreamy city of Venice. I love Venice, not 
alone for its historical associations and unique beauty, but because 
some of the happiest moments of my life have been passed in her 
palaces and on her canals. My stay there appears more like a dream 
than a reality, and if the residue of my life could be as the time 
passed in Venice, I would not ask a better future. But away with 
such thoughts — we were in a lumbering diligence on a turnpike 
road, running through a broken and barren country, similar to that 
in the region of the Mammoth Cave in Kentucky. 

About one mile from the village of Adelsberg is the cavern known 
by the name of the Grotto of Adelsberg, which is probably the 
largest subterranean passage in Europe. It is four miles in extent, 
and the formations upon the whole are more interesting than those 
of the Mammoth Cave. The chambers are not so extensive but 
better preserved, having been strictly guarded against the hand of 
the visitor, by the officers of the government. The entrance is in 
the face of a cliff below a ruined castle. Here the river Poik, after 
winding through the plain, sinks into the cave, and may be seen 
about one hundred and eighty yards from .the entrance, by the light 
of the taper, struggling to make its way through the devious pas- 
sages of the deep abyss. Like the Mammoth Cave, you enter a 
small hole closed by an iron gate, leading into a long, low gallery, to 
a vast hall one hundred feet high and more than three hundred feet 
long, called the Dom. This is the only part of the cavern known 
down to 1819, when a laborer working in the cave accidentally 
broke through a screen of stalactite, and discovered that this was 
" but the vestibule of one of the most magnificent of all the temples 
which Nature has built for herself in the region of the night." Rude 
steps cut in the rock lead down one side of this chamber to the 
river, which is crossed by a wooden bridge ; and the opposite side 
is scaled in a like manner. You then pass through a range of 
chambers, varying in size, but by far the most interesting from the 
variety, beautiful purity, and quantity of their stalactites and stalag- 
mites. The singular shapes of some of the formations have given 
rise to various names applied by the guides, according to the like- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 335 

ness which they discover in them to real objects, such as the throne, 
the pulpit, the butcher's shop, the two hearts, the bell, which 
resounds almost like metal, the curtain, a curious mass, about an 
inch thick, spread out in such a manner as to represent perfectly a 
piece of drapery, and beautifully transparent. The last and most 
remarkable chamber is called Mount Calvary, from a collection of 
fallen rocks in the centre, incrusted and partly cemented together by 
stalactitic matter. This chamber is very high, and the formations 
present a singular variety of beauty. On Whit Monday one of the 
chambers is converted into a ball-room, and the peasant lads and 
lasses assemble for miles around, and make the regions of darkness 
re-echo with sounds of mirth and music. 

Eeturning to the village of Adelsberg, we proceeded in the dili- 
gence to Laybach, where we took the railroad for the Emperor's 
City, passing through Gratz and a section of country remarkably 
beautiful and fertile. At the Vienna gate our luggage was searched 
with more than ordinary care, but they failed to discover any con- 
traband articles. We profited by a previous difficulty in Lombardy, 
and pocketed our weapons, which the Austrians seem to have a 
peculiar disposition to find in the possession of Americans. 

We drove to the Erzherzog Karl, (Archduke Charles,) a fashion- 
able hotel situated in the old city near the Cathedral and main 
street Grabbin. This hotel is conducted on a magnificent scale, and 
they charge a magnificent price. So much for being fashionable. 
The first question we asked of the landlord the next morning was 
suggested by the contrast between our dress and that of our neigh- 
bors at the breakfast table. We had been out of the reach of civili- 
zation so long that we had fallen far behind the fashions, and looked 
so rusty that we felt out of place, and hurried, after a hasty meal, to 
a Grabbin tailor, where we selected a wardrobe suitable, as we 
thought, for our purposes. In two days we were comme il faut, and 
felt prepared to meet the gaze of the most fastidious Brummell of 
the Erzherzog Karl. After changing our garb we hardly knew each 
other, and were frequently heard to exclaim, Johnstone, is that you ? 
Yes ! Mac, is that you ? All this however was at the expense of our 
purse, which was well nigh empty when we took leave of the Grab- 
bin tailor. Every thing is extremely dear in Vienna, much more so 
than any place we have visited. They attribute their high prices 



338 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

to the paper currency now circulating in Austria, valued at from 25 
to 30 per cent, less than silver. 

From our tailor's we proceeded to the police office for the purpose 
of procuring permission to reside a stated time in the city, for which 
we paid one florin each. A number of questions of an inquisitorial 
character were put to us, all of which we answered without hesita- 
tion, having no plots or conspiracies against the Emperor of Austria. 
The country has been in a state of siege ever since the troubles in 
1848, and the authorities deem it necessary to preserve the most 
rigid scrutiny over the movements and actions of foreigners. With- 
out permit under the seal of government we would be liable to in- 
carceration at any moment, and the bare mention of jail in Austria 
makes a foreigner tremble in his shoes. 

Being armed and equipped according to the law, we accompanied 
some friends to the Volksgarten, (people's garden,) which is one of 
the most frequented places of summer resort in Vienna. Two bands 
were playing when we entered, and both the best of their kind in 
all Germany. One was the Emperor's military band, and the other 
the band of young Strauss, son of the celebrated composer. I am 
not skilled in music, but somewhat of an amateur, and can safely 
say that these two bands are the best in the world. The Germans 
seem to have a natural fondness for the harmony of sweet sounds, 
and they have attained a perfection in music that no other people 
can arrive at. This place is resorted to principally by females, who 
dress in their best for the purpose of attracting the attention of the 
fast men and strangers. The garden is provided with two handsome 
coffee-houses, and a good restaurant, where you can sip the delight- 
ful beverage and enjoy the sweet strains of music at once. One 
portion is called Paridiesgarten, in which is a building copied with 
slight variations from the Temple of Theseus, at Athens, and con- 
tains Canova's group of Theseus killing a Ctentaur. Napoleon in- 
tended to decorate the arch of the Simplon at Milan with this fine 
piece of sculpture ; but, falling into the hands of the Austrians after 
the wars, it was conveyed hither, and placed in the building con- 
structed for its reception. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 337 



LETTER FIFTY-EIGHT. 

Vienna. 

Vienna within the walls — The Glacis — Cathedral of St. Stephen — Capuchins — Imperial Vault 
— Augustines — Canova's Monument — Imperial Palace — Antiquities — Minerals— ♦Museum 
of Natural History — Imperial Library — Jewel Office — Imperial Regalia — The Emperor's 
Stables — Opera, etc., etc. 

Unlike any other city in Europe, the capital of Austria is divided 
into two distinct parts, called the old and new city. The old is 
strongly fortified with a wall and fosse that forms almost a complete 
circle, and separated from the new by a broad street, and the Glacis, 
which is beautifully ornamented with shade trees, and constitutes 
one of the most delightful promenades about the city. I propose in 
this communication to confine myself exclusively to Vienna within 
the walls, and leave the outside objects for another letter. 

The first place of interest to the stranger is the Cathedral of St. 
Stephen, from the summit of which is furnished an excellent view of 
the suburbs, (which are far more extensive than the city itself,) the 
windings of the Danube, the Prater, and the four battle-fields of Na- 
poleon, \iz. : Lobau, Wagram, Aspern, and Essling. This cathedral 
is regarded by architects as the most perfect specimen of the Gothic 
order in Europe. The tower is particularly beautiful and exquisite in 
its proportions, diminishing gradually from its base to its summit in 
regularly retreating arches and buttresses. Half-way up the tower is 
the station of the Fire Watch for the city. "Each window-sill in this 
apartment has a provision for fastening a telescope, whose movements 
are marked by a stand on which it is placed, upon graduated circles 
placed horizontally and vertically. Kegisters have been constructed 
for each window, so that the telescope having been pointed to any 
object, and the corresponding horizontal and vertical numbers upon 
the graduated scale read off, the name of the object, whether building 
or street, is ascertained by reference to them. Thus the exact spot 
where a fire may break out is ascertained, and the intelligence is 
instantly conveyed to those below by inclosing a ticket inscribed 
with the particulars in a hollow brass ball, which is dropped down a 
pipe leading to the bottom of the tower. Thence it is transmitted 
to the fire-offices." The largest bell in the tower was made of one 
hundred and thirty pieces of cannon taken from the Turks after 

15 



338 A TENNESSEAST ABROAD; OR, 

their repulse from the walls. It weighs three hundred and eighty 
cwt. The roof is very steep, and covered with colored tiles, forming 
a colossal mosaic of the Austrian Eagle. The interior presents 
many beautiful specimens of Gothic architecture, but looks dusky 
and gloomy. At the time we made our visit, a great number of 
people from the country occupied the seats (most of them asleep) 
waiting to be confirmed. They entered the city in processions, with 
a man in front of each body bearing a large cross with a figure of 
our Saviour nailed upon it, and blood trickling from the wounds to 
represent his sufferings. 

From the Cathedral, we went to the Capuchin Church, remark- 
able only for containing the burial vault of the Imperial family. It 
is shown by torchlight, under the guidance of a Capuchin brother. 
I counted about seventy metal coffins, some of which are very mag- 
nificent. Those of Maria Theresa, her husband Francis, and her 
son Joseph II., are the finest. Those placed there recently are per- 
fectly plain. 

The church of the Augustines was next in order. The chief 
ornament of this church is the beautiful monument of the Arch- 
duchess Christina of Saxe Teschen, by Canova, one of his most suc- 
cessful works. In the Todten-Kapelle, on one side of the aisle, are 
the tombs of the Emperor Leopold II. ; of the great Austrian General 
Daun, erected by Maria Theresa ; and of Van Swieten her physician, 
the person to whom Austria is indebted for the present system of 
universal education. In the Loretto Chapel we saw through a glass 
in the iron door the hearts of the Imperial family, preserved in silver 
urns. 

From this gloomy vault we repaired to the abode of the liviug, 
where all the mirth, pomp and parade of poor frail humanity finds 
willing votaries. The Imperial Palace is an ancient building of 
various dates and irregular structure, and is not imposing from its 
architecture, but considerable extent. It consists of three courts, or 
quadrangles. The oldest part dates from the year 1210. In front of 
the palace is a large lawn, and extensive gardens. In the court 
called Josephplatz, formed by the new part of the palace, is a large 
and well executed equestrian statue of the Emperor Joseph II. It 
was erected to his memory by the late Emperor Francis, and is a 
creditable performance of the sculptor Zauner. In an adjoining 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 339 

court called Franzenplatz there is a colossal bronze statue of the 
Emperor Francis, erected by his son. The expression of the venera- 
ble sovereign in the act of blessing his people, with the motto "Amorum 
meum populis meis" is fine, but the drapery is clumsy and the limbs 
are awkward. It is the work of Marchesi of Milan. In the build- 
ings connected with the palace are to be seen the most valuable 
cabinets of Vienna, a brief notice of which may not be uninteresting. 

The Cabinet of Antiquities contains a very extensive collection of 
valuable curiosities, among which are several cameos of great size. 
One is " The Apotheosis of Augustus," an onyx eight and three- 
quarter inches in diameter. It is considered one of the finest in the 
world, and cost twelve thousand ducats. Others of Alexander the 
Great, Rozana, and the head of Tiberius are also remarkable. Here 
also is an agate dish twenty-eight and a half inches in diameter, 
which is so valuable as to have formed part of the dowry of Mary 
of Burgundy, wife of the Emperor Maximilian. Another very curious 
thing is the celebrated salt cellar made for Francis I. by Benvenuto 
Cellini. Twelve thousand Greek vases, and one hundred and thirty- 
four thousand ancient coins and medals, add to the value of this 
collection. 

The Cabinet of Minerals surpasses in many departments every 
other cabinet in Europe, and is well arranged. Amongst the objects 
that attracted my attention particularly was a precious opal, the 
largest known, from Czerwenitza, near Kaschau, weight seventeen 
ounces. Choice specimens of chrysolite, from Greenland; wavellite, 
from Brazil ; Styrian arragonite, and other rare minerals ; also, a 
fine collection of diamond crystals, some splendid specimens of 
emerald, and the most extensive and complete assemblage existing 
of aerolites, or stones which have fallen from the sky in different 
parts of the world. One of the largest, a mass seventy-one pounds 
in weight, fell in 1751, near Agram. Near it I observed, much to 
my surprise, pieces from Davidson and Cocke counties, Tennessee, 
besides various specimens of coal and other valuable minerals from 
our State, contributed by my old Professor Gerard Troost, late of 
Nashville University. We have a larger showing in this cabinet 
than any of our sister States ; and if our citizens would only turn 
their attention to the exhaustless wealth of our mountains, Tennessee 
in a few years would be more desirable than the gold regions of the 



340 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

new El Dorado on the shores of the Pacific. In this collection may- 
be mentioned the large bouquet of precious stones, set in a manner 
to resemble various flowers, and made for Maria Theresa. It is 
extravagantly beautiful. 

The Museum of Natural History, founded by Francis I. and at his 
private expense, is one of the most extensive and interesting collec- 
tions of the kind in Europe. The ornithological department is very 
complete, containing in some instances six or eight specimens of the 
same bird, in order to show the change of plumage from youth to 
old age, and the difference between male and female feathers. 

The Imperial Library contains one of the most valuable collections 
in the world. It owes its origin to the private collection of books 
formed by the Emperor Frederic III., and increased by successive 
contributions of later sovereigns. It contains nearly three hundred 
thousand volumes, and upwards of sixteen thousand MSS. ; also three 
hundred thousand prints, embracing some of the finest specimens of the 
art. Amongst the curiosities may be mentioned a tablet of bronze, 
on which is engraved a Roman Act of Parliament, forbidding 
Bacchanalian ceremonies, dated in the year of Borne 507; the cele- 
brated Tabula Peutingeriana, a map of the Roman empire in the 
fourth century ; Charlemagne's psalm book, MS., in gold letters ; a 
roll of Mexican hieroglyphics, painted on deer skin, and presented 
by Cortez to Charles V. ; fragments of a MS. of Genesis ; silver 
capitals on parchment, besides a great number of other things too 
numerous to mention. 

The Imperial Jewel Office is inferior to several others in Europe, 
yet contains many precious stones and valuable antiques belonging 
to royalty. The regalia of Charlemagne, said to have been taken 
from his grave at Aix-la-Chapelle, and used at the coronation of the 
German emperors for many centuries, consists of a crown ornamented 
with uncut stones, a sceptre, orb, Dalmatic sword, gloves and shoes; 
the crown and sceptre of Rudolph II., the crown, sceptre, and robes 
worn by Napoleon at his coronation in Milan as King of Lombardy, 
constitute the chief attractions of this collection. Among the sacred 
relics I observed the holy spear and nails of the cross ; a tooth of 
John the Baptist ; a piece of the coat of St. John the Evangelist ; 
several links of the chains of Saints Peter, Paul, and John ; a piece 
of the true cross ; a piece of the table-cloth used at the Last Supper, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 341 

etc. Pre-eminent amongst the precious stones I noticed the Floren- 
tine diamond, worn and lost by Charles the Bold, at the battle of 
Granson, and found by a Swiss, who sold it for five florins. It 
weighs 133 carats, and an emerald brought from the Holy Land by 
the Duke of Austria, weighing 2,980 carats. 

Connected with the Royal Palace, are the rooms containing the 
state carriages, royal stables, and riding school. We counted more 
than one hundred carriages, many of which are very ancient. The 
state carriages look very grand and costly, but heavy and uncom- 
fortable. The sleigh in which Maria Theresa used to drive in also is 
exhibited, and a light buggy made in the United States for the 
London Exhibition. The horses kept at the palace are of the Span- 
ish breed, and used exclusively in the riding school, which is a large 
room with galleries, and the floor covered with loose sand. The 
riding-master was present when we entered, dressed in full uniform, 
teaching four young princes how to sit in the saddle, and hold the 
reins. To a man from Tennessee it looked rather ridiculous, and I 
venture the assertion that many of our cotton-headed boys would 
mount the most fiery steed in the stable without saddle or bridle, 
and ride him to death. The grand stable opposite the palace con- 
tains more than six hundred of the best looking horses that I ever 
saw, not excepting the Sultan's at Constantinople, or the Royal 
Mews in England. The building is a perfect palace, finer even than 
the White House at Washington. The troughs are made of 
variegated marble, the racks of iron, and the floor covered with 
plaited straw. This stable is guarded day and night by soldiers, 
and if a horse is taken sick he is immediately attended. 

The Opera , House of this city is a very handsome building, and 
the company well sustained by government patronage. We fre- 
quently saw the young Emperor, his mother, father, and brother, 
occupying the box appropriated for the royal family. They seem 
devoted to amusements, and applaud the performances with as much 
earnestness as those who occupy the pit. 



342 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 



LETTER FIFTY-NINE. 

Vienna. 

The Suburbs of Vienna — Belvidere Palace — Ambras Museum— Litchten stein Picture Gallery 
— Picture Gallery of Prince Eszterhazy — Palace of Luxemburg — Village of Baden — 
Schonbrunn — Beer Halls — The Prater — A Kussian Bear, etc. 

In my last letter, I confined my observations to the objects of in- 
terest in the old part of the city, which is still the most fashionable 
and desirable quarter for the stranger to locate in, because it con- 
tains the best hotels, and all that pertains to royalty. The suburbs, 
however, are far more beautiful and extensive. The streets are wide 
and clean, the houses high and well built, and the stores arranged 
with great taste and beauty. Indeed, I admire the appearance of 
Vienna more than any city in western Europe — not excepting even 
Paris, which Americans generally consider the most beautiful and 
charming spot on the continent. 

The first place we visited in the suburbs, was the Belvidere Pal- 
ace, built by Prince Eugene of Savoy, who resided in it during the 
latter years of his life. There are two buildings, termed the Upper 
and Lower Belvidere. The lower is a very old building, now under- 
going repairs. The Ambras collection of antiquities is in this 
palace, containing a number of antique sculptures, one of the best 
armories in Europe, besides many other curiosities too numerous to 
mention. One very remarkable curiosity in this collection, is an 
immense pair of antlers in the trunk of a large tree, which has grown 
completely around them, so that only the points project. The Upper 
Belvidere is a very extensive and handsome building, situated on a 
hill, and commands a fine view of Vienna and its environs. The 
interior is well furnished, and filled with a choice collection of paint- 
ings, embracing some by Raphael, Vandyck, Rubens, etc. Having 
occupied nearly a day in examining this palace, we concluded our 
programme by going through the Litchtenstein and Esterhazy Gal- 
leries. The former contains about fifteen hundred pictures, among 
which are valuable specimens of almost every school of art, and 
many of the very first excellence. The Esterhazy Gallery contains 
the rarest collection of the Spanish school to be found out of Spain 
— also some beautiful statuary and engravings. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 343 

The following day we visited the Palace of Luxemburg, situated 
about eight miles from Vienna. A beautiful avenue extends from 
the city to the palace, making it a pleasant drive in the heat of 
summer. This palace was the favorite summer retreat of Maria 
Theresa, and, although very plain and unattractive to one who has 
seen nearly all the palaces of Europe, it is yet interesting on account 
of its associations. The grounds are veiy extensive, and beautifully 
laid out, containing running streams, lakes, water-falls, Chinese, Gre- 
cian and Swiss cottages, etc. On an island, in the centre of one of 
the lakes, is an old castle, filled with all manner of curiosities. The 
first room is used for the armory — among which is that of the Em- 
peror Charles V. I tried on his helmet, which is beautifully worked 
in bas-reliefs, representing the siege of Troy. The collection of 
weapons taken from the Turks is also very curious. The second 
room is in the rotunda style, containing the statues of the various 
Emperors of Austria. We were then conducted through a number 
of apartments containing representations of tournaments on stamped 
leather, and painted glass windows, representing the Golden Fleece. 
Connected with this old castle is a dungeon, and place where pris- 
oners were tried. The judges sat in a circular tower, above the 
dungeon, and the poor victim was drawn up on a stick, tied to the 
end of a rope, and nothing but his head allowed to be seen, which 
was drawn through a small hole made for the purpose. Here the 
unfortunate offender was compelled to sit on a small stick, with an 
open dungeon many feet below him, until the cruel judges pro- 
nounced his fate. Thank God, the days when such barbarous prac- 
tices were tolerated have passed away for ever even in Austria, As 
we crossed one of the rustic bridges, our guide gave a whistle, and in 
an instant a thousand fish, of all sizes, rushed towards us, to get the 
bread which they are accustomed to receive from visitors. A little 
farther we were shown the place where they formerly held their 
tournaments. The judge's stand, and lodges for the spectators, are 
also ornamented with frescoes. The interior is covered with loose 
sand, and is used, at the present day, for exhibitions, to gratify the 
taste of royalty. 

From Luxemburg we drove to the pretty little village of Baden, 
celebrated for its warm baths, and a great place of holiday resort 
for the Viennese. After examining the baths, we drove to the beau- 



344: A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

tiful valley of Helen, near by, where we saw the ruins of several old 
castles, and enjoyed some of the loveliest scenery in Austria. On 
our return, we had an excellent dinner at one of the hotels in Baden. 
The table was set in a beautiful arbor of flowers, and the place so 
inviting, that we remained until William, our guide, informed us 
that we would be late in getting into the city. We passed through 
the valley of Bruhl, and the village of Modling, on our return, which 
is remarkable for its enchanting scenery ; and just before entering* 
the city, William pointed out the spinning Cross, about which there 
is a tradition of a lady who sat there until her lover returned from 
the wars. 

The following day we drove to the Palace of Schonbrunn, the 
Emperor's summer residence. It is about two miles from Vienna, 
and was begun as a hunting seat for the Emperor Mathias, by 
Fischer, of Erlach, and finished by Maria Theresa. The interior is 
well furnished, and contains in the collection of paintings the por- 
traits of Maria Theresa and Maria Antoinette. This palace was 
occupied by Napoleon in 1809, when the treaty of Schonbrunn was 
signed there, and his son the Duke of Eeichstadt, who died there at 
the age of twenty-one, in the same apartment in the left wing over- 
looking the garden, and on the same bed, it is said, which his father 
had occupied. The place in the window where Strapps, the German 
student, shot at Napoleon, is shown, and also the grave of the rash 
youth. The gardens behind the palace are very extensive, and 
laid out in straight walks ; long avenues trimmed and clipped like 
hedges, to a length of fifty or sixty feet, in the French style, and 
ornamented with statuary and fountains. The Gloriette, a temple 
with a colonnade of pillars, situated on an eminence back of the 
palace, furnishes an admirable view from its summit of Vienna and 
the surrounding country. There is also a Botanic Garden and Me- 
nagerie connected with the establishment. Just outside of the gar- 
den gate is the beautiful little village of Heitzing, where the Vien- 
nese congregate on Sundays and holidays for amusement. It is 
composed chiefly of villas and country houses, and in the church- 
yard I noticed the monument of Baroness Pillersdorf by Canova. 

At the Casino of Dommeyer, we had an excellent dinner, in a 
room magnificently fitted up, and in which more than a thousand 
persons were dining, and listening to the strains of Strauss's band. 



LETTERS FEOM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 345 

Returning to the city, we stopped at two or three large Beer Halls, 
where the laboring classes assemble to drink beer and smoke pipes. 
It is an amusing scene to watch how they enjoy their favorite bev- 
erage, and to listen to the good-humored remarks and honest jokes 
perpetrated on such occasions. Each establishment has a neat gar- 
den filled with small tables, at which it is not uncommon to see a 
German drink ten or a dozen mugs of beer at a sitting, and smoke 
twice as many pipes of tobacco. After tea we attended one of the 
balls for which Vienna is celebrated, and which certainly repays a 
stranger for going. The women generally are very unattractive, 
but dance and waltz a little faster than any people I ever saw. In 
length of stride I yield to no one, but in waltzing with a German 
woman I proved rather a slow coacher, for in an effort to keep time, 
I lost my balance and drew my partner with me to the floor, much 
to the amusement of the by-standers. Fortunately they took me to 
be a Russian, which palliated the matter somewhat, for I disliked 
the idea of risking the reputation acquired by our countrymen of 
being equal to any thing. 

The next evening we procured an open carriage and drove out 
to the Prater, the Hyde Park of Vienna, only far superior to the 
pride of London. It consists of a series of low and partly wooded 
islands, formed by arms of the Danube, which separate from the 
main trunk to rejoin it lower down. The Prater is very extensive — ■ 
contains a large number of deer — and is the favorite place for walk- 
ing, riding, and driving. On our return we met the Queen driving 
in a beautiful light carriage drawn by four bays in the postillion 
style. 

While in London we did not anticipate visiting Russia, and con- 
sequently did not procure the Russian vise on our passports, which 
rendered it necessary for us to call on the Czar's Ambassador. We 
made him four visits, but failed to accomplish our wishes at last. 
The first time we happened to be three minutes too late. The second 
time we had an interview with the Bear, and he informed us that 
animals of his nature would not recognise Americans unless en- 
dorsed by their Representative. It so happened that our Minister was 
on a tour in Italy, and we had to get a note from his Secretary, 
saying that we were good and peaceable citizens. Thinking that 
we had things right, we made our third visit, and were informed by 

15* 



34:6 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

the Bear that he did not recognise the act of a cub, and would not 
vise our passports without the seal and signature of the Minister 
himself. With our patience nearly exhausted, we hurried to the 
English Legation and procured the endorsement of Victoria's Am- 
bassador, which proved acceptable to the Bear ; after which we 
gave the old fellow a perfect tornado of abuse, and took particular 
pains to inform our Minister how we had been treated by his diplo- 
matic friend. 



LETTER SIXTY. 

Munich. 
Departure from Vienna — Scenery on the Danube — Linz — Peculiarities of Bavaria — Situation 
of Munich — Royal Palace — Hofgarten — Churches — Pinacothek — Glyptothek — Royal Li- 
brary—Public Monuments— Bronze Foundry — Painted Glass Manufactory— Theatre — The 
King and his People. 

From Vienna we took passage on a very good steamer of its kind, 
for the town of Linz, a distance of one hundred and twenty-six 
miles. The current of the Danube is probably the strongest in the 
world, and it requires very powerful machinery to propel a boat, and 
considerable skill to navigate it successfully. The steamers are con- 
structed after the fashion of the old North River boats, and are quite 
comfortable in fair weather, but exceedingly unpleasant at night and 
in foul weather. 

For the first fifty miles we found the scenery rather monotonous, 
the banks being low, and the river filled with small islands and sand- 
bars. The appearance changed above this, and precipitious bluffs 
rise high out of the water, crowned by an old castle or convent, re- 
sembling in many respects that part of the Rhine between Cologne 
and Mayence. The most striking objects that came under our notice 
during the day, were the Benedictine Convent of Gottwick, an 
immense quadrangular building, situated on the summit of a hill 
seven hundred feet high, and presenting a peculiarly fine appearance 
from the river, founded 1072. The castle of Dunenstein, where in 
1192-3 Richard Cceur-de-Lion was imprisoned for fifteen months 
by Leopold of Austria. The castle of Aggstein, an old feudal ruin 
perched on a lofty conical rock. The Convent of Molk, another 
Benedictine monastery, founded A.D. 1707. It is said that during 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 347 

Napoleon's wars in 1808-9, the cellars of this convent supplied his 
army for several days in succession with fifteen thousand gallons of 
wine per day. 

We reached Linz the morning after our departure from Vienna, 
took breakfast at the Archduke Charles, and engaged seats in the 
diligence (or Eilwagen, as the Germans call it) for this city. Having 
several hours of leisure before starting, we strolled to the summit of 
a lofty hill just above the city, which furnishes an excellent view of 
the romantic scenery of that neighborhood. Linz is well situated, 
and contains about twenty-six thousand inhabitants. The diligence 
road runs for some distance along the right bank of the Danube, and 
then passes through Loinbach, situated on the river Inn. Here we 
dined, changed diligences, and had our luggage examined at the 
Bavarian custom-house. The country from Linz to Loinbach is 
very pretty, moderately undulating, and highly cultivated. Riding 
all night in a diligence we found to be no joke, for the next morn- 
ing we were completely worn out, dull and hungry ; so much so, 
that we stopped at a beer-house and ordered a breakfast. Speaking 
of beer-houses, reminds me to mention that Bavaria is essentially 
the land of beer. It is as much the staff of life here, as bread in 
our country. Take their beer from them, and they are done. A 
Bavarian, it is said, will drink from ten to twelve measures per day, 
each holding more than a quart. There are in the kingdom upwards 
of six thousand establishments for brewing, and about one hundred 
millions of gallons made annually. The Bavarians are a peculiar 
people, not only in the quantity of beer they drink, but in their 
manner of living and dressing, particularly among the peasantry. 
The men and women wear high green hats shaped somewhat like a 
cone, with a feather stuck in one side. The men usually have high- 
topped boots, into which they dispose of a part of their corduroy 
pants, and wear a roundabout of the same material, ornamented 
with large flat metal buttons, placed in straight rows. The women 
wear short petticoats, finished off at the bottom with a broad red 
or yellow binding, which contrasts strikingly with their long black 
stockings and high shoes. 

Munich is built on the banks of the Iser, in the midst of a plain, 
neither fertile nor picturesque, and in a situation entirely destitute of 
natural advantages. Previous to the present century it was a place 



348 

of little or no consequence, but by the fostering care of her rulers, its 
population has nearly doubled itself, and the number of fine buildings 
which have risen up on all sides within that period, have scarcely a 
parallel in any other European capital. But like many other towns 
created by political views, royal whim, or ill-judged speculation, it 
does not fill the wide area of its proposed site. The space over 
which the houses are scattered is so thinly peopled, that you can 
almost count every person in the streets. It owes its present promi- 
nent position, as the seat of the fine arts, mainly to the late monarch 
Louis, who spared neither pains nor expense in the accumulation of 
treasures to adorn his capital. The Royal Palace may be divided 
into two parts, called the old and new buildings. The old building, 
though vast in extent, and very fine in its day, has but little to inter- 
est you unless it is the Rich Chapel, dedicated by the Elector Max- 
imilian to the Virgin, and so called from the expenditure of precious 
metals and stones upon it ; its ceiling being of lapis-lazuli, its floor 
of marble and verde-antique, its walls of Florentine mosaic, and the 
altar, with all its appurtenances, as well as the pipes of the organ, of 
solid silver. There is also a Treasury in the old palace, containing 
the regalia and royal jewels ; among them the Palatinate Pearl, 
half white, half black, and a great variety of expensive trinkets, a 
magnificent blue diamond set in the order of the Golden Fleece, 
several pink diamonds, many fine single stones, emeralds and sap- 
phires of great size and value, the complete toilette of Amalia in 
enamel, and another of the Empress Josepha in lapis-lazuli ; also, 
the crowns of the present King and Queen, of Henry II., and the 
Emperor Charles I. 

The new palace is a massive structure, built in imitation of the 
Pitti Palace at Florence, and fitted up in a style now prevalent in 
Germany, which is a revival of the ornaments of the Loggie of the 
Vatican, and the still more ancient houses of Pompeii. The ball- 
room is very large, surrounded by a gallery, and ornamented with 
fine statuary. The floor is made of different colored wood, cut into 
small blocks. The Hall of Beauties and the Throne-room are also 
very superb. The palace contains many rare and beautiful pictures, 
and fronting it is the Hofgarten and English garden, where the citi- 
zens drive, promenade, and listen in the summer afternoons to the 
sweet strains of music. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 349 

Some of the churches of Munich are really superb, but I have 
described so many edifices of this description in my previous letters 
that I will merely mention those that are considered the first. Near 
the centre of the city, on one of the squares, stand the lofty towers 
of the cathedral, (Frauenkirche,) built entirely of brick, and very 
much like the first Presbyterian church in Nashville, in its general 
appearance. The style is heavy, and quite destitute of ornament. 
St. Michael's, or the Jesuits' Church, is built in the modern Italian 
order, and remarkable for its spacious interior, unsupported by pillars. 
The front is adorned with statues of our Saviour, and several dis- 
tinguished characters of Germany. Thorwaldsen's monument of 
Eugene Beauharnois, Duke of Leuchtenberg, is in this church. It 
was erected by his wife, and consists of a full-length statue of the 
Duke, standing in front of the closed door of the tomb, divested of 
all earthly decoration ; his crown and arms lie at his feet ; his left 
hand is on his heart, his light holds a laurel crown, his action thus 
expressing the motto on the tomb : " Honor and Fidelity." The 
Muse of History on his right commemorates his deeds ; on his left 
stand, in an attitude of grief, the Genii of Death and Immortality." 

The church of St. Caijetan is also in the Italian style, and con- 
tains the burial vaults of the royal family. 

The church of St. Lewis (Ludwig Kirche) is really a handsome 
edifice, of the mediaeval Italian or Byzantine order. The walls and 
vaultings of the choir and transepts are adorned with frescoes, de- 
signed by Cornelius, and painted by his pupils, the fruit of the study 
and labor of ten years. These frescoes portray the leading points of 
the Catholic Christian faith, and reflect great credit upon the artist. 
The Basilica of St. Bonifacius exceeds in size and splendor any of 
the churches in Munich, and resembles closely the Church of St. 
Paul outside the walls of Rome. The interior, like St. Louis, is rich 
in frescoes by Hess, and contains some valuable paintings. The 
Parish Church of Maria Hilf, in the suburb Au, is a building of the 
Gothic style, and one of the most chaste and pleasing edifices I ever 
saw, and contains nineteen large windows of modern painted glass, 
representing subjects from the life of the Virgin, and equal in many 
respects to the glass in the ancient cathedrals. It was executed 
under the direction of Hess in the Munich manufactory. 

From the churches of Munich one naturally turns to the galleries 



350 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD * OK, 

of art and science, for which this city is so distinguished ; and first 
of all is the Pinacothek, or Museum of Painting. The building is 
the largest and richest of the kind in Germany, and contains a very 
extensive and rare collection of paintings by the old masters, the 
best of which have been copied on porcelain by the artists of this 
city. This institution also contains a very large number of rare 
engravings, and Greek vases of every variety. Not far from the 
Pinacothek is the Glyptothek, or gallery of sculpture — a chaste and 
classical edifice, of the Ionic order. The front is adorned with the 
statues of Vulcan, Phidias, Pericles, Hadrian, Prometheus, and Dae- 
dalus. In the pediment is Minerva surrounded by artists employed 
in the various branches of sculpture. The decorations of the differ- 
ent rooms are in keeping with their contents. " The walls are sca- 
glioli of the richest colors, the floors are of marble, and the ceilings 
are decorated with fresco and stucco patterns, and with gilding." 
Each apartment is filled with the rarest collection of ancient and 
modern art. The ^Eginetan collection is the most curious, and en- 
tirely devoted to the marbles discovered in the island of JEgina in 
1811. They adorned the two pediments of a temple, said to be 
that of Jupiter Panhellenius, in ^Egina, and represent from the in- 
scriptions certain noble actions of the iEacidse. One group repre- 
sents Hercules and Telamon fighting against Laomedon and the 
Trojans, and the other the contest of the Greeks and Trojans over 
the body of Patroclus, in which Ajax holds a prominent position. 

Immediately in front of this building is another of similar dimen- 
sions of the Corinthian order, designed for the exhibition of works 
of art, but not yet complete. On the Ludwigsstrasse is a magnifi- 
cent new building of great dimensions appropriated for the Eoyal 
Library, which is the largest in the world except the Library of 
Paris. The number of volumes is variously estimated from four to 
five hundred thousand, including MSS. Among the curiosities in 
this vast collection may be mentioned the Codex Alaricianus, or 
Laws given to the Visigoths by Alaric II. in 506 ; the Orations of 
Demosthenes, on paper made of cotton from Chios ; the New Testa- 
ment (Greek) in capital letters, of the 8th century ; Albert Durer's 
Prayer Book ; Luther's Bible, etc. 

Munich abounds in public monuments, some of which compare 
favorably with the first works of art in Europe. In the market 



351 

place of the old town stands a pillar (Marianische- Sanle) erected by 
Maximilian L, as a memorial of the victory acquired by him, in con- 
junction with Ferdinand II., over the Protestant forces of the Elector 
Palatine, near Prague, in 1638. It bears this inscription: "Rem, 
Regem, Regimen, Regionem, Religionem, Conserva Bavaris Virgo 
Maria tuis." The corners are adorned with figures of angels con- 
tending with four monsters — a viper, a basilisk, a lion, and a dragon, 
said to represent pestilence, famine, war, and heresy. 

In the Karolinenplatz stands a bronze obelisk ninety-five feet high, 
erected by Louis I. to the thirty thousand Bavarians who fell in the 
Russian campaign under Napoleon, in 1812-13. 

In the Max-Josephsplatz is a statue in bronze of King Maximilian 
Joseph, by Ranch, of Berlin. It was erected by the citizens of 
Munich, and is one of the finest specimens of the art in Germany. The 
most remarkable monument in bronze, now in Europe or the world, 
is that of Bavaria, in the suburbs of the city, designed by Schwan- 
thaler, executed by Fr. Miller, and the admiration of all who behold 
it. This statue is almost equal in size to the celebrated statue of 
Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the world. It is the figure of 
Victory holding a wreath in one hand, while the other rests on the 
head of a lion. The statue^ is sixty-one and a half feet high, on a 
pedestal twenty-eight and a half feet high, and the head is large 
enough to hold six or eight persons ; a spiral stairway leads to the 
top, and an excellent view can be obtained from a small hole in the 
upper part of the forehead, of the broad plain in front, and the dis- 
tant range of the snow-capped Alps. In the rear of this beautiful 
statue is a small temple of exquisite workmanship, designed as the 
receptacle of statuary. 

On our return to the city, we stopped at the Bronze Foundry of 
Stiglmayer, which is very curious. The process of making such 
work was here explained to us. They had just completed a colossal 
statue of Patrick Henry, ordered by the State of Virginia to adorn 
the Capitol at Richmond. It was modelled by an American artist 
in Rome, and brought here to be cast. The Old Dominion has taken 
the initiative in a step which I hope will be followed by Tennessee 
and the other States of the Union. How appropriate and beautiful 
would it be to have an equestrian statue of Old Hickory to adorn 
the grounds in front of our Capitol, and to fill the niches of the 



352 A TENNESSEAK ABROAD J OR, 

rotunda with marble statues of such men as Grundy, Carroll, and 
Polk, who have served the State on the battle-field, and in our na- 
tional councils, JSTo city in Europe can boast of a more beautiful 
site or magnificent State edifice than the Petra of the west, and no 
State in the Union is better able to carry out the design of its emi- 
nent architect. Every Tennessean should be proud of that noble 
edifice, and our State Representatives in their appropriations ought 
to be directed by no mean spirit, but give with a liberal hand. 

From the Bronze Foundry we visited the Painted Glass Manufac- 
tory, which contains some excellent specimens of this art. The pro- 
cess is tedious and expensive ; the glass having to be heated seven 
times in the furnace, and the most equable temperature preserved, 
without which the work would be destroyed. 

Our last evening in Munich was passed at the theatre, where we 
had an opportunity of seeing the King and many of the most emi- 
nent citizens. In his person the King is small and not very good- 
looking, but he is said to possess talent, and is a great patron of the 
fine arts. The Bavarians, like all other Germans, are devoted to 
music and amusements, and they spare no pains or expense to ren- 
der such places attractive. 



LETTER SIXTY-ONE 

Dresden. 
Railroads of Germany — Leipzig — Arrival at Dresden — Picture G-allery — The Green Vault — 
The Armory — Elbe Bridge — Promenades — Environs, etc. 

At Munich we procured tickets on the railroad as far as Hoff, on 
the Bavarian frontier, where we changed cars for Leipzig. When 
we reached the station at Augsburg the conductor came round to 
see if all the passengers had tickets, and upon examination I dis- 
covered that mine was either lost or taken from me. I could speak 
only a few words of the German language, and no one on the train 
could speak French or English. The bell sounded and the whistle 
blew, and yet no ticket could be produced. At last as a dernier 
ressort I exhibited my passport, showing that it was en regie, upon 
which I was permitted to proceed without my ticket. Now if this 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 353 

had happened in any other country but Germany, I would have been 
compelled to procure another ticket. 

The following day at Nuremberg we were thrown into a car occu- 
pied by a venerable old gentleman and his daughter who spoke 
English fluently, and seemed eager to gain all the information she 
could relative to our country. Being unusually good-looking and 
intelligent, I became at once interested, and used all my endeavors 
to inform her correctly as to our institutions, people, and country. 
We travelled together for three days, and I am indebted to her for a 
fund of information that would have been otherwise lost. 

The railroads of Germany are not so substantial, neither do they 
make as great speed as those of England or France, but they are 
much safer and more comfortable. The cars are divided into four 
classes, and the second class is quite as comfortable as the first in 
England. They make frequent stoppages, and never appear to be 
in a hurry — preferring to run slow and smoke their pipes leisurely, 
to making sixty miles an hour, with a chance of breaking some- 
body's neck. An accident is almost unheard of, and if a passenger 
gets his ankle sprained it creates as much noise as the death of a 
hundred persons in the United States. 

The country between Munich and Leipzig is almost a perfect 
plain, and in many places deeply wooded with forests of low stunted 
pine, a growth peculiar to central Europe. 

At nine o'clock on the second morning after leaving Munich we 
reached Leipzig, a city possessing but few attractions for the general 
tourist. It is the centre of the German book trade ; has one hun- 
dred and twenty depots, fourteen steam presses, and above two hun- 
dred hand presses. Here it was that Napoleon fought one of the 
greatest battles recorded in history. He occupied the King's Hall 
(Konigshaus) while there, in which building died General Field 
Marshal Schwarzenberg. The University of Leipzig is one of the 
oldest and most flourishing in Germany, and is one of the few col- 
leges on the continent which has retainrd its landed estates, most of 
the others having been deprived of their possessions, and now sup- 
ported by annual grants. 

We remained but a short time in Leipzig, being anxious to rejoin 
some friends in Dresden, which is only three hours distant on the 
railroad. 



354 a tenjstesseajst abroad ; or, 

The capital of Saxony is very prettily situated on the Elbe, but 
the city itself is more pleasing at a distance than striking when 
examined in detail ; for it has neither fine streets nor imposing pub- 
lic buildings. It is called the Florence of Germany on account of 
its beautiful situation, and the number of its excellent collections, 
and more particularly its Gallery of Paintings, which is without 
exception the finest north of Italy. Notwithstanding Dresden has 
been the frequent scene of war, devastation, and ruin, her galleries 
and vault of jewels have had the singular fortune to be treated with 
reverence by every hostile hand. Even Frederic the Great and 
Napoleon the Great refused to allow their soldiers to molest the 
works of genius and art. Here are collected with admirable taste 
some of the finest paintings in the world, by the old and modern 
artists. The porcelain collection is particularly fine, and the skill 
attained in painting on this material is truly wonderful. The artist 
first paints his picture on a plate of porcelain, which is then placed 
in a furnace and burnt in thoroughly so as to render it indelible, 
A coat of varnish is then added to it, and the effect is equal, if not 
superior, to a painting on canvas. 

The gem of the gallery is Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto, exe- 
cuted a few years before his death, and equal to any of his works in 
Italy. It is a very large painting, and represents Pope Sixtus, from 
whom it is named, standing on one side gazing with pious awe 
upon the figure of the Virgin, " who is soaring'up to heaven in all 
the majesty with which the Roman Catholic religion has surrounded 
her, bearing in her arms the divine child. The head of the Virgin 
is perhaps nearer the perfection of female beauty and elegance than 
any thing in painting." Opposite the Pope kneels St. Barbara, and 
below the group are two little angels with upturned eyes and coun- 
tenances beaming with innocence and intelligence. This picture 
was purchased from a convent at Piacenza for eight thousand 
pounds. 

Correggio's recumbent Magdalen next attracted our attention as 
a superior work of art. It is a very small painting, but one of the 
sweetest and most faultless pictures in the gallery. The head, neck, 
and arms are beautiful, and the face distinguished for its peculiar 
softness of outline. 

The Vintage, by Rubens, is considered one of his happiest efforts. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 355 

My friend Johnstone and myself fell so much in love with the pic- 
tures just mentioned, that we searched out the most eminent artist 
in Dresden and had them copied on porcelain for the gratification 
of our friends at home. 

From the Picture Gallery, we visited the celebrated Green Vault, 
connected with the Royal Palace. The accumulated treasures of 
ages here to be seen are truly wonderful, surpassing any thing of the 
kind in the world. Here are carvings in ivory and wood of every 
description, mosaics, beautifully cut crystals, precious stones, pearls, 
and jewelry of every description, beautifully arranged and classified 
in glass cases, heavily gilt. To describe things as they appeared to 
us would be impossible, and I will therefore only enumerate those 
that I most admired in the different apartments. 

Room 1st. — Bacchus and his companions on a goat ; a small 
piece of bronze work, excellently made. A ship made entirely of 
ivory. Cabinet covered with amber ; box made of coral, pearl, and 
mosaic. Two silver tubs, four or five feet in circumference, heavily 
gilt. Hunting horn of pure gold, set with gems. The christening 
font of the royal family, very large and made of solid silver. A 
very large onyx cameo. Enamel of the Virgin, the largest existing, 
executed 1703. Pearls resembling the human form in their natural 
state. Golden egg inclosing a diamond ring. A round crystal, 
eight inches in diameter. Also, a beautiful collection of vases and 
pitchers made of crystal ; carvings in wood of the fifteenth and six- 
teenth centuries ; a cherry stone with one hundred faces cut on it ; 
the largest enamel known, a Magdalen by Dinglinger. 

The eighth, or last apartment, surpasses all the others in value 
and beauty. The most curious works here were executed by Ding- 
linger, an artist who is termed the Saxon Benvenuto Cellini. The 
Court of the Great Mogul is a wonderful display of art. It repre- 
sents the Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, surrounded by his 
guards and courtiers in the most appropriate costumes, according to 
the description of Ta vernier, to the number of one hundred and 
thirty-eight figures, all of pure gold enamelled. The variety of char- 
acter and the true expression of each of the figures, deserve the 
minutest inspection. This elaborate trinket, begun in 1701, em 
ployed the artist eight years, and cost $58,400. In this room I also 
noticed a very large specimen of uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by 



356 

Rudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony, and a portion of a mass of 
solid silver from Hirnmedsfurst mine at Freiburg. The Saxon re- 
galia include the Electoral sword borne by the Saxon princes at the 
imperial coronations ; the decorations belonging to a miner's uni- 
form, made for the Elector John George, 1676; a large collection 
of chains, collars, and orders, among which are the garter, golden 
fleece, and Polish Eagle, worn by Saxon princes. Last of all comes 
the glass case filled with the most precious suits of the most costly 
jewels. The first division contains sapphires — the largest of them, 
an ancient specimen, was a gift of Peter the Great ; the second, 
emeralds ; the third, rubies ; the fourth, pearls — one set of native 
Saxon pearls, from the Elster in Voigtland, which are of course in- 
ferior to the Oriental. Among sixty- three rings, there are two 
which belonged to Martin Luther, one a cornelian bearing a rose, 
and in its centre a cross ; the other his enamel seal ring, bearing a 
death's head, and the motto, " Mori ssepe cogita." The fifth divi- 
sion is devoted to diamonds. The diamond decorations of the gala 
dress of the Elector consist of buttons, collar, sword-hilt and scab- 
bard, all of diamonds ; the three brilliants in the epaulette weigh 
nearly fifty carats. But the most remarkable stone of all, which is 
considered unique, is a green brilliant, weighing one hundred and 
sixty grains, forty carats each. The sixth division is also filled with 
diamonds, including the Saxon order of the Rue Garland, and seven 
orders of the Golden Fleece, etc. This wonderful collection of costly 
articles surpasses any thing of the kind in the world. The valuables 
in the Tower of London, about which the English boast so much, 
are nothing in comparison. Satisfied with our day's work, we re- 
turned to the British Hotel, and occupied the evening in discussing 
the wonders of the** Green Vault, 

The following day we visited the Armory, which contains one 
of the finest collections in Europe, and is more extensive than the 
Ambras collection at Vienna, or that in the Tower of London. " It 
contains all the weapons, offensive and defensive, of chivalrous war- 
fare ; all the trappings and accoutrements of the tournament and 
other wild sports of feudal ages. Wealth and skill appear to have 
been exhausted in the materials and decorations of the armor. The 
elaborate workmanship of gold and silver and ivory expended on 
the smaller arms, as the hilts of swords, stocks of guns, bits and 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 357 

stirrups ; the rich damasking of the plate armor and gun barrels, 
and the carving and inlaid work so profusely bestowed, are sufficient 
to excite wonder and admiration." The first room contains speci- 
mens of painted glass of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, many 
articles of old furniture, cabinets, etc., among which I noticed two 
beautifully carved tables, made of a cypress tree of immense diam- 
eter. The work table of the Electress Anne, (1585 ;) a cabinet given 
to Martin Luther, by his friend the Elector John Frederic, contain- 
ing relics of the great reformer ; a great number of ancient drinking 
horns, vessels, goblets, cups for all varieties of potations. Some of 
these articles are upwards of seven hundred years old. The hunt- 
ing horn of Henry IV., King of France, is in this collection ; also, 
the travelling table of Augustus I., inlaid with silver, and containing 
a complete medicine chest, and other conveniences for travelling. 

The second room contains the tilting armor of the fifteenth and 
sixteenth centuries, used by the Electors of Saxony. Two suits of 
armor are made of solid silver, and some intended for small boys 
are very interesting. In the times when these things were used, 
they commenced wearing them very early in life until they became 
grown-up men. The armor of Christian II. is said to have cost 
fourteen thousand dollars. 

The third room is occupied almost entirely with parade arms, 
and armor employed in the tilts and tournaments in the times of 
chivalry. 

The fourth room is filled with arms for use in the field, and not 
for show, being less ponderous and unwieldy than those in the pre- 
ceding apartment. A large part of them have been worn in battle 
by the Saxon princes and other historical characters, and are chro- 
nologically arranged. 

The fifth room contains firearms, from their earliest invention 
down to the present time, showing the gradual improvements that 
have been made. One of the oldest weapons in this collection is a 
rude sort of pistol, supposed to date from the end of the fifteenth 
century, a mere iron barrel eleven and a quarter inches long, with 
a touch-hole in the side. It was fired, not by the flint falling on the 
steel, but by the friction of a file upon a piece of fire stone. The 
file was inserted in a groove by the side of the touch-hole, and was 
then covered with powder, and the fire-stone screwed down tight 



358 

in contact with it. When the file was slightly drawn out, the fric- 
tion served to ignite the powder. The first step after this was the 
pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted tow; then came the 
wheel-lock, with flint and steel. Specimens of the different varie- 
ties are here preserved in perfect order. 

The sixth room is filled with costly stuffs used at the coronations 
and other festivities of Augustus II. and III., Kings of Poland ; trap- 
pings and harness for horses, of the richest materials ; splendidly 
worked bits and stirrups and housings for sledge-horses, on which 
the most elaborate ornaments have been expended. One set of har- 
ness is of gold, splendidly enamelled and set with rubies, another of 
silver set with pearls. 

The seventh room is fitted up with a Turkish tent, taken at the 
siege of Vienna ; and its contents are chiefly Turkish and Eastern 
arms. 

The eighth room contains an ethnographical collection, the gar- 
ments and weapons of various barbarous tribes. 

The ninth and last room contains riding equipments and parade 
trappings. In this apartment we were shown a saddle of red velvet, 
and the boots used by Napoleon at the battle of Dresden, also a 
wax cast of Napoleon's face taken after death. 

From this interesting collection we visited the Elbe bridge, one 
of the finest structures of the kind in Germany. It is built entirely 
of stone, and commands a beautiful view of Dresden and the valley 
of the Elbe. " It was built with funds raised by the sale of dispen- 
sations from the Pope for eating butter and eggs during Lent." 

Like most of the cities of Germany, Dresden abounds in pleasant 
promenades, and its environs are really superb. The Saxon Swit- 
zerland embraces the most romantic scenery in Germany, and is 
considered inferior to none in Europe, save the bold and magnificent 
scenery of the little Republic. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 359 



LETTER SIXTY-TWO. 

Berlin. 

Appearance of Berlin — Unter den Linden — Monuments — Royal Palace — Palace of the 
Prince of Prussia — Museum — Picture Gallery — Egyptian Museum — Theatre — Branden- 
burg Grate — Count Raczynski Gallery — Thiergarten — Bellevue — Consultation with an emi- 
nent Surgeon — Pecuniary Difficulties, etc. 

Six hours' ride on the railroad from Dresden, through a level and 
barren country, brought us to the capital of Prussia, which is sit- 
uated in the midst of a dreary plain of sand, destitute of either 
beauty or fertility. It is surprising that Frederic the Great selected 
such a site, but still more surprising that it should have grown up, 
notwithstanding, into the flourishing metropolis of a great empire. 
Its walls measure twelve miles in circumference, and its population 
exceeds four hundred thousand. Most of the objects calculated to 
interest the stranger are situated in the street named Unter den Lin- 
den, from a double avenue of lime trees, which form a delightful 
promenade in the centre, while on each side of it runs a carriage 
road. It is the Broadway of the city, and the view along it is ter- 
minated by the magnificent Brandenburg gate. Just in front of our 
hotel (Hotel du Nord) is one of the finest bronze equestrian statues 
in Europe, recently erected by the present King in honor of Frederic 
the Great. It stands on a bronze, pedestal, ornamented with bas- 
reliefs, and presents a pleasing effect to the eye. Just beyond this 
statue, in the Lustgarten, is a large and beautiful fountain, and in 
front of the Picture Gallery is an enormous basin twenty-two and a 
half feet in diameter, and cut out of a bowlder found near the city. 
At this point one may stand, and simply by turning on the heel 
view all that is interesting within the walls of Berlin. The Royal 
Palace first claims our attention, not on account of any architectural 
beauty, (for it is nothing but a mass of brick rendered dingy and 
gloomy by the action of time,) but the many historical associations 
connected with it. In the second story of this building, Napoleon 
pronounced his Berlin decrees from the middle window. The best 
furnished and most interesting rooms are those occupied by Frederic 
the Great. The White Hall, recently fitted up at great cost, £120,- 
000, and decorated with the statues of the twelve Brandenburg Elect- 



360 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

ors, and the eight Prussian provinces, is very beautiful, but inferior 
to the ball-room in the Royal Palace of Munich. In the third story 
of this palace is the Kunstkammer, (chamber of art,) soon to be re- 
moved to the New Museum. It contains some curious things, but 
upon the whole, it is a poor affair. The Palace of the Prince of 
Prussia is the finest in Berlin, yet inferior to several others in Ger- 
many. 

The Royal Library is also in the same vicinity ; a large and taste- 
less building containing five hundred thousand volumes and five 
thousand MSS. Among its curiosities are Luther's Hebrew Bible, 
the copy from which he made his translation, with marginal notes 
in his own hand ; the MS. of his translation of the Psalms, with his 
corrections in red ink ; the Bible and prayer-book which Charles 
the First carried to the scaffold, and gave before his death to Bishop 
Juxon, etc. 

The Museum facing the Lustgarten is quite a handsome edifice, 
built on piles, as the spot on which it stands was previously a 
branch of the Spree which has been filled up. At the right side of 
the entrance is a group in bronze, representing the combat of an 
Amazon with a tiger. The walls of the front are adorned with fres- 
coes by Cornelius. The main entrance leads into a beautiful rotunda 
ornamented with statuary and Gobelin tapestry. The lower story is 
filled with statuary, vases, and bronzes, and the upper story is occu- 
pied as the picture gallery. It contains a vast number of paintings, 
of but little value, and to one who is acquainted with the works of 
art in the galleries of Italy, Paris, Munich, or Dresden, it is but a 
poor treat. The new Museum, which is connected with the old 
building, is one of the most beautiful structures in the city. The 
walls and columns are covered over with frescoes in imitation of the 
designs on the great temples of Egypt ; and the rooms are well filled 
with valuable Egyptian antiquities. Near the Museum are the Bar- 
racks and the University building. The number of students in the 
University is said to be fifteen hundred, among whom are several 
young men from the United States. The society of Berlin, like that 
of Boston, is distinguished for the number of its literary characters. 
The most talented men of Germany are here employed either in an 
official capacity, or as professors of the University. 

Before leaving the Lustgarten, I must allude to the Theatre, 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 361 

which is the finest in Germany, and in many respects equal to San 
Carlo at Naples, or the Scala in Milan. The scenes are admirably 
arranged, the boxes richly cushioned and gilded, and the room 
adorned with fine statuary. The King sometimes gives magnificent 
entertainments here in a ball-room connected with the theatre. 

Passing through the avenue of the Linden to its extremity, we 
came to the Brandenburg Gate, built in imitation of the Propylseon 
at Athens. The summit is adorned with a car of Victory, which was 
carried to Paris as a trophy by Napoleon, but recovered after the 
battle of Waterloo. After its return they bestowed upon the goddess 
the eagle and iron cross which she now bears. 

A short distance outside the gate is the palace containing Count 
Raczynski's gallery of pictures, embracing some excellent specimens 
of modern German art ; and at the extremity of the Thiergarten is 
the royal palace of Bellevue, which is exceedingly plain, but con- 
tains a beautiful collection of modern paintings belonging to the 
King, among which may be mentioned : Huss Preaching to the 
Peasants, a large and beautiful picture by Lessing ; Destruction of 
Jerusalem, by Bendermann ; Samson breaking the Pillars of the 
Temple ; the Dying Father bestowing his benediction on his chil- 
dren ; the Rape of Hylas, an excellent piece — the female figures are 
faultless ; Adam and Eve discovering the body of Abel, by Begas, 
very fine. An old soldier with his coat covered with decorations 
acted as our guide. He is said to be very familiar with the King, 
and always offers him snuff, and converses in perfect freedom with 
his Majesty. 

Returning to the city from Bellevue, I called with a young gentle- 
man from Charleston, who is connected with the Medical College, to 
consult an eminent surgeon about one of my fingers that was injured 
in the difficulty on the Nile. After examining it very closely and 
asking me many questions, he looked very wise, and advised me to 
pass the summer at some watering place — saying that it was the 
only remedy he could suggest. At first I thought the man was 
joking, but when I discovered that he was really in earnest, I paid 
his bill, and told him that Americans never went to watering placas 
for a weak finger. 

When we arrived in Berlin we were completely out of money, and 
were much surprised to learn from the bankers on our letters of 

16 



362 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

indication, that no letters had been received for us from London. 
We had no acquaintance in the city, and as a dernier ressort we 
called on our Minister, who kindly vouched for our respectability, 
and relieved us of the anxiety that necessarily attends a man in a 
foreign country with an empty purse. 



LETTER SIXTY-THREE. 

Berlin. 

Excursion to Potsdam— Tomb of Frederic the Great— Palace of the Prince of Prussia — 
Bellevue — Russian Colony — Sans Souci — New Palace — Statue of the late Queen of Prus- 
sia, etc. 

Potsdam may be appropriately termed the Versailles of Prussia, 
being a town of palaces, and the residence of the Prussian princes 
during the rising fortunes of the royal family. It is about one hour's 
ride from Berlin on the railroad, and owes all its beauty and splen- 
dor to Frederic the Great, whose remains now repose beneath the 
pulpit in the Garnison Kirche. His sword, originally laid upon the 
metal sarcophagus, was carried off by Napoleon and lost ; but over 
the tomb and on each side of the pulpit are placed the eagles and 
standards taken from the French by the Prussians. 

A short distance from Potsdam is the palace of the Prince of 
Prussia, lately erected in the Gothic style, and by far the most con- 
venient and beautifully situated palace in Prussia ; and just beyond, 
on a high eminence called Bellevue, the present King is building a 
kind of summer look-out, which will furnish an admirable view of 
Berlin and the surrounding country. In the same vicinity is the 
Marble Palace, so called from the extensive use of marble in its dec- 
orations ; and the Russian Colony, or village, consisting of eleven 
log houses, built entirely after the Russian fashion, and a neat little 
chapel surmounted by three bulk-shaped domes. This village and a 
piece of land was given by the late King to the colony sent here by 
the Emperor. 

A few hundred yards from the Brandenburg Gate are the palace 
and gardens of Sans Souci, the favorite summer retreat of Frederic 



AND ASIA. 363 

the Great. The palace, recently restored and fitted up as a residence 
for the present King, but without altering its original plan, stands 
on the highest terrace, and is a low and unpretending building. At 
the extremities of the terrace are the graves of Frederic's favorite 
dogs, and of his horse that carried him through many of his battles. 
Like Byron, he desired to be buried with his dogs, but neither of 
their wishes were complied with. "This spot was the favorite resort 
of the old warrior ; here he was brought out in his arm-chair, sur- 
rounded by his dogs, a short time before his decease, to bask in the 
sun." u Je serai bientot plus pres de lui" were nearly his last 
words. Within the building we saw his bed-room where he breathed 
his last ; a clock, which he always wound up himself, and which 
stopped at the moment of his death, and still points to the hour of 
his decease, 20 minutes past 2. Our guide also pointed out Vol- 
taire's room, the walls of which are covered with figures, said to be 
epigrams on his character and habits, viz. : a monkey, meant as a 
portrait ; parrots, from his volubility ; stork, from his migrations, 
coming in summer, quitting in winter. 

Just in the rear of the palace is the famous Wind Mill of Sans 
Souci, which still belongs to the descendants of the miller who 
refused to sell it to Frederic, who desired to appropriate its site for 
his garden. Some years ago adverse circumstances compelled the 
owner of the mill to part with it, but the King generously paid off 
his debts and allowed him to retain his property, saying that it be- 
longed to the history of Prussia. 

The gardens of Sans Souci are very extensive, and laid out in the 
French style. A broad avenue runs through them, at the extremity 
of which is the New Palace, a vast brick building, erected at an 
enormous expense by Frederic, by way of bravado, at the end of 
the seven years' war, to convince his enemies that his finances were 
in good condition. This mammoth structure contains upwards of 
seventy apartments ; it was completed in six years, and built on a 
spot previously a morass. The interior is fitted up in the most elab- 
orate and extravagant manner, and the ceiling and walls of the large 
room in the centre of the building are lined completely with shells 
and minerals in very bad taste. 

In the garden of this palace is a small building called the Antique 
Temple, containing a beautiful recumbent statue of Queen Louisa, by 



364 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

Rauch. It is no larger than life, and represents her asleep. The 
features are regular, the figure excellent, and the entire piece su- 
perbly executed. 



LETTEE SIXTY-FOUR. 

St. Petersburg. 
Voyage from Stettin to St. Petersburg — Our Vessel and Passengers — The Gulf of Finland 
— Cronstadt — First View of St. Petersburg— The Neva — New Bridge — English Quay — 
Police Regulations — Our Hotel — Dinner at the U. S. Ambassador's. 

It is just four hours and a half from the capital of Prussia to Stettin 
on the Oder by the railroad. Stettin is a place of some commercial 
importance, and is the point from which the Russian steamers 
embark for this city. The banks of the Oder below Stettin are 
exceedingly low, and the country reminded me very much of the 
region below Londonderry, in Ireland. After getting out of the 
river, we passed between some low and barren islands and the main 
shore, for a great distance before entering the sea. Our vessel was 
a war-steamer, built in Liverpool, and very good, I should think, for 
such purposes, but wholly unsuited to convey passengers between 
such important points, as most of them have to sleep on the floor 
and on the seats in the cabin. There is one improvement in the 
structure of this vessel which I think might be adopted even on our 
river steamers, where accidents are more numerous than on the sea ; 
and this is in the wheel-houses, the tops of which are made in the 
shape of boats, capable of holding eighty persons each, and can be 
unshipped at any moment in case of accident. 

The following morning we descried in the distance the coast of 
Sweden, and met an English steamer bound for London. As no- 
thing of particular interest occurred during the day, I will give a 
brief of our passenger list. The captain and second officer were 
Germans, the crew slaves, or souls, as they are called in Russia. 
Next comes Prince Trubitskoie, of Moscow, a sour-looking individual, 
who had been on a tour of pleasure with his wife and child. The 
Princess is a tall, dark-looking lady, with a very long, but pleasant 
face. The child is perfectly beautiful, but completely spoiled, having 
an English, French, and other attendants. Then comes a jolly old 



AFRICA, AND ASIA. 365 

Commodore of the London Yacht Club, on his way to St. Petersburg, 
to enter his craft in the Eegatta for the prize awarded by the 
Emperor. I recognised him as a brother Mason, and gained con- 
siderable information from him relative to the structure of yachts in 
different countries. Next comes a very nice young Englishman, 
who is one of Victoria's messengers. The Russian Consul at Mar- 
seilles, a large fat personage, with a Greek wife and pretty daugh- 
ter. Two Austrian and two Prussian Generals going to Russia to 
witness the grand annual review of the military, having been invited 
by the Emperor. One of the Austrian Generals was very particular 
in his attentions to a German opera singer, who seemed well inclined. 
Then comes a young Russian nobleman with a French mistress, 
another with a greyhound, and another very fond of champagne. 
But the richest character of all was an old French woman from 
Cologne, who was quite smutty in her conversation, and kept the 
passengers continually in a roar of laughter. One morning she made 
her appearance on deck in her petticoat, and assigned as the reason, 
that the ladies' cabin stunk so badly that she could not go into it, 
and that she would not allow any of the servants to finger her 
things. Most of the passengers spoke English, and all spoke French 
— consequently our voyage was very agreeable. 

On the morning of the third day we entered the Gulf of Finland, 
which is two hundred miles long and very wide. During the day 
we saw one or two towns on the Finland shore, and a number of 
small barren islands ; also numerous sails, mostly of small craft. 

Early the next morning, being the fourth day from Stettin, we 
landed at Cronstadt, where we were boarded by a whole phalanx of 
policemen and searchers of luggage, passports, etc. 

Cronstadt is a strongly fortified place, containing twelve or fifteen 
thousand inhabitants, including the garrison. It is the water-gate 
of St. Petersburg, for here most ships coming from seaward anchor ; 
the smaller vessels run up to the mouth of the Neva, carrying the 
freight and passengers over the shallow bars between the places. 
Here is also the chief station of the Russian fleet, the chief custom- 
house, and the harbor for vessels of war, which will contain about 
thirty ships, and is protected by a mole four hundred and fifty 
fathoms in length from the violence of the waves. After being 
detained here two or three hours, we got on a small steamer which 



366 A TENKESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

landed us safely at the examination office on the English quay. On the 
right shore of the gulf from Cronstadt we saw the town of Oranien- 
baum, and a little further on, the gilded towers and park of Peter- 
hoff, which are situated on a slight acclivity ; but after they are 
passed the banks again become low, and present from a distance the 
only feature of the Finnish shores, interminable flats. At length a 
golden spot, sparkling in the sunshine, and of dazzling splendor, 
together with a tall and taper spire, shooting like a needle to the 
sky, and rising apparently from the water, are seen, and these are 
the first indications that prove that the great city founded by Peter 
the Great is near at hand. This golden spot is the gilded dome of 
the Isak Church, which may, in fair weather, be seen from Cron- 
stadt, a distance of sixteen miles. The spire is that of the Admiralty. 
Aside from these two objects, the approach to St. Petersburg is any- 
thing but prepossessing, being situated on a number of low islands, 
formed by the winding of the Neva, and built up on the side next 
to the sea with indifferent-looking houses. But when we reached 
the English quay the appearance of things began to improve, and 
the wonders of the European city opened upon our eyes. We 
landed near the new bridge, one of the greatest monuments of the 
city, and one of the finest structures in Europe. It was built by 
Americans ; has seven stone arches, with an iron-railing of great 
beauty. The contractors lost $80,000 by the contract, but like 
honest men they completed the work in good faith. We were 
required to pass through a line of policemen into the examination 
office, where we were detained more than two hours. The examina- 
tion was more searching than we ever underwent before in other 
countries. They turned my little trunk upside down, and took all 
my books, even my Bible, away from me ; then we were required to 
sign our names in several books before we were allowed to depart. 
Leaving this vexatious place, we endeavored to procure lodging's at 
Miss Benson's, an English boarding-house, but she was full, and we 
had to go to the Hotel Russe, or Klaie, where we succeeded in get- 
ting tolerable rooms. 

The day after we arrived in this city we dined with Gov. Brown, 
our Ambassador, from Tennessee, and his Secretary, Mr. Wright, of 
New-Jersey. They live together in a well-furnished suite of rooms 
in the vicinity of the Winter Palace, and not far from the Newski 



367 

Perspective, the Broadway of St. Petersburg. We were received at 
the Legation, not by a Frenchman in kids or a Russian in furs, but 
by one of Afric's sons, who exhibited his ivory so invitingly and 
shook our hands so cordially that we almost forgot that we were in 
Petersburg, and imagined that we were entering the mansion of a 
Southern planter. In a few minutes after we arrived dinner was 
announced, and we had hardly taken our seats when the sweet 
strains of music greeted our ears from the court. The dinner could 
not have been better, and I must say that we passed the most agree- 
able evening here that we have spent in Europe. The Minister is a 
man full of the milk of human kindness ; agreeable in conversation, 
and fully alive to the interests of his country. His Secretary is an 
accomplished gentleman, possessing all those high traits of character 
calculated to captivate in society or shine in official station. These 
gentlemen will ever have our best wishes ; and if they should devote 
their lives to foreign missions, may they in future get into a more 
comfortable berth. 



LETTER SIXTY-FIVE. 

St. Petersburg. 
Passport System — The Newski Perspective — Churches — Peter's Log Cabin — Corps des 
Mines — Admiralty — Palaces — Monuments — Excursion to Peterhoff— The Neva — Pick- 
pockets. 

Ik my last letter I made allusion to the difficulties we encountered 
with the police when we landed in this city ; but that was hardly a 
beginning to what we were afterwards subjected to. To save time 
we engaged the services of a well-known commissionaire, named 
Craft, to assist us in getting our passports properly arranged. After 
waiting impatiently at the police office for about two hours, we were 
ushered into the presence of a number of very dignified-looking 
men, dressed in full uniform, who eyed us from top to toe, asked 
various questions of an inquisitorial character, and required our sig- 
natures on several different sheets of paper. We were then marched 
off to another police office about four versts in the opposite direction, 
where we were again questioned and required to sign papers. After 
this operation was gone through with, they returned our old pass- 



368 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OK, 

port and furnished us with a Russian passport to go to Moscow, for 
which we paid two rubles and fifty kopeks. During our absence at 
Moscow, Craft had our names published three successive days in the 
Police Paper, announcing our intention to leave Russia at a certain 
time. When we arrive at Moscow another passport will be required 
to allow us to r-eturn to St. Petersburg, for which we pay three 
rubles more, and when we leave Russia we are required to have still 
another passport for Sweden. Oh, what a country to an American 
accustomed to live, move, and act freely ! It is utter martyrdom. 
I would not be compelled to live under such a government for the 
mineral wealth of Siberia. 

From the police office we drove in a drosky down the Newski 
Perspective, one of the most magnificent thoroughfares in the world. 
Here all is life and movement, and no ten yards of ground are 
passed that do not present a scene or subject that will arrest the 
attention of the stranger. It is four versts (three miles) in extent, 
very wide, with a gutter in the centre, and paved with blocks of 
pine wood in some places, and stones variously placed in others. 
The buildings on this street are lofty and fine, the shops well fur- 
nished, and the signs of enormous size, covered with paintings repre- 
senting the articles sold within. Many splendid equipages are to be 
seen here, besides innumerable droskies (peculiar to Russia) driven 
with Jehu speed, and the driver crying out u Padi, padi" — make 
way, make way. The drosky is the most curious vehicle I have yet 
seen, and as we rode in them very often, a sort of description will 
not be out of place. It is on four low wheels, with a long cushioned 
seat running lengthwise, on which the rider sits astride, as on horse- 
back, and the passengers likewise if they choose, but they usually 
sit sideways and have no support for the back. It is drawn generally 
by two horses, one in shafts with a high arched bow over the neck, 
called the douga, and the other called le furiens, in traces alongside 
— this last being trained to curve his neck and canter while the shaft 
horse trots. The horses are small, but well formed, and move along 
with great spirit and rapidity. The drosky is the Emperor's favorite 
vehicle, and when the weather is pleasant he may be seen almost any 
day driving unattended through the streets. 

St. Petersburg abounds in churches, nearly all of which are used 
by the followers of the Greek faith, multitudes of whom may be seen 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 369 

at all hours of the day, kneeling at the shrines of the different saints. 
The most conspicuous edifice for public worship is the Isak Church, 
the finest structure in Russia, and inferior only to St. Peter's at 
Rome, and the Cathedral at Milan. The immense dome that sur- 
mounts the building is covered with pure gold, and the interior is 
elegantly adorned with malachite columns and other precious stones 
from Finland and Siberia. 

Crossing the Neva over the Isak bridge, we visited the church of 
St. Peter and St. Paul, which is situated in the citadel, and con- 
spicuous for its beautiful and slender gilt spire, similar and hardly 
inferior in height to that of the Admiralty. Aside from the spire, 
there is nothing attractive about the church, except its being the 
resting place of Peter the Great and his imperial successors. The 
preceding sovereigns of Russia were buried in the Arkhangelskoi 
Sabor in Moscow. Whoever has seen the monuments of the French, 
Austrian, and Italian sovereigns, will wonder at the simplicity and 
absence of ornament in this final abode of the Russian Emperors. 
The simple coffins are placed in the vaults, and over them in the 
church is nothing further in the shape of a monument than a stone 
coffin-shaped sarcophagus, covered with a simple pall. The names 
of the deceased are embroidered in letters of gold. On the tomb of 
the Grand Duke Constantine lie the keys of some Polish fortresses. 
Peter III., to whose remains Catherine refused interment in this 
place of sepulture, rests there now. Paul placed both Catherine's and 
his father's there. A hundred cannon, impregnable bastions, and a 
garrison of three thousand men defend the place, which can be dese- 
crated by hostile hands only when St. Petersburg lies in ruins. The 
Russian princes are the only ones in Europe buried in a fortress. 

From this church we drove to the humble little cabin of Peter 
the Great, situated on the upper end of the same island. It was 
built of round logs, pretty much in the western style, one story high, 
and divided into three apartments. The inner room was his bed- 
chamber, the adjoining one his chapel, where the pictures he 
worshipped are still preserved, and the third apartment was used for 
his reception room. Here are preserved numerous relics belonging 
to that remarkable man. The boat which he is said to have con- 
structed, and the sails he used, are also shown. The Emperor Alex- 
ander, to preserve the cabin, had it covered with a casing which 

16* 



370 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OK, 

gives it the appearance of a neat frame cottage. It was here that 
the present great city was first commenced. A number of lights 
were burning in the chapel when we entered, and devotees to the 
shrine were constantly kneeling. 

We next visited the Corps des Mines, one of the most remarkable 
establishments in the capital. The building is grand and imposing 
from the river, but when you approach it the effect of a severe 
climate is plainly marked upon its walls. Like many other institu- 
tions, it was founded by Peter the Great, for the purpose of training 
and forming a corps of mining engineers, who would be able to ex- 
plore and work the mines of Siberia and other mineral countries 
belonging to the vast possessions of Russia. It is not in order at 
present, having been taken to pieces for the purpose of making some 
improvement. The Museum attached to this establishment is one 
of the best arranged and most valuable in Europe. Among the 
many curious and precious things I will merely mention a few, viz. : 
Seventy-three crystals of emeralds, each crystal measuring from an 
inch to an inch and a half in length ; a block of malachite weighing 
four thousand pounds, and valued at £318,478 ; a piece of native 
platina, weighing ten and a half pounds, and valued at £1,434 ; 
also, seven hundred and fifty pieces of native gold, one piece weigh- 
ing eighty pounds, another piece eight inches in length and five 
broad, and valued at £26,236 ; a single crystal of beryl, weighing 
about six pounds, is considered the finest known specimen, and 
valued at £6,521. Besides numerous other mineral specimens, I 
noticed a great number of plans for mining machines, and among 
them one for sifting, and one for crushing gold. The collection of 
swords and other articles of steel manufactured in Siberia are very 
beautiful, and far superior to any thing I thought them capable of 
making. 

Eecrossing the Neva, we went to the Admiralty, situated on the 
great square of the city, from which diverge all the principal streets. 
From the spire of this building we had an admirable view of the 
city, and the windings of the river. St. Petersburg, as I before 
remarked, is badly situated, and covers an immense space. The city 
is too large for its population, and the fine wide streets present a 
desolate appearance from this lofty eminence. 

After satisfying ourselves with viewing the vast expanse covered 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 371 

with palaces and stately buildings, we descended into the great 
square and examined the monuments so celebrated for their beauty. 
In front of the Senate House, and facing the Neva, is the equestrian 
statue of Peter the Great, the finest work of its kind in the world. 
It stands on a huge block of uncut granite from Finland ; the Em- 
peror's face is turned towards the Neva, his hand outstretched as if 
he would grasp land and water, and under the feet of the horse an 
enormous serpent is uncoiled with its head attached to the horse's 
tail to sustain the equilibrium. 

In an open space between the Etat Major and the Winter Palace 
stands the greatest monolith of modern times — the column erected 
to the memory of the late Emperor Alexander, a single shaft of red 
granite, which, exclusive of pedestal and capital, is upwards of eighty 
feet in height. This beautiful monument is the work of Monsieur 
Montferrand, the architect of the Isak church. The base and pedes- 
tal are also composed of an enormous block of the same material, of 
the height of about twenty-five feet, and nearly the same in breadth ; 
the capital measures ten feet, the statue of the angel on the sum- 
mit fourteen feet, and the cross seven feet — in all about one hundred 
and fifty feet. As the whole of St. Petersburg is built on a morass, 
it was thought necessary to drive no less than six successive rows of 
piles, in order to sustain so immense a weight as this standing upon 
a confined base. On the pedestal is the following inscription : " To 
Alexander the First, Grateful Russia." Unfortunately, a sort of 
worm is at work on this beautiful structure, which has caused the 
column to crack in several places. 

The following day we drove to the Hermitage, but were refused 
admittance on the plea that we had on frock coats. Hurrying back 
to the hotel, we put on dress coats, and then made a second effort, 
when another difficulty presented itself. " The Emperor was in the 
palace, and strangers were not admitted until he left." Feeling con- 
fident that the fellow lied, I offered him a silver ruble, which soon 
cleared the way. Indeed the Russian, like the Italian, may be bribed 
to do almost any thing. 

The Hermitage is the largest and most magnificent palace in 
Petersburg, and second only to the new imperial palace at Moscow. 
It is situated on the Neva, and is connected with the Winter Palace 
by means of passages on the first floor. (What we call the second 



372 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

floor is always called the first in Europe.) It was built by trie Em 
press Catherine, in order that she might have a place to retire in her 
leisure moments, there to enjoy the conversation of French philoso- 
phers and men of learning ; and here, after the duties of the sovereign 
had been transacted in the Winter Palace, she was wont to pass the 
evening surrounded by all that could gratify the eye or the senses ; 
musicians displayed their talents, artists their work, scientific men 
their speculations, and political men their opinions ; for in accord- 
ance with the ukase suspended in all the apartments, perfect freedom 
and equality reigned, and the pictures which we see elsewhere only as 
allegorical representations of art and science-loving princes, were here 
every day realized. On the roof was a garden of flowers, shrubs, and 
trees, heated in winter by subterranean stoves, and illuminated in sum- 
mer by variegated lamps, under the prismatic colors of which the bril- 
liant assemblage wandered. We ascended a beautiful flight of marble 
steps into a large hall of great beauty, containing fifteen or twenty 
large malachite vases. We were then conducted through a number 
of rooms filled with paintings by the best artists, and cabinets of rare 
workmanship, containing many precious stones. Among the paint- 
ings I was particularly attracted by the " Destruction of Pompeii," 
by BrullofT, on a canvas more than twenty feet square. Abraham 
offering up Isaac — a very large and well executed work. Among 
other things, I was interested in some articles of furniture made after 
patterns by Peter the Great. A large variegated vase or basin from 
Siberia. Two mosaic tables of extraordinary workmanship and 
beauty, representing on the top the principal buildings of the differ- 
ent cities in Italy. A machine representing a gilt peacock, standing 
on a gilt tree, and inclosed in a glass case, is very remarkable. A 
dressing box made entirely of large diamonds, and a sculpture gal- 
lery filled with handsome statuary of modern Roman artists. 

From the Hermitage we crossed over to the Winter Palace, which 
is also very splendid, and the residence of the Emperor. The throne 
room is handsome, but did not come up to my expectations, being 
inferior to several in Europe. 

Next in point of splendor is the Marble Palace, built by Catherine 
for Prince Gregory Orloff. The Taurida Palace, so called in com- 
pliment to Potemkin, the conqueror of the Khan of the Crimea, and 
presented to him by Catherine. Michaeloff Palace, by the Emperor 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 373 

Paul, and dedicated to St. Michael. The Annitchkoff Palace on the 
Great Prospect, built by the Empress Elizabeth, and bestowed on 
Count Razumoffsky, then twice purchased by Catherine and twice 
given to Prince Poternkin. The Palace of the Grand Duke Michael, 
the residence of the Emperor's brother, is decidedly one of the 
handsomest palaces in Petersburg. 

About twenty-five versts from the city is the summer residence of 
the royal family, prettily situated, but not at all remarkable. The 
town of Peterhoff is exceedingly neat, and the palaces look comfort- 
able. The grounds are extensive, and the fountains very large, but 
inferior to many in France and Italy. After roving all the morning 
through the gardens and parks at the heels of a stupid German 
valet-de-place, we dined at a very good restaurant, and returned in 
the afternoon to the city. The next day we accepted the invitation 
of Mr. Wright, our Secretary of Legation, to visit the islands above 
the city. At his instance we took a small steamboat at the quay, 
and sent the carriage to meet us, affording a fine opportunity of 
seeing the Neva and the summer villas of the citizens of Petersburg. 
We stopped at a place of amusement, where we heard the band led 
by Gungl, who played at the Inauguration ball of Gen. Taylor. 
After the music ceased we entered a room where model artists were 
being exhibited, and while we were admiring the different postures 
of the artists, some light-fingered scoundrel relieved my pocket of a 
purse containing one hundred rubles, and some other valuables. I 
tried to philosophize, but it was of no use. I could not divest my- 
self of the fact that my pocket was empty. Philosophy is a very 
good -horse in the stable, but out on a journey in a foreign land, far 
away from home, he does not work so well. Fortunately, my friend 
Johnstone was flush with circular notes, and there was no danger of 
starving. Our Minister and his Secretary both offered to let me 
have any amount, for which I shall ever feel grateful — particularly 
when I see a pickpocket's victim. 



374 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OK, 



LETTER SIXTY-SIX. 

Moscow. 
Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow — The Railroad — Russian Serfs — English Hotel- 
Sunday in Moscow — The Kremlin — Monasteries — The Riding School — Bazaars — Tea 
Houses — Amusing Incident, etc. 

From the capital we turned our faces in the direction of the burned 
and rebuilt city of the Czars — Moscow, with gilcffid cupolas, the 
holy Moscow, the sanctified city, the Jerusalem of Russia, beloved 
of God and dear to men. A few years ago the diligence was the 
only conveyance for the traveller between the two cities, over the 
best Macadamized road in Europe, shaded with trees, and with hand- 
some post houses under the direction of the government ; but this is 
no longer the mode of communication, for even Russia has imbibed 
the spirit of progress and improvement, and American engineers 
have constructed for them a railroad similar to those in their own 
country. The contractors have realized great fortunes, and secured 
the good opinion of the Emperor, by constructing a road that we 
would term second class in the United States. The bridges over the 
Volga, and several smaller streams, are built entirely of iron, and far 
more creditable than the road. When we arrived at the station we 
found it densely crowded with spectators, anxious to witness the 
starting of the train. The doors of the station-room were closed 
until a stated time to all except the military, who were permitted to 
take their seats leisurely in the cars, while those who had no buttons 
were compelled to " wait for the wagon? In no country have I 
seen the military so arrogant and overbearing. About eighty versts 
from Petersburg is the ancient city of Novogorod, now rapidly going 
to ruin. Some parts of it are still in good condition, but the city 
which covered, three centuries ago, an area of sixty-three versts in 
circumference, with a population of 400,000 inhabitants, is doomed 
and her greatness departed. 

The country through which the railroad passes is perfectly level 
and barren, thickly wooded with forests of stunted pine as in Ger- 
many, and thinly populated. The villages are numerous, but look 
forlorn, being generally the property and occupied by the serfs of the 
seigneurs, and consisting of one long street, with houses on both 
sides, built of logs, the better sort squared, with the gable-end to the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 375 

street, the roofs projecting several feet from the houses, and some- 
times ornamented with rude carving and small holes for windows. 
The Russian serfs differ from slaves in other countries, in the im- 
portant particular that they belong to the soil, and cannot be sold 
except with the estate ; they may change masters, but cannot be 
torn from their families or birthplace. One eighth of the whole 
peasantry of Russia, amounting to about seven millions, belong to 
the government, and occupy the imperial demesne, and pay an 
annual tax. The rest belong to the nobles, and are the absolute 
property and subject to the absolute control of their masters, as much 
as the cattle on their estates. Some of the serfs have been enfran- 
chised, and become burghers and merchants of great wealth ; but 
they cannot rise above a certain point. It is from this class that 
Russia recruits her immense standing army, or, in case of invasion, 
raises in a moment a vast body of soldiers. It is frequently asked : 
"What have such men to fight for? They have no country, and 
must be devoid of all those impulses that animate the bosom of a 
man fighting for his fireside and his home." The only solution that 
I can give is the singular fact, that with the Russian serf there is 
always an unbounded love for the Emperor. Next to their God is 
their ruler on earth, for whom they will fight to the death. 

When we arrived at the Moscow station a host of drosky drivers 
surrounded us, each one eager to convey us to the hotel. We could 
not speak a single word of their language, but were perfectly au fait 
in the language of signs. Selecting the man with the best physiog- 
nomy, I slapped him on the shoulder, gave him a knowing look, 
pointed- to our baggage, and ejaculated "Howard's," the name of a 
well-known English boarding-house. In a few minutes we were 
quietly seated in his drosky, and conveyed rapidly to the right 
place. 

It was Sunday morning when we reached Moscow, and the sound 
of the church-going bell reminded me of home ; the gathering for 
church, and the greeting of friends at the church door. But he who 
has never heard the ringing of bells at Moscow, does not know its 
music. Imagine a city containing nearly seven hundred churches 
and innumerable convents, all with bells, and these all sounding 
together, from the sharp, quick note, to the loudest, deepest peals 
that ever broke on the ear, struck at long intervals, and swelling on 



376 A TENNESBBAN ABROAD; OR, 

the air as if unwilling to die away. Sunday is also the day for ob 
serving national manners and customs. We dined at an early hour, 
and under the escort of our obliging landlord we drove in a drosky 
to a great promenade of the people, called L 1 Allee des Peuples. 
It is the great rendezvous of the merchants and shop-keepers of 
Moscow. The grounds are ornamented with extensive avenues, and 
provided with every thing necessary for the enjoyment of the vari- 
ous national amusements. Soldiers are stationed at every point to 
preserve order, and every one seemed to be happy ; but the principal 
attraction for us, as well as the people, were the Bohemian or gipsy 
girls. "Wherever they moved, a crowd gathered round them. They 
were the first that I had seen of this remarkable people, coming from 
no one knows where, and living no one knows how ; wanderers 
from their birth, and with a history enveloped in mystery. The 
men were now here to be seen, nor were there any old women about ; 
and these young girls, well dressed, and some of them very pretty, 
moved along in parties of six or eight, singing, playing, and danc- 
ing to admiring crowds. 

From this place we drove to Pedroski, the promenade for the 
nobility, where all the rank and fashion of Moscow were vieing with 
each other in style and magnificence. The grounds around the old 
chateau of the great Peter are handsomely disposed and ornamented 
with trees, and the carriage promenade equal to any in Europe. It 
is a straight road, more than a mile in length, through a dense forest 
of beautiful trees. For two hours before dark^ all the equipages of 
the nobility parade up and down this promenade. On either side of 
the road is a walk for foot passengers ; and behind this, almost con- 
cealed from view by the thick foliage, are little cottages, arbors, and 
tents, furnished with all kinds of refreshments suitable to the season. 

Fortunately for us, our landlord had an arrangement with the 
managers of the different apartments in the Kremlin to allow his 
guests to enter without the trouble of procuring tickets from the 
authorities. So at eleven o'clock on Monday morning we repaired 
to this renowned place — the centre of the great city, and a spot 
around which linger a thousand hallowed associations. The first 
thing that attracted our attention was the " Spass Vouta" (gate of 
the Redeemer,) through which we entered the walls that surround 
the triangular inclosure of the Kremlin. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 377 

It is the porta sacra and porta triumphalis of Moscow ; through it 
entered the triumphant warriors of Ivan Vassilievitch, after the con- 
quest of Kasan and Astracan, and those of Michaelis and Alexis 
after the victories obtained in the Ukraine. Over this gate is a pic- 
ture of the Saviour, under a glass, and before it hangs a large lamp, 
in a massive metal frame ; this is suspended by a heavy chain, and 
under it, to wind it up, stands a complicated machine, that jarred 
and rattled here in the time of the Czar Michael. A man whose 
sole business is to wind it up, has a table beside him with wax 
tapers, which he sells to be lighted before the picture. This shrine 
is an object of the greatest reverence with the Russians, although 
few know what it represents, it hangs so high and the colors are so 
faded. This forms a passage through the lofty tower of about 
twenty paces loug ; and every one, be he who he may, Mohammedan, 
Heathen, or Christian, must take off his hat, and keep it off until he 
has passed through to the other side. Even the Emperor and the 
haughty officer take off their hats ; and if the stranger should so far 
forget the custom, he will hear the gently murmured warning, 
" Shlapa, shlapia, batrushka" (the hat, the hat, father.) Passing 
through the gate, we find a noble esplanade, commanding one of the 
most interesting views of Moscow, and having in front the range of 
palaces of the Czars. These palaces present a combination of every 
variety of taste, and every order of architecture, Grecian, Italian, 
Tartar, and Hindoo, rude, fanciful, grotesque, gorgeous, magnificent, 
and beautiful. The next object was the Czar Kolokol, (King of 
Bells,) which is elevated on a massive pedestal of granite close to 
the tower of Ivan Veliki. It is the largest bell in the world, being 
twenty-one feet three inches high, twenty feet five inches in diameter, 
and is in no part less than three inches in thickness. It was cast by 
the command of the Empress Anne in 1730, and bears her figure in 
flowing robes on its surface, beneath which is a deep border of 
flowers. The tower on which it was suspended was burnt in 1737, 
and the fall buried the enormous mass deep in the earth, and broke 
a huo;e fragment from it about six feet lono* and three feet wide. 
It now stands the object of religious veneration by the Muscovite, 
and the wonder of all travellers. Here too is the largest cannon in 
the world, its dimensions being about fifteen feet in length, and six 
or seven feet in diameter. It is placed on a carriage, but is too 



378 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OB, 

heavy (forty-five tons) ever to be serviceable. After looking at this 
large piece, we walked through the Arsenal and examined the can- 
non taken by the Russians from the French, Poles, and other nations. 
They are numerous, and show conclusively that her armies have 
fought many battles, and gained not a few victories. Ascending the 
lofty tower of Ivan Veliki, which is the highest and most remark- 
able in Moscow, we obtained the best view of the city and its en- 
virons. Unlike St. Petersburg, the city is situated on high and 
rolling ground, the streets are very crooked, the houses low and their 
roofs painted green, which imparts to the city a singular and unique 
appearance. From this point the eye takes in at once the windings 
of the Moskwa, clusters of domes amounting in all to nearly two 
thousand, the Sparrow Hills from which Napoleon first viewed the 
sacred city, and innumerable objects interesting in their nature and 
pleasing to dwell upon. But to return to the tower, which rises with- 
out ornament to the height of more than two hundred feet, surmount- 
ed by a gilded dome upon which, as on all other gilded domes within 
the Kremlin, (about sixty in number,) the cross is displayed above 
the crescent. We gained the summit by a small staircase, and the 
view from each story, which serves as a belfry, stimulated us to 
renew our exertions to reach the top. In the first of these stories 
hangs, in solitary grandeur, a bell, which, but for the mightier one 
below, would appear stupendous. To ring it is of course impossible ; 
even to toll it requires the united strength of three men, who, pull- 
ing with separate ropes, swing the vast clapper round, making it 
strike the bell in three different places. In the belfry above are a 
number of other bells of great size and weight. Descending from 
the tower of Ivan, we entered the New Imperial Palace, recently 
completed by the present Emperor at an immense cost. It is con- 
nected with the Terema, and presents a striking contrast with the 
ancient structure, showing the improvement in architecture. The 
exterior of the New Palace is very imposing, but its great and un- 
equalled beauty is displayed in its internal arrangement. We 
entered by a lofty flight of white marble steps adorned with chaste 
malachite vases, and were then conducted slowly through the vari- 
ous apartments. 

The state rooms are fitted up with a degree of taste and splendor 
no where else to be seen. The floors are made of ebony and rose- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 379 

wood cut into small blocks and inlaid with mother-of-pearl — the 
walls covered with different colored silks — the pillars and ceiling 
covered with fine gold — the panels of the doors set with diamonds 
and other precious stones — the paintings by the best masters, and 
the furniture in keeping with the whole. In a word, it is the finest 
palace in the world. The Treasury has recently been removed to 
a fine marble building connected with the New Palace, and its 
precious contents arranged with great taste. The first room that we 
examined contains a number of elegant vessels used by the old Em- 
perors. The second room is filled with flags and white eagles taken 
from the Poles. The third room contains a great many curious 
antiques — such as a saddle made of red velvet and set with precious 
stones, presented to Constantine by one of the Sultans ; the crowns 
of Peter the Great and his brother, besides several others, including 
a Polish crown ; the magnificent robes in which the present Emperor 
was crowned ; a throne covered with turquoises of large size ; also, 
a throne of John III., made of ivory, beautifully ornamented with 
bas-reliefs, and sent as a present from Greece ; crown of the Empress 
Anne, covered with massive diamonds, and surmounted with an im- 
mense natural ruby and diamond cross. The last room on this floor 
contains a large collection of Turkish and other armor of interest, 
and in the rooms below I noticed a small iron bedstead taken from 
Napoleon, with his portrait hanging near it. A large number of old 
state carriages and sleds are to be seen here, showing that the 
moderns have made many improvements. These carriages are very 
long and heavy, whereas those made at the present day are light 
and comfortable. 

From the Treasury we went to the Uspenski Sabor, or Cathedral 
of the Assumption, founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Accord- 
ing to the national taste, a church must be crowded with pictures 
and shrines, and thus in this cathedral eye and spirit are bewildered 
with the glitter of gold and the glare of color. The whole church 
is gilt within ; even the heavy pillars that support the five cupolas 
are covered with this material from top to bottom, and the walls the 
same ; and on this golden ground large fresco paintings have been 
executed, the subjects taken from the Bible. In this cathedral the 
Emperors are crowned, and the Patriarch formerly officiated here. 
I do not admire the architecture or general appearance of this build- 



380 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OR, 

ing, which is peculiar to Russia, and far behind the age. Among 
the objects of curiosity in this cathedral is a representation of Mount 
Sinai of pure ducat gold, a present from Prince Potemkin. On the 
summit stands a golden Moses, with a golden table of the laws ; 
and within the mountain is a golden coffin to contain the host ; it 
is said to weigh 126,000 ducats. A Bible, the gift of Natalia 
Narishkin, the mother of Peter the Great, is so large and the cover 
so laden with gold and jewels, that it requires two strong men to 
carry it into the church. The emeralds on the cover are an inch 
long, and the whole binding cost 1,200,000 rubles. The great 
chestnut wood throne seat of Vladimir the Great, within a house of 
brass-work, which they say is in imitation of the tomb of Christ — 
and also a miraculous picture of the Saviour. Here, too, is to be 
seen a nail, said to be of the true cross ; a robe of the. Saviour, and 
a part of one worn by the Virgin. There is also a picture of her, 
said to have been painted by St. Luke, and brought from Constan- 
tinople by one of the early Czars. Here are the tombs of the 
Patriarchs of the Greek church, one of whom, St. Philip, and hon- 
ored by a silver monument, dared to say to Ivan the Terrible, " We 
respect you as an image of the Divinity, but as a man you partake 
of the dust of the earth." The greatest curiosity, however, is the 
golden shrine of the Patriarch Necosi in the sacristy, whose mould- 
ering skeleton is here presented, together with his wooden spoon. 

Behind the Cathedral of the Assumption stands the house which 
formerly belonged to the Patriarchs of Moscow, now called the 
Synodalni Dom, because a section of the Holy Synod has its office 
here. It contains the library of the Patriarchs, their treasury, and 
their wardrobe ; and in the church attached to it is preserved the 
holy oil that is used in baptizing all the children of Russia. The 
Arkhangelsk! Sabor (cathedral of Archangel Michael) is also in the 
Kremlin. In this church are the tombs of the early Emperors, and 
the celebrated boy Dmitri, so much worshipped by the Russians. 
The most remarkable looking church in Moscow is in the Red 
Square, just outside of the sacred gate, the architect of which had 
his eyes put out after its completion, so as to prevent his building 
another. 

From the Kremlin, we visited some of the monasteries in the 
suburbs, which constitute the largest, and next to the churches, the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 381 

most numerous class of buildings. The monks of Moscow wield a 
great influence in the community. 

Eeturning to the city, we stopped to see the Riding School, which 
has the largest unsupported roof in the world. I stepped it off, and 
found that it measured 192 paces in length, and 51 paces in breadth. 
Some years ago the Emperor reviewed 9,000 soldiers in the build- 
ing. The roof is constructed similar to the bridges made of arches 
and braces. 

The bazaars of Moscow are quite Eastern in appearance, differing 
entirely from those in Petersburg ; and the shop-keepers are so 
eager to sell to those passing, that they go so far as to take hold of 
your coat-tail, and almost drag you into a bargain. 

The Russians are great tea-drinkers, and their tea houses are as 
numerous as the restaurants of New- York. These houses are divided 
off into small rooms furnished with tea-tables. The waiters all wear 
long white shirts over their trousers, and look exceedingly neat. 
The Russian manner of making and drinking tea is altogether differ- 
ent from any other people. The waiter brings in two pots, one 
filled with boiling water, and the other half full of tea. He first 
pours a little tea into the cup, and then a little water. After this 
he empties more water into the tea-pot, and fills the cup therefrom. 
The Russian usually calls for a pair of sugar, meaning two lumps, 
which he holds in his fingers, and bites it off as he sips. He always 
empties his tea in a saucer, which he holds under the bottom on the 
ends of his fingers. He will drink ten or a dozen cups sometimes 
without rising from the table; and the merchants always conclude 
a bargain by taking a cup of tea. 

Just before leaving Moscow we made the acquaintance of Mr. 
Williams, of New- York, who is one of the railroad contractors, and 
has been a resident of Russia nine years. He seemed very glad to 
see us, and gave me the most cordial shake of the hand that I had 
felt for many a day. Quite an amusing incident occurred while we 
were in his company. He proposed that we should take our seats 
in the car before the station door was opened, saying that he would 
carry us through. When we reached the door the guard said that 
we should not pass, whereupon Mr. Williams caught him by the 
collar and held him out at arm's length, until we walked through. 
It was an amusing scene, and created great commotion among the 



382 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD ; OR, 

passengers, who could not understand how a plain-looking indi- 
vidual without buttons dared to act in such a manner. They soon 
learned, however, that he was an American, which explained the 
whole affair. 



LETTER SIXTY-SEVEN. 

Stockholm. 
Voyage from St. Petersburg to Stockholm — Revel — Helsingfors — Abo — Arrival in Stock- 
holm — The Park — King's Palace — Churches — Haga — Drottningholm — Jenny Lind's Pa- 
rents — The Swedes, etc. 

Having returned from Moscow to the capital, we engaged passage 
on a Russian steamer for Helsingfors in Finland, where we changed 
to a steamer for this city. We were too late to secure berths, and 
were compelled either to take a bench in the cabin or be detained 
another week in Petersburg, the very idea of which would have 
induced me to take the deck without mattress or covering. Al- 
though Russia is an extraordinary country, and her cities present 
innumerable attractions, yet the many annoyances that fetter the 
stranger at every step render it intolerable for an American who is 
permitted to move about at full liberty in his own' happy country. 

When we reached Cronstadt, the port of Petersburg, we encoun- 
tered a violent storm, which lasted only a few minutes; but this 
was long enough to do considerable damage to our little steamer. 
The day was very inclement, and running along the low flat coast 
of the gulf, without any particular object to interest us, was any 
thing but agreeable. At noon the next day we reached Revel, the 
capital of Livonia, where most of our passengers left us. This city 
in early times possessed considerable importance, but since the 
annexation of the country to Russia, St. Petersburg has taken all 
her trade. An old Russian, who was en route for Finland, went up 
into the town with us to see the corpse of a Livonian prince in one 
of the churches. As the story goes, he was denied the honor of 
burial because he could not pay his debts, and his body was cast 
into a cellar. Several hundred years afterwards it was discovered 
in a perfect state, and is now exhibited in a case deposited in the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 383 

church. Unfortunately the funeral obsequies of some countess was 
going on in the church, and we were denied the privilege of seeing 
this natural mummy. We arrived at Helsingfors about midnight, 
and being very sleepy, I hurried on board the Swedish steamer and 
disposed of myself in the best berth. In a few minutes a broad- 
faced German entered, and walked directly to my berth. I knew 
in an instant from his expression that he intended to lay claim to it, 
but having the right of occupation, I determined to lie low and 
keep dark. After considerable difficulty, he succeeded in arousing 
me from a deep slumber, and speaking in his vernacular, said that I 
was in his berth. I looked at him a moment, and by a shake of 
the head gave him to understand that I did not speak his language. 
He then spoke to me in French, and received the same shake of the 
head. Taking me to be a Russian, he went off and enlisted in his 
service one of the Czar's subjects, who also received the ignorant 
shake. Failing to make me understand in his language, he tried 
the Swedish, but without effect. By this time the German became 
impatient and somewhat enraged, and as a dernier ressort brought 
up the engineer, who was a John Bull, and no mistake. With an 
air peculiar to all Englishmen, he spoke out in a loud voice, saying, 
" Do you speak English, sir ?" to which I replied by the same shake 
of the head. Having exhausted all the languages that they could 
bring to bear, they naturally came to the conclusion that I was 
either deaf and dumb or a fool. John Bull, however, to make the 
matter certain, asked me in the name of God what language I did 
speak, to which I replied, American — a response that almost con- 
vulsed him with laughter. As soon as he recovered, he informed 
the German that I was a Yankee, and he had better let me alone, 
for all h — 11 could not move me. Taking John Bull's advice, the 
German sought out another berth, and left me to finish my nap. 

Our course the next day lay between the coast of Finland and the 
numerous little islands scattered along the shore, forming a distinct 
channel from the main sea. The whole country is barren, and 
covered with everlasting pine, which appears to be the chief growth 
of Eastern Europe. In the afternoon we reached Abo, where we 
remained one day. Soon after landing, an Englishman who was 
acquainted with the town accompanied us through the principal 
streets, which are wide and clean ; and wound up the proceedings 



384: A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

of the day in a snug little cafe situated in a grove, and attended by 
a pretty and graceful Swedish girl. Abo is inhabited mostly by 
Swedes, who are easily distinguished from the Russians, being much 
better looking and far more polite. At one time Abo was a flour- 
ishing town, and the seat of a university, which has been removed 
to Helsingfors. At present there is a goood deal of ship-building 
going on in the place, and the Emperor has contributed largely to 
aid a company in fitting out sixty vessels for the whale service. 
Several of them are completed, and judging from their appearance, 
they are well built, and will answer the purpose for which they are 
intended. 

As we were leaving Abo, many persons, mostly ladies, assembled 
on the quay to take leave of their friends, and I was particularly 
attracted by their grace and ease of manner. Voltaire very aptly 
terms the Swedes the French of the North. I was considerably 
interested in a parting scene between a young man and his wife. 
She was going to Stockholm, to be absent two weeks, and was as 
much affected as if it was for two years. They kissed, and kissed, 
and kissed, until I thought their lips would be seriously damaged, or 
become glued together. At dinner I observed another Swedish cus- 
tom, that differs entirely from any thing I ever saw. Before taking 
their seats at the table, they usually assemble around a small side table, 
and take what they call soup, or snaps, which consists of a kind of 
liquor extracted from potatoes, bread and butter, cheese and radishes. 
After walking around the soup table about ten minutes, they take 
their seats at the dinner table. We crossed the Gulf of Bothnia in 
the night, and early on the morning of the fifth day from Peters- 
burg, the Kelner aroused us to see the scenery on the narrow inlet 
leading to Stockholm, and the approach to the city, which is very 
beautiful. We landed at the quay near the King's Palace, and pro- 
ceeded without any examination of baggage to the Hotel du Com- 
merce, situated in the centre of the city. The hotels of Stockholm 
furnish only apartments, and the stranger, to get a respectable meal, 
must be regularly introduced to the Merchants' Club, where he pays 
one dollar and a half banco entrance fee, and dines a la carte. 

After dinner we crossed the water in a small boat managed by 
athletic women, to the Park, which is very extensive and handsomely 
adorned. In the centre there is a small palace belonging to the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 385 

King. The citizens of Stockholm have their amusements in the 
Park. In one part of it is a very good theatre, where we witnessed 
an exhibition of monkeys, dogs, and goats. The man who has 
charge of these animals is a perfect Alex. Selkirk of a fellow, and 
their performances are truly wonderful. 

The next day we visited the King's Palace, which is the largest 
house in the city, covering a great space, but quite plain both exter- 
nally and internally. It is built on a hollow square. The rooms 
are mostly small, and the ceiling low. There are some paintings 
and statuary here, but nothing of particular note. The library is 
quite extensive, and contains, among other books of interest, the 
Bible of Luther, with extensive notes on the margin in his own 
hand- writing ; also, a remarkable looking book, of enormous size, 
called the DeviPs Bible, written on parchment prepared of three 
hundred asses' skins. This Codex is a war-prize taken in Prague 
during the Thirty Years' War. In a square on the south side of 
the palace is a tall and slender obelisk, commenced by Gustavus 
III., and completed by Gustavus X. On the north side is a splen- 
did bridge of granite, which spans the water that divides the city. 
The central part rests on a small island, and underneath the arch is 
a very good restaurant. In the square, on the opposite side of the 
bridge from the palace, stands a very handsome equestrian statue of 
Gustavus Adolphus. 

The churches of Stockholm are quite handsome, but possess few 
attractions to one who has visited nearly all the churches of Europe. 
Cathrina church is the most prominent object in the city, and was 
founded in 1656, on the height where Christiern the Tyrant had 
the bodies burnt after the massacre, and where afterwards a wooden 
chapel was built by John III. Its name was given to it by Carl 
Gustaf, after his mother, and that monarch also presented to it two 
laro*e bells, which he had taken in Poland. After having been ruined 
by fire in 1723, it was rebuilt from drawings by Buyhomaster Adel- 
crantz. A dome was then constructed over the centre of the church, 
and its beautiful canopy is supported without the aid of a single 
pillar. It is said that the architect, fearing the dome would give way, 
killed himself; but his work still stands in its original beauty. 

Ridderholm's church, situated near the centre of the city, is also 
very handsome, particularly the spire, which is made of cast iron, 

11 



386 



OR, 



and exceedingly symmetrical. The reason for putting up an iron 
spire was to save the church from lightning — it having been struck 
three times. The church is filled with mausoleums, the finest of 
which are the Caroline and Gustavian graves, on each side of the 
church. It was in this church that Senator Carl Nilsson Farla took 
refuge when the rich Bo Jonsson Grip pursued him, excited by his 
raging jealousy. Carl Nilsson laid hold so fast of the corner of the 
altar that it broke, but Bo Jonsson hewed him in twelve pieces. 
This happened in 1383. In memory thereof, a stone divided into 
twelve parts has been laid in the floor just on the spot where the 
murder was accomplished. There are also some valuable ornaments 
in the way of trophies taken in the old wars, to be seen in the church. 

A few miles from the city is the royal summer residence, called 
Haga. In 1786 Gustaf III. laid the foundation of a great palace, 
but of which only the ground walls ever were finished. Among the 
minor buildings then constructed, that called Lilla Slottel (the little 
palace) was often inhabited by Gustaf III. The park is extensive 
and very handsome, and is adorned with a kiosk, a temple, urns, 
and constructions of many kinds. I was particularly attracted by 
a small foot bridge in imitation of a seine drawn by two huge 
figures representing negroes,— also, two gondolas, richly gilded, and 
adorned with the heads of the wild boar and rhinoceros. In differ- 
ent parts of the grounds I noticed large balls, made of green glass, 
and placed on a pedestal in the sun, in which could be seen the 
entire view round about in a small compass. 

About one hour's run on the steamer from Stockholm is the sum- 
mer palace of Drottingholm, on Lofon. It has been the royal seat 
as far back as the days of heathenism, and was then named Thor- 
sund. Queen Cathrina Jagellonica had a stone house built there, 
and King John III. visited it frequently, especially for the sake of 
the game forest he kept up there. But the year after the^ death of 
Carl Gustaf, the little palace was burnt, and the present new edifice 
was constructed by the Queen Dowager Hedvig Eleonora, at her 
own expense. The whole region was originally low and marshy, 
but stone vaults were constructed where the present gardens are, 
rocks were blasted, and the sunk lands were cleared by canals. The 
^alace is quite extensive and well furnished, but the park is the 
i attraction about the place. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 387 

Returning to the city, we made a visit to Jenny Lind's parents, 
who are now quite old and infirm. They are exceedingly plain, but 
seem very proud of their distinguished daughter, who has kindly 
given them all the comforts of life out of her earnings in the 
United States. The Swedes generally are proud of their Nightin- 
gale, but heap maledictions upon her for uniting her fortunes with 
a Jew. 

The Swedish ladies are without exception the most polite, graceful, 
and beautiful women of the north. Some of them are truly charm- 
ing ; and owing to the scarcity of the other sex, every stranger be- 
comes at once a lion. 



LETTER SIXTY-EIGHT. 

Copenhagen. 

Trollhattan Canal— Polh em and Gullo Falls— Go ttenburg— Voyage to Copenhagen— The 
Round Tower — Magdalene or Lady Church — King's Palace — Monuments — Thorwaldsen's 
Museum — Private Museum — Frederic Park — The Danes. 

At Stockholm we took passage on a small steamer called the Polhem 
for Gottenburg. It is the most indifferent boat on the canal, but we 
were compelled to take it, or remain in Stockholm for a month. I 
determined to pass the first night on deck, but found it so cold 
towards morning that I gladly retired to my berth. In a few min- 
utes I fell asleep, but it was short and disturbed; the atmosphere 
was so heated that I almost suffocated. Most of our passengers were 
ladies, on their way to the bathing places near Gottenburg, and 
amongst them was a young lady of considerable musical talent, and 
a great friend of Jenny Lind's — also a Swedish Baroness with two 
interesting daughters. 

After running all day through lakes and between the islands of 
the Baltic, we entered the great Trollhattan canal, which is without 
exception the most wonderful work in Sweden, and superior prob- 
ably to any canal in the world. It is fed by the lakes, and always 
has an abundance of water, sufficient for the largest vessels. Early 
on the morning of the second day we crossed Lake Roxen and 
Lake Boren, and reached Borenhault about noon. Here we passed 



388 A TENNESSEAI^ ABROAD; OR, 

through a succession of locks to Motala on lake Wetter. The 
canal between Lake Boren and Lake Wetter is cut out of the solid 
rock, and runs up a very steep ascent, the latter lake being much 
higher. These locks are wonderful works of art, that will ever re- 
dound to the honor of the engineer. The following day we crossed 
Lake Wenner, and visited the Polhem and Gullo Falls, situated a 
few hundred yards from the canal. These falls are but little known 
by European travellers, but are exceedingly beautiful, and far more 
interesting than the falls of the Rhine or Nile. At this point the 
canal descends through a great number of locks into the Hissengen. 
It is cut through solid rock, and very deep, giving it more the ap- 
pearance of a tunnel than a canal. 

We reached Gottenburg early the fourth day, and stopped at 
Blom's Hotel, which is the best in the city, but very poor. Soon 
after breakfast I received a visit from the two little daughters of the 
Baroness, and took a long walk with them through the public gar- 
dens. When I bade them adieu, they seemed much affected and 
cried bitterly. One is about ten and the other eight years of age, 
both beautiful and unusually intelligent. About two hours after the 
separation the servant returned with a present from one of them, 
with the message that I must not forget her when I returned to my 
far-off home. jRTo, little Swede, I can never forget you! Often 
hereafter will I recur with pleasure to the time when I dandled you 
on my knee, and listened to the sweet tones of your voice. You are 
a child now, young in years, and with a mind and heart plastic to 
all surrounding influences. Time and other scenes will soon oblite- 
rate my memory, but in this heart I will ever cherish the few brief 
days of love that you bestowed on me, and which older heads and 
hearts have denied. 

Gottenburg is more devoid of sights than any place of its size in 
Europe. It is situated in a plain surrounded by hills. On the out- 
skirts there is a very pretty avenue of trees, and a public garden, 
which are all that is worth looking at. The city looks old and 
dilapidated, the streets dull and inanimate, and the shops poorly 
furnished. 

We were compelled to remain four days in that city, from which 
we came on a splendid iron steamer to Copenhagen. Pretty soon 
after our arrival we, as usual, inquired for the best point to view the 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 389 

city, and were conducted by a valet-de-place to the summit of the 
Eound Tower, a lofty brick structure near the centre of the city, 
which is attached to a church, and furnishes an admirable view. 
The Queen sometimes ascends this tower in a carriage drawn by 
four horses, but always walks down. I noticed in a little room on 
the summit a number of astronomical instruments, and infer there- 
from that the tower is also used for an observatory. Close to the 
tower is the finest church in the city, called the Magdalene or Lady 
Church. The chief attractions in it are the colossal statues of Christ, 
the Virgin, and the twelve Apostles, by Thorwaldsen, the great 
Danish artist. The figure of Christ is represented with outstretched 
arms, and occupies a place above the altar. The Virgin has wings, 
and is kneeling on a carpet in front of the altar, holding in her 
hands a basin shaj3ed like a shell, and the twelve Apostles are ar- 
ranged on either side of the church in their order. These fourteen 
pieces are made out of the best Italian marble, and executed in the 
most beautiful manner. 

From the church we visited the King's Palace, a massive and un- 
prepossessing structure, resembling a barn more than a palace. In 
the third story there is a large collection of paintings of a negative 
character, and in the public square I noticed a bronze equestrian 
statue of Christian I., treading on the prostrate body of the King of 
Sweden, with four allegorical figures seated on each corner of the 
pedestal. Outside of the gate on the road leading to Fredericsburg 
is a tall obelisk erected by the peasants to Frederic VII. after he 
released them from bondage. 

The most remarkable object in Copenhagen is Thorwaldsen's 
Museum. The building is square, with a court inside, and the exte- 
rior is ornamented with frescoes, representing boats bringing the 
artist's marble from Italy, and the people carrying the blocks to the 
museum, and the multitude gazing on the scene with expressions of 
astonishment. This museum contains all of the artist's models, but 
very few pieces in marble. The interior walls are ornamented with 
bas-reliefs in marble, some of which are very fine, especially a pro- 
cession of figures representing the different vocations of life. His 
Eve I consider good, but inferior to some that I have seen in Italy. 
Near this museum is another of a different kind, belonging to a 
private gentleman. It is very extensive, and embraces curiosities 



390 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD; OR, 

from Greenland, Iceland, Kamtschatka, South America, and China. 
I was particularly interested in the collection from Greenland, show- 
ing the costumes and customs of that far-off and remarkable race. 
Their clothes are well cut, and made of skins ; their summer houses 
are also made of skins, in the shape of tents, and have the cellular 
tissue of animals for windows. Their cooking utensils are made of 
a soft kind of stone, and their beds are elevated about one foot 
from the ground. The collection of sleds, etc., from Greenland, is 
exceedingly interesting. In the collection from China we saw the 
likeness of the present Emperor and his wife, recently taken from 
life; also a great variety of curiosities no where else to be seen. 
Close to the museum is the Exchange, a very large building, sur- 
mounted with a sharp spiral steeple, and occupied principally with 
small shops ; also a church with a staircase on the outside of the 
spire, leading to the summit. 

About two miles from the city is the Frederic Park, one of the 
country seats of the King. The park is very handsome, but the 
palace is plain and much out of repair. On the road near the park 
are a number of neat cafes and gardens, where the people congre- 
gate in summer. Eeturning to the city, we stopped at a place called 
Tivoli, where there are all sorts of amusements, and where all classes 
meet. After walking about the gardens, gazing at the people, mon- 
keys, parrots, etc., we sat down and listened to a very good concert, 
then tried our hand at shooting with an air gun, and took a ride on 
a railway so constructed as to run both up and down an inclined 
plane. I noticed at this place many peculiarities of dress amongst 
the peasantry. The women usually wear a green gown with a large 
red-figured border round the skirt, and sleeves made very large 
above the elbow. They wear on the head a handkerchief half 
folded, tied under the chin, and the other half hanging behind, or 
nave a cap of gold or silver work, fitted on the back of the head. 
The men dress pretty much as they do in Germany, with rounda- 
bouts, large buttons, and large hats. From all I can see there exists 
no great difference between the Danes and Swedes, in appearance, 
manners, and customs. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 391 



LETTER SIXTY-NINE. 

Hanover. 
Voyage from Copenhagen to Kiel — Hamburg — The Alster Basin — The Bourse — Trip to Han- 
over — The Theatre — Royal Palace — Waterloo Column, etc. 

At Copenhagen we took passage on a splendid iron steamer belong- 
ing to a company in Lubec for Kiel in the Holstein. As we were 
coming out of the harbor I noticed four new yachts belonging to 
the English Royal Club. They were very handsomely fitted out, 
and were returning to London, one of them having won the cup in 
the regatta at St. Petersburg. During the day we ran close to the 
low coast of Denmark, and the following morning we were landed 
safely at Kiel, where we took the railroad for Hamburg. The coun- 
try between the two places is rather flat, but in a high state of cul- 
tivation, and produces well. There is a great deal of bog land on 
the line, and seeing the peasantry cutting and piling up the peat, 
reminded me forcibly of my tour through the South of Ireland. 
Reached Hamburg, or Altona, its suburb, in three hours, and took 
apartments at one of the hotels on the Alster, in the new and most 
beautiful part of the city. The Alster is a large and splendid basin, 
covered with pleasure boats, fowls of nearly every description, and 
other objects pleasing to the eye. An avenue of trees extends en- 
tirely around it, forming a delightful shade over the promenade, on 
which pavilions and other places of public resort are erected. The 
hotels on the Alster are numerous, and far superior to any in 
Europe. 

The most prominent object in the old part of the city is St. Michael's 
Church, from which can be obtained the best view of Hamburg and 
the surrounding country. It has one of the loftiest steeples in Europe, 
being four hundred and fifty feet in height, and used as the station 
of the fire watch. Every hour the watchman blows a trumpet from 
the windows to let the people know that he is vigilant. 

Hamburg is situated about eighty miles from the mouth of the 
Elbe. It is one of the four remaining Free Towns, and is chiefly 
remarkable as the first trading seaport of Germany, being to the 
north what Trieste is to the south. It is intersected by canals, called 
Fleethen, (Fleet ditches,) and in this respect, in the antiquated 



392 A TENNESSEAN 

appearance of its houses in the old city, and in the trees growing in 
its streets, bears a resemblance to the towns in Holland. Four thou- 
sand vessels enter the port yearly, and more emigrants sail for the 
United States than from any other port, except Liverpool. It was 
once a fortified town, and was twice occupied by the French under 
Davoust in 1813. The ramparts no longer exist, being levelled and 
converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, 
which extend nearly round the town and between the two Alster 
basins. 

The Bourse of Hamburg is situated in the new part of the city on 
the Adolphs Platz, and is one of the largest and most convenient 
establishments of its kind on the Continent. One o'clock is the 
hour when the merchants assemble, at which time from five to six 
thousand may be seen on any day dealing in stocks. Near the Ex- 
change is the Merchants' Bank, a very superb structure, with the 
vault under ground and covered with water. I noticed also in this 
neighborhood a building with an engraved front. The figures are 
engraved in the stone, and the effect is very fine. 

At Hamburg we took a steamer for a small town above, where 
the railroad terminates, and reached Hanover in eight hours, pass- 
ing through an undulating and highly cultivated country. The 
capital of this kingdom is situated in a plain on the Leine, a small 
stream, and has about forty-five thousand inhabitants. It does not 
present an imposing appearance at a distance, and there are but few 
objects within to attract the stranger. The new theatre, not yet 
finished, is a very large building, and externally the finest in Europe. 
The finest buildings are collected around a square called Waterloo 
Platz, which serves also as a parade ground. In the centre of this 
square is the Waterloo Column, one hundred and sixty-two feet 
high, surmounted by a figure of Victory, and inscribed with the 
names of the Hanoverians, privates as well as officers, who fell in 
that battle. On either side of it are extensive barracks. The 
Royal Palace is also on this platz, a very extensive building and well 
furnished. In the plate-room I noticed a collection of mediaeval 
antiquities, relics, etc., some of them brought from Palestine by 
Henry the Lion, under the care of the Ober Hof-Commissar. In a 
small circular temple near the palace we saw Leibnitz's bust, much 
injured by persons throwing stones at it. 



LETTERS FEOM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 393 

Iu the old town several antique Gothic houses still exist, and are 
curiously ornamented. Leibnitz's house, with stone ornaments and 
scriptural bas-reliefs on its front, is considered one of the most 
interesting objects in the city. Like most of the towns in Germany, 
Hanover boasts of her avenues and gardens of public resort. A grand 
double avenue of limes, more than two miles long, extends from the 
town to the Royal Palace of Herrenhausen, the favorite residence of 
George I. and II. The building is now deserted and out of order, but 
the gardens are still kept in beautiful style, and contain statues, 
hot-houses, and jets d'eau. In the Mausoleum we saw a monumental 
effigy of the late Queen Frederica, by Eauch, and our guide pointed 
out the spot where the Electress Sophia, mother of George L, and 
granddaughter of James L, fell dead while taking her evening 
walk. 



LETTER SEVENTY. 

Aix-la-Chapelle. 
Trip from Hanover to Aix-la-Chapelle— The Baths — The Redoute— The Dom Kir che— Hotel 
de Ville — Summary of my Tour — Conclusion. 

At Hanover a young German from St. Louis, who had emigrated 
some years ago from Baden, got into the same car with us, on his 
way to his mother home to visit the friends of his youth. From 
his appearance and conversation we soon learned that he was a 
mechanic, of small means, but strict honesty. At Minden our pass- 
ports were examined, and his found without the vise of the proper 
authorities in Hamburg. The officers would not allow him to pro- 
ceed, and his funds were so near exhausted that any detention would 
leave him without a dollar. Our sympathies were aroused in his 
behalf, and we expostulated with the officers, but without effect. 
Seeing that he had no other alternative but to return to Hanover, 
we made up a purse for him, and explained what the law required. 
I shall never forget the remark he made when he bade us good bye. 
With a firm grasp of the hand, and a countenance beaming with grat- 
itude, he exclaimed, " Gentlemen, you have my heartfelt thanks for 
your kindness. There is no country like America ; and if God spares 
me to return, I will never make another track on this continent !" 



394 

A ride of ten hours from Hanover brought us to the banks of the 
beautiful Rhine, and the ancient city of Cologne. We stopped at the 
Bellevue, the same hotel that we occupied more than a year ago, while 
on our way to Switzerland. This is the first time we have crossed our 
track, and as I described Cologne before, I will pass on to the curios- 
ities of this renowned watering place. Aix-la-Chapelle was called 
Aquis Granum by the Romans, and remains of their baths are still 
to be found near the warm springs. Charlemagne raised it to the rank 
of second city in his empire, and made it the capital of his northern 
dominions, appointing it the place of coronation for the German 
emperors. In the middle ages it was honored with the privileges of 
a Free Imperial City, and acquired considerable importance as a 
manufacturing town, especially in the manufacture of cloth, for which 
it is celebrated even to the present day. It was the scene of many 
Diets of the Empire, and of several councils of the Church ; and in 
later times it has been distinguished by the congresses held there. 
After the Peace of Paris it was taken from France, to which it had 
been united by Napoleon, and made a part of the dominions of the 
King of Prussia. 

Agreeably to recommendation, we stopped at Mullen's Hotel, oppo- 
site the great fountain. The situation is good, because we can see all 
the elite and fashion of this renowned place assembled every morning 
and evening to drink the mineral waters. Most of the springs are 
hot, and the magnificent baths throughout the city are supplied di- 
rectly from the main fountain. A walk of nearly a mile through a 
beautiful avenue brought us to a little town called Borcette, that 
boasts of two of the largest and best springs in the vicinity of Aix. 
The water of one is so hot that I could not hold the glass in my fin- 
gers, and that of the other pleasantly cool. This place is patronized 
by the poor, who are unable to stand the high prices in the city. On 
the way a noble viaduct is passed, which carries the Cologne railway 
over the valley of Burtscheid. It is very lofty, constructed of brick, 
and contains a great number of arches. 

About half a mile north of Aix, on the opposite side of Borcette, 
beyond the Sandkard Thor, is the hill called Louisberg, two hundred 
feet high, surmounted by a pyramid or obelisk raised for trigonome- 
trical purposes. The view from the summit is extensive, and the 
country exceedingly beautiful. On the lower slope stands a hand- 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 395 

some restaurant and cafe, the Belvidere, with a saloon commanding 
a noble prospect. Returning to Aix, we visited the JRedoute, or gam- 
ing-house, which corresponds with what they call the Kursaal at 
other watering places. The building is quite inferior compared with 
those at Baden and Wiesbaden. Games of hazard, rouge-et-noir, 
roulette, etc., are carried on very extensively night and day. The 
tables are let out to a company by the government, who are com- 
pelled to apply a large portion of their profits to the improvement 
of the town. 

The most interesting object in Aix-la-Chapelle is the Munster or 
DomKirche, (Cathedral,) which occupies the spot where Charlemagne 
had erected " the chapel " after which the city was named. " He 
designed it to be a burial place for himself, causing it to be con- 
structed in the form of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusa- 
lem. It was consecrated by Pope Leo III., with a ceremony worthy 
of its spendor. The original church w r as destroyed by the Nor- 
mans, and rebuilt as it now stands by the Emperor Otho III. in 983, 
in conformity with the old plan. The tomb, in which once reposed 
the remains of Charlemagne, is marked under the centre of the dome 
by a large slab of marble, with the words ' Carolo Magno' inscribed 
upon it. A massive brazen chandelier hangs above it, the gift of the 
Emperor Frederic Barbarossa. In the vault below, the body of 
Charlemagne was seated on his throne, as one alive, clothed in the 
imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in his hand, and on his knee a 
copy of the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was the crown, the im- 
perial mantle covered his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was by his 
side, and the pilgrim's pouch, which he had borne always while liv- 
ing, was still fastened to his girdle." These precious relics were 
taken from the vault by Barbarossa and used in the coronation 
of succeeding Emperors of Germany. They are now preserved at 
Vienna. 

The throne in which the body of Charlemagne was seated alone 
remains here. It is an arm-chair, made of slabs of white marble, 
which during the coronation were covered with gold. The choir of 
the church contains a pulpit, covered with plates of silver gilt, richly 
ornamented with carvings in ivory and precious stones. The sa- 
cristy is very rich in relics, such as the skull of Charlemagne inclosed 
in a silver gilt case something like a barber's block, and his arm-bone, 



396 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD J OK, 

and part of one of his legs, the hunting horn of Charlemagne formed 
of an elephant tusk, a locket of the Virgin's hair, and a piece of the 
true cross — two relics of which he wore around his neck, in his grave 
as well as when alive. The leather girdle of Christ, on which may 
still be seen the impression of Constantine's seal — the cord which 
bound the rod that smote him — the sponge which was filled with 
vinegar — that arm of Simeon on which he bore the infant Jesus — 
some of the blood and bones of St. Stephen — some manna from the 
wilderness — and some pieces of Aaron's rod, are still preserved. 

The Grandes Reliques are shown only once in seven years, from the 
15th to the 27th of July. The last exhibition took place in 1853. 
So sacred is this ceremony held, and so high is the privilege esteemed 
of obtaining a glimpse of them, that pilgrims resort to the spot from 
all parts of the country in vast crowds. " These relics were presented 
to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Haroun al 
Raschid. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work 
of artists of the ninth century, and consist of— 1st. The robe worn by 
the Virgin at the Nativity; it is of cotton, five feet long. 2nd. The 
swaddling-clothes in which Jesus was wrapped ; they are of cloth, 
as coarse as sacking, of a yellow color. 3rd. The cloth on which the 
head of John the Baptist was laid. 4th. The scarf worn by our Sa- 
viour at the Crucifixion, bearing stains of blood. Intermixed with 
these religious relics are many curious antique gems, some Babylo- 
nian cylinders, and the like, which serve as jewels to ornament the 
saintly treasure. The church-plate, and articles of goldsmith's work, 
shrines, ampuls, reliquaries, crosses, chalices, etc., render this sacristy 
a perfect museum of art." 

From the cathedral, we went to the H6tel de Ville (Rathaus) in 
the marketplace, a large and antique stone building erectedin 1353, 
on the site of the Palace of the Frankish Kings, in which Charle- 
magne was born. It is remarkable as the place of meeting of the 
two congresses of 1748 and 1818. The King of Prussia has appro- 
priated a large sum of money for the repair of this building, which 
is now in progress. 



LETTERS FROM EUROPE, AFRICA, AND ASIA. 397 



CONCLUSION. 

In the series of letters published in your valuable paper I have, 
in a feeble manner, endeavored to acquaint your readers with all 
the incidents of note that came under my observation, during a 
tour of two years ; and as I do not intend going over the same 
ground, this will be my last. In reviewing the contents of these let- 
ters, which were written for the benefit of friends at home, we nat- 
urally recur to the commencement of our tour. Those who have 
perused them followed us across old ocean's wave to our mother 
country, thence to la belle France, up the beautiful Rhine, over the 
snow-capped Alps into classic Italy. Leaving the shores of Europe, 
they followed us across the deep-blue Mediterranean to the land of 
the Pharaohs, up the Nile into Nubia, over the sands of the great 
Arabian Desert to Jerusalem, the mother of cities. They have knelt 
with us at the Holy Sepulchre, and all the shrines of Palestine ; they 
have roved with us through the cities of the Orient, and through 
Greece, the land of Poets, Philosophers, and Orators. Once more in 
Europe, they have accompanied us through all the German States, 
and the dominions of the Czar as far as the Sacred City (Moscow). 
Retracing our steps as far as St. Petersburg, they have gone with us 
through all the countries of the North, even to the point where the 
sun is visible for three days above the horizon. 

During the period of our wanderings we have had ample opportu- 
nities of seeing and learning the peculiarities of the various countries 
on the three continents, and comparing them with our own happy 
land. What has been the result ? Do we return dissatisfied with the 
land of our nativity ? or are we willing to live and die there ? 

Nature has given us a country of virgin soil, capable of producing 
every variety of products, and our mountains are filled with untold 
wealth. The rivers of the United States are more numerous and 
better fitted for navigation than those of any other country in the 
world. Our government is the perfection of human wisdom, and 
onr people are not only familiar with its principles, but able and 
always willing to defend them. Some of our colleges will compare 
favorably with the oldest and most renowned in Europe, and in point 
of general intelligence, no country can claim superiority over us. 



398 A TENNESSEAN ABROAD. 

In the sciences and the fine arts we, of course, cannot set up our 
claim for eminence, but in a short period we may even boast of these 
things. 

With such a country, and so much to make one happy, how can 
any sensible American ever wish to abandon it ? Let those who speak 
of disunion, who have sectional prejudices, or who are blindly led by 
party rule, make the tour of the Old World, and if I am not greatly 
mistaken they will return home with national ideas, national love, 
and national fidelity. 



FINIS, 



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<m 



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^Ar 



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redfield's new and popular publications. 

ISA, A PILGRIMAGE. 
By Caroline Chesebro'. One vol., 12mo, cloth, price $1.00. 

" The Pilgrimage is fraught throughout with scenes of thrilling interest — romantic, 
yet possessing a naturalness that seems to stamp them ae real ; the style is flowing and 
easy, chaste and beautiful." — Troy Daily Times. 

" Miss Chesebro' is evidently a thinker — she skims not the mere surface of life, but 
plunges boldly into the hidden mysteries of the spirit by which she is warranted in 
making her startling revelations of human passion." — Christian Freeman. 

" There comes out in this book the evidence of an inventive mind, a cultivated taste, 
an exquisite sensibility, and deep knowledge of human nature." — Albany Argus. 

" It is a charming book, pervaded by a vein of pure ennobling thought." — Troy Whig. 

" There is no one who will doubt that this is a courageous and able work, displaying 
genius and depth of feeling, and striking at a high and noble aim." — N. Y Evangelist. 

" There is a fine vein of tenderness running through the story, which is peculiarly 
one of passion and sentiment." — Arthur's Home Gazette. 



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LECTURES AND MISCELLANIES. 
By Henry James. One vol., 12mo, cloth, price $1.25. 

" A series of essays by one of the most generous thinkers and sincere lovers of truth 
in the country. He looks at society from an independent point of view, and with the 
noblest and most intelligent sympathy." — Home Journal. 

" This is the production of a mind richly endowed of a very peculiar mould. All will 
concede to him the merit of a vigorous and brilliant intellect."— Albany Argus. 

"A perusal of the essays leads us to think, not merely because of the ideas which they 
contain, but more because the ideas are earnestly put forth, and the subjects discussed 
are interesting and important to every one." — Worcester National JEgis. 

"They have attracted much attention both here and in Europe, where the author is 
considered as holding a distinctive and prominent position in the school of modern 
philosophy." — Albany Atlas. 

"The writer wields a masterly and accurate pen, and his style is good." — Boston 
Olive Branch. 

" It will have many readers, and almost as many admirers." — N. Y. Times. 




NAPIER'S PENINSULAR WAR. 

History of the War in the Peninsula, and in the South of France, 
from the Year 1807 to 1814. By W. F. P. Napier, C.B., Col. 
43d Reg., &c. Complete in one vol., 8vo, price $3.00. 

" We believe the Literature of War has not received a more valuable augmentation 
this century than Colonel Napier's justly celebrated work. Though a gallant combatant 
in the field, he is an impartial historian." — Tribune. 

"Napier's History, in addition to its superior literary merits and truthful fidelity, 
presents strong claims upon the attention of all American citizens ; because the author 
is a large-souled philanthropist, and an inflexible enemy to ecclesiastical tyranny and 
secular despots." — Post. 

" The excellence of Napier's History results from the writer's happy talent for im- 
petuous, straight-forward, soul-stirring narrative, and picturing forth of characters. 
The military manoeuvre, march, and fiery onset, the whole whirlwind vicissitudes of the 
desperate fight, he describes with dramatic force." — Merchants' Magazine. 



REDFIELD S NEW AND POPULAR PUBLICATIONS. 



POETICAL WORKS OF FITZ-GREENE HALLECK 

New and only Complete Edition, containing several New Poems s 
together with many now first collected. One vol., 12mo., price 
one dollar. 

" Halleck is one of the brightest stars in our American literature, and his name is 
like a household word wherever the English language is spoken."— Albany Express. 

" There are few poems to be found, in any language, that surpass, in beauty oi 
Uiought and structure, some of these." — Boston Commonwealth. 

" To the numerous admirers of Mr. Halleck, this will be a welcome book ; for it is a 
characteristic desire in human nature to have the productions of our favorite authois 
in an elegant and substantial form." — Christian Freeman. 

" Mr. Halleck never appeared in a better dress, and few poets ever deserved a bettei 
one." — Christian Intelligencer. 



THE STUDY OF WORDS. 
By Archdeacon R. C. Trench. One vol., 12mo., price 75 cts. 

" He discourses in a truly learned and lively manner upon the original unity of laa 
guage, and the origin, derivation, and history of words, with their morality and sep 
arate spheres of meaning. ' — Evening p-st 

" This is a noble tribute to the divin< faculty of speech. Popularly written, for use 
as lectures, exact in its learning, and K oetic in its vision, it is a book at once for the 
scholar and the general reader." — New York Evangelist. 

" It is one of the most striking and original publications of the day, with nothing of 
hardness, dullness, or dryness about it, but altogether fresh, lively, and entertaining." 
— Boston Evening Traveller. 



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BRONCHITIS, AND KINDRED DISEASES. 

In language adapted to common readers. By W. W. Hall, M. D 
One vol., 12 mo, price $1.00. 

"It is written in a plain, direct, common-sense style, and is free from the quackery 
which marks many of the popular medical books of the day. It will prove useful to 
those who need it" — Central Ch. Herald. 

" Those who are clergymen, or who are preparing for the sacred calling, and public 
speakers generally, should not fail of securing this work." — Ch. Ambassador. 

u It is full of hints on the nature of the vital organs, and does away with much super- 
stitious dread in regard to consumption." — Greene County Whig. 

•' This work gives some valuable instruction in regard to food and hygienic influ* 
'snces."— Nashua Oasis. 



KNIGHTS OF ENGLAND, FRANCE, AND SCOTLAND, 
By Henry William Herbert. One vol., 12mo., price $1.25. 

" They are partly the romance of history and partly fiction, forming, when blended, 
portraitures, valuable from the correct drawing of the times they illustrate, and interest 
ing from their romance." — Albany Knickerbocker. 

" They are spirit-stirring productions, which will be read and admired by all who 
are pleased with historical tales written in a vigorous, bold, and dashing style."— Boston 
Journal. 

" These legends of love and chivalry contain some of the finest tales which the 
graphic and powerful pen of Herbert has yet given to the lighter literature of the day * 
-Detroit Free Tress 



KEDFIELD S NEW AND POPULAR PUBLICATIONS. 

MOORE'S LIFE OF SHERIDAN. 

Memoirs of the Life of the lit. Hon. Richard Brinsley Sheridan, 
by Thomas Moore, with Portrait after Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
Two vols., 12mo, cloth, $2.00. 

11 One of the most brilliant biographies in English literature. It is the life of a wit 
written by a wit. and few of Tom Moore's most sparkling poems are more brilliant and 
r ascinating than this biography." — Boston Transcript. 

" This is at once a most valuable biography of the most celebrated wit of the times, 
nd one of the most entertaining works of its gifted author." — Springfield Republican. 

"The Life of Sheridan, the wit, contains as much food for serious thought as the 
best sermon that was ever penned." — Arthur's Home Gazette. 

"The sketch of such a character and career as Sheridan's by sue hand as Moore's, 
can never cease to be attractive." — N. Y. Courier and Enquirer. 

"The work is instructive and full of interest." — Christian Intelligencer. 

" It is a gem of biography ; full of incident elegantly written, warmly appreciative, 
and on the whole candid and just. Sheridan was a rare and wonderful genius, and has 
in this work justice done to his surpassing merits."— N. Y. Evangelist. 



BARRINGTON'S SKETCHES. 

Personal Sketches of his own Time, by Sir Jonah Bakringtow, 
Judge if the High Court of Admiralty in Ireland, with Illustra- 
tions by Darley. Third Edition, 12mo, cloth, $1 25. 

" A more entertaining book than this *- not often thrown in our way. His sketches 
of character are inimitable ; and many of the prominent men of his time are hit off hi 
the most striking and graceful outline." — Albany Argus. 

" He was a very shrewd observer and eccentric writer, and his narrative of his owu 
life, and sketches of society in Ireland during his times, are exceedingly humorous and 
interesting." — N. Y. Commercial Advertiser. 

" It is one of those works which are conceived and written in so hearty a view, and 
brings before the reader so many palpable and amusing characters, that the entertain 
ment and information are equally balanced."— Boston Transcript. 

" This is one of the most entertaining books of the season." — N. Y. Recorder. 

" It portrays in life-like colors the characters and daily habits of nearly all the Eng 
lish and Irish celebrities of that period."— N. Y. Courier and Enquirer. 



JOMINFS CAMPAIGN OF WATERLOO. 

The Political and Military History of the Campaign of Waterloo 
from the French of Gen. Baron Jomini, by Lieut. S V. Beset 
U. S. Ordnance, with a Map, 12mo, cloth, 75 cents. 

"Of great value, Doth for its historical merit and its acknowledged impartiality."— 
Christian Freeman, Boston. 

" It has long been regarded in Europe as a work of more than ordinary merit, while 
to military men his review of the tactics and manoeuvres of the French Emperor dur- 
ing the few days which preceded his final and most disastrous defeat, is considered ai 
instructive, as it is interesting."— Arthur's Home Gazette. 

" It is a standard authority and illustrates a subject of permanent interest. Witfe 
military students, and historical inquirers, it will be a favorite reference, and foi mIb 
general reader it possesses great value and interest." — Boston Transcript. 

" It throws much light on often mooted points respecting Napoleon's military ^nd 
political genius. The translation is one of much vigor." — Boston Commonwealth. 

" It supplies an important chapter in the most interesting and eventful period o* rtfc 
poleon's military career." — Savannah Daily News. 

< It is ably written and skilfully translated." — Yankee Blade. 



REDFIELD S NEW AND POPUL \R PUBLICATIONS 



CLOVERNOOK; 

Or, Recollections of our Neighborhood in the West. By Alicr 
Carey. Illustrated by Darley. One vol., I2mo., price $1.00. 
(Fourth edition.) 

" In this volume there is a freshness which perpetually charms the reader. Yon seem 
to be made free of western homes at once." — Old Colony Memorial. 

"They bear the true stamp of genius— simple, natural, truthful— and evince a keen 
sense of the humor and pathos, of the comedy and tragedy, of life in the country." — J 
G WhiUier. 



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DREAM-LAND BY DAY-LIGHT: 

A Panorama of Romance. By Caroline Chesebro'. Illustrated 
by Darley. One vol., 12mo., price $1.25. (Second edition.) 

" These simple and beautiful stories are all highly endued with an exquisite percep- 
tion of natural beauty, with which is combined an appreciative sense of its relation to 
the highest moral emotions."— Albany State Register. 

" Gladly do we greet this floweret in the field of our literature, for it is fragrant with 
sweet and bright with hues that mark it to be of Heaven's own planting." — Courier and 
Enquirer. 

" There is a depth of sentiment and feeling not ordinarily met with, and some of the 
noblest faculties and affections of man's nature are depicted and illustrated by the skil- 
ful pen of the authoress." — Churchman. 



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LAYS OF THE SCOTTISH CAVALIERS. 

By William E. Aytoun, Professor of Literature and Belles-Let 
tres in the University of Edinburgh and Editor of Blackwood's 
Magazine. One vol., 12mo. cloth, price $1.00. 

" Since Lockhart and Macaulay's ballads, we have had no metrical work to be com' 
pared in spirit, vigor, and rhythm with this. These ballads knbcdy and embalm the 
chief historical incidents of Scottish history— literally in * thoughts that breathe and 
words that burn.' They are full of lyric energy, graphic description, and genuine feel 
mg." — Home Journal. 

" The fine ballad of « Montrose' in this collection is alone worth the price of the book.' 
Boston Transcript. 



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THE BOOK OF BALLADS. 
By Bon Gaultier. One volume, 12mo., cloth, price 75 cents. 

'« Here is a book for everybody who loves classic fun. It is made up of ballads oi 
11 borts, each a capital parody upon the style of some one of the best lyric writers oi 
iho time, from the thundering versification of Lockhart and Macaulay to the sweetest 
and simplest strains of Wordsworth and Tennyson. The author is one of the firs! 
scholars, and one of the most finished writers of the day, and this production is but tha 
frolic of his genius in play-time •" — Courier and Enquirer. 

" We do not know to whom belongs this nom de plume, but he is certainly a humorist 
of no common pownr." — Providence Journal. 



NEW AND POPULAR PUBLICATIONS. 



LEE'S TALES OF LAB OB. 



SUMMERFIELD; 

Or, Life on a Farm. By Day Kellogg Lee. One vol., 12mo; 
price $1.00. 

" We hare read it with lively and satisfied interest. The scenes are natural, the char- 
acters homely and life-like, and the narrative replete with passages of the profoundest 
pathos, and incidents of almost painful interest. Above all, ' Summerfield' is in the 
deepest sense religious, and calculated to exert a strong and wholesome moral influence 
on irs readers, who we trust will be many." — Horace Greeley. 

" It aims to teach the lesson of contentment, and the rural picture which it draws, and 
the scenes of home happiness with which it makes us acquainted, are well calculated to 
enforce it." — Atlas. 

" There is a great deal of life and nature in the story, and in some of the scenes there 
is a rich display of wit." — Albany Argus. 

" It has a flavor of originality, and the descriptions are generally excellent; and, what 
is something of a peculiarity at present in writing of this kind, not overburdened with 
words." — Literary World. 



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THE MASTER BUILDER; 

Or, Life at a Trade. By Day Kellogg Lee. One vol., 12mo ; 
price $1.00. 

" He is a powerful and graphic writer, and from what we have seen in the pages of 
the ' Master Builder,' it is a romance of excellent aim and success." — State Register. 

" The ' Master Builder' is the master production. It is romance into which is instilled 
the realities of life ; and incentives are put forth to noble exertion and virtue. The 
story is pleasing— almost fascinating ; the moral is pure and undefiled." — Daily Times. 

" Its descriptions are, many of them, strikingly beautiful ; commingling in good pro- 
portions, the witty, the grotesque, the pathetic, and the heroic. It may be read with 
profit as well as pleasure." — Argus. 

** The work before us will commend itself to the masses, depicting as it does most 
graphically the struggles and privations which await the unknown and uncared-foi 
Mechanic in his journey through life. It is what might be called a romance, but not of 
love, jealousy, and revenge order." — Lockport Courier. 

" The whole scheme of the story is well worked up and very instructive." — Albany 
Express. 



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MERRIMAC; 

Or, Life at the Loom. By Day Kellogg Lee. One vol., 12mo ; 
price $1.00. 

" A new volume of the series of popular stories which have already gained a well" 
deserved reputation for the author. As a picture of an important and unique phase of 
New England life, the work is very interesting, and can scarcely fail of popularity among 
the million."— Harper's Magazine. 

" The work is extremely well written. It is as interesting as a novel, while it is natu- 
ral as every-day life." — Boston Traveller. 

* Merrimac is a story which, by its simple pathos, and truthfulness to nature, will 
touch the heart of every reader. It is free from the least tinge of that odious stilted 
style of thought and diction characteristic of the majority of the novels with which the 
reading public are deluged." — 2V. Y. Commercial Advertiser. 

" Another plain, straightforward, absorbing work from a pen which before has added 
riches to our literature, and honor to him who wielded it." — Buffalo Express. 

u It is written in a genial spirit and abounds in humor." — N. Y. Courier and Enquirer. 



THE NOCTES AMBROSIANJi; 

With Portraits of Wilson, Lockhart, Maginn, Hogg, and fac-simeles. 

EDITED, WITH MEMOIRS, NOTES, AND ILLUSTRATIONS, 

BY DR. SHELTON MACKENZIE, 

Edixok of Sheil's " Sketches of the Irish Bar." 



The Noctes were commenced in 1822, and closed in 1835. Even in England, the lapse 
of years has obscured many circumstances which were well known thirty vars ago. 

Dr. Shelton Mackenzie, already favorably known as editor of Sheil'h " Sketches of 
the Irish Bar," has undertaken the editorship of The Noctes Ambrosianje, for which a 
familiar acquaintance, during the last twenty-five years, with the persons, events, and 
places therein noticed may be assumed to qualify him. He has been on terms of intimacy 
with most of the eminent political and literary characters treated of in the "Noctes," 
and his annotation of the text will include personal recollections of them. 

Besides this, Dr. Mackenzie has written for this edition a ''History of the Rise and Pro- 
gress of Blackwood's Magazine," with original memoirs of the principal accredited authors 
of the "Noctes," viz :— Professor Wilson, The Ettrick Shepherd, J. G. Lockhart, and 
Dr. Maginn. 

He will also give the celebrated " Chaldee Manuscript," published in 1817, instantly 
suppressed, and so scarce that the only copy which the editor has ever seen is that from 
which he makes the present reprint. There will also be given the three articles, entitled 
" Christopher in the Tent," (in August and September, 1819), never before printed, in 
any shape, in this country. The interlocutors in '' The Tent," include the greater number 
of those afterwards introduced in the " Noctes." 

The " Metricum Symphosium Ambrosianum," — an addendum to No. III. of " The 
Noctes," (and which notices every living author of note, in the year 1822), will be in- 
corporated in this edition. This has never before been reprinted here. 



Nearly Ready, in Two Volumes. 

THE ODOHERTY PAPERS, 

forming the first portion of the miscellaneous writings of the late 

DR. MAGINN. 

WITH AN ORIGINAL MEMOIR AND COPIOUS NOTES, BT 

DR. SHELTON MACKENZIE. 



For more than a quarter of a century, the most remarkable magazine writer of his 
time, was the late William Maginn, LL.D., well-known as the Sir Morgan Odoherty of 
Blackwood" 1 s Magazine, and as the principal contributor, for many years, to FraserH 
and other periodicals. The combined learning, wit, eloquence, eccentricity, and humor 
of Maginn, had obtained for him, long before his death, (in 1843), the title of The 
Modern Rabelais, His magazine articles possess extraordinary merit. He had the 
art of putting a vast quantity of animal spirits upon paper, but his graver articles— which 
contain sound and serious principles of criticism — are earnest and well-reasoned. 

The collection now in hand will contain his Facetiae (in a variety of languages), Trans- 
lations, Travesties, and Original Poetry, also his prose Tales, which are eminently beauti- 
ful, the best of his critical articles, (including his celebrated Shakspeare Papers), and 
his Homeric Ballads. The periodicals in which he wrote have been ransacked, from 
" Blackwood" to " Punch," and the result will be a series of great interest. 

Dr. Shelton Mackenzie, who has undertaken the editorship of these writings of his 
distinguished countryman, will spare neither labor nor attention in the work. The 
first volume will contain an original Memoir of Dr. Maginn, written by Dr. Mackenzie, 
and a characteristic Portrait, with fac-simile. 

Published by J, S. REDFIELD, 
110 & 112 Nassau- street, New York. 



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